Handy Online Metric Screw, Nut, And Washer Generator

For those times when you could really use a quick 3D model, this metric screw generator will do the trick for screws between M2 and M16 with matching nuts and washers. Fastener hardware is pretty accessible, but one never knows when a 3D printed piece will hit the spot. One might even be surprised what can be usefully printed on a decent 3D printer at something like 0.08 mm layer height.

Behind the scenes, [Jason]’s tool is an OpenSCAD script with a very slick web-based interface that allows easy customization of just about any element one might need to adjust, including fine-tuning the thread sizing. We’re fans of OpenSCAD here and appreciate what’s going on behind the scenes, but one doesn’t need to know anything about it to use the online tool.

Generated models can be downloaded as .3mf or .stl, but if you really need a CAD model you’re probably best off looking up a part and downloading the matching 3D model from a supplier like McMaster-Carr.

Prefer to just use the OpenSCAD script yourself, instead of the web interface? Select “Download STL/CAD Files” from the dropdown of the project page to download ScrewGenerator.scad for local use, and you’re off to the races.

A dismantled drill on a cluttered workbench

Going Brushless: Salvaging A Dead Drill

Let’s face it—seeing a good tool go to waste is heartbreaking. So when his cordless drill’s motor gave up after some unfortunate exposure to the elements, [Chaz] wasn’t about to bin it. Instead, he embarked on a brave journey to breathe new life into the machine by swapping its dying brushed motor for a sleek brushless upgrade.

Things got real as [Chaz] dismantled the drill, comparing its guts to a salvaged portable bandsaw motor. What looked like an easy swap soon became a true hacker’s challenge: incompatible gear systems, dodgy windings, and warped laminations. Not discouraged by that, he dreamed up a hybrid solution: 3D-printing a custom adapter to make the brushless motor fit snugly into the existing housing.

The trickiest part was designing a speed control mechanism for the brushless motor—an impressively solved puzzle. After some serious elbow grease and ingenuity, the franken-drill emerged better than ever. We’ve seen some brushless hacks before, and this is worth adding to the list. A great tool hack and successful way to save an old beloved drill. Go ahead and check out the video below!

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Capacitor Decoupling Chaos, And Why You Should Abandon 100 NF

Everyone knows that the perfect capacitor to decouple the power rails around ICs is a 100 nF ceramic capacitor or equivalent, yet where does this ‘fact’ come from and is it even correct? These are the questions that [Graham] set out to answer once and for all. He starts with an in-depth exploration of the decoupling capacitor (and related) theory. [Graham] then dives into the way that power delivery is affected by the inherent resistance, capacitance, and inductance of traces. This is the problem that decoupling capacitors are supposed to solve.

Effectively, the decoupling capacitor provides a low-impedance path at high frequencies and a high-impedance path at low frequencies. Ideally, a larger value capacitor would be better, but since this is the real world and capacitors have ESL and ESR parameters, we get to look at impedance graphs. This is the part where we can see exactly what decoupling effect everyone’s favorite 100 nano-farad capacitors have, which as it turns out is pretty miserable.

Meanwhile, a 1 µF (ceramic) capacitor will have much better performance, as shown with impedance graphs for MLCC capacitors. As a rule of thumb, a single large decoupling capacitor is better, while two MLCC side-by-side can worsen noise. Naturally, one has to keep in mind that although ‘more capacity is better for decoupling’, there is still such a thing as ‘inrush current’ so don’t go too crazy with putting 1,000 µF decoupling capacitors everywhere.

Time-of-Flight Sensors: How Do They Work?

With the right conditions, this tiny sensor can measure 12 meters

If you need to measure a distance, it is tempting to reach for the ubiquitous ultrasonic module like an HC-SR04. These work well, and they are reasonably easy to use. However, they aren’t without their problems. So maybe try an IR time of flight sensor. These also work well, are reasonably easy to use, and have a different set of problems. I recently had a project where I needed such a sensor, and I picked up a TF-MiniS, which is a popular IR distance sensor. They aren’t very expensive, and they work serial or I2C. So how did it do?

The unit itself is tiny and has good specifications. You can fit the 42 x 15 x 16 mm module anywhere. It only weighs about five grams — as the manufacturer points out, less than two ping-pong balls. It needs 5 V but communicates using 3.3 V, so integration isn’t much of a problem.

At first glance, the range is impressive. You can read things as close as 10 cm and as far away as 12 m. I found this was a bit optimistic, though. Although the product sometimes gets the name of LiDAR, it doesn’t use a laser. It just uses an IR LED and some fancy optics.

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It’s A Doughnut, In Hardware

Making a physical doughnut is easy enough, given a good dough recipe and a nice hot deep fat fryer. But have you ever considered making a one in physical electronic hardware, on an ASIC? [A1k0n] has, at least in terms of making a virtual doughnut. It’s a hardware implementation of a ray tracer which renders a rotating doughnut to a VGA screen, and it comes courtesy of around 7000 logic cells on the latest iteration of Tiny Tapeout.

We will not pretend to be mathematical or ray tracing experts here at Hackaday so we won’t presume to explain in detail the circuitry, suffice to say that the clever hack here lies in a method using only shift and add operations rather than the complex trigonometry we might expect. It uses a slightly esoteric VGA mode to work with the device clock, so while CRT monitors have no problems it can have artifacts on an LCD. The full explanation goes into great detail, for the math heads among you.

We’ve reported on quite a few Tiny Tapeout projects over the years, as the many-ASICs-on-a-chip extends its capabilities.

Organizing Components, The Easy Way

There’s an old joke: What do you get someone who has everything? A place to put it. For hackers like [Christian], everything is a hoard of priceless electronic components. His solution is using small zipper bags, either regular plastic or anti-static. These attach using hook and loop fastener to plastic binder sheets which then live in a binder. Combined with some custom printed labels and a few other tricks, it makes for a nice system, as you can see in the video below.

Honestly, we’ve done something similar before, using a binder with little pockets, but the bag and custom labels beat our system. He even has QR codes on some of them to locate data sheets easily. Seems like a barcode for inventory management might have been good, too.

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Ball Nut Modification Charts A Middle Course Between Building And Buying

A lot of the projects we feature here on Hackaday engender the classic “build versus buy” argument. We’ve always been puzzled by that; if anyone can appreciate the sheer joy of making something rather than buying it, it should be our readers. But there’s something to be said for buying the stuff you can buy and concentrating your effort on the bespoke aspects of the project. It’s perhaps not as exciting, but needs must, oftentimes.

Let’s not forget there’s a third way though, which [Andy] explores with this ball nut modification project. Keen-eyed readers will recall [Andy]’s recent scratch-built ball screw build, in service of some top-secret, hush-hush project related to world domination and total subjugation of humanity. His homebrew efforts in this regard were a great lesson in how to machine a complex mechanism to work in a constrained space. Still, it left folks wondering why he’d go to all the trouble when he could have just trimmed an off-the-shelf part down to size. So, he decided to give that a try.

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