Over on YouTube [Lockdown Electronics] reviews an old bit of kit known as the Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR). Invented in the 1950s the SCR is a type of thyristor and they were popular back in the 1970s. They are often replaced these days by the TRIAC and the MOSFET but you might still find some old schematics that call for them and you can still buy them.
The SCR is a three terminal electronic switch which latches on. You apply a signal at the gate which allows the other two pins, the anode and cathode, to conduct; and they continue to do so until power is removed. The silicon inside the device is comprised of three semiconductor junctions, as: PNPN. The P on the left is the anode, the N on the right is the cathode, and the P in the right middle is the gate.
Fitting wheels to shafts and motors to a frame can be a bit tricky when none were made with the other in mind.
The purchased Dalek is made of wood and, with the help of two bolts, is of sufficient size to trap a human inside. There’s a bench of sorts upon which the captive can sit, and with some effort, shuffle the surrounding frame awkwardly about. The scale of the Dalek is impressive, but it was clear the effect of human-powered locomotion was lacking. The solution was to install wheelchair motors, tires, and an ESP32-based remote control.
Quite a lot of work went into mounting the motors and wheels, and the challenges will be familiar to anyone who has done hobby robotics. One can choose ideal motors and wheels, but making them fit one another can be an entirely different story. Shafts and hubs are of different sizes, motor mounting doesn’t quite match the platform, and it’s all a bit like fitting a square peg into a round hole. But with access to the right tools, it’s nothing a little metalwork and welding can’t solve.
For the control system, the ESP32 (with a beautiful CNC-routed custom PCB) sets itself up as a wireless access point that serves a web-based control panel for piloting, and controls two H-bridges to drive the motors. What’s more, it also provides a sound board from which a second operator can trigger appropriate phrases and sounds from the Dalek.
Some folks prefer their remote-controlled Daleks plush and cute instead of large and looming, but we like the smooth movement and imposing stature of this one. Watch it all in action in the video, embedded below.
Pagers were once a great way to get a message to someone out in public; they just had to be cool enough to have one. These days, they’re mostly the preserve of doctors and a few other niche operators. [Kyle Tryon] is bringing the beeper back, though, with a custom ESP32-based build.
The ESP32 is a great microcontroller for this kind of project, because it’s got WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity built right in. This let [Kyle] write some straightforward code so that it could receive alerts via MQTT. In particular, it’s set up to go off whenever there’s an app or service notification fired off by the Sentry platform. For [Kyle]’s line of work, it’s effectively an on-call beeper that calls them in when a system needs immediate attention. When it goes off, it plays the ringtone of your choice—with [Kyle] making it capable of playing tunes in Nokia’s old-school RTTTL music format.
The code was simple enough, and the assembly wasn’t much harder. By starting with an Adafruit ESP32 Reverse TFT Feather, the screen and buttons were all ready to go right out of the box. [Kyle] merely had to print up a rad translucent case on a resin printer to make it look like a sweet fashionable beeper from the 90s.
[Distracted by Design] loves gear from the 1980s, though some of it isn’t as useful as it used to be. He happened across a cheap old FM radio with a great look, but wanted to repurpose it into something more modern. Thus, he set about turning this cheap piece of old electronics into a stylish Bluetooth speaker.
All of the original electronics were stripped out, while the original speaker was kept since it neatly fit the case. Electronically, the build relies on a Bluetooth module harvested from an existing speaker. 3D-printed bracketry was used to fasten it neatly into place inside the radio housing, with the buttons neatly presented where the original radio had its tone and volume controls. Power is via an internal lithium-ion battery, charged over USB-C thanks to an off-the-shelf charging module.
Where the build really shines, though, is the detailing. The original cheap plastic handle was replaced with a CNC-machined wooden piece, bolted on with machined aluminium side plates. Similarly, the original clear plastic tuning window was replaced with another tasteful piece of wood that dropped perfectly into place. At the back, the charge port is nicely integrated. Where the radio formerly had a removable door for the power cable storage, it now has a machined aluminium plate hosting the USB-C charge port. Little 3D-printed button actuators were also used to integrate the Bluetooth module’s controls into the case.
It’s a very stylish build, overall. Perhaps the one area it’s a let down is in the sound quality. The ancient speaker simply doesn’t sound great compared to modern Bluetooth speakers and their finely-tuned, bassy audio. However, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing—sometimes it’s nice to have an audio source with a limited frequency response. It can be nice for use in an area where you may want to be able to easily speak over the music.
Polaroid cameras have been very popular for a very long time and are especially hot gifts this year. Fresh film is easy to find but relatively expensive. In contrast, Fuji’s Instax line of instant film and cameras aren’t as well established, but the film is easy to find and cheap. You might like to shoot cheap Instax film in your Polaroid camera. Thankfully, [Nick LoPresti] figured out how to do just that.
You can’t just slam an Instax cassette in an old Polaroid camera and expect it to work. The films are completely different sizes, and there’s no way they will feed properly through the camera’s mechanisms at all. Instead, you have to get manual about things. [Nick] starts by explaining the process of removing Instax film sheets from a cassette, which must be done without exposure to light if you want the film to remain useful. Then, if you know what you’re doing, you can tape it in place behind the lens of an old-school Polaroid camera, and expose it as you would any other shot. The chemistry is close enough that you’ll have a fair chance of getting something with passable exposure.
Once exposed, you have to develop the film. Normally, a Polaroid camera achieves this by squeezing the film sheet out through rollers to release the developer and start the process. Without being able to rely on the camera’s autofeed system, you need to find an alternative way to squeeze out the chemicals and get the image to develop. [Nick] recommends a simple kitchen rolling pin, while noting that you might struggle with some uneven chemical spread across the sheet. Ultimately, it’s a fussy hack, but it does work. It might only be worthwhile if you’ve got lots of Instax film kicking around and no other way to shoot it.
Want to visualize radioactive particles? You don’t need a boatload of lab equipment. Just a cloud chamber. And [Curious Scientist] is showing off an improved miniature cloud chamber that is easy to replicate using a 3D printer and common components.
The build uses a Peltier module, a CPU cooler, an aluminum plate, thermal paste, and headlight film. The high voltage comes from a sacrificed mosquito swatter. The power input for the whole system is any 12V supply.
The cloud chamber was high tech back in 1911 when physicist Charles T. R. Wilson made ionizing radiation visible by creating trails of tiny liquid droplets in a supersaturated vapor of alcohol or water. Charged particles pass through, leaving visible condensation trails.
We’ve often said that some technological advancements seemed like alien technology for their time. Sometimes we look back and think something would be easy until we realize they didn’t have the tools we have today. One of the biggest examples of this is how, in the 1950s, engineers created a color image that still plays on a black-and-white set, with the color sets also able to receive the old signals. [Electromagnetic Videos] tells the tale. The video below simulates various video artifacts, so you not only learn about the details of NTSC video, but also see some of the discussed effects in real time.
Creating a black-and-white signal was already a big deal, with the video and sync presented in an analog AM signal with the sound superimposed with FM. People had demonstrated color earlier, but it wasn’t practical for several reasons. Sending, for example, separate red, blue, and green signals would require wider channels and more complex receivers, and would be incompatible with older sets.
