Crazy Old Machines

Al and I were talking about the IBM 9020 FAA Air Traffic Control computer system on the podcast. It’s a strange machine, made up of a bunch of IBM System 360 mainframes connected together to a common memory unit, with all sorts of custom peripherals to support keeping track of airplanes in the sky. Absolutely go read the in-depth article on that machine if it sparks your curiosity.

It got me thinking about how strange computers were in the early days, and how boringly similar they’ve all become. Just looking at the word sizes of old machines is a great example. Over the last, say, 40 years, things that do computing have had 4, 8, 16, 32, or even 64-bit words. You noticed the powers-of-two trend going on here, right? Basically starting with the lowly Intel 4004, it’s been round numbers ever since.

Harvard Mark I, by [Topory]
On the other side of the timeline, though, you get strange beasts. The classic PDP-8 had 12-bit words, while its predecessors the PDP-6 and PDP-1 had 36 bits and 18 bits respectively. (Factors of six?) There’s a string of military guidance computers that had 27-bit words, while the Apollo Guidance computer ran 15-bit words. UNIVAC III had 25-bit words, putting the 23-bit Harvard Mark I to shame.

I wasn’t there, but it gives you the feeling that each computer is a unique, almost hand-crafted machine. Some must have made their odd architectural choices to suit particular functions, others because some designer had a cleaver idea. I’m not a computer historian, but I’m sure that the word lengths must tell a number of interesting stories.

On the whole, though, it gives the impression of a time when each computer was it’s own unique machine, before the convergence of everything to roughly the same architectural ideas. A much more hackery time, for lack of a better word. We still see echoes of this in the people who make their own “retro” computers these days, either virtually, on a breadboard, or emulated in the fabric of an FPGA. It’s not just nostalgia, though, but a return to a time when there was more creative freedom: a time before 64 bits took over.

Isolated AC/DC Power Supply And Testing Station For 230 V Devices

When you’re testing or debugging some mains-powered gear, plugging it directly into the outlet can often be an exciting proposition. If such excitement is not really your thing, you can opt for an isolation transformer and other types of safeties. In the case of [Michał Słomkowski], he opted to take a few steps further by modding a vintage East-German isolating variac with a broken amp meter into an isolated AC/DC power supply and testing station.

The core is formed by the isolated variable transformer, to which a configurable DC output section, a current limiter and digital voltage and current read-outs were added. This enables a variable AC output of 0 – 330 VAC and 0 – 450 VDC on their respective terminals, with the incandescent light bulb providing an optional current limiter.

In its final configuration [Michał] has been using the device for the past four years now for a range of tasks, including the simulating of various undesirable mains power conditions, varying the speed of an old Soviet-era drill, powering vacuum tube devices, capacitor reforming and of course running 100-120 VAC devices from e.g. the US.

As far as feature set goes, we have to admit that it is an impressive device, indeed. Although some parts of it are clearly playing it fast and loose with best practices, with [Michał] admitting to not being an electrician, it was clearly engineered well enough to survive a few years of use, something which cannot be said for even professional laboratory equipment these days.

Environmental Monitoring On The Cheap

If there is one thing we took from [azwankhairul345’s] environmental monitor project, it is this: sensors and computing power for such a project are a solved problem. What’s left is how to package it. The solution, in this case, was using recycled plastic containers, and it looks surprisingly effective.

A Raspberry Pi Pico W has the processing capability and connectivity for a project like this. A large power bank battery provides the power. Off-the-shelf sensors for magnetic field (to measure anemometer spins), air quality, temperature, and humidity are easy to acquire. The plastic tub that protects everything also has PVC pipe and plastic covers for the sensors. Those covers look suspiciously like the tops of drink bottles.

We noted that the battery bank inside the instrument doesn’t have a provision for recharging. That means the device will go about two days before needing some sort of maintenance. Depending on your needs, this could be workable, or you might have to come up with an alternative power supply.

This probably won’t perform as well as a Hoffman box-style container, and we’ve seen those crop up, too. There are a number of ways of sealing things against the elements.

Beer Keg Plumbing For A Liquid Rocket

When you think of a high performance liquid rocket, what do you think of? Beer kegs? No? Well, when [Ryan] from the YouTube channel “Project KegRocket” saw a beer keg, the first thing he and his friends saw was a pressurized rocket body.

You wouldn’t be crazy if the first thing you thought of was something designed by a massive company or university. Liquid rockets are far from simple to develop, with Keg Rocket being no exception. Liquid oxygen and alcohol is the oxidizer/fuel mixture of choice. Liquid oxygen in particular is a problem with its cryogenic temperatures and tendency to do what rocket fuel does best, burn. This problem causes a large amount of work to simply connect the pipes. Traditional O-rings have no chance at surviving, along with most other non-metallic solutions.

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Polymer Skins That Change Color And Texture When Exposed To Water

Researchers at Stanford University recently came up with an interesting way (Phys.org summary) to create patterns and colors that emerge when a polymer is exposed to water. Although the paper itself is sadly paywalled with no preprint available, it’s fairly easily summarized and illustrated with details from the Supplementary Data section. The polymer used is poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene) polystyrene sulfonate (PEDOT:PSS), which when exposed to an electron beam (electron-beam lithography) undergoes certain changes that become apparent when said water is added.

The polymer is hygroscopic, but the electron beam modifies the extent to which a specific area swells up, thus making it possible to create patterns that depend on the amount of electron beam exposure. In order to ‘colorize’ the polymer, complex cavities are created that modify the angular distribution of light, as illustrated in the top image from the Supplemental Data docx file.

By varying the concentration of IPA versus water, the intermediate swelling states can be controlled. Although this sounds pretty advanced, if you look at the supplementary videos that are already sped up a lot, you can see that it is a very slow process. Compared to an octopus and kin whose ability to alter their own skin texture and coloring is legendary and directly controlled by their nervous system, this isn’t quite in the same ballpark yet, even if it’s pretty cool to watch.

Lead Acid Battery Upgraded To Lithium Iron Phosphate

Lithium batteries have taken over as the primary battery chemistry from applications ranging from consumer electronics to electric vehicles and all kinds of other things in between. But the standard lithium ion battery has a few downsides, namely issues operating at temperature extremes. Lead acid solves some of these problems but has much lower energy density, and if you want to split the difference with your own battery you’ll need to build your own lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) pack.

[Well Done Tips] is building this specific type of battery because the lead acid battery in his electric ATV is on the decline. He’s using cylindrical cells that resemble an 18650 battery but are much larger. Beyond the size, though, many of the design principles from building 18650 battery packs are similar, with the exception that these have screw terminals so that bus bars can be easily attached and don’t require spot welding.

With the pack assembled using 3D printed parts, a battery management system is installed with the balance wires cleverly routed through the prints and attached to the bus bars. The only problem [Well Done Tips] had was not realizing that LiFePO4 batteries’ voltages settle a bit after being fully charged, which meant that he didn’t properly calculate the final voltage of his pack and had to add a cell, bringing his original 15S1P battery up to 16S1P and the correct 54V at full charge.

LiFePO4 has a few other upsides compared to lithium ion as well, including that it delivers almost full power until it’s at about 20% charge. It’s not quite as energy dense but compared to the lead-acid battery he was using is a huge improvement, and is one of the reasons we’ve seen them taking over various other EV conversions as well.

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[Denny] removing a plaster bust from a microwave-softened mold

PLA Mold To Plaster Bust, No Silicone Needed

3D printing is wonderful, but sometimes you just don’t want to look at a plastic peice. Beethoven’s bust wouldn’t look quite right in front of your secret door if it was bright orange PLA, after all. [Denny] over at “Shake the Future” on YouTube is taking a break from metal casting to show off a quick-and-easy plaster casting method— but don’t worry, he still uses a microwave.

Most people, when they’re casting something non-metallic from a 3D print are going to reach for castable silicone and create a mold, first. It works for chocolate just as easily as it does plaster, and it does work well. The problem is that it’s an extra step and extra materials, and who can afford the time and money that takes these days?

[Denny]’s proposal is simple: make the mold out of PLA. He’s using a resin slicer to get the negative shape for the mold, and exporting the STL to slice in PrusaSlicer, but Blender, Meshmixer and we’re pretty sure Cura should all work as well. [Denny] takes care when arranging his print to avoid needing supports inside the mold, but that’s not strictly necessary as long as you’re willing to clean them out. After that, it’s just a matter of mixing up the plaster, pouring it into the PLA, mold, and waiting.

Waiting, but not too long. Rather than let the plaster fully set up, [Denny] only waits about an hour. The mold is still quite ‘wet’ at this point, but that’s a good thing. When [Denny] tosses it in his beloved microwave, the moisture remaining in the plaster gets everything hot, softening the PLA so it can be easily cut with scissors and peeled off.

Yeah, this technique is single-use as presented, which might be one advantage to silicone, if you need multiple copies of a cast. Reusing silicone molds is often doable with a little forethought. On the other hand, by removing the plaster half-cured, smoothing out layer lines becomes a simple matter of buffing with a wet rag, which is certainly an advantage to this technique.

Some of you may be going “well, duh,” so check out [Denny]’s cast-iron benchy if his plasterwork doesn’t impress. We’ve long been impressed with the microwave crucibles shown off on “Shake the Future”, but it’s great to have options. Maybe metal is the material, or perhaps plain plastic is perfect– but if not, perchance Plaster of Paris can play a part in your play.

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