The best-practice wind tunnel (above) vs a compact version (below)

Optimizing A Desktop, 3D Printed Wind Tunnel

January 12, 2026 by Tyler August 2 Comments

You’ve heard of wind tunnels– get some airflow going over a thingy, put some some smoke on, and voila! Flow visualization. How hard could it be? Well, as always, the devil is in the details and [toast] is down in there with him with this Hot-Wheels sized wind tunnel video.

To get good, laminar flow inside of a wind tunnel, there are important ratios to be followed– the inlet and outlet diameters must relate to the interior size to get the correct slope on the contraction and exhaust cones. You need a flow straightener on both ends. All of it can be easily 3D printed, as [toast] shows, but you have to know those design rules and pay attention to, which [toast] does… this time. One of his “don’t do this” examples in this video is previous build of his where he did not follow all the rules, and the difference is clear.

Now, unless you’re hooked on flow visualizations —guilty— or are a Hot-Wheels aficionado, since that’s what this wind tunnel is sized for, you probably won’t rush to gumroad to buy [toast]’s STLs. On the other hand, if you pay attention to the lessons [toast] has learned in this video you can apply them to wind tunnels of whatever size and construction technique you need, be it cardboard or junk box plastic and get a more stable result.

Continue reading “Optimizing A Desktop, 3D Printed Wind Tunnel” →

EnderSpark: Convert Your Broken Creality FDM Printer Into An EDM Machine!

January 11, 2026 by Dave Rowntree 10 Comments

EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) is one of those specialised manufacturing processes that are traditionally expensive and therefore somewhat underrepresented in the DIY and hacker scenes. It’s with great delight that we present EnderSpark, a solution to not one but two problems. The first problem is how to perform CNC operations on hard-to-machine materials such as hardened metals (without breaking the bank). The second problem is what to do with all those broken and forgotten previous-generation Creality Ender 3D printers we know you have stashed away.

To be honest, there isn’t much to a cheap 3D printer, and once you ditch the bed and extruder assembly, you aren’t left with a lot. Anyway, the first job was to add a 51:1 reduction gearbox between the NEMA 17 motors and the drive pullies, giving the much-needed boost to positional accuracy. Next, the X and Y axes were beefed up with a pair of inexpensive MGN12H linear rails to help them cope with the weight of the water bath.

Continue reading “EnderSpark: Convert Your Broken Creality FDM Printer Into An EDM Machine!” →

A man is shown standing in a wooded area, in front of a stone wall, facing toward the camera. To the left of him, on a rock, are a selection of compasses. Further to the left, another scene is shown, of two compasses. One has a brass-colored metal ring around it, and a timer above it reads 00:04:19. A timer above the other reads 01:47:02.

A New Kind Of Inductively-damped Compass

January 11, 2026 by Aaron Beckendorf 40 Comments

At some point during our primary school careers, most of us probably constructed a simple compass, often by floating a magnetized needle on a cork in a cup of water. The water in such a configuration not only lets the needle spin without friction, but also dampens out (so to speak) the needle’s tendency to swing back and forth across the north-south line. Liquid-filled compasses use the same principle, but even well-made compasses can develop bubbles when exposed to temperature or pressure variations. Rather than accept this unsightly state of affairs, [The Map Reading Company] designed a new kind of liquid-free, inductively-damped compass.

It’s hard to design a compass that settles quickly, even if it uses a strong magnet, because the Earth’s own magnetic field is just so weak, and the stronger the internal magnet is, the more likely it is to be thrown off by nearby magnetic objects. As a result, they tend to swing, overshoot, and oscillate around their final orientation for some time. Most compasses use liquid to damp this, but a few, mostly military compasses, use a conductive baseplate instead: as the magnet moves, it induces eddy currents in the baseplate, which create a weak magnetic field opposing its motion, slowing the magnet down. Inductively-damped compasses don’t get bubbles, but they don’t let you see a map through the baseplate. [The Map Reading Company] dealt with this by making the baseplate transparent and surrounding the compass needle with a ring of high-conductivity copper alloy. This gave him a clear baseplate compass for easy map reading which would never develop bubbles. It’s a simple hack, and should be easy to replicate, but it still seems to be a new design. In fact, [The Map Reading Company] is releasing most of the design to the public domain. Anyone can build this design.

If this prompts your interest in compasses, check out the Earth inductor compass. We’ve also seen a visualization of the eddy currents that damp these oscillations, and even seen them used to drive a bike.

Thanks to [Mel] for the tip!

The blower and a smaller motor than what's actually driving it.

Electric Snowblower Clears The Way With Hobby Parts

January 8, 2026 by Tyler August 28 Comments

If you live in snow country and own a home, you either have a snowblower or wish you did. The alternatives are either an expensive and potentially unreliable plow service, or back-breaking (and heart-attack inducing) shoveling. [RCLifeOn] was one of those people in the second category, until he decided to do something about it: electrifying a scrap snowblower with a blown engine.

The usual brushless DC motors and electronic speed controllers [RCLifeOn] has on hand to get his R/C life on with don’t quite have enough oomph to handle both functions of a snowblower. For those of you cursed to live in warmer climes, the modern snowblower is both self-propelled via its twin wheels, and generally has a two-stage powered snow-removal “blower” consisting of an auger to break up the snow and an impeller to blast it out of the machine and many meters off the driveway. On the traditional gas-powered models, these are both powered via belts off the same motor, but that wasn’t going to work.

He kept the belts, and simply used a pair of motors, each with their own ESCs that are controlled via oversized thumb wheels on the handles. The belts couple to the motors with 3D printed pulleys. Belt tension is achieved in the case of the wheels through a simple and sensible shimming arrangement. In the case of the blower motor, he uses a 3D printed adjustable mount to get the appropriate tension. To help it hold long-term (given the issues with creep in 3D prints) he’s got a bearing on a second mount opposite the motor. It holds up for his demo, which consists of clearing a driveway of 10cm of snow and then plowing through a pile larger than the mouth of the machine. In other words: it works.

The build, as unfortunately common on YouTube, is shy on specific details– but in this case that’s fine. Even if he’d open-sourced everything and posted STEP or STL files, it wouldn’t save much time since you’d pretty well have to re-engineer the build to fit your own snowblower, if you were so inclined. As with many hacks of this nature, the point of sharing it is to show how easy it is and provide the inspiration. As the cartoons used to say, “knowing is half the battle.”

If one was to re-implement this hack, we could not encourage you strongly enough to put in the standard dead-man’s switch, a feature commercial snowblowers share with things like lawnmowers. As annoying as it is to hang onto with frozen fingers, that safety feature is there for a reason.

If your driveway is short, you can save on gas and fuel costs with an extension cord. Or you could just stay inside and do the job by remote control, but that comes with its own pitfalls.

Continue reading “Electric Snowblower Clears The Way With Hobby Parts” →

Tired Of Burnt Fingers? Try PID Tuning The Hot Glue Gun

January 6, 2026 by Tyler August 24 Comments

Hot glue guns are pretty simple beasts: there’s an on/off switch, a heating element, and a source of current, be it battery or wired. You turn it on, and the heater starts warming up; eventually you can start extruding the thermoplastic sticks we call “hot glue”. Since there’s no temperature control, the longer you run the gun, the warmer it gets until it is inevitably hotter than you actually want– either burning you or oozing thermoplastic out the tip. [Mellow_Labs] was sick of that after a marathon hot-glue session, and decided to improve on his hot glue gun with PID tuning in the video embedded below.

PID tuning is probably a familiar concept to most of you, particularly those who have 3D printers, where it’s used in exactly the same way [Mellow_Labs] puts it to work in the hot glue gun. By varying the input (in this case the power to the heater) proportional both to the Parameter (in this case, temperature) as well as the Integral and Derivative of that value, you can have a much steadier control than more naive algorithms, like the simple “on/off” thermostat that leads to large temperature swings.

In this case [Mellow_Labs] is implementing the PID control using a thermistor that looks like it came from a 3D printer, and a MOSFET driven by an RP2040. Microcontroller gets its power via the hot glue gun’s battery fed through a buck converter. Since he has them, a small OLED screen displays temperature, which is set with a pair of push-buttons. Thus, one can set a temperature hot enough to melt the glue, but low enough to avoid oozing or third degree burns.

He does not share the code he’s running on the RP2040, but if you are inspired to replicate this project and don’t want to roll your own, there are plenty of example PID scripts out there, like the one in this lovely robot. No, PID isn’t reserved for thermostats– but if you are controlling heat, it’s not reserved for electric, either. Some intrepid soul put built a PID controller for a charcoal BBQ once. Continue reading “Tired Of Burnt Fingers? Try PID Tuning The Hot Glue Gun” →

Putting The M In A UNI-T MSO

January 5, 2026 by Al Williams 15 Comments

[Kerry Wong] points out that the Uni-T MSO oscilloscopes have a logic analyzer built in — that’s the MSO, or Mixed Signal Oscilloscope, part — but you have to add the probes. He shows you how it works in a recent video below.

He’s looked at the scope’s analog capabilities before and was not unimpressed. The probes aren’t inexpensive, but they do unlock the mixed signal capabilities of the instrument.

Continue reading “Putting The M In A UNI-T MSO” →

Print Your Own Standardized Wire Spool Storage

January 2, 2026 by Donald Papp 22 Comments

Hardware hackers tend to have loads of hookup wire, and that led [firstgizmo] to design a 3D printable wire and cable spool storage system. As a bonus, it’s Gridfinity-compatible!

The slot to capture loose ends is a nice touch, and the units can be assembled without external hardware.

There are a lot of little design touches we love. For example, we like the little notch into which the wire ends are held, which provides a way to secure the loose ends without any moving parts. Also, while at first glance these holders look like something that goes together with a few screws, they actually require no additional hardware and can be assembled entirely with printed parts. But should one wish to do so, [firstgizmo] has an alternate design that goes together with some M3 bolts instead.

Want to adjust something? The STEP files are included, which we always love to see because it makes modifications to the models so much more accessible. One thing that hasn’t changed over the years is that making engineering-type adjustments to STL files is awful, at best.

If there is one gotcha, it is that one must remove wire from their old spools and re-wind onto the new to use this system. However, [firstgizmo] tries to make that as easy as possible by providing two tools to make re-spooling easier: one for hand-cranking, and one for using a hand drill to do the work for you.

It’s a very thoughtful design, and as mentioned, can also be used with the Gridfinity system, which seems to open organizational floodgates in most people’s minds. Most of us are pinched for storage space, and small improvements in space-saving really, really add up.