For many a hacker, stenciling a board for the first time is a game-changing experience – the solder joints you get, sure do give your PCB the aura of a mass-manufactured device. Now, you might not get a perfect print – and neither did [Atul R]. Not to worry, because if you have a 3D printer handy, he’s showing you how to design a 3D-printed frame using Blender and TinkerCAD, making your solder paste print well even if you’re trying to rest a giant stencil on top of a tiny board.
[Atul]’s situation was non-characteristic – the project is a 2mm thick PCB designed to plug right into a USB port, so the usual trick of using some scrap PCBs wouldn’t work, and using a 3D-printed frame turned out to be key. To get it done, he exported a .wrl from KiCad, processed it in Blender, and then designed a frame with help of TinkerCAD. These techniques, no doubt, will translate into your CAD of choice – especially if you go with .step export instead of .wrl.
This kind of frame design will get you far, especially for boards where the more common techniques fail – say, if you need to assemble a double-sided board and one side is already populated. Don’t have a stencil? You could surely make a 3D printed stencil, too, both for KiCad boards and for random Gerber files. Oh, and don’t forget this 3D-printable stencil alignment jig, while you’re at it – looks like it ought to save you quite a bit of trouble.
Ah, tiles. You can get square ones, and do a grid, or you can get fancier shapes and do something altogether more complex. By and large though, whatever pattern you choose, it will normally end up repeating on some scale or other. That is, unless you go with something like a Penrose Wave Tile. Discovered by mathematician Roger Penrose, they never exactly repeat, no matter how you lay them out.
[carterhoefling14] decided to try and create Penrose tiles at home—with a 3D printer being the perfect route to do it. Creating the tiles was simple—the first step was to find a Penrose pattern image online, which could then be used as the basis to design the 3D part in Fusion 360. From there, the parts were also given an inner wave structure to add further visual interest. The tiles were then printed to create a real-world Penrose tile form.
You could certainly use these Penrose tiles as decor, though we’d make some recommendations if you’re going that path. For one, you’ll want to print them in a way that optimizes for surface quality, as post-processing is time consuming and laborious. If you’re printing in plastic, probably don’t bother using these as floor tiles, as they won’t hold up. Wall tiles, though? Go nuts, just not as a splashback or anything. Keep it decorative only.
Here’s how it works: each build plate gets a sort of “shoe” affixed to it, with which attachments on the printer itself physically interact when loading new plates and removing filled ones.
When a print job is finished, custom G-code causes an attachment on the printer to wedge itself under the build plate and peel it off until it is freed from the magnetic bed, after which the finished plate can be pushed towards the front. A stack of fresh build plates is behind the printer, and the printer slips a new one from the bottom when needed. Again, since the printer’s bed is magnetic, all one has to do is get the new plate to reliably line up and the magnetic attraction does the rest.
Some methods of automating print jobs rely on ejecting the finished parts and others swap the print beds. [Andre]’s is the latter type and we do really like how few moving parts are involved, although the resulting system has the drawback of requiring considerably more table space than just the printer itself. Still, it’s not at all a bad trade-off.
[Ben] may be 15 years old, but he’s got the knack for 3D printing and artistic mechanical design. When you see his 3D-printed mechanical jellyfish lamp, we think you’ll agree. Honestly, it is hardly fair to call it a lamp. It is really — as [Ben] points out — a kinetic sculpture.
One of the high points of the post is the very detailed documentation. Not only is everything explained, but there is quite a bit of background information on jellyfish, different types of gears, and optimizing 3D prints along with information on how to recreate the sculpture.
There is quite a bit of printing, including the tentacles. There are a few options, like Arduino-controlled LEDs. However, the heart of the operation is a geared motor.
All the design files for 3D printing and the Arduino code are in the post. There’s also a remote control. The design allows you to have different colors for various pieces and easily swap them with a screwdriver.
One major concern was how noisy the thing would be with a spinning motor. According to [Ben], the noise level is about 33 dB, which is about what a whisper sounds like. However, he mentions you could consider using ball bearings, quieter motors, or different types of gears to get the noise down even further.
We imagine this jellyfish will come in at well under $6 million. If you don’t want your jellyfish to be art, maybe you’d prefer one that creates art.
[Julius Curt] needed to mark acrylic panels with a bit more clarity than the usual way of rastering the surface, so they attempted to 3D print directly to an acrylic sheet, which worked perfectly. The obvious way to do this was to bond the acrylic sheet to the bed with glue temporarily, but another way was tried, and it’s much less messy and precarious.
The bond between a 3D print and acrylic is very strong
The first step was to create a 3D model which combined a constraining ‘fence’ to contain the acrylic panel with the required artwork floating above. It was easy enough to run the print long enough to build the fence, then pause the print mid-way to add the pristine panel and restart after a quick re-prime and wipe.
There were a few simple takeaways from the video below. First, to ensure sufficient tolerance between the fence and the panel, consider the layer width (plus associated tolerance when printed) and the laser kerf of your machines to ensure a not-too-sloppy fit. Secondly, that hot nozzle won’t do the acrylic surface any favours during travel moves, so enabling Z-hopping is essential!
Another use for this simple technique is to fully incorporate an acrylic sheet within a print by pausing at an appropriate height again, dropping the panel in, and continuing the print. A degree of overlap will lock the panel tight, with the plastic bonding very firmly to the acrylic, as [Julius] demonstrates in the video.
It’s always a delight to see how techniques can combine to create the desired effects. Here’s how to use a color laser printer and toner transfer paper to apply designs to a 3D printing front panel. Whilst we’re thinking about the multitude of uses for hacking with acrylic, what about not doing that and using corrugated plastic instead?
Sometimes, you see a project that isn’t a technical powerhouse but just looks so good you can’t help but think about duplicating it. That’s how we felt with the mini-neon signs made by [makerverse]. From an electronics point of view, it is just some filament LEDs and a 3D-printed casing. But, as you’ll see in the video below, these look like little miniature neon signs, and they look great.
Although we might use a different set of tools to get there, the idea is to create your text in DXF, extrude it in CAD, and then print a dark shell with a light or translucent center using a filament change. Glow-in-the-dark filament is also an option. Obviously, if you are handy in any CAD tool, you could easily pull this off.
Although less popular these days, wire-wrap is still a very relevant, easily reversible solder-free way to assemble (prototype) systems using wire-wrap wire and a wire-wrap tool. This latter tool can be either a hand or powered tool, but all it has to do is retain the stripped wire, fit around the wire-wrapping post and create a snug, oxidation-proof metal-metal contact fit. For the very common 30 AWG (0.25 mm) wire-wrap wire, the Jonard Tools (OK Industries) WSU-30M wire-strip-unwrap tool is pretty much the popular standard. It allows you to strip off insulation, wrap and unwrap connections all with one tool, but the question is whether you can just 3D print a wrap-unwrap tool that’s about as good?
First a note about cost, as although the genuine WSU-30M has risen in cost over the years, it can still be obtained for around $50 from retails like Mouser, while clones of varying quality can be obtained for around $15 from your favorite e-tailer website. From experience, these clones have quite sloppy tolerance, and provide a baseline of where a wrapping tool becomes unusable, as they require some modding to be reliable.
Wire-wrap tool model by [KidSwidden] on Thingiverse.Taking a quick look at the wire-wrap tools available on Thingiverrse, we can see basically two categories: one which goes for minimally viable, with just a cylinder that has a hole poked on the side for the stripped wire to fit through, as these versions by [JLSA_Portfolio], [paulgeneres], [orionids] and [cmellano]. The WSU-30M and similar tools have a channel on the side that the stripped wire is fed into, to prevent it from getting tangled up and snagging. On the clone units this channel often has to be taped off to prevent the wire from escaping and demonstrating why retaining the wire prior to wrapping is a good idea.
This leads us to three examples of a 3D printed wire-wrap tool with such a wire channel: by [KidSwidden] (based on a Radio Shack unit, apparently), another by [DieKatzchen] and an interesting variation by [4sStylZ]. Naturally, the problem with such fine features is that tolerance matter a lot, with an 0.2 mm nozzle (for FDM printers) recommended, and the use of an SLA printer probably a good idea. It’s also hard to say what kind of wire-wrap connection you are going to get, as there are actually two variants: regular and modified.
The starting guide to wire-wrapping by Sparkfun uses the WSU-30M, which as the name suggests uses modified wire-wrap, which means that part of the wire insulation is wrapped around the bottom of the post, for extra mechanical stability, effectively like strain-relief. A lot of such essential details are covered in this [Nuts and Volts] article which provides an invaluable starting guide to wire-wrapping, including detecting bad wraps.
Naturally, the 3D printed tools will not include a stripper for the wire insulation, so you will have to provide this yourself (PSA: using your teeth is not recommended), and none of these 3D models include an unwrap tool, which may or may not be an issue for you, as careful unwrapping allows you to reuse the wire, which can be useful while debugging or reworking a board.
Top image: completed wire-wrap on a post. (Credit: Sparkfun)
