Reconditioning A Vintage CRT Tube

Plenty of readers will be familiar with CRT televisions, not least because many of us use them with retrocomputers and consoles. But perhaps fewer will have worked with CRTs themselves as components, and of those, fewer still will be familiar with the earlier generation of tubes. In the first few decades of color TV the tubes were so-called delta gun because their three electron guns were arranged in a triangular form. [Colorvac] has put up a video in which they demonstrate the reconditioning of one of these tubes from a late-1960s Nordmende TV.

The tube in question isn’t one of the earlier “roundies” you would find on an American color TV from the ’50s or early ’60s, instead it’s one of the first generation of rectangular (ish) screens. It’s got an under-performing blue gun, so they’re replacing the electron gun assembly. Cutting the neck of the tube, bonding a new neck extension, and sealing in a new gun assembly is not for the faint-hearted, and it’s clear they have both the specialist machinery and the experience required for the job. Finally we see the reconditioned tube put back into the chassis, and are treated to a demonstration of converging the three beams.

For those of us who cut our teeth on these devices, it’s fascinating.

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Trashed Sound System Lives To Rock Another Day

Plenty of consumer goods, from passenger vehicles to toys to electronics, get tossed out prematurely for all kinds of reasons. Repairable damage, market trends, planned obsolescence, and bad design can all lead to an early sunset on something that might still have some useful life in it. This was certainly the case for a sound system that [Bill] found — despite a set of good speakers, the poor design of the hardware combined with some damage was enough for the owner to toss it. But [Bill] took up the challenge to get it back in working order again.

Inside the DIY control unit.

The main problem with this unit is that of design. It relies on a remote control to turn it on and operate everything, and if that breaks or is lost, the entire unit won’t even power on. Tracing the remote back to the control board reveals a 15-pin connector, and some other audio sleuths online have a few ways of using this port to control the system without the remote.

[Bill] found a few mistakes that needed to be corrected, and was eventually able to get an ESP8266 (and eventually an ESP32) to control the unit thanks largely to the fact that it communicates using a slightly modified I2C protocol.

There were a few pieces of physical damage to correct, too. First, the AC power cable had been cut off which was simple enough to replace, but [Bill] also found that a power connector inside the unit was loose as well. With that taken care of he has a perfectly functional and remarkably inexpensive sound system ready for movies or music. There are some other options available for getting a set of speakers blasting tunes again as well, like building the amplifier for them from scratch from the get-go.

We can see the internal pads from an integrated circuit where the epoxy has been ground away.

When Repairs Go Inside Integrated Circuits

What can you do if your circuit repair diagnosis indicates an open circuit within an integrated circuit (IC)? Your IC got too hot and internal wiring has come loose. You could replace the IC, sure. But what if the IC contains encryption secrets? Then you would be forced to grind back the epoxy and fix those open circuits yourself. That is, if you’re skilled enough!

In this video our hacker [YCS] fixes a Mercedes-Benz encryption chip from an electronic car key. First, the black epoxy surface is polished off, all the way back to the PCB with a very fine gradient. As the gold threads begin to be visible we need to slow down and be very careful.

The repair job is to reconnect the PCB points with the silicon body inside the chip. The PCB joints aren’t as delicate and precious as the silicon body points, those are the riskiest part. If you make a mistake with those then repair will be impossible. Then you tin the pads using solder for the PCB points and pure tin and hot air for the silicon body points.

Once that’s done you can use fine silver wire to join the points. If testing indicates success then you can complete the job with glue to hold the new wiring in place. Everything is easy when you know how!

Does repair work get more dangerous and fiddly than this? Well, sometimes.

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Studying QR Code Degradation

It’s fair to say that QR codes are a technology that has finally come of age. A decade or more ago they were a little over-hyped and sometimes used in inappropriate or pointless ways, but now they are an accepted and useful part of life.

They’re not without their faults though, one of which is that despite four increasingly redundant levels of error correction, there comes a point at which a degraded QR code can no longer be read. [HumanQR] is soliciting these broken QR codes for research purposes and inclusion in an eventual open-source database, and they’ll even have a shot at repairing your submissions for you.

It’s a problem inherent to all digital media, that once the limit of whatever error correction they contain has been reached, they arrive at a cliff-edge at which they go immediately from readability to non readability. The example given in the linked article is a locator tag on a stray cat, it had been rubbed away in part. Improving its contrast, sharply defining its edges, and improving the definition of its fiducials was able to revive it, we hope leading to the cat being returned home.

The idea is that by studying enough damaged codes it should be possible to identify the means by which they become degraded, and perhaps come up with a way to inform some repair software. Meanwhile if you are interested, you might want to learn more about how they work, the hard way.

Inside A Selective Voltmeter

[Martin Lorton] has a vintage Harmon 4200B selective voltmeter that needed repair. He picked it up on eBay, and he knew it wasn’t working, but it was in good condition, especially for the price. He’s posted four videos about what’s inside and how he’s fixing it. You can see the first installment below.

The 4200B is an RMS voltmeter and is selective because it has a tuned circuit to adjust to a particular frequency. The unit uses discrete components and has an analog meter along with an LCD counter.

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Restoring An Abandoned Game Boy Kiosk

Back in the olden days, there existed physical game stores, which in addition to physical games would also have kiosks where you could try out the current game consoles and handhelds. Generally these kiosks held the console, a display and any controllers if needed. After a while these kiosks would get scrapped, with only a very few ending up being rescued and restored. One of the lucky ones is a Game Boy kiosk, which [The Retro Future] managed to snag after it was found in a construction site. Sadly the thing was in a very rough condition, with the particle board especially being mostly destroyed.

Display model Game Boy, safely secured into the demo kiosk. (Credit: The Retro Future, YouTube)
Display model Game Boy, safely secured into the demo kiosk. (Credit: The Retro Future, YouTube)

These Game Boy kiosks also featured a special Game Boy, which – despite being super rare – also was hunted down. This led to the restoration, which included recovering as much of the original particle board as possible, with a professional furniture restore ([Don]) lending his expertise. This provides a master class in how to patch up damaged particle board, as maligned as this wood-dust-and-glue material is.

The boards were then reassembled more securely than the wood screws used by the person who had found the destroyed kiosk, in a way that allows for easy disassembly if needed. Fortunately most of the plastic pieces were still intact, and the Game Boy grey paint was easily matched. Next was reproducing a missing piece of art work, with fortunately existing versions available as reference. For a few missing metal bits that held the special Game Boy in place another kiosk was used to provide measurements.

After all this, the kiosk was powered back on, and it was like 1990 was back once again, just in time for playing Tetris on a dim, green-and-black screen while hunched half into the kiosk at the game store.

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A Tricky Commodore PET Repair And A Lesson About Assumptions

The PET opened, showing the motherboard. (Credit: Ken Shirriff)
The PET opened, showing the motherboard. (Credit: Ken Shirriff)

An unavoidable part of old home computer systems and kin like the Commodore PET is that due to the age of their components they will develop issues that go far beyond what was covered in the official repair manual, not to mention require unconventional repairs. A case in point is the 2001 series Commodore PET that [Ken Shirriff] recently repaired.

The initial diagnosis was quite straightforward: it did turn on, but only displayed random symbols on the CRT, so obviously the ICs weren’t entirely happy, but at least the power supply and the basic display routines seemed to be more or less functional. Surely this meant that only a few bad ICs and maybe a few capacitors had to be replaced, and everything would be fully functional again.

Initially two bad MOS MPS6540 ROM chips had to be replaced with 2716 EPROMs using an adapter, but this did not fix the original symptom. After a logic analyzer session three bad RAM ICs were identified, which mostly fixed the display issue, aside from a quaint 2×2 checkerboard pattern and completely bizarre behavior upon running BASIC programs.

Using the logic analyzer capture the 6502 MPU was identified as writing to the wrong addresses. Ironically, this turned out to be due to a wrong byte in one of the replacement 2716 EPROMs as the used programmer wasn’t quite capable of hitting the right programming voltage. Using a better programmer fixed this, but on the next boot another RAM IC turned out to have failed, upping the total of failed silicon to four RAM & two ROM ICs, as pictured above, and teaching the important lesson to test replacement ROMs before you stick them into a system.