FDM

46 Articles

Non-planar 3d-print on bed

Improved And Open Source: Non-Planar Infill For FDM

April 23, 2025 by 16 Comments

Strenghtening FDM prints has been discussed in detail over the last years. Solutions and results vary as each one’s desires differ. Now [TenTech] shares his latest improvements on his post-processing script that he first created around January. This script literally bends your G-code to its will – using non-planar, interlocking sine wave deformations in both infill and walls. It’s now open-source, and plugs right into your slicer of choice: PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, or Bambu Studio. If you’re into pushing your print strength past the limits of layer adhesion, but his former solution wasn’t quite the fit for your printer, try this improvement.

Traditional Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) prints break along layer lines. What makes this script exciting is that it lets you introduce alternating sine wave paths between wall loops, removing clean break points and encouraging interlayer grip. Think of it as organic layer interlocking – without switching to resin or fiber reinforcement. You can tweak amplitude, frequency, and direction per feature. In fact, the deformation even fades between solid layers, allowing smoother transitions. Structural tinkering at its finest, not just a cosmetic gimmick.

This thing comes without needing a custom slicer. No firmware mods. Just Python, a little G-code, and a lot of curious minds. [TenTech] is still looking for real-world strength tests, so if you’ve got a test rig and some engineering curiosity, this is your call to arms.

The script can be found in his Github. View his full video here , get the script and let us know your mileage!

Continue reading “Improved And Open Source: Non-Planar Infill For FDM” →

Make Fancy Resin Printer 3D Models FDM-Friendly

March 19, 2025 by 17 Comments

Do you like high-detail 3D models intended for resin printing, but wish you could more easily print them on a filament-based FDM printer? Good news, because [Jacob] of Painted4Combat shared a tool he created to make 3D models meant for resin printers — the kind popular with tabletop gamers — easier to port to FDM. It comes in the form of a Blender add-on called Resin2FDM. Intrigued, but wary of your own lack of experience with Blender? No problem, because he also made a video that walks you through the whole thing step-by-step.

Resin2FDM separates the model from the support structure, then converts the support structure to be FDM-friendly.

3D models intended for resin printing aren’t actually any different, format-wise, from models intended for FDM printers. The differences all come down to the features of the model and how well the printer can execute them. Resin printing is very different from FDM, so printing a model on the “wrong” type of printer will often have disappointing results. Let’s look at why that is, to better understand what makes [Jacob]’s tool so useful.

Rafts and a forest of thin tree-like supports are common in resin printing. In the tabletop gaming scene, many models come pre-supported for convenience. A fair bit of work goes into optimizing the orientation of everything for best printed results, but the benefits don’t carry directly over to FDM.

For one thing, supports for resin prints are usually too small for an FDM printer to properly execute — they tend to be very thin and very tall, which is probably the least favorable shape for FDM printing. In addition, contact points where each support tapers down to a small point that connects to the model are especially troublesome; FDM slicer software will often simply consider those features too small to bother trying to print. Supports that work on a resin printer tend to be too small or too weak to be effective on FDM, even with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

To solve this, [Jacob]’s tool allows one to separate the model itself from the support structure. Once that is done, the tool further allows one to tweak the nest of supports, thickening them up just enough to successfully print on an FDM printer, while leaving the main model unchanged. The result is a support structure that prints well via FDM, allowing the model itself to come out nicely, with a minimum of alterations to the original.

Resin2FDM is available in two versions, the Lite version is free and an advanced version with more features is available to [Jacob]’s Patreon subscribers. The video (embedded below) covers everything from installation to use, and includes some general tips for best results. Check it out if you’re interested in how [Jacob] solved this problem, and keep it in mind for the next time you run across a pre-supported model intended for resin printing that you wish you could print with FDM.

Continue reading “Make Fancy Resin Printer 3D Models FDM-Friendly” →

Using Microwave Heating To Locally Anneal CNT-Coated FDM Prints

February 1, 2025 by 19 Comments
The CNT coating between the layers is heated with microwaves to locally anneal. (Credit: Sweeney et al., Science Adv., 2017)

Layer adhesion is one of the weak points with FDM 3D printing, with annealing often recommended as a post-processing step. An interestingly creative method for this was published in Science Advances back in 2017, featuring the work of researchers at Texas A&M University and citing previous work by other teams. In the paper by [Charles B. Sweeney] et al, they describe how they coated PLA filament with carbon nanotubes (CNTs), resulting in this CNT being distributed primarily between the individual layers of polymer.

This is useful because CNTs are quite sensitive to microwave radiation, resulting in the conversion to thermal energy, i.e. heat. Compared to traditional annealing where the entire part is placed into an oven or similar, this microwave-based heating – or locally induced RF (LIRF) as they call this method – localizes the heat to the interface between two layers.

The advantages of this approach are that it doesn’t change the dimensions of the part noticeably, it’s faster and more efficient, and the annealing between layers approaches the strength of traditional manufacturing. Unfortunately not too much seems to have happened with this approach since then, but considering that both CNTs (single & double-walled) and microwaves are readily available, there’s not much standing in the way of replicating these results.

Sheet Metal Forming With 3D Printed Dies

January 9, 2025 by 16 Comments

Sheet metal is very easy to form, including the pressing in of intricate shapes with dies and a hydraulic press, but the dies themselves are slightly harder to come by. What if we could 3D print custom dies to stamp logos and more into sheet metal? This is the premise of a recent video by the Stick Shift Garage channel on YouTube in which dies are printed in PLA+ (solid infill) and used to stamp 1 and 2 mm thick sheet metal with the channel’s logo.

As can be observed in the video, the results aren’t bad at all after a couple of tweaks and adjustments to the pressure, but of course there is room for improvement. Some helpful commentators suggest improving the dies with properly rounded edges on the die’s shape and paying attention to K-factors and kin so as not to overstress or tear the sheet metal. In terms of die longevity, the PLA+ dies began to wear out after about a dozen tries but not the point of failure. Here other filament types might work even better, maybe even to the point of competing with a CNCed metal die.

Considering that this was a first attempt without a lot of pre-existing knowledge it went pretty well, and a future video was promised in which improvements will be shown off.

Continue reading “Sheet Metal Forming With 3D Printed Dies” →

New Tullomer Filament Claims To Beat PEEK

December 8, 2024 by 37 Comments

Recently a company called Z-Polymers introduced its new Tullomer FDM filament that comes with a lofty bullet list of purported properties that should give materials like steel, aluminium, and various polymers a run for their money. Even better is that it is compatible with far lower specification FDM printers than e.g. PEEK. Intrigued, the folks over at All3DP figured that they should get some hands-on information on this filament and what’s it like to print with in one of the officially sanctioned Bambu Lab printers: these being the X1C & X1CE with manufacturer-provided profiles.

The world of engineering-grade FDM filaments has existed for decades, with for example PEEK (polyether ether ketone) having been around since the early 1980s, but these require much higher temperatures for the extruder (360+℃) and chamber (~90℃) than Tullomer, which is much closer (300℃, 50℃) to a typical high-performance filament like ABS, while also omitting the typical post-process annealing of PEEK. This assumes that Tullomer can match those claimed specifications, of course.

One of the current users of Tullomer is Erdos Miller, an engineering firm with a focus on the gas and oil industry. They’re using it for printing parts (calibration tooling) that used to be printed in filaments like carbon fiber-reinforced nylon (CF-PA) or PEEK, but they’re now looking at using Tullomer for replacing CF-PA and machined PEEK parts elsewhere too.

It’s still early days for this new polymer, of course, and we don’t have a lot of information beyond the rather sparse datasheet, but if you already have a capable printer, a single 1 kg spool of Tullomer is a mere $500, which is often much less or about the same as PEEK spools, without the requirement for a rather beefy industrial-strength FDM printer.

Excerpt from 1995 Stratasys patent, showing the drawings of FDM layers, including brick layers.

Brick Layers: The Promise Of Stronger 3D Prints And Why We Cannot Have Nice Things

November 9, 2024 by 87 Comments

It is a fact of life that 3D printed parts from an FDM (fused deposition modeling) printer have weaknesses where the layers join. Some of this is due to voids and imperfect layer bonding, but you can — as [Geek Detour] shows us — work around some of this. In particular, it is possible to borrow techniques from brick laying to create a pattern of alternating blocks. You can check out the video below.

The idea of ‘brick layers’ with FDM prints was brought to the forefront earlier this year by [Stefan] of CNC Kitchen. Seven months after that video you still can’t find the option for these layers in any popular slicers. Why? Because of a 2020 patent filed for this technique by a 3D printing company which offers this feature in its own slicer. But is this patent even valid?

It’s no surprise that prior art already exists in the form of a 1995 Stratasys patent. The above image shows an excerpt from the 1995 Stratasys patent, covering the drawings of FDM layers, including brick layers. This covered all such ways of printing, but the patent expired in 2016. In 2019, a PrusaSlicer ticket was opened, requesting this feature. So what happened? A second patent filed in 2020 assigned to Addman Intermediate Holdings: US11331848B2.

Continue reading “Brick Layers: The Promise Of Stronger 3D Prints And Why We Cannot Have Nice Things” →

What Actually Causes Warping In 3D Prints?

October 14, 2024 by 35 Comments

The 3D printing process is cool, but it’s also really annoying at times. Specifically, when you want to get a part printed, and no matter how you orientate things, what adhesion aids you use or what slicer settings you tweak, it just won’t print right. [David Malawey] has been thinking a little about the problem of the edges of wide prints tending to curl upwards, and we believe they may be on to something.

Obviously, we’re talking about the lowest common denominator of 3D printing, FDM, here. Other 3D printing technologies have their gotchas. Anyway, when printing a wide object, edge curling or warping is a known annoyance. Many people will just try it and hope for the best. When a print’s extreme ends start peeling away from the heat bed, causing the print to collide with the head, they often get ripped off the bed and unceremoniously ejected onto the carpet. Our first thought will be, “Oh, bed adhesion again”, followed by checking the usual suspects: bed temperature, cleanliness and surface preparation. Next, we might add a brim or some sacrificial ‘bunny ears’ to keep those pesky edges nailed down. Sometimes this works, but sometimes not. It can be frustrating. [David] explains in the YouTube short how the contraction of each layer of materials is compounded by its length, and these stresses accumulate as the print layers build. A simple demonstration shows how a stack of stressed sections will want to curl at the ends and roll up inwards.

This mechanism would certainly go some way to explain the way these long prints behave and why our mitigation attempts are sometimes in vain. The long and short of it is to fix the issue at the design stage, to minimize those contraction forces, and reduce the likelihood of edge curling.

Does this sound familiar? We thought we remembered this, too, from years ago. Anyway, the demonstration was good and highlighted the issue well.

Continue reading “What Actually Causes Warping In 3D Prints?” →