A rectangular black box is shown, connected to a coil of fiber-optic wire. Out of the end of the fiber, purple light is emitted. A label in the lower right corner says "405nm Singlemode Light Source".

Building A Fiber-Coupled Laser Source For Precision Optics

Laser diodes are convenient light sources, but for precise optical work their often-elliptical beam profile leaves something to be desired. One way to get around this is to couple the beam into a single-mode optical fiber, which then emits a circular Gaussian beam from the other end. For more advanced experiments, therefore, [Diffraction Limited] built this fiber-coupled laser source.

The simplest approach is to place the fiber directly against a light source, but this results in most of the light missing the three-micron fiber core. Optical fibers have an acceptance cone, and only light approaching from within this cone is coupled into the fiber. The design therefore uses an aspheric lens to focus light from the laser diode down to a tiny point matching the diameter of the fiber core, creating a cone of incoming light narrower than the acceptance cone.

The body of the laser source was CNC machined out of brass, with the laser-diode press-fit in one end. The lens stands in front of the diode, and was glued in place so that its focal point was just above the end of a mounting pin for the glass fiber. Positioning and fixing the fiber in place was the biggest challenge; [Diffraction Limited] could use the micro-manipulator from a previous video to position the fiber, but the UV-set glue used to fix it in place shrinks during curing, pulling it out of position. To deal with this, two set screws under the mounting pin allowed its position to be adjusted slightly after gluing. As expected, adhesive shrinkage meant that the completed source initially produced no light, but after the set screws were adjusted, the beam appeared.

For more on fiber-coupled lasers, check out [Les Wright]’s work. If you don’t have access to an aspheric lens, an anti-bumping bead could be a reasonable alternative.

A 3D Printed Grinder For Printed Lens Blanks

When one thinks of applications for 3D printing, optical components don’t seem to be a good fit. With the possible exception of Fresnel lenses, FDM printing doesn’t seem up to the job of getting the smooth surfaces and precision dimensions needed to focus light. Resin printing might be a little closer to the mark, but there’s still a long way to go between a printed blank and a finished lens.

That gap is what [Fraens] aims to fill with this homebrew lens grinding machine. It uses the same basic methods used to grind and polish lenses for centuries, only with printed components and lens blanks. The machine itself consists of a motorized chuck for holding the lens blank, plus an articulated arm to hold the polishing tool. The tool arm has an eccentric drive that wobbles the polishing tool back and forth across the blank while it rotates in the chuck. Lens grinding requires a lot of water and abrasive, so a large bowl is provided to catch the swarf and keep the work area clean.

Lens blanks are printed to approximately their finished dimensions using clear resin in an SLA printer. [Fraens] spent a lot of time optimizing the printing geometry to minimize the number of print layers required. He found that a 30° angle between the lens and the resin pool worked best, resulting in the clearest blanks. To polish the rough blanks, a lapping tool is made from polymer modeling clay; after baking it dry, the tool can hold a variety of pads and polishing compounds. From there it’s just a matter of running the blank through a range of abrasives to get the desired final surface.

Are the lenses fantastic? Well, they’re probably not going to make it into fine optical equipment, but they’re a lot better than you might expect. Of course, there’s plenty of room for improvement; better resins might result in clearer blanks, and perhaps degassing the uncured resin under vacuum might help with bubbles. Skipping the printed blanks and going with CNC-machined acrylic might be worth a try, too.

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