Printed Robotic Arm Pumps Up With Brushless Motors

[JesseDarr] recently wrote in to tell us about their dynamic Arm for Robitc Mischief (dARM), a mostly 3D printed six degrees of freedom (6DOF) robotic arm that’s designed to be stronger and more capable than what we’ve seen so far from the DIY community.

The secret? Rather than using servos, dARM uses brushless DC (BLDC) motors paired with ODrive S1 controllers. He credits [James Bruton] and [Skyentific] (two names which regular Hackaday readers are likely familiar with) for introducing him to not only the ODrive controllers, but the robotics applications for BLDCs in the first place.

dARM uses eight ODrive controllers on a CAN bus, which ultimately connect up to a Raspberry Pi 4B with a RS485 CAN Hat. The controllers are connected to each other in a daisy chain using basic twisted pair wire, which simplifies the construction and maintenance of the modular arm.

As for the motors themselves, the arm uses three different types depending on where they are located, with three Eaglepower 8308 units for primary actuators, a pair of GB36-2 motors in the forearm, and finally a GM5208-24 for the gripper. Together, [JesseDarr] says the motors and gearboxes are strong enough to lift a 5 pound (2.2 kilogram) payload when extended in a horizontal position.

The project’s documentation includes assembly instructions for the printed parts, a complete Bill of Materials, and guidance on how to get the software environment setup on the Raspberry Pi. It’s not exactly a step-by-step manual, but it looks like there’s more than enough information here for anyone who’s serious about building a dARM for themselves.

If you’d like to start off by putting together something a bit easier, we’ve seen considerably less intimidating robotic arms that you might be interested in.

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Atomic Clock Trades Receiver For An ESP8266

The advantage of a radio-controlled clock that receives the time signal from WWVB is that you never have to set it again. Whether it’s a little digital job on your desk, or some big analog wall clock that’s hard to access, they’ll all adjust themselves as necessary to keep perfect time. But what if the receiver conks out on you?

Well, you’d still have a clock. But you’d have to set it manually like some kind of Neanderthal. That wasn’t acceptable to [jim11662418], so after he yanked the misbehaving WWVB receiver from his clock, he decided to replace it with an ESP8266 that could connect to the Internet and get the current time via Network Time Protocol (NTP).

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Fiber Laser Gives DIY PCBs A Professional Finish

While low-cost professional PCB fabrication has largely supplanted making circuit boards at home, there’s still something to be said for being able to go from design to prototype in an afternoon. Luckily we aren’t limited to the old toner transfer trick for DIY boards these days, as CNC routers and powerful lasers can be used to etch boards quickly and accurately.

But there’s still a problem — those methods leave you with a board that has exposed traces. That might work in a pinch for a one-off, but such boards are prone to shorts, and frankly just don’t look very good. Which is why [Mikey Sklar] has been experimenting with applying both a soldermask and silkscreen to his homemade boards.

The process he describes starts after the board has already been etched. First he rolls on the soldermask, and then sandwiches the board between layers of transparency film and clear acrylic before curing it under a UV light. After two coats of the soldermask, the board goes into a fiber laser and the silkscreen and mask layers are loaded into the software and the machine is set to a relatively low power (here, 40%). The trick is that the mask layer is set to run four times versus the single run of the silkscreen, which ensures that the copper is fully exposed.

Since the board doesn’t need to be moved between operations, you don’t have to worry about the registration being off. The end result really does look quite nice, with the silkscreen especially popping visually a lot more than we would have assumed.

We’ve previously covered how [Mikey] uses his CNC router and fiber laser to cut out and etch the boards, so this latest installment brings the whole thing full circle. The equipment you’ll need to follow along at home isn’t cheap, but we can’t argue with the final results.

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Command And Conquer Ported To The Pi Pico 2

A couple of months back, Electronic Arts did something uncharacteristically benevolent and released several of the old Command and Conquer games under the GPLv3. Logically, we knew that opened the doors up to the games being ported to new operating systems and architectures, but we admit that it was still a little surprising to see Command and Conquer: Red Alert running on the Raspberry Pi Pico 2.

[Charlie Birks] documented the process of getting the 1996 game up and running on the microcontroller in a series of Mastodon posts spanning a few days in March. Seeing the incremental progress made each day makes for interesting reading, as he moves from the game just barely starting up to being able to complete missions and eventually even get multiplayer going between two Picos.

As [Charlie] clarifies, he’s technically using the Pimoroni Pico Plus 2 W, which takes the RP2350B from the official Pico 2, adds 8 MB of PSRAM, and bumps the onboard flash to 16 MB. The upgraded specs and an SD card are required to get the game running, as content that would have originally been held in RAM on the computer must instead be pulled from flash.

For an even more streamlined experience, he eventually slaps the Pico Plus 2 W into the Pimoroni Pico VGA Demo Base — which provided not only an integrated SD card slot, but (as the name implies) VGA output.

It’s still early days, but [Charlie] has been pushing all of his code changes into his fork of Red Alert on GitHub for anyone who wants to play along at home. If you get his fork compiled and running on your own Pico, we’d love to hear about it in the comments.

Reverse Engineering The IBM PC110, One PCB At A Time

There’s a dedicated group of users out there that aren’t ready to let their beloved IBM PC110 go to that Great Big Data Center in the Sky. Unfortunately, between the limited available technical information and rarity of replacement parts, repairing the diminutive palmtops can be tricky.

Which is why [Ahmad Byagowi] has started a project that aims to not only collect all the available schematics and datasheets that pertain to the machine, but to reverse engineer all of the computer’s original circuit boards. Working from optical and x-ray scans, the project has already recreated the motherboard, power supply, modem, keyboard, and RAM module PCBs in KiCad.

Just last week the project released production-ready Gerbers for all the boards, but considering there have been 45+ commits to the repository since then, we’re going to assume they weren’t quite finalized. Of course, with a project of this magnitude, you’d expect it to take a few revisions to get everything right. (Hell, we’ve managed to screw up board layouts that had fewer than a dozen components on them.)

If you’d like to lend a hand, [Ahmad] says he could use the help. Beyond checking the boards for problems and reporting issues, he’s also on the hunt for any datasheets or other documentation that can be found for the PC110 or its components. It looks like there’s still schematic work that needs to be done as well, so if your idea of zen is figuring out how ~30 year old computers were wired up internally, this might be the perfect summer project for you.

Interestingly, our very own [Arya Voronova] has been working on creating a drop-in replacement motherboard for the Sony Vaio P using KiCad and imported board images. That hobbyists are now able to do this kind of work using free and open source tools is a reminder of just how far things have come in the last few years.

Thanks to [adistuder] for the tip.

A Very Trippy Look At Microsoft’s Beginnings

It’s not often you’ll see us singing the praises of Microsoft on these pages, but credit where credit is due, this first-person account of how the software giant got its foot in the proverbial door by Bill Gates himself is pretty slick.

Now it’s not the story that has us excited, mind you. It’s the website itself. As you scroll down the page, the text and images morph around in a very pleasing and retro-inspired way. Running your cursor over the text makes it flip through random ASCII characters, reminding us a bit of the “decryption” effect from Sneakers. Even the static images have dithering applied to them as if they’re being rendered on some ancient piece of hardware. We don’t know who’s doing Billy’s web design, but we’d love to have them come refresh our Retro Edition.

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Handheld 18650 Analyzer Scopes Out Salvaged Cells

You can salvage lithium 18650 cells from all sorts of modern gadgets, from disposable vapes to cordless power tools. The tricky part, other than physically liberating them from whatever they are installed in, is figuring out if they’re worth keeping or not. Just because an 18650 cell takes a charge doesn’t necessarily mean it’s any good — it could have vastly reduced capacity, or fail under heavy load.

If you’re going to take salvaging these cells seriously, you should really invest in a charger that is capable of running some capacity tests against the cell. Or if you’re a bit more adventurous, you can build this “Battery Health Monitor” designed by [DIY GUY Chris]. Although the fact that it can only accept a single cell at a time is certainly a limitation if you’ve got a lot of batteries to go though, the fact that it’s portable and only needs a USB-C connection for power means you can take it with you on your salvaging adventures.

The key to this project is a pair of chips from Texas Instruments. The BQ27441 is a “Fuel Gauge” IC, and is able to determine an 18650’s current capacity, which can be compared to the cell’s original design capacity to come up with an estimate of its overall health. The other chip, the BQ24075, keeps an eye on all the charging parameters to make sure the cell is being topped up safely and efficiently.

With these two purpose-built chips doing a lot of the heavy lifting, it only takes a relatively simple microcontroller to tie them together and provide user feedback. In this case [DIY GUY Chris] has gone with the ATmega328P, with a pair of addressable WS2812B LED bars to show the battery’s health and charge levels. As an added bonus, if you plug the device into your computer, it will output charging statistics over the serial port.

The whole project is released under the MIT license, and everything from the STL files for the 3D printed enclosure to the MCU’s Arduino-flavored firmware is provided. If you’re looking to build one yourself, you can either follow along with the step-by-step assembly instructions, or watch the build video below. Or really treat yourself and do both — you deserve it.

If your battery salvaging operation is too large for a single-cell tester, perhaps it’s time to upgrade to this 40-slot wall mounted unit.

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