AMSAT-OSCAR 7: The Ham Satellite That Refused To Die

March 29, 2025 by Maya Posch 46 Comments

When the AMSAT-OSCAR 7 (AO-7) amateur radio satellite was launched in 1974, its expected lifespan was about five years. The plucky little satellite made it to 1981 when a battery failure caused it to be written off as dead. Then, in 2002 it came back to life. The prevailing theory being that one of the cells in the satellites NiCd battery pack, in an extremely rare event, failed open — thus allowing the satellite to run (intermittently) off its solar panels.

In a recent video by [Ben] on the AE4JC Amateur Radio YouTube channel goes over the construction of AO-7, its operation, death and subsequent revival are covered, as well as a recent QSO (direct contact).

The battery is made up of multiple individual cells.

The solar panels covering this satellite provided a grand total of 14 watts at maximum illumination, which later dropped to 10 watts, making for a pretty small power budget. The entire satellite was assembled in a ‘clean room’ consisting of a sectioned off part of a basement, with components produced by enthusiasts associated with AMSAT around the world. Onboard are two radio transponders: Mode A at 2 meters and Mode B at 10 meters, as well as four beacons, three of which are active due to an international treaty affecting the 13 cm beacon.

Positioned in a geocentric LEO (1,447 – 1,465 km) orbit, it’s quite amazing that after 50 years it’s still mostly operational. Most of this is due to how the satellite smartly uses the Earth’s magnetic field for alignment with magnets as well as the impact of photons to maintain its spin. This passive control combined with the relatively high altitude should allow AO-7 to function pretty much indefinitely while the PV panels keep producing enough power. All because a NiCd battery failed in a very unusual way.

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Open Source Framework Aims To Keep Tidbyt Afloat

March 29, 2025 by Tom Nardi 10 Comments

We recently got a note in the tips line from [Tavis Gustafson], who is one of the developers of Tronbyt — a replacement firmware and self-hosted backend that breaks the Tidbyt smart display free from its cloud dependency. When they started the project, [Tavis] says the intent was simply to let privacy-minded users keep their data within the local network, which was itself a goal worthy enough to be featured on these pages.

But now that Tidbyt has been acquired by Modal and has announced they’ll no longer be producing new units, things have shifted slightly. While the press release says that the Tidbyt backend is going to stay up and running for existing customers, the writing is clearly on the wall. It’s now possible that the Tronbyt project will be able to keep these devices from ending up in landfills when the cloud service is inevitably switched off, especially if they can get the word out to existing users before then.

What’s that? You say you haven’t heard of Tidbyt? Well, truth be told, neither had we. So we did some digging, and this is where things get really interesting.

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Contagious Ideas

March 29, 2025 by Elliot Williams 10 Comments

We ran a story about a wall-mounted plotter bot this week, Mural. It’s a simple, but very well implemented, take on a theme that we’ve seen over and over again in various forms. Two lines, or in this case timing belts, hang the bot on a wall, and two motors drive it around. Maybe a servo pulls the pen in and out, but that’s about it. The rest is motor driving and code.

We were thinking about the first such bot we’ve ever seen, and couldn’t come up with anything earlier than Hektor, a spray-painting version of this idea by [Juerg Lehni]. And since then, it’s reappeared in numerous variations.

Some implementations mount the motors on the wall, some on the bot. There are various geometries and refinements to try to make the system behave more like a simple Cartesian one, but in the end, you always have to deal with a little bit of geometry, or just relish the not-quite-straight lines. (We have yet to see an implementation that maps out the nonlinearities using a webcam, for instance, but that would be cool.) If you’re feeling particularly reductionist, you can even do away with the pen-lifter entirely and simply draw everything as a connected line, Etch-a-Sketch style. Maslow CNC swaps out the pen for a router, and cuts wood.

What I love about this family of wall-plotter bots is that none of them are identical, but they all clearly share the same fundamental idea. You certainly wouldn’t call any one of them a “copy” of another, but they’re all related, like riffing off of the same piece of music, or painting the same haystack in different lighting conditions: robot jazz, or a study in various mechanical implementations of the same core concept. The collection of all wall bots is more than the sum of its parts, and you can learn something from each one. Have you made yours yet?

(Fantastic plotter-bot art by [Sarah Petkus] from her write-up ten years ago!)

Recreating The Analog Beauty Of A Vintage Tektronix Oscillator

March 29, 2025 by Dan Maloney 11 Comments

Tektronix must have been quite a place to work back in the 1980s. The company offered a bewildering selection of test equipment, and while the digital age was creeping in, much of their gear was still firmly rooted in the analog world. And some of the engineering tricks the Tek wizards pulled off are still the stuff of legend.

One such gem of analog design was the SG505, an ultra-low-distortion oscillator module that [Paul] is trying to replicate with modern parts. That’s a tall order since not only did the original specs on this oscillator call for less than 0.0008% total harmonic distortion over a frequency range of 20 Hz to 20 kHz, but a lot of the components it used are no longer manufactured. Tek also tended to use a lot of custom parts, especially mechanical ones like the barrel switch used to select attenuation levels in the SG505, leaving [Paul] no choice but to engineer his way around them.

So far, [Paul] has managed to track down most of the critical components or source suitable substitutes. One major win was locating the original J-FET Tek used in the oscillator’s AGC circuit. One part that’s proven more elusive is the potentiometer that Tek used to adjust the frequency; who knew that finding a dual-gang precision wirewound 10k single-turn pot with no physical stop would be such a chore?

[Paul] still seems to be very much in the planning stages of this project yet, and that’s probably for the best since projects such as these live and die on proper planning. We’re keen to see how this develops, and we’re very much looking forward to seeing the FFT results. We also imagine he’ll be busting out his custom curve tracer at some point in the build, too.

How To Make A 13 Mm Hole With A 1/2″ Drill Bit

March 29, 2025 by Donald Papp 75 Comments

As everyone knows, no matter how many drill bits one owns, one inevitably needs a size that isn’t on hand. Well, if you ever find yourself needing to drill a hole that’s precisely 13 mm, here’s a trick from [AvE] to keep in mind for doing it with a 1/2″ bit. It’s a hack that only works in certain circumstances, but hey, it just may come in handy some day.

So the first step in making a 13 mm hole is to drill a hole with a 1/2″ bit. That’s easy enough. Once that’s done, fold a few layers of tinfoil over into a small square and lay it over the hole. Then put the drill bit onto the foil, denting it into the hole (but not puncturing it) with the tip, and drill at a slow speed until the foil wraps itself around the bit like a sheath and works itself into the hole. The foil enlarges the drill bit slightly and — as long as the material being drilled cooperates — resizes the hole a tiny bit bigger in the process. The basic idea can work with just about any drill bit.

It’s much easier demonstrated than described, so watch it in action in the video around the 2:40 mark which will make it all very clear.

It’s not the most elegant nor the most accurate method (the hole in the video actually ends up closer to 13.4 mm) but it’s still something worth keeping in the mental toolbox. Just file it away along with laying your 3D printer on its side to deal with tricky overhangs.

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Pictures From A High Altitude Balloon

March 28, 2025 by Al Williams 14 Comments

How do you get images downlinked from 30 km up? Hams might guess SSTV — slow scan TV — and that’s the approach [desafloinventor] took. If you haven’t seen it before (no pun intended), SSTV is a way to send images over radio at a low frame rate. Usually, you get about 30 seconds to 2 minutes per frame.

The setup uses regular, cheap walkie-talkies for the radio portion on a band that doesn’t require a license. The ESP32-CAM provides the processing and image acquisition. Normally, you don’t think of these radios as having a lot of range, but if the transmitter is high, the range will be very good. The project steals the board out of the radio to save weight. You only fly the PC board, not the entire radio.

If you are familiar with SSTV, the ESP-32 code encodes the image using Martin 1. This color format was developed by a ham named [Martin] (G3OQD). A 320×256 image takes nearly two minutes to send. The balloon system sends every 10 minutes, so that’s not a problem.

Of course, this technique will work anywhere you want to send images over a communication medium. Hams use these SSTV formats even on noisy shortwave frequencies, so the protocols are robust.

Hams used SSTV to trade memes way before the Internet. Need to receive SSTV? No problem.

Make DIY Conductive, Biodegradable String Right In Your Kitchen

March 28, 2025 by Donald Papp 3 Comments

[ombates] shares a step-by-step method for making a conductive bio-string from scratch, no fancy equipment required. She demonstrates using it to create a decorative top with touch-sensitive parts, controlling animations on an RGB LED pendant. To top it off, it’s even biodegradable!

The string is an alginate-based bioplastic that can be made at home and is shaped in a way that it can be woven or knitted. Alginate comes primarily from seaweed, and it gels in the presence of calcium ions. [ombates] relies on this to make a goopy mixture that, once extruded into a calcium chloride bath, forms a thin rubbery length that can be dried into the strings you see here. By adding carbon to the mixture, the resulting string is darkened in color and also conductive.

There’s no details on what the actual resistance of a segment of this string can be expected to measure, but while it might not be suitable to use as wiring it is certainly conductive enough to act as a touch sensor in a manner similar to the banana synthesizer. It would similarly be compatible with a Makey Makey (the original and incredibly popular hardware board for turning household objects into touch sensors.)

What you see here is [ombates]’ wearable demonstration, using the white (non-conductive) string interwoven with dark (conductive) portions connected to an Adafruit Circuit Playground board mounted as an LED pendant, with the conductive parts used as touch sensors.

Alginate is sometimes used to make dental molds and while alginate molds lose their dimensional accuracy as they dry out, for this string that’s not really a concern. If you give it a try, visit our tip line to let us know how it turned out!