A man's hand is shown holding a color photograph of a vase of flowers against a black background.

True-Spectrum Photography With Structural Color

Although modern cameras can, with skill and good conditions, produce photographs nearly indistinguishable from the original scene, this fidelity relies on the limitations of human vision. According to the trichromatic theory, humans perceive light as a mixture of three colors, which can be recorded and represented by cameras, displays, and color printing; a spectrometer, however, can detect a clear distance between the three colors present in a photograph and the wide range of spectra in the original scene. By contrast, one of the earliest color photography methods, Lippmann plates, captured not just true color, but true spectra.

A Lippmann plate, as [Jon Hilty] details, starts with a layer of photographic gel containing extremely fine silver halide crystals over the back of a glass plate. This layer is placed on top of a mirror, traditionally a mercury bath, and put in the camera. When light passes through the emulsion and reflects off the mirror, it interferes with incoming light to create a standing wave. The portions of the emulsion at the wave’s antinodes absorb the most energy, converting local silver halide crystals into reflective silver. The spacing of the silver particles depends on the incoming light’s wavelength, and is fixed in place during the development process.

This creates a matrix of vertically-stacked diffraction gratings, each diffracting back the original wavelength when illuminated with white light. Unlike normal diffraction gratings, the wavelength of diffracted light doesn’t depend strongly on the viewing angle; since the interference structure here is vertically-arranged, it refracts a narrow range of wavelengths across all possible viewing angles. The viewing angles, however, are limited; unlike with dye-based photographs, you can only view the colors nearly straight-on. This, along with the necessity for long exposures, the chance of producing washed-out colors, and the impossibility of creating reprints, kept Lippmann plates from ever really catching on. The basic concept lives on in holograms, which encode spatial information in a similar kind of photographically-formed diffraction pattern.

For a more conventional method of color photography, we’ve also seen a recreation of the autochrome method. Alternatively, check out this homemade silver halide photography emulsion.

Thanks to [Stephen Walters] for the tip!

Matching Transistors

Transistors in some circuit configurations work together and, frequently, need to be matched. This is so common that you can sometimes find ICs that are just a pair of transistors made with the same piece of silicon, so they should be matched very closely by default. But with discrete transistors, two devices of the same type are not always identical. [Learn Electronics Repair] covers the topic and explains how to match devices in the video below.

Depending on the circuit, the matching parameters may be different, but generally, the idea is that you want similar gains or matching saturation characteristics. The reason is that when you have multiple transistors working together, you don’t want one to do more work than the other device. This is inefficient and could drive the “better” component to fail.

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Peripherals Hacks

Custom peripheral projects are among the most rewarding. Especially if you’re like me and you sit at the computer eight hours per day, anything that you can use on a daily basis is super satisfying. This topic of DIY peripherals came up on the podcast while chatting with Kristina, who is no stranger to odd inputs herself.

We were talking about a trackball that had been modified to read twisting gestures, by a clever hijacking of the twin mouse sensors inside. If you do a lot of 3D modeling, you can absolutely get by with just a mouse and shift-ctrl-alt as modifiers, but it’s so much more immediate to use a dedicated 3D input device. (I’ve got an ancient serial Space Mouse just under my left hand as I type this.)

My old favorite, which I haven’t used in ages, is the guts of a 5” hard-drive platter stack that I turned into a scroll wheel. Unfortunately, I don’t have space for it on my desk anymore, but it was just so pleasing to scroll through a document with something that had some real chonky momentum to it.

And it’s easier than ever to make your own. The classic blocky macropad is a great introduction, but as long as you’re doing the design yourself, why not extend it, or at least make it fit your hand? Or take your flights of fancy even further away from the mainstream. Consider the Bluetooth mouse ring, for instance.

Point is, the software side of almost any peripheral device you can imagine is sorted out already, and interfacing with the hardware is equally simple. Peripheral hacks have such a low barrier to entry, but afford so many creative hardware possibilities. And nothing says “Jedi” like building your own lightsaber.

Adapting A 100-Year-Old Lens To A Modern Camera

You can get all kinds of fancy lenses for modern cameras, with all sorts of mechanical and electronic wizardly to make them shoot better images. But what if you paired a vintage lens with a modern camera? It would take some work, as [Mathieu] found out, but you’d also get some interesting results.

The optic in question is a 100-year old lens—a Foth 50 mm f2.5 to be precise, originally used with a folding film camera. It was sourced from a market for just 3 euros. Notably, the lens was not designed for modern cameras, and so lacks an aperture and focusing mechanism. [Mathieu] thus had to fabricate something to fit the lens to a Sony FX3. A first attempt used an aperture adapter from Amazon and an elcoid adapter, but there were vignetting problems due to the lens placement in this case. Ultimately, [Mathieu] went with a special macro adapter that allowed him to control focus and tuck in an ND filter behind the lens, which made up for the lack of an aperture.

The vintage glass isn’t the sharpest lens out there, but that’s kind of what’s fantastic about it. The center of the frame is certainly focused, but it fades out softly towards the edges of the image, giving a cinematic, dreamlike effect. The bokeh in the background are particularly charming, too. As far as 3 euro lenses go, this one was a hit.

You can slap just about any lens on anything if you get creative with how you do it. Video after the break.

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Analog Circuitry Lets You Blow This LED Out

LED candles are neat, but they’re very suboptimal for wish-making: you can’t blow them out. Unless you take the circuit from [Andrea Console]’s latest project that lets you do just that, using only analog electronics— no microcontroller in sight.

He’s using the known temperature-voltage behaviour of the LED for control here– sort of like the project we saw in last year’s Component Abuse Challenge that let you illuminate the LED with a butane lighter. Here it’s a bit less dramatic, relying only on the small cooling effect your breath has on the LED.

There are two parts to the circuit, really– a latching section to turn the thing on from a single button press, and breath-detecting section. The breath-detecting section relies on an op-amp acting as a comparator, comparing the voltage across the LED’s current-limiting resistor, and a reference stored in a 100 µF capacitor. Blowing on the candle spikes the voltage on the LED, and thus the current-limiting resistor too fast for the capacitor’s voltage to change, so the comparator flips, triggering a reset of the latching circuit. Could you do it with an Arduino? No doubt, but the fact is you don’t have to and this is a more elegant solution than just another microcontroller.Check it out in action with the video embedded below.

It reminds us of the sort of circuit we’d have found in a project book, back in the day. [Andrea] seems to have a knack for that sort of thing, as seen with the half crystal/half regenerative radio we saw previously. Continue reading “Analog Circuitry Lets You Blow This LED Out”

A Tale Of Cheap Hard Drives And Expensive Lessons

When it comes to electronic gadgets, I’m a sucker for a good deal. If it’s got a circuit board on the inside and a low enough price tag on the outside, you can be pretty sure I’ll be taking it home with me. So a few years ago, when I saw USB external hard drives on the shelf of a national discount chain for just $10, I couldn’t resist picking one up. What I didn’t realize at the time however, was that I’d be getting more in the bargain than just some extra storage space.

It’s a story that I actually hadn’t thought of for some time — it only came to mind recently after reading about how the rising cost of computer components has pushed more users to the secondhand market than ever before. That makes the lessons from this experience, for both the buyer and the seller, particularly relevant.

What’s in the Box?

It wasn’t just the low price that attracted me to these hard drives, it was also the stated capacity. They were listed as 80 GB, which is an unusually low figure to see on a box in 2026. Obviously nobody is making 80 GB drives these days, so given the price, my first thought was that it would contain a jerry-rigged USB flash drive. But if that was the case, you would expect the capacity to be some power of two.

Upon opening up the case, what I found inside was somehow both surprising and incredibly obvious. The last thing I expected to see was an actual spinning hard drive, but only because I lacked the imagination of whoever put this product together. I was thinking in terms of newly manufactured, modern, hardware. Instead, this drive was nearly 20 years old, and must have been available for pennies on the dollar since they were presumably just collecting dust in a warehouse somewhere.

Or at least, that’s what I assumed. After all, surely nobody would have the audacity to take a take a bunch of ancient used hard drives and repackage them as new products…right?

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Need A Reactalyser?

We’ve noticed a recent surge in people recreating old projects from vintage electronics magazines, and we approve. After all, parts and PCBs are easier to get than ever, so other than replacing obsolete parts, it is usually much easier to build these projects now compared to when they first appeared. The latest one we’ve noticed was [Anthony Francis-Jones’] build of the “Reactalyser” from a 1968 edition of Practical Electronics. Check it out in the video below.

You may ask yourself what a reactalyser could be. We did too. Our guess was extremely far off, since we thought it might have to do with reactance.

We liked the retro-look radio that [Anthony] used as a case. He changed the circuit to use an OC71 PNP transistor and replaced a mechanical part of the device with more electronics. So this isn’t a totally faithful reproduction, but it does keep the spirit of the device.

This might seem like an odd circuit for something that would be totally trivial to make with a microcontroller. However, these kinds of circuits were very common prior to simple-to-use computers.

If you like these old retro builds, check out some of the ones we’ve featured from [Bettina Neumryr]. We need a name for this activity. We’ll suggest retromagging. Give us your entry in the comments. Continue reading “Need A Reactalyser?”