The WHY 2025 Badge And Its 18650s

The largest European hacker camp this year was in the Netherlands —  What Hackers Yearn (WHY) 2025 is the latest in the long-running series of four-yearly events from that country, and 2025 saw a move from the Flevoland site used by SHA2017 and MCH2021, back to just north of Alkmaar in Noord-Holland, where the OHM2013 event took place. WHY has found itself making the news in the Dutch technical media for all the wrong reasons over the last few days, after serious concerns were raised about the fire safety of its badge.

The cell supplied with a WHY 2025 badge, with very clear fire safety warning
This is the cell supplied with the WHY badge, complete with manufacturer’s warning.

The concerns were raised from the RevSpace hackerspace in Leidschendam, and centre around the design of the battery power traces on the PCB between the battery holders and the power supply circuitry. Because the 18650 cells supplied with that badge lack any protection circuitry, bridging the power traces could be a fire risk.

In short: their report names the cell holders as having tags too large for their pads on the PCB, a too-tight gap between positive and negative battery traces, protected only by soldermask, and the inadequacy of the badge’s short circuit protection. In the event that metal shorted these battery tags, or wore through the soldermask, the batteries would be effectively shorted, and traces or components could get dangerously hot.

The WHY organizers have responded with a printed disclaimer leaflet warning against misuse of the cells, and added a last-minute epoxy coating to the boards to offer additional protection. Some people are 3D-printing cases, which should also help reduce the risk of short-circuiting due to foreign metal objects. Using an external powerbank with short-circuit protection instead of the cells would solve the problem as well. Meanwhile a group of hackers collecting aid for Ukraine are accepting the batteries as donations.

It’s understood that sometimes bugs find their way into any project, and in that an event badge is no exception. In this particular case, the original Dutch badge team resigned en masse at the start of the year following a disagreement with the  WHY2025 organizers, so this badge has been a particularly hurried production. Either way, we are fortunate that the issue was spotted, and conference organizers took action before any regrettable incidents occurred.

Current Source Mixes Old School And New

At first glance, [RobBest]’s constant current source looks old school. The box is somewhat old-fashioned, featuring switches and binding posts. Most importantly, there’s a large analog meter dominating the front panel. Then you notice the OLED display, and you know something’s up.

The device can source or sink a constant current. In addition, it features a timer that calculates milliamp-hours and automatically turns off when not in use. The brain is a PIC 16F1765, which controls the screen, the buttons, and a few relays. While that might seem an odd choice for the processor, it is actually smart. The device has both a DAC and an ADC, plus an internal op amp. The analog output and a single pass transistor control the current flow, while the two relays flip it between a source and a sink.

Without that op amp, the DAC can’t produce much current. However, by passing it through the onboard amplifier, the output can drive about 100 mA, which is sufficient for this project.

This is a classic circuit, but the addition of a CPU and a display gives it capabilities that would have been very difficult to build back in the day. Want to dive into the theory behind constant current sources?  Or just the practical use of a voltage regulator to make one?

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Physical Aimbot Shoots For Success In Valorant

Modern competitive games have a great deal of anti-cheat software working to make sure you can’t hack the games to get a competitive advantage. [Kamal Carter] decided to work around this by building a physical aimbot for popular FPS Valorant.

The concept is straightforward enough. [Kamal] decided to hardmount an optical mouse to a frame, while moving a mousepad around beneath it with an off-the-shelf Cartesian CNC platform, but modified to be driven by DC motors for quick response. This gave him direct control over the cursor position which is largely undistinguishable from a human being moving the mouse. Clicking the mouse is achieved with a relay. As for detecting enemies and aiming at them, [Kamal] used an object detection system called YOLO. He manually trained the classifier to detect typical Valorant enemies and determine their position on the screen. The motors are then driven to guide the aim point towards the enemy, and the fire command is then given.

The system has some limitations—it’s really only capable of completing the shooting range challenges in Valorant. The vision model isn’t trained on the full range of player characters in Valorant, and it would prove difficult to use such a system in a competitive match. Still, it’s a neat way to demonstrate how games can be roboticized and beaten outside of just the software realm. Video after the break. Continue reading “Physical Aimbot Shoots For Success In Valorant”

Calipers: Do You Get What You Pay For?

Generally, you think that if you pay more for something, it must be better, right? But that’s not always true. Even if it is true at the lower end, sometimes premium brands are just barely better than the midrange. [Project Farm] looks at a bunch of different calipers — a constant fixture around the shop if you do any machining, 3D printing, or PCB layout. The price range spans from less than $10 for some Harbor Freight specials to brands like Mitutoyo, which cost well over $100. Where’s the sweet spot? See the video below to find out.

The first part of the video covers how much the units weigh, how smooth the action is, and how much force it takes to push it down. However, those are not what you probably care most about. The real questions are how accurate and repeatable they are.

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[Ben] at workbench with 3D-printed sea scooter

Watertight And Wireless In One Go: The DIY Sea Scooter

To every gadget, tool, or toy, you can reasonably think: ‘Sure I could buy this… but can I make it myself?’ And that’s where [Ben] decided he could, and got to work. On a sea scooter, to be exact.

This sea scooter was to be a fully waterproof, hermetically sealed 3D-printed underwater personal propulsion device, with the extreme constraint that the entire hull and mechanical interfaces are printed in one go. No post-printing holes for shafts, connectors, or seals. It also meant [Ben] needed to embed all electronics, motor, magnetic gearbox, custom battery pack, wireless charging, and non-contact magnetic control system inside the print during the actual print process.

As [Ben] explains, both Bluetooth and WiFi ranges are laughable once underwater. He elegantly solves this with a reed-switch-based magnetic control system. The non-contact magnetic drive avoids shaft penetrations entirely. Power comes from a custom 8S LiFePO₄ pack, charged wirelessly through the hull. Lastly, everything’s wrapped in epoxy to make it as watertight as a real submarine.

The whole trick of ‘print-in-place’ is that [Ben] pauses the builder mid-print, and drops in each subsystem like a secret ingredient. Continuing, he tweaks the printer’s Z-offset, and onwards it goes. It’s tense, high-stakes work; a 14-hour print where one nozzle crash means binning hundreds of dollars’ worth of embedded components.

Still, [Ben] took the chance, and delivered a cool, fully packed and fully working sea scooter. Comment below to discuss the possibilities of building one yourself.

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door spring

Compliant Contacts: Hacking Door Locks With Pen Springs

As you may have guessed given our name, we do love hacks around here, and this one is a great example of making some common, everyday things work in uncommon ways. [Nathan] sent in his hack to detect the door lock position in his basement.

Having a house that dates back to the 1890s, much of it was not very conducive to using off-the-shelf home automation devices. [Nathan] wanted a way to check the status of the basement deadbolt. He went about putting together a custom sensor using some spare parts, including a spare BeagleBone Black. Going full MacGyver, [Nathan] used springs from a ballpoint pen to craft a compliant contact for his sensor.

The pair of springs sat in the door frame and came in contact with the deadbolt; given they are springs, the exact position of the sensor was not very sensitive, as if too close it would just compress the springs slightly more. The springs were wired to the BeagleBone Black’s GPIO, acting as a switch to sense when there was conductivity between the springs through the deadbolt.

This wasn’t just a plug-it-in-and-it-works type of project, mind you; the BeagleBone Black was over 15 ft away from the sensors, lending plenty of opportunity for noise to be introduced into the lines. To combat this, [Nathan] created an RC filter to filter out all the high-frequency noise picked up by his sensor. Following the RC filter, he added in some code to handle the debounce of the sensor, as the springs have some inherent noise in them. Thanks [Nathan] for sending in your resourceful hack; we love seeing the resourcefulness of reusing things already on hand for other purposes. Be sure to check out some of the other repurposed components we’ve featured.

Building A Trash Can Reverb

These days, if you want a reverb effect, you just dial up whatever software plugin most appeals to you and turn the dials to taste. However, [Something Physical] specialises in… physical things… and thus built a reverb the old fashioned way. Using a trashcan, of course.

The concept is simple enough—the method of operation is exactly the same as any old plate reverb. Audio is played through a speaker connected to the plate (or trashcan), causing it to vibrate. The sound is then picked up at another point on the plate (or trashcan) with some kind of microphonic pickups, amplified, and there you have your reverb signal.

Given it’s built around a piece of street furniture, [Something Physical] has dubbed this the Street-Verb. It uses a class D amp to drive a speaker with a bolt stuck to it. The bolt is then put in contact with the trashcan itself to transfer the vibration. A pair of piezo elements are used as the pickups, run through a preamps built with a humble BC109C transistor. Since there are two pickups, the Street-Verb is effectively a stereo reverb unit, though the input is only mono. [Something Physical] set up the speaker driver and pickups to be easily movable, and was able to test the device with all kinds of street furniture, like gates and street signs, but the trashcan ‘verb setup is by far the most compelling.

We’ve featured other plate reverb builds before, too, albeit less garbage-themed. Video after the break.

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