Balancing Robot Gallery

Cube Teeter Totter: One Motor, Many Lessons

Balancing robots are always fun to see, as they often take forms we’re not used to, such as a box standing on its corner. This project, submitted by [Alexchunlin], showcases a cool single motor reaction cube, where he dives into many lessons learned during its creation.

At the outset, [Alexchunlin] thought this would be a quick, fun weekend project, and while he achieved that, it took longer than a weekend in the end. The cube’s frame was a simple 3D print with provisions to mount his MotorGo AXIS motor controller. This motor controller was initially designed for another project, but it’s great to see him reuse it in this build.

Once the parts were printed and assembled, the real work began: figuring out the best way to keep the cube balanced on its corner. This process involved several steps. The initial control code was very coarse, simply turning the motor on and off, but this didn’t provide the fine control needed for delicate balancing. The next step was implementing a PID control loop, which yielded much better results and allowed the cube to balance on a static surface for a good amount of time. The big breakthrough came when moving from a single PID loop to two control loops. In this configuration, the PID loop made smaller adjustments, while another control loop focused on the system’s total energy, making the cube much more stable.

By the end of the build, [Alexchunlin] had a cube capable of balancing in his hand, but more importantly, it was a great learning experience in controls. Be sure to visit the project page for more details on this build and check out his video below, which shows the steps he took along the way. If you find this project interesting, be sure to explore some of our other featured reaction wheel projects.

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Frankenflair 58: Manual Roots, Advanced Brew

The user interface of things we deal with often makes or breaks our enjoyment of using a device. [Janne] thinks so, he has an espresso machine he enjoys but the default controls were not what he was looking for and so in true hacker fashion he took what was and made it his own.

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Modular Multi-Rotor Flies Up To Two Hours

Flight time remains the Achilles’ heel of electric multi-rotor drones, with even high-end commercial units struggling to stay airborne for an hour. Enter Modovolo, a startup that’s shattered this limitation with their modular drone system achieving flights exceeding two hours.

The secret? Lightweight modular “lift pods” inspired by bicycle wheels using tensioned lines similar to spokes. The lines suspend the hub and rotor within a duct. It’s all much lighter than of traditional rigid framing. The pods can be configured into quad-, hex-, or octocopter arrangements, featuring large 671 mm propellers. Despite their size, the quad configuration weighs a mere 3.5 kg with batteries installed. From the demo-day video, it appears the frame, hub, and propeller are all FDM 3D printed. The internal structure of the propeller looks very similar to other 3D-printed RC aircraft.

The propulsion system operates at just 1000 RPM – far slower than conventional drones. The custom propellers feature internal ring gears driven by small brushless motors through a ~20:1 reduction. This design allows each motor to hover at a mere 60 W, enabling the use of high-density lithium-ion cells typically unsuitable for drone applications. The rest of the electronics are off-the-shelf, with the flight controller running ArduPilot. Due to the unconventional powertrain and large size, the PID tuning was very challenging.

We like the fact this drone doesn’t require fancy materials or electronics, it just uses existing tech creatively. The combination of extended flight times, rapid charging, and modular construction opens new possibilities for applications like surveying, delivery, and emergency response where endurance is critical.

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A General-Purpose PID Controller

For those new to fields like robotics or aerospace, it can seem at first glance that a problem like moving a robot arm or flying an RC airplane might be simple problems to solve. It turns out, however, that control of systems like these can get complicated quickly; so much so that these types of problems have spawned their own dedicated branch of engineering. As controls engineers delve into this field, one of their initial encounters with a control system is often with the PID controller, and this open source project delivers two of these general-purpose controllers in one box.

The dual-channel PID controller was originally meant as a humidity and temperature controller and was based on existing software for an ATmega328. But after years of tinkering, adding new features, and moving the controller to an ESP32 platform, [knifter] has essentially a brand new piece of software for this controller. Configuring the controller itself is done before the software is compiled, and it includes a GUI since one of the design goals of the project was ease-of-use. He’s used it to control humidity, temperature and CO2 levels in his own work at the University of Amsterdam, but imagines that it could see further use outside of his use cases in things like reflow ovens which need simple on/off control or for motors which can be controlled through an H-bridge.

The PID controller itself seems fairly robust, and includes a number of features that seasoned controls engineers would look for in their PID controllers. There are additionally some other open-source PID controllers to take a look at like this one built for an Arduino, and if you’re still looking for interesting use cases for these types of controllers one of our favorites is this PID controller built into a charcoal grill.

A Compact SMD Reflow Hotplate Powered By USB-PD

When it comes to home-lab reflow work, there are a lot of ways to get the job done. The easiest thing to do perhaps is to slap a PID controller on an old toaster oven and call it a day. But if your bench space is limited, you might want to put this compact reflow hotplate to work for you.

There are a lot of nice features in [Toby Chui]’s build, not least of which is the heating element. Many DIY reflow hotplates use a PCB heater, where long, thin traces in the board are used as resistive heating elements. This seems like a great idea, but as [Toby] explains in the project video below, even high-temperature FR4 substrate isn’t rated for the kinds of temperatures needed for some reflow profiles. His search for alternatives led him to metal ceramic heaters (MCH), which are commonly found in medical and laboratory applications. The MCH he chose was rated for 20 VDC at 50 watts — perfect for powering with USB-PD.

The heater sits above the main PCB on a Kapton-wrapped MDF frame with a thermistor to close the loop. While it’s not the biggest work surface we’ve seen, it’s a good size for small projects. The microcontroller is a CH552, which we’ve talked about before; aside from that and the IP2721 PD trigger chip needed to get the full 60 watts out of the USB-PD supply, there’s not much else on the main board.

This looks like a nice design, and [Toby] has made all the design files available if you’d like to give it a crack. Of course, you might want to freshen up on USB-PD before diving in, in which case we recommend [Arya]’s USB-PD primer.

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Bigfoot Turns Classic Sewing Machine Into A Leather-Eating Monster

If you try to sew leather on a standard consumer-grade machine, more often than not you’ll quickly learn its limits. Most machines are built for speed, and trying to get them to punch through heavy material at the low motor speeds often needed for leather work is a lesson in frustration.

How frustrating? Enough so that [Joseph Eoff] expended considerable effort to create this sewing machine speed controller for his nearly century-old Adler sewing machine. The machine was once powered by a foot treadle, which is probably why the project is dubbed “Bigfoot,” but now uses a 230 V universal motor. Such motors don’t deliver much torque when run at low speeds with the standard foot-pedal rheostat control, so [Joseph] worked up an Arduino-based controller with a tachometer for feedback and a high-power PWM driver for the motor.

There are a ton of details in [Joseph]’s post and even more in the original blog article, which is well worth a read, but a couple really stand out. The first is with the tachometer, which uses an off-the-shelf photointerrupter and slotted disc. [Joseph] was displeased with the sensor’s asymmetrical and unreliable output, so he made some modifications to the onboard comparator to square up the signal. Also interesting is the PID loop auto-tuning function he programmed into Bigfoot; press a button and the controller automatically ramps the motor speed up and down and stores the coefficients in memory. Nice!

The short video below shows Bigfoot in action with varying thicknesses of faux leather; there are also some clips in the original article that show the machine dealing with a triple thickness of leather at slow speed and not even breaking a sweat. Hats off to [Joseph] on a solid build that keeps a classic machine in the game. And if you want to get into the textile arts but don’t know where to start, we’ve got you covered.

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Solder Two Boards At Once With This Dual Reflow Plate

Homebrew reflow projects generally follow a pretty simple formula: find a thrift shop toaster oven or hot plate, add a microcontroller and a means to turn the heating element on and off, and close the loop with a thermistor. Add a little code and you’re melting solder paste. Sometimes, though, a ground-up design works better, like this scalable reflow plate with all the bells and whistles.

Now, we don’t mean to hate on the many great reflow projects we’ve seen, of course. But [Michael Benn]’s build is pretty slick. The business end uses 400-watt positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heating elements from Amazon controlled by solid-state relays, although we have to note that we couldn’t find the equivalent parts on the Amazon US site, so that might be a problem. [Michael] also included mechanical temperature cutoffs for each plate, an essential safety feature in case of thermal runaway. The plates are mounted at the top of a 3D-printed case, which also has an angled enclosure for a two-color OLED display and a rotary encoder.

The software runs on an ESP32 and supports multiple temperature profiles for different solder pastes. The software also supports different profiles on the two plates, and even allows for physical expansion to a maximum of four heating plates, or even just a single plate if that’s what you need. The video below shows it going through its paces along with the final results. There’s also a video showing the internals if that’s more your style

We appreciate the fit and finish here, as well as the attention to safety. Can’t find those heating elements for your build? You might have to lose your appetite for waffles.

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