Lathe And Laser Team Up To Make Cutting Gear Teeth Easier

Fair warning: watching this hybrid manufacturing method for gear teeth may result in an uncontrollable urge to buy a fiber laser cutter. Hackaday isn’t responsible for any financial difficulties that may result.

With that out of the way, this is an interesting look into how traditional machining and desktop manufacturing methods can combine to make parts easier than either method alone. The part that [Paul] is trying to make is called a Hirth coupling, a term that you might not be familiar with (we weren’t) but you’ve likely seen and used. They’re essentially flat surfaces with gear teeth cut into them allowing the two halves of the coupling to nest together and lock firmly in a variety of relative radial positions. They’re commonly used on camera gear like tripods for adjustable control handles and tilt heads, in which case they’re called rosettes.

To make his rosettes, [Paul] started with a block of aluminum on the lathe, where the basic cylindrical shape of the coupling was created. At this point, forming the teeth in the face of each coupling half with traditional machining methods would have been tricky, either using a dividing head on a milling machine or letting a CNC mill have at it. Instead, he fixtured each half of the coupling to the bed of his 100 W fiber laser cutter to cut the teeth. The resulting teeth would probably not be suitable for power transmission; the surface finish was a bit rough, and the tooth gullet was a little too rounded. But for a rosette, this was perfectly acceptable, and probably a lot faster to produce than the alternative.

In case you’re curious as to what [Paul] needs these joints for, it’s a tablet stand for his exercise machine. Sound familiar? That’s because we recently covered his attempts to beef up 3D prints with a metal endoskeleton for the same project.

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3D Printed Air Raid Siren Sounds Just Like The Real Thing

Air raid sirens have an important job to do, and have been a critical piece of public safety infrastructure in times of geopolitical turmoil. They sound quite unlike anything else, by virtue of their mechanical method of generating an extremely loud sound output. They’re actually remarkably simple to build yourself, as [MarkMakies] demonstrates.

[Mark’s] build relies almost entirely on 3D printed components and ex-RC gear. The sound itself is generated by a rotor which spins inside a stator. Each is designed with special slots, such that as the rotor turns at speed, it creates spikes of air pressure that generate a loud wail. The rotor and stator are fitted inside a housing with a horn for output, which helps direct and amplify the sound further.

To spin the rotor, [Mark] used a powerful brushless motor controlled by a common hobby speed controller. The actual speed is determined by a potentiometer, which generates pulses to command the speed controller via a simple 555 circuit. By ramping the speed of the motor up and down, it’s possible to vary the pitch of the siren as is often done with real air raid sirens. This action could be entirely automated if so desired.

If you do decide to build such a siren, just be wary about how you use it. There’s no need to go around agitating the townsfolk absent an actual air raid. It’s worth noting that sirens of this type aren’t just used for air raids, either. They’re often used for tornado warnings, too, such as in Dallas, for example. But why not for music?

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Understanding The Miller Effect

As electronics rely more and more on ICs, subtle details about discrete components get lost because we spend less time designing with them. For example, a relay seems like a simple component, but selecting the contact material optimally has a lot of nuance that people often forget. Another case of this is the Miller effect, explained in a recent video by the aptly named [Old Hack EE].

Put simply, the Miller effect — found in 1919 by [John Milton Miller] — is the change in input impedance of an inverting amplifier due to the gain’s effect on the parasitic capacitance between the amplifier’s input and output terminals. The parasitic capacitance acts like there is an additional capacitor in parallel with the parasitic capacitance that is equivalent to the parasitic capacitance multiplied by the gain. Since capacitors in parallel add, the equation for the Miller capacitance is C-AC where C is the parasitic capacitance, and A is the voltage gain which is always negative, so you might prefer to think of this as C+|A|C.

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Cute Face Tells You How Bad The Air Quality Is

You can use all kinds of numbers and rating systems to determine whether the air quality in a given room is good, bad, or somewhere in between. Or, like [Makestreme], you could go for a more human visual interface. He’s built a air quality monitor that conveys its information via facial expressions on a small screen.

Named Gus, the monitor is based around a Xiao ESP32-C3. It’s hooked up with the SeeedStudio Grove air quality sensor, which can pick up everything from carbon monoxide to a range of vaguely toxic and volatile gases. There’s also a THT22 sensor for measuring temperature and humidity. It’s all wrapped up in a cute 3D-printed robot housing that [Makestreme] created in Fusion 360. A small OLED display serves as Gus’s face.

The indications of poor air quality are simple and intuitive. As “Gus” detects poor air, his eyelids droop and he begins to look more gloomy. Of course, that doesn’t necessarily tell you what you should do to fix the air quality. If your issue is pollution from outside, you’ll probably want to shut windows or turn on an air purifier. On the other hand, if your issue is excess CO2, you’ll want to open a window and let fresh air in. It’s a limitation of this project that it can’t really detect particulates or CO2, but instead is limited to CO and volatiles instead. Still, it’s something that could be worked around with richer sensors a more expressive face. Some will simply prefer hard numbers, though, whatever the case. To that end, you can tap Gus’s head to get more direct information from what the sensors are seeing.

We’ve seen some other great air quality projects before, too, with remarkably similar ideas behind them. Video after the break.

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What The Well-Dressed Radio Hacker Is Wearing This Season

We’ve seen a lot of interest in Meshtastic, the license-free mesh network for small amounts of data over the airwaves. [Ham Radio Rookie] was disappointed with his Meshtastic node’s small and inefficient antennas. So he decided to make what we suspect is the world’s first Meshtastic necktie.

We assume the power is low enough that having it across your thorax is probably not terrible. Probably. The tie is a product of a Cricut, Faraday cloth, and tiny hardware (the Xiao ESP32S3 and the WIO SX1262 board). The biggest problem was the RF connector, which needed something smaller than the normal BNC connector.

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The Nokia 3310 Finally Gets A USB-C Upgrade

The Nokia 3310 has a reputation of being one of the most indestructible devices ever crafted by humanity. It’s also woefully out of date and only usable in a handful of countries that still maintain a GSM network. It might not be easy to bring it into the 5G era, but you can at least convert it to work with modern chargers, thanks to [Andrea].

[SGCDerek] whipped up their own solution for USB-C charging.
If you don’t want to buy the parts, you can just DIY the same mod. [SGCDerek] did just that a few years ago. From what it looks like, you likely don’t even need to worry about doing any fancy charger handshaking. The 3310 will happily grab a charge from a low-current 5V supply straight off the USB pins.

You might think this is a messy, complicated mod, but [Andrea] engineered it as a drop-in upgrade. He’s combined a USB-C port with a small plastic adapter that enables it to sit in place of the original phone’s charge port module.  Contact between the port and the rest of the phone is via spring-loaded contacts. The only additional step necessary is popping out the mic from the original charge module and putting it in the new one. You need only a screw driver to disassemble the phone, swap out the parts, and put it all back together.

If you want to upgrade your own handset, [Andrea] is more than happy to provide the parts for a reasonable price of 25 euros. It’s almost worth it just for the laughs—head around to your friend’s house, ask to borrow a charger, and then plug in your USB-C 3310. You’ll blow some minds.

Once upon a time, it was big news that someone hacked a USB-C port into the iPhone. Video after the break.

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A 3D Printed Camera You Can Now Download, Shutter And All

A couple of years ago we were excited to read news of an entirely 3D printed camera, right down to the shutter. We wrote it up back then but sadly the required STL files were not yet available. Now after time away with his family, its creator [Mark Hiltz] is back. The medium-format Pioneer Camera can now be downloaded for printing in its entirety under a Creative Commons licence.

Looking at the design, it appears to be a relatively straightforward build. The shutter is extremely simple, as far as we can see, relying on magnets to ensure that the open part of its rotation is at an unstable repulsing point between stable magnetic poles. The images aren’t perfect because he’s using a very simple lens, but this is part of the charm of a camera like this one. We hope that people will take it and produce refinements to the design making for a cheap and good entry to medium format photography.

While you’re printing your own Pioneer, take a look at our original coverage.