Mandrel Magic: Small Box Assembly With 3D Printing

Often, we face tedious tasks with no way around them. Sometimes, you just have to grit your teeth and push through. But small tweaks can make the onerous task a bit easier to handle. [James Bowman] sent in his latest quick project that helps him fold small boxes more efficiently.

To fulfill orders on his previously covered TermDriver2, [James Bowman] is faced with folding thousands of small boxes. To aid in this daunting task, he had the idea of making a tool to streamline the process — every second saved adds up when you’re repeating a task thousands of times. He designed a 3D printed mandrel that pops the flat box blank open as it’s slid over the tapered top, shaping it into a perfect rectangle for easy folding of the top flaps.

The nice thing about 3D printng is how easy it is to iterate on a design. Once James had the first version printed and verified it worked as hoped, he had ideas to improve it, such as adding a second mandrel to twist the box from both the inside and outside and adding a guide on one side to enhance rigidity.

While we often think of 3D printers producing ready-to-use parts, but printed tooling holds great potential for repetitive tasks, and is a huge cost saver compared to traditional methods.

Two pieces of metal are sitting next to each other on a brick, with one edge touching. The copper end of a torch is directing a flame against the metal, and the metal is glowing brightly around the point where the flame contacts it.

Welding With Natural Gas And Oxygen

By virtue of its triple bond, acetylene burns hotter than any other common hydrocarbon when mixed with oxygen, but it isn’t the only flame hot enough for welding. With the assistance of a homemade oxygen concentrator, [Hyperspace Pirate] was able to make a natural gas torch that melts steel, even if welding with the torch remains difficult.

[Hyperspace Pirate] built his oxygen concentrator around a pressure-swing adsorption system, which uses two tanks of a molecular sieve to selectively adsorb and purge nitrogen, leaving behind mostly oxygen. [Hyperspace Pirate] used reverse-osmosis membrane casings as the tanks, solenoid valves to control gas flow, and an Arduino with some MOSFETs to control the timing. For fuel, he used a convenient source of natural gas, already installed in his garage: the water heater’s gas supply. Since the house’s meter regulates the gas down to a fairly low pressure, and the oxygen concentrator doesn’t produce high pressures, the torch didn’t need any inline regulators.

Inline check valves, on the other hand, were very much necessary, a mixture of oxygen and natural gas propagating back along the lines being undesirable for obvious reasons, and flashback arrestors would have been a good addition. [Hyperspace Pirate] built the torch itself out of copper tubing and needle valves, with a 0.9 mm MIG welder tip as the nozzle. Adjusting the gas mixture was mostly a matter of trial and error. With an oxygen-rich flame, it could cut thin metal decently well, but it tended to melt thick pieces more than it cut. On the other hand, even with a neutral flame, the water vapor in the exhaust oxidized steel, which made welding quite difficult, but not impossible.

The oxygen supply by itself was an entertaining tool, turning smoldering pieces of charcoal or steel wool violently incandescent. With the assistance of some steel wool, [Hyperspace Pirate] set a steel tube on fire. With a bit more oxygen, it would probably make an effective thermic lance. If you still want to do your welding with acetylene, he’s also made that before.

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Test Pattern Generator For SCART And RGB TVs

CRTs don’t last forever, and neither do the electronics that drive them. When you have a screen starting to go wonky, then you need a way to troubleshoot which is at fault. A great tool for that is a pattern generator, but they’re not the easiest to come by these days. [baritonomarchetto] needed a pattern generator to help repair his favourite arcade machine, and decided to make his own DIY Portable RGB CRT Test Pattern Generator.

One of the test patterns available from the device. This TV appears to be in good working order.

While he does cite [Nicholas Murray]’s RP2040 test pattern generator as a starting point (which itself builds on the PicoVGA library once featured here), he couldn’t just build one. That worthy project only outputs VGA and because [baritonomarchetto] is in Europe, he needed a SCART connector. Since he’s working on arcade machines, he needed non-SCART RGB signals, too. The arcade signals need to be at higher voltages (TLL level) than the RGB signal you’d find in SCART and VGA.

The upshot is while he’s using [Nicholas]’s code for the RP2040, he’s rolled his own PCB, including a different resistor ladders to provide the correct voltages depending on if he’s dealing with a home TV or arcade CRT. To make life easier, the whole thing runs off a 9V battery.

If you’re wondering what the point of these test patterns is, check out this 1981-vintage pattern generator for some context from the era. If a digital replica doesn’t float your boat, it is possible to recreate the original analog circuitry that generated these patterns back when the CRT was king.

Dirty Pots, Meet Power Tools!

Let’s face it, nobody likes scrubbing, but what option do you have? You can’t exactly break out the grinder to clean off the remains of last nights dinner… right? Well, maybe not a grinder, but thanks to this hack by [Markus Opitz], you can use an oscillating tool.

It’s a simple enough hack: [Markus] modeled the attachment for his Bosch oscillating tool in Tinkercad, and created a bracket to hold a large metal binder clip. The clip attaches with a screw, and can hold whatever scrubbing pad your carpel-tunnel afflicted hands can’t bear to hold on to. He’s using a self-cleaning stainless-steel sponge.

One nice touch is a pair of protective lips on the jaws of the metal clip, to keep it from accidentally scratching the delicate surface under care. Of course if you have a drill or a Dremel handy you can buy attachments for polishing disks of various grits, but what’s the fun in that? Doing the dishes with a hacked-together oscillating tool just somehow seems more fun. Plus this way you can’t accidentally produce an engine-turning pattern.

We don’t seem to have featured many hacks for these fun, buzzing, multi-purpose tools, so if you’ve got one send us a tip. We did feature an oscillating cutter for CNC once, but that was fully DIY.

Reverse-Engineering The Milwaukee M18 Diagnostics Protocol

As is regrettably typical in the cordless tool world, Milwaukee’s M18 batteries are highly proprietary. Consequently, this makes them a welcome target for reverse-engineering of their interfaces and protocols. Most recently the full diagnostic command set for M18 battery packs were reverse-engineered by [ToolScientist] and others, allowing anyone to check useful things like individual cell voltages and a range of statistics without having to crack open the battery case.

These results follow on our previous coverage back in 2023, when the basic interface and poorly checksummed protocol was being explored. At the time basic battery management system (BMS) information could be obtained this way, but now the range of known commands has been massively expanded. This mostly involved just brute-forcing responses from a gaggle of battery pack BMSes.

Interpreting the responses was the next challenge, with responses like cell voltage being deciphered so far, but serial number and the like being harder to determine. As explained in the video below, there are many gotchas that make analyzing these packs significantly harder, such as some reads only working properly if the battery is on a charger, or after an initial read.

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A lathe is shown on a tabletop. Instead of a normal lathe workspace, there is an XY positioning platform in front of the chuck, with two toolposts mounted on the platform. Stepper motors are mounted on the platform to drive it. The lathe has no tailpiece.

Turning A Milling Machine Into A Lathe

If you’re planning to make a metalworking lathe out of a CNC milling machine, you probably don’t expect getting a position sensor to work to be your biggest challenge. Nevertheless, this was [Anthony Zhang]’s experience. Admittedly, the milling machine’s manufacturer sells a conversion kit, which greatly simplifies the more obviously difficult steps, but getting it to cut threads automatically took a few hacks.

The conversion started with a secondhand Taig MicroMill 2019DSL CNC mill, which was well-priced enough to be purchased specifically for conversion into a lathe. Taig’s conversion kit includes the spindle, tool posts, mounting hardware, and other necessary parts, and the modifications were simple enough to take only a few hours of disassembly and reassembly. The final lathe reuses the motors and control electronics from the CNC, and the milling motor drives the spindle through a set of pulleys. The Y-axis assembly isn’t used, but the X- and Z-axes hold the tool post in front of the spindle.

The biggest difficulty was in getting the spindle indexing sensor working, which was essential for cutting accurate threads. [Anthony] started with Taig’s sensor, but there was no guarantee that it would work with the mill’s motor controller, since it was designed for a lathe controller. Rather than plug it in and hope it worked, he ended up disassembling both the sensor and the controller to reverse-engineer the wiring.

He found that it was an inductive sensor which detected a steel insert in the spindle’s pulley, and that a slight modification to the controller would let the two work together. In the end, however, he decided against using it, since it would have taken up the controller’s entire I/O port. Instead, [Anthony] wired his own I/O connector, which interfaces with a commercial inductive sensor and the end-limit switches. A side benefit was that the new indexing sensor’s mounting didn’t block moving the pulley’s drive belt, as the original had.

The end result was a small, versatile CNC lathe with enough accuracy to cut useful threads with some care. If you aren’t lucky enough to get a Taig to convert, there are quite a few people who’ve built their own CNC lathes, ranging from relatively simple to the extremely advanced.

Looking in the back of the Tektronix 577

Repairing A Tektronix 577 Curve Tracer

Over on his YouTube channel our hacker [Jerry Walker] repairs a Tektronix 577 curve tracer.

A curve tracer is a piece of equipment which plots I-V (current vs voltage) curves, among other things. This old bit of Tektronix kit is rocking a CRT, which dates it. According to TekWiki the Tektronix 577 was introduced in 1972.

In this repair video [Jerry] goes to use his Tektronix 577 only to discover that it is nonfunctional. He begins his investigation by popping off the back cover and checking out the voltages across the voltage rails. His investigations suggest a short circuit. He pushes on that which means he has to remove the side panel to follow a lead into the guts of the machine.

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