More Details On Why DeepSeek Is A Big Deal

The DeepSeek large language models (LLM) have been making headlines lately, and for more than one reason. IEEE Spectrum has an article that sums everything up very nicely.

We shared the way DeepSeek made a splash when it came onto the AI scene not long ago, and this is a good opportunity to go into a few more details of why this has been such a big deal.

For one thing, DeepSeek (there’s actually two flavors, -V3 and -R1, more on them in a moment) punches well above its weight. DeepSeek is the product of an innovative development process, and freely available to use or modify. It is also indirectly highlighting the way companies in this space like to label their LLM offerings as “open” or “free”, but stop well short of actually making them open source.

The DeepSeek-V3 LLM was developed in China and reportedly cost less than 6 million USD to train. This was possible thanks to developing DualPipe, a highly optimized and scalable method of training the system despite limitations due to export restrictions on Nvidia hardware. Details are in the technical paper for DeepSeek-V3.

There’s also DeepSeek-R1, a chain-of-thought “reasoning” model which handily provides its thought process enclosed within easily-parsed <think> and </think> pseudo-tags that are included in its responses. A model like this takes an iterative step-by-step approach to formulating responses, and benefits from prompts that provide a clear goal the LLM can aim for. The way DeepSeek-R1 was created was itself novel. Its training started with supervised fine-tuning (SFT) which is a human-led, intensive process as a “cold start” which eventually handed off to a more automated reinforcement learning (RL) process with a rules-based reward system. The result avoided problems that come from relying too much on RL, while minimizing the human effort of SFT. Technical details on the process of training DeepSeek-R1 are here.

DeepSeek-V3 and -R1 are freely available in the sense that one can access the full-powered models online or via an app, or download distilled models for local use on more limited hardware. It is free and open as in accessible, but not open source because not everything needed to replicate the work is actually released. Like with most LLMs, the training data and actual training code used are not available.

What is released and making waves of its own are the technical details of how researchers produced what they did, and that means there are efforts to try to make an actually open source version. Keep an eye out for Open-R1!

Winter-Proof (And Improve) Your Resin 3D Printing

Was your 3D printer working fine over the summer, and now it’s not? With colder temperatures comes an overall surge in print failure reports — particularly with resin-based printers that might reside in outbuildings, basements, or garages. If you think this applies to you, don’t miss [Jan Mrázek]’s tips on improving cold-weather print results. His tips target the main reasons prints fail, helping to make the process a little more resilient overall. [Jan]’s advice is the product of long experience and experimentation, so don’t miss out.

With environmental changes comes the possibility that things change just enough to interfere with layers forming properly. The most beneficial thing overall is to maintain a consistent resin temperature; between 22 and 30 degrees Celsius is optimal. A resin heater is one solution, and there are many DIY options using simple parts. Some of the newer (and more expensive) printers have heaters built in, but most existing hobbyist machines do not.

An extreme case of blooming.

Temperature control isn’t the only thing, either. Layer formation and build plate adhesion can all be improved by adding rest times between layers. Yes, this increases print time. It also allows resin to settle before the next layer, improving adhesion and preventing blooming (a rough texture caused by an imperfect cure.) Since resin flows less readily at lower temperatures, rest times can help improve results. The best setting depends heavily on your particular setup, so [Jan] gives tips on finding optimal rest times.

Most common knowledge and advice from well-meaning communities online focuses on increasing exposure time or blaming the build plate. [Jan] feels that these are ultimately the wrong way to go about addressing failures. Usually, an environmental change (like the arrival of winter) has simply pushed a printer that was not optimized in the first place outside of its narrow comfort zone. A little optimization can set things back on track, making the printer more resilient and reliable overall.

Handy Online Metric Screw, Nut, And Washer Generator

For those times when you could really use a quick 3D model, this metric screw generator will do the trick for screws between M2 and M16 with matching nuts and washers. Fastener hardware is pretty accessible, but one never knows when a 3D printed piece will hit the spot. One might even be surprised what can be usefully printed on a decent 3D printer at something like 0.08 mm layer height.

Behind the scenes, [Jason]’s tool is an OpenSCAD script with a very slick web-based interface that allows easy customization of just about any element one might need to adjust, including fine-tuning the thread sizing. We’re fans of OpenSCAD here and appreciate what’s going on behind the scenes, but one doesn’t need to know anything about it to use the online tool.

Generated models can be downloaded as .3mf or .stl, but if you really need a CAD model you’re probably best off looking up a part and downloading the matching 3D model from a supplier like McMaster-Carr.

Prefer to just use the OpenSCAD script yourself, instead of the web interface? Select “Download STL/CAD Files” from the dropdown of the project page to download ScrewGenerator.scad for local use, and you’re off to the races.

RGB LED Display Simply Solves The Ping-Pong Ball Problem

A few years ago [Brian McCafferty] created a nice big RGB LED panel in a poster frame that aimed to be easy to move, program, and display. We’d like to draw particular attention to one of his construction methods. On the software end of things there are multiple ways to get images onto a DIY RGB panel, but his assembly technique is worth keeping in mind.

The diameter of ping pong balls is a mismatch for the spacing of LEDs on a strip. The solution? A bit of force.

The technique we want to highlight is not the fact that he used table tennis balls as the diffusers, but rather the particular manner in which he used them. As diffusers, ping-pong balls are economical and they’re effective. But you know what else they are? An inconvenient size!

An LED strip with 30 LEDs per meter puts individual LEDs about 33 mm apart. A regulation ping-pong ball is 40 mm in diameter, making them just a wee bit too big to fit nicely. We’ve seen projects avoid this problem with modular frames that optimize spacing and layout. But [Brian]’s solution was simply to use force.

Observing that ping-pong balls don’t put up much of a fight and the size mismatch was relatively small, he just shoved those (slightly squashy) 40 mm globes into 33 mm spacing. It actually looks… perfectly fine!

We suspect that this method doesn’t scale indefinitely. Probably large displays like this 1200 pixel wall are not the right place to force a square peg into a round hole, but it sure seemed to hit the spot for his poster-sized display. Watch it in action in the video below, or see additional details on the project’s GitHub repository.

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DIY Probe Clamps To Ease Your PCB Work

Those of us familiar with PCB work would agree that anything that helps hold probes secure and hands-free to components, traces, or test points is worth looking at. That’s where [2048bits]’ snap probe design comes in. With a little additional and inexpensive hardware, one can have all the hands-free probe clamps one’s workbench can fit!

That first link is where you’ll find a list of required hardware and the CAD files (in .step format) for the probe itself. The obvious approach to making the pieces would be to 3D print them, but we notice the design — while attractive — looks like a challenging print due to the features. We’re not the only ones to see that, and happily there’s already a remix by [user_2299476772] aimed at keeping the essential features while making them easier to print.

If you’re taking a DIY approach to PCB probes, we’d like to remind you that one of our readers discovered dental burrs make absolutely fantastic, non-slip probe tips. This seems like a good opportunity to combine two ideas, and having the CAD files for the probe clamp means modification is straightforward. Let us know on the tips line if you get something working!

[via Hackster]

3D Print Stamps, And Ink Stuff To Your Heart’s Content With These Tips

Ink stamps can be fun to make and use, and 3D printers are uniquely positioned to create quality stamps of all kinds with just a little care. As with most things, the devil is in the details and the best results will require some extra work. Luckily, [Prusa] has a blog post that goes through how to 3D print the best stamps and includes concrete recommendations and tips to get the most out of the process.

Resin printers can create stamps too, just ensure a flexible material is used.

What makes a good 3D-printed stamp? It should be easy to use, transfer an image cleanly, and retain ink reasonably well. To hit these bases, printing the stamp face out of a flexible material is probably the most important, but a flat and smooth stamp surface is equally crucial. Satin-finish build plates will give a weathered look to the stamp, but textured build plates in general are no good.

As for the design, turning an image into a 3D object can be a bit challenging for novices, but there are tools that make that much easier now than it used to be. Some slicers allow importing .svg files (scalable vector graphics) with which to emboss or deboss objects, and online tools as well as free software like Inkscape will let folks covert images into .svg format.

Flexible filaments tend to be stringy so they should be dried before use, especially if the stamp design has a lot of separate elements that invite stringing. Any flex filament should do the job, but of course some specific filament brands perform better than others. Check out the full blog post for specific recommendations.

Pausing a print and inserting a pre-printed support piece (removed after the print completes) helps form big overhangs.

The remaining tricky element is that flexible filaments also tend to be poor at bridging, and if one is printing a stamp face-down on the build plate (to get that important, ultra-flat face) then the upper inside of the stamp may need some support for it to come out right. As [Prusa] suggests, this is a good place to use a manual, drop-in pre-printed support piece. Or if one has the ability to print in multiple materials, perhaps print the support structure in PLA since it is just about the only material that won’t completely weld itself to flex filaments. Of course, if one is designing the stamp entirely in CAD, then the best option would be to chamfer the stamp elements so supports aren’t necessary in the first place. Finally, don’t overlook the value of a physical design that makes handling easy and attractive.

Since 3D printing makes iteration so fast and easy, maybe it would be worth using this to revisit using rubber stamps to help create PCBs?

Prompt Injection Tricks AI Into Downloading And Executing Malware

[wunderwuzzi] demonstrates a proof of concept in which a service that enables an AI to control a virtual computer (in this case, Anthropic’s Claude Computer Use) is made to download and execute a piece of malware that successfully connects to a command and control (C2) server. [wonderwuzzi] makes the reasonable case that such a system has therefore become a “ZombAI”. Here’s how it worked.

Referring to the malware as a “support tool” and embedding instructions into the body of the web page is what got the binary downloaded and executed, compromising the system.

After setting up a web page with a download link to the malicious binary, [wunderwuzzi] attempts to get Claude to download and run the malware. At first, Claude doesn’t bite. But that all changes when the content of the HTML page gets rewritten with instructions to download and execute the “Support Tool”. That new content gets interpreted as orders to follow; being essentially a form of prompt injection.

Claude dutifully downloads the malicious binary, then autonomously (and cleverly) locates the downloaded file and even uses chmod to make it executable before running it. The result? A compromised machine.

Now, just to be clear, Claude Computer Use is experimental and this sort of risk is absolutely and explicitly called out in Anthropic’s documentation. But what’s interesting here is that the methods used to convince Claude to compromise the system it’s using are essentially the same one might take to convince a person. Make something nefarious look innocent, and obfuscate the true source (and intent) of the directions. Watch it in action from beginning to end in a video, embedded just under the page break.

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