A 3D printer is in the process of printing a test piece. The printer has two horizontal linear rails at right angles to each other, with cylindrical metal rods mounted horizontally on the rails, so that the rods cross over the print bed. The print head slides along these rods.

An Open-Concept 3D Printer Using Cantilever Arms

If you’re looking for a more open, unenclosed 3D printer design than a cubic frame can accommodate, but don’t want to use a bed-slinger, you don’t have many options. [Boothy Builds] recently found himself in this situation, so he designed the Hi5, a printer that holds its hotend between two cantilevered arms.

The hotend uses bearings to slide along the metal arms, which themselves run along linear rails. The most difficult part of the design was creating the coupling between the guides that slides along the arms. It had to be rigid enough to position the hotend accurately and repeatably, but also flexible enough avoid binding. The current design uses springs to tension the bearings, though [Boothy Builds] eventually intends to find a more elegant solution. Three independent rails support the print bed, which lets the printer make small alterations to the bed’s tilt, automatically tramming it. Earlier iterations used CNC-milled bed supports, but [Boothy Builds] found that 3D printed plastic supports did a better job of damping out vibrations.

[Boothy Builds] notes that the current design puts the X and Y belts under considerable load, which sometimes causes them to slip, leading to occasional layer shifts and noise in the print. He acknowledges that the design still has room for improvement, but the design seems quite promising to us.

This printer’s use of cantilevered arms to support the print head puts it in good company with another interesting printer we’ve seen. Of course, that design element does also lend itself to the very cheapest of printers.

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A blue 3DBenchy is visible on a small circular plate extending up through a cutout in a flat, reflective surface. Above the Benchy is a roughly triangular metal 3D printer extruder, with a frost-covered ring around the nozzle. A label below the Benchy reads “2 MIN 03 SEC.”

Managing Temperatures For Ultrafast Benchy Printing

Commercial 3D printers keep getting faster and faster, but we can confidently say that none of them is nearly as fast as [Jan]’s Minuteman printer, so named for its goal of eventually printing a 3DBenchy in less than a minute. The Minuteman uses an air bearing as its print bed, feeds four streams of filament into one printhead for faster extrusion, and in [Jan]’s latest video, printed a Benchy in just over two minutes at much higher quality than previous two-minute Benchies.

[Jan] found that the biggest speed bottleneck was in cooling a layer quickly enough that it would solidify before the printer laid down the next layer. He was able to get his layer speed down to about 0.6-0.4 seconds per layer, but had trouble going beyond that. He was able to improve the quality of his prints, however, by varying the nozzle temperature throughout the print. For this he used [Salim BELAYEL]’s postprocessing script, which increases hotend temperature when volumetric flow rate is high, and decreases it when flow rate is low. This keeps the plastic coming out of the nozzle at an approximately constant temperature. With this, [Jan] could print quite good sub-four and sub-thee minute Benchies, with almost no print degradation from the five-minute version. [Jan] predicts that this will become a standard feature of slicers, and we have to agree that this could help even less speed-obsessed printers.

Now onto less generally-applicable optimizations: [Jan] still needed stronger cooling to get faster prints, so he designed a circular duct that directed a plane of compressed air horizontally toward the nozzle, in the manner of an air knife. This wasn’t quite enough, so he precooled his compressed air with dry ice. This made it both colder and denser, both of which made it a better coolant. The thermal gradient this produced in the print bed seemed to cause it to warp, making bed adhesion inconsistent. However, it did increase build quality, and [Jan]’s confident that he’s made the best two-minute Benchy yet.

If you’re curious about Minuteman’s motion system, we’ve previously looked at how that was built. Of course, it’s also possible to speed up prints by simply adding more extruders.

I Gotta Print More Cowbell

Since the earliest days of affordable, home 3D printers, the technology behind them has been continuously improving. From lowering costs, improving print quality, increasing size and detail, and diversifying the types of materials, it’s possible to get just about anything from a 3D printer today with a minimum of cost. Some of the things that printers can do now might even be surprising, like this upgrade that makes [Startup Chuck]’s 3D printer capable of printing realistic-sounding cowbells out of plastic.

The key to these metal-like prints is a filament called PPS-CF which is a carbon fiber-reinforced polyphenylene sulfide, or PPS. PPS-CF has a number of advantages over other plastics including high temperature tolerance and high dimensional stability, meaning its less likely to warp or deform even in harsh environments. But like anything with amazing upsides, there are some caveats to using this material. Not only does the carbon fiber require more durable extruder nozzles but PPS-CF also needs an extremely hot print head to extrude properly in addition to needing a heated bed. In [Startup Chuck]’s specific case he modified his print head to handle temperatures of 500°C and his print bed to around 100°C. This took a good bit of work just to supply it with enough energy to get to these temperatures and caused some other problems as well, like the magnet on the printer bed demagnetizing above around 75°C.

To get to a working cowbell took more than just printer upgrades, though. He had to go through a number of calibrations and test prints to dial in not only the ideal temperature settings of the printer but the best thicknesses for the cowbell itself so it would have that distinct metallic ring. But cowbells aren’t the only reason someone might want to print with carbon-reinforced materials. They have plenty of uses for automotive, chemical processing, high voltage, and aerospace applications and are attainable for home 3D printers. Just make sure to take some basic safety precautions first.

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Upgrade Your Filament Dryer With A Swiveling Filament Port

Many FDM filament dryers have a port through which you can guide the filament. This handy feature allows you to print from the spool without removing it from the dryer, saving time and limiting exposure to (moist) air. Unfortunately, these exit ports aren’t always thought out very well, mostly in terms of the angle with the spool as it unrolls. The resulting highly oblique orientation means a lot of friction of the filament on the side of the port. This issue is addressed in a recent [Teaching Tech] video, with a simple, low-cost solution.

The basic idea is to have a swiveling port, inspired by a spherical bearing. The design shown in the video uses a PC4-M6 pneumatic connector to pass the PTFE tube. Connector choice is critical here, as many PC4-M6 pneumatic connectors won’t accommodate the PTFE.  As a fallback, you can drill out a connector to enable this.

Once the connector is sorted, you need a 13 mm (~0.5″) step drill bit to widen the opening in the filament dryer. This ready-to-print version has 10 degrees of freedom in any direction, but you can adapt it to fit your needs. With this mod installed, the angle with which the filament enters the port should remain as close to zero as possible, preventing both friction and damage to the port and filament.

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RC rover/car with red and yellow-sided wheels. Electronics are visible on top of vehicle.

An RC Car Driven With Old 3D Printer Motors

With the newer generation of quick and reliable 3D printers, we find ourselves with the old collecting dust and cobwebs. You might pull it out for an emergency print, that is if it still works… In the scenario of an eternally resting printer (or ones not worth reviving), trying to give new life to the functional parts is a great idea. This is exactly what [MarkMakies] did with a simple RC rover design from an old Makerbot Replicator clone. 

Using a stepper motor to directly drive each wheel, this rover proves its ability to handle a variety of terrain types. Stepper motors are far from the most common way to drive an RC vehicle, but they can certainly give enough power. Controlling these motors is done from a custom protoboard, allowing the use of RC control. Securing all these parts together only requires a couple of 3D printed parts and the rods used to print them. Throw in a drill battery for power, and you can take it nearly anywhere! 

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Red and black grabber combat robot

Step Into Combat Robotics With Project SVRN!

We all love combat robotics for its creative problem solving; trying to fit drivetrains and weapon systems in a small and light package is never as simple as it appears to be. When you get to the real lightweights… throw everything you know out the window! [Shoverobotics] saw this as a barrier for getting into the 150g weight class, so he created the combat robotics platform named Project SVRN.

You want 4-wheel drive? It’s got it! Wedge or a Grabber? Of course! Anything else you can imagine? Feel free to add and modify the platform to your heart’s content! Controlled by a Malenki Nano, a receiver and motor controller combo board, the SVRN platform allows anyone to get into fairyweight fights with almost no experience.

With 4 N10 motors giving quick control, the platform acts as an excellent platform for various bot designs. Though the electronics and structure are rather simple, the most important and impressive part of Project SVRN is the detailed documentation for every part of building the bot. You can find and follow the documentation yourself from [Shoverobotics]’s Printables page here!

If you already know every type of coil found in your old Grav-Synthesized Vex-Flux from your Whatsamacallit this might not be needed for you, but many people trying to get into making need a ramp to shoot for the stars. For those needing more technical know-how in combat robotics, check out Kitten Mittens, a bot that uses its weapon for locomotion!

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Building An Automatic Wire Stripper And Cutter

Stripping and cutting wires can be a tedious and repetitive part of your project. To save time in this regard, [Red] built an automatic stripper and cutter to do the tiring work for him.

An ESP32 runs the show in this build. Via a set of A4988 stepper motor drivers, it controls two NEMA 17 stepper motors which control the motion of the cutting and stripping blades via threaded rods. A third stepper controls a 3D printer extruder to move wires through the device. There’s a rotary encoder with a button for controlling the device, with cutting and stripping settings shown on a small OLED display. It graphically represents the wire for stripping, so you can select the length of the wire and how much insulation you want stripped off each end. You merely need select the measurements on the display, press a button, and the machine strips and cuts the wire for you. The wires end up in a tidy little 3D-printed bin for collection.

The build should be a big time saver for [Red], who will no longer have to manually cut and strip wires for future builds. We’ve featured some other neat wire stripper builds before, too. Video after the break.

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