Have You Ever Used A Tick Stick?

Picture this: you have an irregular opening you need to fabricate a piece to fill. Maybe it’s the stonework of a fireplace; maybe it’s the curved bulkhead of a ship. How do you get that shape? The most “Hackaday” answer would be to 3D scan the area, create a CAD model based on the point cloud, and route the shape with CNC. Of course, none of those were options for the entirety of human history. So how do you do it if you don’t have such high-tech toys? With a stick, as [Essential Craftsman] takes great pains to show us in the video below.

It’s not just any stick, of course. Call it a “tick stick”, a “speil stick”, or a “joggle stick” — whatever you call it, it’s just an irregularly shaped piece of wood. The irregular shape is key to the whole process. How you use it is simple: get some kind of storyboard — cardboard, MDF, whatever — that fits inside your irregular void. Thanks to the magic of the stick, it need not fit flush to the edges of the hole. You put the tick stick on the storyboard, press the pointy end against a reference point on the side of the hole, and trace the stick. The irregular shape means you’re going to be able to get that reference point back exactly later. Number the outline you just made, and rinse and repeat until you’ve got a single-plane “point cloud” made of tick stick outlines.

Your storyboard is probably going to look mighty confusing, but that’s what the numbers are for. Bring your storyboard and your tick stick onto the workbench and whatever you want to cut out– plywood, cardboard, 1/4″ steel armor plate, you name it–and simply repeat the process. Put the tick stick inside outline #1 and mark where the pointy end lands on the material. Then do it again for the other outlines, reproducing the points you measured on the original piece. After that, it’s just a game of ‘connect the dots’ and cutting with whatever methodology works for your substrate. A sharp knife will work for cardboard, but you’ll probably want something more substantial for steel plate.

It’s not often you’re going to need the tick stick– the [Craftsman] reports only needing it a few times over the course of a decades-long career, but when you need it, there’s not much else that will do the job. Well, unless you have a 3D scanner handy, that is. Continue reading “Have You Ever Used A Tick Stick?”

Sliderule Simulator Teaches You How To Do Calculations The Old Fashioned Way

Ever wanted to know how engineers made their calculations before digital calculators were on every workbench? [Richard Carpenter] and [Robert Wolf] have just the thing—a sliderule simulator that can teach you how to do a whole bunch of complex calculations the old fashioned way!

The simulator is a digital recreation of the Hemmi/Post 1460 Versalog slide rule. This was a particularly capable tool that was sold from 1951 to 1975 and is widely regarded as one of the best slide rules ever made. It can do all kinds of useful calculations for you just by sliding the scales and the cursor appropriately, from square roots to trigonometry to exponents and even multi-stage multiplication and divisions.

You can try the simulator yourself in a full-screen window here. It’s written in JavaScript and runs entirely in the browser. If you’ve never used a slide rule before, you might be lost as you drag the center slide and cursor around. Fear not, though. The simulator actually shows you how to use it. You can tap in an equation, and the simulator will both spit out a list of instructions to perform the calculation and animate it on the slide rule itself. There are even a list of “lessons” and “tests” that will teach you how to use the device and see if you’ve got the techniques down pat. It’s the sort of educational tool that would have been a great boon to budding engineers in the mid-20th century. With that said, most of them managed to figure it out with the paper manuals on their own, anyway.

We’ve featured other guides on how to use this beautiful, if archaic calculation technology, too. We love to see this sort of thing, so don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline if you’ve found a way to bring the slide rule back to relevance in the modern era!

Thanks to [Stephen Walters] for the tip!

180 Shots On A Roll With The Little Stupid Camera

If you want to play with the coolest kids on the block when it comes to photography, you have to shoot film. Or so say the people who shoot film, anyway. It is very true though that the chemical medium has its own quirks and needs a bit of effort in a way digital cameras don’t, so it can be a lot of fun to play with.

It’s expensive though — film ain’t cheap, and if you don’t develop yourself there’s an extra load of cash. What if you could get more photos on a roll? It’s something [Japhy Riddle] took to extremes, creating a fifth-frame 35mm camera in which each shot is a fifth the size of the full frame.

The focal plane of a 35mm camera with tape masking most of the frame
We’re slightly worried about that much sticky tape next to the shutter, but hey.

Standard 35mm still film has a 24x36mm frame, in modern terms not far off the size of a full-size SD card. A standard roll of film gives you 36 exposures. There are half-frame cameras that split that frame vertically to give 72 exposures, but what he’s done is make a quarter-frame camera.

It’s a simple enough hack, electrical tape masking the frame except for a vertical strip in the middle, but perhaps the most interesting part is how he winds the film along by a quarter frame. 35mm cameras have a take-up reel, you wind the film out of the cartridge bit by bit into it with each shot, and then rewind the whole lot back into the cartridge at the end. He’s wound the film into the take-up reel and it winding it back a quarter frame at a time using the rewind handle, for which we are guessing he also needs a means to cock the shutter that doesn’t involve the frame advance lever.

We like the hack, though we would be worried about adhesive tape anywhere near the shutter blind on an SLR camera. It delivers glorious widescreen at the cost of a bit of resolution, but as an experimental camera it’s in the best tradition. This is one to hack into an unloved 1970s snapshot camera for the Shitty Camera Challenge!

Continue reading “180 Shots On A Roll With The Little Stupid Camera”

He’s A Wrapper (Wire Wrapper, That Is)

Before PCBs, wiring electronic circuits was a major challenge in electronics production. A skilled person could make beautiful wire connections between terminal strips and components with a soldering iron, but it was labor-intensive and expensive. One answer that was very popular was wire wrapping, and [Sawdust & Circuits] shows off an old-fashioned wire wrap gun in the video below.

The idea was to use a spinning tool to tightly wrap solid wire on square pins. A proper wrap was a stable alternative to soldering. It required less skill, no heat, and was easy to unwrap (using a different tool) if you changed your mind. The tech started out as wiring telephone switchboards but quickly spread.

Not all tools were guns or electric. Some used a mechanical handle, and others were like pencils — you simply rotated them by hand. You could specify levels for sockets and terminals to get a certain pin length. A three-level pin could accept three wire wrap connections on a single pin, for example. There were also automated machines that could mass-produce wire-wrapped circuits.

The wire often had thin insulation, and tools usually had a slot made to strip the insulation on the tiny wires. Some guns created a “modified wrap” that left insulation at the top one or two wraps to relieve stress on the wire as it exited the post. If you can find the right tools, wires, and sockets, this is still a viable way to make circuits.

Want to know more about wire wrapping? Ask [Bil Herd].

Continue reading “He’s A Wrapper (Wire Wrapper, That Is)”

It’s Not A Lomo Smena 8M, But It’s Not Far Off

The joy of camera hacking lies for many at the low end of the market. Not working with many-thousand-dollar Leicas, but in cheap snapshot cameras that can be had for next to nothing at a thrift store. [Marek Sokal] has a perfect example, in a 3D printed 35mm camera body using the lens and shutter assembly from a vintage Soviet Lomo Smena 8M.

The build is a work in progress, a printed assembly that holds the 35mm film cartridge, provides the focal plane for the film, and houses the take-up reel. It fits together with M2 screws, as per the Lomo lens.

We like this build, because we can see beyond the Lomo. In a box above the desk where this is being written there is a pile of old plastic snapshot cameras from the 1960s through 1980s, none of which is worth anything much, but all of which have a similar shutter and lens assembly. In many cases it’s not a huge task to do with them what [Marek] has with the Lomo and mount them to a back like this. The LEGO film camera may not have gained approval, but this prove that making cameras of your own is still pretty easy.

Fixing Sony And Philips’ Doomed CD-i Console

Although not intended to be a game console, the CD-i would see a a couple of games released for it that would cement its position in gaming history as the butt of countless jokes, some of which still make Nintendo upset to this day. That aside, it’s still a fascinating glimpse at the CD-based multimedia future envisioned in the early 90s, starting with its release in 1990. Recently [MattKC] decided to purchase another CD-i in a fit of nostalgic rage, and repair it to show the world what the future could have been like.

Although Sony and Philips co-developed the device, Sony would go on to release the PlayStation a few years later, which made the CD-i’s life and expectations for it that much harder, leading to it slowly fading into history. The Magnavox one that [MattKC] got is one of the later models, based on the CD-i 450 that was introduced in 1994 as one of the more gaming-oriented models.

As is typical with older devices that use optical media, it would not read discs. It also would sometimes boot up with a ‘Memory Full’ error. This is a common fault due to the built-in battery having run out, erasing RAM-stored values and causing random glitches like this when garbage values were read in on boot.

Continue reading “Fixing Sony And Philips’ Doomed CD-i Console”

Nixie Gear Indicator Shines Bright

When you’re driving a car with a stickshift, it’s pretty easy to keep track of which gear you’re in. That can be a little bit more difficult on something like a motorcycle with a sequential shifter. [decogabry] built a neat gearshift indicator to solve this issue.

An ESP32 devboard is used as the brain of the build. It’s paired with an ELM327 dongle over Bluetooth, which is able to hook into the bike’s ODB diagnostic port to pick up data like engine RPM, wheel speed, and coolant temperature. The first two factors are combined in order to calculate the current gear, since the ratio between engine RPM and wheel speed is determined directly by the gear selection. The ESP32 then commands a Philips ZM1020 Nixie tube to display the gear, driving it via a small nest of MPSA42 transistors. A separate self-contained power supply module is used to take the bike’s 12 volt supply up to the 170 volts needed to run the tube. There is also a small four-digit display used to show status information, RPM, and engine temperature.

Notably,  [decogabry] made this build rather flexible, to suit any bike it might be installed upon. The gear ratios are not hard coded in software. Instead, there is a simple learning routine that runs the first time the system is powered up, which compares RPM and wheel speed during a steady-state ride and saves the ratios to flash.

We’ve featured projects before that used different techniques to achieve similar ends. It’s also interesting to speculate as to whether there’s a motorcycle vintage enough to suit a Nixie display while still having an ODB interface on board as standard. Meanwhile, if you’re cooking up your own neat automotive builds, don’t hesitate to drop us a line.