The bed of a small CNC machine is shown. A plastic tub is on the bed, and in the tub is a sheet of metal under a pale green solution. In place of the spindle of the CNC, there is a rectangular orange tube extending down into the solution. A red wire runs to this tube, and a black wire runs to the sheet of metal in the tub.

Painting In Metal With Selective Electroplating

July 24, 2025 by Aaron Beckendorf 5 Comments

Most research on electroplating tries to find ways to make it plate parts more uniformly. [Ajc150] took the opposite direction, though, with his selective electroplating project, which uses an electrode mounted on a CNC motion system to electrochemically print images onto a metal sheet (GitHub repository).

Normally, selective electroplating would use a mask, but masks don’t allow gradients to be deposited. However, electroplating tends to occur most heavily at the point closest to the anode, and the effect gets stronger the closer the anode is. To take advantage of this effect, [ajc150] replaced the router of an inexpensive 3018 CNC machine with a nickel anode, mounted an electrolyte bath in the workspace, and laid a flat steel cathode in it. When the anode moves close to a certain point on the steel cathode, most of the plating takes place there.

To actually print an image with this setup, [ajc150] wrote a Python program to convert an image into set of G-code instructions for the CNC. The darker a pixel of the image was, the longer the electrode would spend over the corresponding part of the metal sheet. Since darkness wasn’t linearly proportional to plating time, the program used a gamma correction function to adjust times, though this did require [ajc150] to recalibrate the setup after each change. The system works well enough to print recognizable images, but still has room for improvement. In particular, [ajc150] would like to extend this to a faster multi-nozzle system, and have the algorithm take into account spillover between the pixel being plated and its neighbors.

This general technique is reminiscent of a metal 3D printing method we’ve seen before. We more frequently see this process run in reverse to cut metal.

Nylon-Like TPU Filament: Testing CC3D’s 72D TPU

July 22, 2025 by Maya Posch 8 Comments

Another entry in the world of interesting FDM filaments comes courtesy of CC3D with their 72D TPU filament, with [Dr. Igor Gaspar] putting it to the test in his recent video. The use of the Shore hardness D scale rather than the typical A scale is a strong indication that something is different about this TPU. The manufacturer claims ‘nylon-like’ performance, which should give this TPU filament much more hardness and resistance to abrasion. The questions are whether this filament lives up to these promises, and whether it is at all fun to print with.

The CC3D 72D TPU filament used to print a bicycle's handlebar. (Credit: My Tech Fun, YouTube) — The CC3D 72D TPU filament used to print a bicycle’s handlebar grips. (Credit: My Tech Fun, YouTube)

TPU is of course highly hydrophilic, so keeping the filament away from moisture is essential. Printing temperature is listed on the spool as 225 – 245°C, and the filament is very bendable but not stretchable. For the testing a Bambu Lab X-1 Carbon was used, with the filament directly loaded from the filament dryer. After an overnight print session resulted in spaghetti due to warping, it was found that generic TPU settings at 240ºC with some more nylon-specific tweaks seemed to give the best results, with other FDM printers also working well that way.

The comparison was against Bambu Lab’s 68D TPU for AMS. Most noticeable is that the 72D TPU easily suffers permanent deformation, while being much more wear resistant than e.g. PLA. That said, it does indeed seem to perform more like polyamide filaments, making it perhaps an interesting alternative there. Although there’s some confusion about whether this TPU filament has polyamide added to it, it seems to be pure TPU, just like the Bambu Lab 68D filament.

Continue reading “Nylon-Like TPU Filament: Testing CC3D’s 72D TPU” →

A variety of red and black glass objects are shown on a white background. In the foreground, there are two black spiral-patterned earrings. To the left is a red and black shape with three points on the top. On the right, a deformed glass sheet is shown bent over concentric red and black glass rings. In the center top is a red glass vase with a roughly-textured exterior.

Paste Extrusion For 3D Printing Glass And Eggshells

July 22, 2025 by Aaron Beckendorf 14 Comments

In contrast to the success of their molten-plastic cousins, paste extrusion 3D printers have never really attained much popularity. This is shame because, as the [Hand and Machine] research group at the University of New Mexico demonstrate, you can use them to print with some really interesting materials, including glass and eggshell. Links to the respective research papers are here: glass and eggshells, with presentations in the supplemental materials.

To print with glass, the researchers created a clay-like paste out of glass frit, methyl cellulose and xanthan gum as shear-thinning binders, and water. They used a vacuum chamber to remove bubbles, then extruded the paste from a clay 3D printer. After letting the resulting parts dry, they fired them in a kiln at approximately 750 ℃ to burn away the binder and sinter the frit. This introduced some shrinkage, but it was controllable enough to at least make decorative parts, and it might be predictable enough to make functional parts after some post-processing.

Path generation for the printer was an interesting problem; the printer couldn’t start and stop extrusion quickly, so [Hand and Machine] developed a custom slicer to generate tool paths that minimize material leakage. To avoid glass walls collapsing during firing, they also wrote another slicer to maintain constant wall thicknesses.

The process for printing with eggshell was similar: the researchers ground eggshells into a powder, mixed this with water, methyl cellulose and xanthan gum, and printed with the resulting paste. After drying, the parts didn’t need any additional processing. The major advantage of these parts is their biodegradability, as the researchers demonstrated by printing a biodegradable pot for plants. To be honest, we don’t think that this will be as useful an innovation for hackers as the glass could be, but it does demonstrate the abilities of paste extrusion.

The same team has previously used a paste printer to 3D print in metal. If you don’t have a paste printer, it’s also possible to print glass using a laser cutter, or you could always make your own paste extruder.

Elegoo Rapid PETG Vs PETG Pro: Same Price, Similar Specs, Which To Buy?

July 19, 2025 by Maya Posch 16 Comments

Even within a single type of FDM filament there is an overwhelming amount of choice. Take for example Elegoo’s PETG filament offerings, which include such varieties like ‘Pro’ and ‘Rapid’. Both cost the same, but is there a reason to prefer one over the other, perhaps even just for specific applications? To test this, [Dr. Igor Gaspar] over at the My Tech Fun YouTube channel bought some spools of these two filaments and subjected both to a series of tests.

Obviously, the Rapid filament is rated for higher extrusion speeds – <270 vs <600 mm/s – while the website claims a higher required nozzle temperature that confusingly does not match those listed on the spool. There are quite a few differences in the listed specifications, including the physical and mechanical properties, which make it hard to draw any immediate conclusions. Could you perhaps just use Rapid PETG and forget about the Pro version?

Test objects were printed with a Bambu Lab P1P with an AMS unit. After calibrating the ideal temperature for each filament, a tensile break test gave a win to the Rapid PETG, followed by a layer adhesion test win. This pattern continued across further tests, with Rapid PETG either matching or beating the Pro PETG.

There are only two advantages of the Pro version that can be seen here, which are less moisture sensitivity and stringing risk, and you of course get the luxury cardboard spool with the closed edges. Whether that’s enough to make you go ‘Pro’ remains to be seen, of course.

Continue reading “Elegoo Rapid PETG Vs PETG Pro: Same Price, Similar Specs, Which To Buy?” →

A photo of a Stirling Engine attached to a bike

Building A Stirling Engine Bike

July 17, 2025 by John Elliot V 27 Comments

Over on his YouTube channel [Tom Stanton] shows us how to build a Stirling Engine for a bike.

A Stirling Engine is a heat engine, powered by the expansion and contraction of a working fluid (such as air) which is heated and cooled in a cycle. In the video [Tom] begins by demonstrating the Stirling Engine with some model engines and explains the role of the displacer piston. His target power output for his bike engine is 150 watts (about 0.2 horsepower) which is enough power to cycle at about 15 mph (about 24 km/h). After considering a CPU heatsink as the cooling system he decided on water cooling instead.

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This Service Life Study Really Grinds Our Gears

July 17, 2025 by Tyler August 69 Comments

3D printing is arguably over-used in the maker community. It’s just so easy to run off a quick prototype and then… well, it’s good enough, right? Choosing the right plastic can go a long way to making sure your “good enough” prototype really is good enough for long term use. If you’re producing anything with gearing, you might want to cast your eyes to a study by [Mert Safak Tunalioglu] and [Bekir Volkan Agca] titled: Wear and Service Life of 3-D Printed Polymeric Gears.

Photograph of the test rig used in the study. — No spin doctoring here, spinning gears.

The authors printed simple test gears in ABS, PLA, and PETG, and built a test rig to run them at 900 rpm with a load of 1.5 Nm against a steel drive gear. The gears were pulled off and weighed every 10,000 rotations, and allowed to run to destruction, which occurred in the hundreds-of-thousands of rotations in each case. The verdict? Well, as you can tell from the image, it’s to use PETG.

The authors think that this is down to PETG’s ductility, so we would have liked to see a hard TPU added to the mix, to say nothing of the engineering filaments. On the other hand, this study was aimed at the most common plastics in the 3D printing world and also verified a theoretical model that can be applied to other polymers.

This tip was sent in by [Benjamin], who came across it as part of the research to build his first telescope, which we look forward to seeing. As he points out, it’s quite lucky for the rest of us that the U.S. government provides funding to make such basic research available, in a way his nation of France does not. All politics aside, we’re grateful both to receive your tips and for the generosity of the US taxpayer.

We’ve seen similar tests done by the community — like this one using worm gears — but it’s also neat to see how institutional science approaches the same problem. If you need oodles of cycles but not a lot of torque, maybe skip the spurs and print a magnetic gearbox. Alternatively you break out the grog and the sea shanties and print yourself a capstan.

Introducing PooLA Filament: Grass Fiber-Reinforced PLA

July 14, 2025 by Maya Posch 25 Comments

We’re probably all familiar with adding wood dust, hemp and carbon fibers to PLA filament, but there are so many other fillers one could add. During the completely unrelated recent heatwave in Germany, [Stefan] from CNCKitchen decided to give a new type of biodegradable filler type a shot by scooping some freshly dried cow patties off the very picturesque grazing fields near his place. In the resulting video a number of questions are answered about this ‘PooLA’ that nobody was asking, such as whether it makes for a good filler, and whether it smells bad while printing.

Perhaps unsurprisingly to those who have spent any amount of time around large herbivores like cows, cow dung doesn’t smell bad since it’s mostly composed of the grass fibers that are left over after the cow’s multiple stomachs and repeated chewing have done their thing. As [Stefan] and his colleagues thus found out was that printing with PooLA smells like printing with grass.

As for the practical benefits of PooLA, it adds a nice coloring, but like other ‘reinforced’ PLA filaments seems to trade flexibility for stiffness, so that at ratios of cow dung powder between 5 to 20% added to the PLA powder the test parts would break faster. Creating the filament was also a bit of a chore, for reasons that [Stefan] still has to figure out.

That said, aside from the technically unneeded bacterial corpses and other detritus in cow patties, using grass fibers in FDM filament isn’t a crazy idea, and might fit right in there with other fibers.

Continue reading “Introducing PooLA Filament: Grass Fiber-Reinforced PLA” →