Add Wood Grain Texture To 3D Prints – With A Model Of A Log

June 3, 2025 by Donald Papp 34 Comments

Adding textures is a great way to experiment with giving 3D prints a different look, and [PandaN] shows off a method of adding a wood grain effect in a way that’s easy to play around with. It involves using a 3D model of a log (complete with concentric tree rings) as a print modifier. The good news is that [PandaN] has already done the work of creating one, as well as showing how to use it.

The model of the stump — complete with concentric tree rings — acts as a modifier for the much-smaller printed object (in this case, a small plate).

In the slicer software one simply uses the log as a modifier for an object to be printed. When a 3D model is used as a modifier in this way, it means different print settings get applied everywhere the object to be printed and the modifier intersect one another.

In the case of this project, the modifier shifts the angle of the fill pattern wherever the models intersect. A fuzzy skin modifier is used as well, and the result is enough to give a wood grain appearance to the printed object. When printed with a wood filament (which is PLA mixed with wood particles), the result looks especially good.

We’ve seen a few different ways to add textures to 3D prints, including using Blender to modify model surfaces. Textures can enhance the look of a model, and are also a good way to hide layer lines.

In addition to the 3D models, [PandaN] provides a ready-to-go project for Bambu slicer with all the necessary settings already configured, so experimenting can be as simple as swapping the object to be printed with a new 3D model. Want to see that in action? Here’s a separate video demonstrating exactly that step-by-step, embedded below.

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This BB Shooter Has A Spring, But Not For What You Think

June 2, 2025 by Donald Papp 24 Comments

[It’s on my MIND] designed a clever BB blaster featuring a four-bar linkage that prints in a single piece and requires no additional hardware. The interesting part is how it turns a trigger pull into launching a 6 mm plastic BB. There is a spring, but it only acts as a trigger return and plays no part in launching the projectile. So how does it work?

There’s a spring in this BB launcher, but it’s not used like you might expect.

The usual way something like this functions is with the trigger pulling back a striker of some kind, and putting it under tension in the process (usually with the help of a spring) then releasing it. As the striker flies forward, it smacks into a BB and launches it. We’ve seen print-in-place shooters that work this way, but that is not what is happening here.

With [It’s on my MIND]’s BB launcher, the trigger is a four-bar linkage that transforms a rearward pull of the trigger into a forward push of the striker against a BB that is gravity fed from a hopper. The tension comes from the BB’s forward motion being arrested by a physical detent as the striker pushes from behind. Once that tension passes a threshold, the BB pops past the detent and goes flying. Thanks to the mechanical advantage of the four-bar linkage, the trigger finger doesn’t need to do much work. The spring? It’s just there to reset the trigger by pushing it forward again after firing.

It’s a clever design that doesn’t require any additional hardware, and even prints in a single piece. Watch it in action in the video, embedded just below.

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3D Print ABS Without A Screaming Hot Bed

May 29, 2025 by Donald Papp 15 Comments

ABS is a durable material that can be 3D printed, but requires a 100° C build surface. The print bed of [Pat]’s Bambu Lab A1 Mini is unable to get that hot, which means he can not print ABS…or can he? By fiddling a few settings, he prints ABS no problem with only a 60° C bed, thanks to a PLA interface layer.

Here’s what’s going on: first [Pat] prints a single layer of PLA, then does a filament swap for ABS (which the printer thinks is PETG with extrusion temperature bumped to 255° C and a tweaked flow rate) and lets the print finish. The end result is an ABS part with a single layer of PLA at the bottom, all printed on a 60° C bed. That PLA layer peels off easily, leaving a nice finish behind.

[Pat] is printing small parts in ABS for a custom skeletal mouse shell (pictured above) and his results are fantastic. We’re curious how this technique would fare with larger ABS objects, which tend to have more issues with warping and shrinkage. But it seems that at least for small parts, it’s a reliable and clever way to go.

We originally saw how [JanTec Engineering] used this technique to get less warping with ABS. As for why PLA is the way to go for the interface layer, we’ve learned that PLA only really truly sticks to PLA, making it a great interface or support for other filaments in general. (PETG on the other hand wants to stick to everything but PLA.)

Tool Turns SVGs Into Multicolor 3D Prints

May 28, 2025 by Donald Papp 3 Comments

Want to turn a scaled vector graphic into a multicolor 3D print, like a sign? You’ll want to check out [erkannt]’s svg2solid, a web-based tool that reads an SVG and breaks the shapes up by color into individual STL files. Drag those into your slicer (treating them as a single object with multiple parts) and you’re off to the races.

This sign was printed face-down on a textured build plate. The colors only need to be a few layers deep.

This is especially handy for making 3D printed versions of things like signs, and shown here is an example of exactly that.

It’s true that most 3D printer software supports the .svg format natively nowadays, but that doesn’t mean a tool like this is obsolete. SVG is a 2D format with no depth information, so upon import the slicer assigns a arbitrary height to all imported elements and the user must make any desired adjustments manually. For example, a handy tip for making signs is to make the “background” as thick as desired but limit colored elements to just a few layers deep. Doing so minimizes filament switching while having no impact on final visual appearance.

Being able to drag SVGs directly into the slicer is very handy, but working with 3D models has a certain “what you see is what you get” element to it that can make experimentation or alternate applications a little easier. Since svg2solid turns an SVG into discrete 3D models (separated by color) and each with user-defined heights, if you find yourself needing that then this straightforward tool is worth having in your bookmarks. Or just go straight to the GitHub repository and grab your own copy.

On the other hand, if you prefer your 3D-printed signs to be lit up in a faux-neon style then here’s how to do that in no time at all. Maybe there’s a way to mix the two approaches? If you do, be sure to use our tips line to let us know!

3D Printing Uranium-Carbide Structures For Nuclear Applications

May 19, 2025 by Maya Posch 11 Comments

Fabrication of uranium-based components via DLP. (Zanini et al., Advanced Functional Materials, 2024)

Within the nuclear sciences, including fuel production and nuclear medicine (radiopharmaceuticals), often specific isotopes have to be produced as efficiently as possible, or allow for the formation of (gaseous) fission products and improved cooling without compromising the fuel. Here having the target material possess an optimized 3D shape to increase surface area and safely expel gases during nuclear fission can be hugely beneficial, but producing these shapes in an efficient way is complicated. Here using photopolymer-based stereolithography (SLA) as recently demonstrated by [Alice Zanini] et al. with a research article in Advanced Functional Materials provides an interesting new method to accomplish these goals.

In what is essentially the same as what a hobbyist resin-based SLA printer does, the photopolymer here is composed of uranyl ions as the photoactive component along with carbon precursors, creating solid uranium dicarbide (UC₂) structures upon exposure to UV light with subsequent sintering. Uranium-carbide is one of the alternatives being considered for today’s uranium ceramic fuels in fission reactors, with this method possibly providing a reasonable manufacturing method.

Uranium carbide is also used as one of the target materials in ISOL (isotope separation on-line) facilities like CERN’s ISOLDE, where having precise control over the molecular structure of the target could optimize isotope production. Ideally equivalent photocatalysts to uranyl can be found to create other optimized targets made of other isotopes as well, but as a demonstration of how SLA (DLP or otherwise) stands to transform the nuclear sciences and industries.

Learn 15 Print-in-Place Mechanisms In 15 Minutes

May 11, 2025 by Dave Rowntree 4 Comments

3D printed in-place mechanisms and flexures, such as living hinges, are really neat when you can get them to print correctly. But how do you actually do that? YouTuber [Slant 3D] is here with a helpful video demonstrating the different kinds of springs and hinges (Video, embedded below) that can be printed reliably, and discusses some common pitfalls and areas to concentrate upon.

Living hinges are everywhere and have been used at least as long as humans have been around. The principle is simple enough; join two sections to move with a thinned section of material that, in small sections, is flexible enough to distort a few times without breaking off. The key section is “a few times”, as all materials will eventually fail due to overworking. However, if this thing is just a cheap plastic case around a low-cost product, that may not be a huge concern. The video shows a few ways to extend flexibility, such as spreading the bending load across multiple flexure elements to reduce the wear of individual parts, but that comes at the cost of compactness.

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DIY Driving Simulator Pedals

May 8, 2025 by Matthew Carlson 8 Comments

In the driving simulator community, setups can quickly grow ever more complicated and expensive, all in the quest for fidelity. For [CNCDan], rather than buy pedals off the shelf, he opted to build his own.

[Dan] has been using some commercial pedals alongside his own DIY steering wheel and the experience is rather lackluster in comparison. The build starts with some custom brackets. To save on cost, they are flat with tabs to let you know where to bend it in a vise. Additionally, rather than three sets of unique brackets, [Dan] made them all the same to save on cost. The clutch and throttle are a simple hall effect sensor with a spring to provide feedback. However, each bracket provides a set of spring mounting holes to adjust the curve. Change up the angle of the spring and you have a different curve. The brake pedal is different as rather than measure position, it measures force. A load cell is perfect for this. The HX711 load cell sensor board that [Dan] bought was only polling at 10hz. Lifting a pin from ground and bodging it to VDD puts the chip in 80hz, which is much more usable for a driving sim setup.

[Dan] also cleverly uses a 3d printed bushing without any walls as resistance for the pedal. Since the bushing is just the infill, the bushing stiffness is controlled by the infill percentage. Aluminum extrusion forms the base so [Dan] can adjust the exact pedal positions. To finish it off, a bog standard Arduino communicates to the PC as a game controller.

The project is on GitHub. Perhaps the next version will have active feedback, like this DIY pedal setup.

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