3D Printing A New Kind Of Skateboard That Is Ultimately Unsafe

Skateboards were organically developed in the 1940s and 1950s; 30 years would then pass before the ollie was developed, unlocking new realms for skaters dedicated to the artform. The advent of powerful batteries and motors would later make the electric skateboard a practical and (un?)fashionable method of transport in more recent years. Now, [Ivan Miranda] is pushing the cutting edge of skateboarding even further, with an entirely weird build of his own design.

The build was inspired by one-wheels, which [Ivan] considers fun but ultimately too dangerous. Most specifically, he fears crashing when the one-wheel is tilted beyond a critical angle at which the motor can restore it to a level  heading. His concept was to thus create a two-wheeled board that is nonetheless controlled with the leaning interface of a one-wheel.

The frame is assembled from a combination of 3D-printed brackets and aluminium extrusion. The rider stands on a platform which rides on rollers on top of the frame, tilting it to control the drive direction of the board. Detecting the angle is handled by an Arduino Due with an MPU6050 IMU onboard. The microcontroller is then responsible for commanding the speed controller to move the board. Drive is from a brushless DC motor, hooked up to one of the wheels via a toothed belt. Power is courtesy of three power tool batteries.

Early testing showed the design to be a bit of a death trap. However, with refinement to the control system code and an improved battery setup, it became slightly more graceful to ride. [Ivan] notes that more tuning and refinement is needed to make the thing safer than a one-wheel, which was the original goal. We’ve seen some other great builds from [Ivan] before, too. Video after the break.

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3D Printing A Cheap VR Headset

The modern era of virtual reality really kicked off in earnest just over a decade ago, when the Oculus Rift promised 3D worlds beyond your wildest dreams. Since then, nobody’s been able to come up with a killer app to convince even a mild fraction of consumers to engage with the technology. Still, if you’re keen to tinker, you might like to make your own headset like [CNCDan] has done.

The build is based almost entirely on 3D-printed components and parts sourced from AliExpress. It offers 2880x1440p resolution, thanks to a pair of square 1440×1440 LCD displays, one for each eye, paired with a couple of 34 mm lenses. The headset has adjustable interpupiliary distance so you can dial the view in to properly suit your eyes. The 3D-printed housing is designed to be compatible with headrest pads from the HTC Vive Pro for comfort’s sake. Head tracking is also available, with the inclusion of an IMU and an Arduino onboard. [CNCDan] apparently put the build together for under $150, which is not bad compared to the price of a commercial off-the-shelf unit. Files are on Github for the curious.

[CNCDan] reports good results with the DIY headset, using it primarily with his racing simulator setup. He has had some issues, however, with his LCD screens, which don’t properly run at a 90 Hz refresh rate at full resolution, which is frustrating. It’s an issue he’s still looking into. We’ve seen some other neat VR builds over the years, too. Video after the break.

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3D Print Smoothing, With Lasers

As anyone who has used an FDM printer can tell you, it’s certainly not the magical replicator it’s often made out to be. The limitations of the platform are numerous — ranging from anisotropic material characteristics to visual imperfections in the parts. In an attempt to reduce the visual artifacts in 3D prints, [TenTech] affixed a small diode laser on a 3D printer.

Getting the 1.5 watt diode laser onto the printer was a simple matter of a bracket and attaching it to the control board as a fan. Tuning the actual application of the laser proved a little more challenging. While the layer lines did get smoothed, it also discolored the pink filament making the results somewhat unusable. Darker colored filaments seem to not have this issue and a dark blue is used for the rest of the video.

A half smoothed half unprocessed test printThe smoothing process begins at the end of a 3D print and uses non-planar printer movements to keep the laser at an ideal focusing distance. The results proved rather effective, giving a noticeably smoother and shiner quality than an unprocessed print. The smoothing works incredibly well on fine geometry which would be difficult or impossible to smooth out via traditional mechanical means. Some detail was lost with sharp corners getting rounded, but not nearly as much as [TenTech] feared.

For a final test, [TenTech] made two candle molds, one smoothed and one processed. The quality difference between the two resulting candles was minimal, with the smoothed one being perhaps even a little worse. However, a large amount of wax leaked into the 3D print infill in the unprocessed mold, with the processed mold showing no signs of leaking.

If you are looking for a bit safer of a 3D print post-processing technique, make sure to check out [Donal Papp]’s UV resin smoothing experiments!

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Improved 3D Printer Cannibalizes Two Older Printers

In the late 2010s, the Ender 3 printers were arguably the most popular line of 3D printers worldwide, and for good reason. They combined simplicity and reliability in a package that was much less expensive than competitors, giving a much wider range of people access to their first printers. Of course there are much better printers on the market today, leaving many of these printers sitting unused. [Irbis3D] had an idea that with so many of these obsolete, inexpensive printers on the secondhand market, he could build something better with their parts.

The printer he eventually pieces together takes parts from two donor Ender printers and creates a printer with a CoreXY design instead of the bedslinger (Cartesian) design of the originals. CoreXY has an advantage over other printer topologies in that the print head moves in X and Y directions, allowing for much faster print times at the expense of increased complexity. There are some challenges to the design that [Irbis3D] had to contend with, such as heating problems with the extruder head that needed some modifications, as well as a resonance problem common with many printer designs which can generally be solved by replacing parts one-by-one until satisfactory prints are achieved.

Of course, not all of the parts for the new printer come from the old Ender printers. The longer belts driving the print head needed to be ordered, as well as a few other miscellaneous bits. But almost everything else is taken from these printers, which can be found fairly cheaply on the secondhand market nowadays. In theory it’s possible to build this version for much less cost than an equivalent printer as a result. If you’re looking for something even more complicated to build, we’d recommend this delta printer with a built-in tool changer.

Thanks to [BusterCasey] for the tip!

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Blocky tread, yellow hub-- yep, it looks like LEGO

10″ LEGO Tyre Is Practical Nostalgia

If there’s one thing that has come to define the generations after the baby boom, it’s probably nostalgia. It’s heavily marketed and weaponized by the market: yearning for better, simpler times seems to be a core thread of the consumer economy these days. [Makerneer] combined his xilennial love of LEGO bricks with the flat tires on his log splitter to produce a 10″ TPU tyre will never go flat, and provide a dopamine release every time he sees it.

The tyre is a custom model to fit his particular rims, but he does provide STEP and F3D files if you’d like to try modifing it for your own purpose — they’re at Step 6 of the Instructable. Props to [Makerneer] for truly open-sourcing the design instead of just tossing STL files online. His build log also takes the time to point out the ways he had to modify the LEGO tyre profile to make it amenable to 3D printing: notably chamfering some of the tread pattern to eliminate bridging, which is a bit of a no-no with TPU.

As you can see in the (unfortunately vertical) demo video below, it’s a bit quite a bit squishier than a regular run-flat tyre, but that was part of [Makerneer]’s design goal. He didn’t like how rigid the non-pneumatic tyres he’d tried were, so endevoured to design something himself; the whole LEGO thing was just for fun. If you wanted to replicate this tyre with a bit less skoosh, you need only tune the infill on your print.

While only time will tell how long this LEGO-inspired add-on will continue adding whimsy to [Makerneer]’s log-splitting, we have tests to show it will outperform any other plastic he might have printed. This project is probably more practical than a 3D printed bicycle tyre, which doesn’t even have the side benefit of whimsy. Continue reading “10″ LEGO Tyre Is Practical Nostalgia”

Dodecahedron Speaker Is Biblically Accurate

Once upon a time, many radios and TVs only came with a single (mono) speaker. Then someone decided all audio hardware should have as many speakers as we have ears. That was until [Olivia] came along, and whipped up a dodecahedron speaker as an educational piece for workshops. Really, it shows us that twelve speakers should be the minimum standard going forward.

The speaker relies on a 3D-printed frame. The dodecahedron shell is assembled from 12 individual faces, each of which hosts a small individual speaker. Multichannel audio fans shouldn’t get too excited—all twelve speakers are wired to the same input in four groups of three, making this essentially an exceptionally complicated mono device. It might sound silly, but it’s actually a great way to deliver audio in many directions all at once. [Olivia] even went to the effort of running some sweep tests in anechoic and reverberation chambers to see how they performed, which is a fun bit of extra detail in the build log.

[Olivia] notes that these unique speakers are great as a beginner workshop build. They’re easy to modify in various ways to suit different ideas or levels of ability, and they can be made for less than $30 a pop. We’d love to see an advanced version that maybe packed in a lithium battery and a Bluetooth module to make them a standalone audio device. Video after the break.

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Build Your Own 6K Camera

[Curious Scientist] has been working with some image sensors. The latest project around it is a 6K camera. Of course, the sensor gives you a lot of it, but it also requires some off-the-shelf parts and, of course, some 3D printed components.

An off-the-shelf part of a case provides a reliable C mount. There’s also an IR filter in a 3D-printed bracket.

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