Scott and his Prompt 80

Restoring A Vintage Intel Prompt 80 8080 Microcomputer Trainer

Over on his blog our hacker [Scott Baker] restores a Prompt 80, which was a development system for the 8-bit Intel 8080 CPU.

[Scott] acquired this broken trainer on eBay and then set about restoring it. The trainer provides I/O for programming, probing, and debugging an attached CPU. The first problem discovered when opening the case is that the CPU board is missing. The original board was an 80/10 but [Scott] ended up installing a newer 80/10A board he scored for fifty bucks. Later he upgraded to an 80/10B which increased the RAM and added a multimodule slot.

[Scott] has some luck fixing the failed power supply by recapping some of the smaller electrolytic capacitors which were showing high ESR. Once he had the board installed and the power supply functional he was able to input his first assembly program: a Cylon LED program! Making artistic use of the LEDs attached to the parallel port. You can see the results in the video embedded below.

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A hand holding a One ROM with a Commodore 64 in the background

One ROM: The Latest Incarnation Of The Software Defined ROM

Retrocomputers need ROMs, but they’re just so read only. Enter the latest incarnation of [Piers]’s One ROM to rule them all, now built with a RP2350, because the newest version is 5V capable. This can replace the failing ROMs in your old Commodore gear with this sweet design on a two-layer PCB, using a cheap microcontroller.

[Piers] wanted to use the RP2350 from the beginning but there simply wasn’t space on the board for the 23 level shifters which would have been required. But now that the A4 stepping adds 5 V tolerance [Piers] has been able to reformulate his design.

The C64 in the demo has three different ROMs: the basic ROM, kernel ROM, and character ROM. A single One ROM can emulate all three. The firmware is performance critical, it needs to convert requests on the address pins to results on the data bus just as fast as it can and [Piers] employs a number of tricks to meet these requirements.

The PCB layout for the RP2350 required extensive changes from the larger STM32 in the previous version. Because the RP2350 uses large power and ground pads underneath the IC this area, which was originally used to drop vias to the other side of the board, was no longer available for signal routing. And of course [Piers] is constrained by the size of the board needing to fit in the original form factor used by the C64.

The One ROM code is available over on GitHub, and the accompanying video from [Piers] is an interesting look into the design process and how tradeoffs and compromises and hacks are made in order to meet functional requirements.

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Reverse-Engineering Mystery TV Equipment: The Micro-Scan

[VWestlife] ended up with an obscure piece of 80s satellite TV technology, shown above. The Micro-Scan is a fairly plan metal box with a single “Tune” knob on the front. At the back is a power switch and connectors for TV Antenna, TV Set, and “MW” (probably meaning microwave). There’s no other data. What was this, and what was it for?

Satellite TV worked by having a dish receive microwave signals, but televisions could not use those signals directly. A downconverter was needed to turn the signal into something an indoor receiver box (to which the television was attached) could use, allowing the user to select a channel to feed into the TV.

At first, [VWestlife] suspected the Micro-Scan was a form of simple downconverter, but that turned out to not be the case. Testing showed that the box didn’t modify signals at all. Opening it up revealed the Micro-Scan acts as a combination switchbox and variable power supply, sending a regulated 12-16 V (depending on knob position) out the “MW” connector.

So what is it for, and what does that “Tune” knob do? When powered off, the Micro-Scan connected the TV (plugged into the “TV Set” connector) to its normal external antenna (connected to “TV Antenna”) and the TV worked like a normal television. When powered on, the TV would instead be connected to the “MW” connector, probably to a remote downconverter. In addition, the Micro-Scan supplied a voltage (the 12-16 V) on that connector, which was probably a control voltage responsible for tuning the downconverter. The resulting signal was passed unmodified to the TV.

It can be a challenge to investigate vintage equipment modern TV no longer needs, especially hardware that doesn’t fit the usual way things were done, and lacks documentation. If you’d like to see a walkthrough and some hands-on with the Micro-Scan, check out the video (embedded bel0w).

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A set of three linear actuators set atop a green with yellow grid cutting mat. The electric actuator on the top of the image is silver and has a squarish tube. It is slender compared to the other two. A black, hydraulic actuator sits in the middle and is the largest of the three. A silver pneumatic actuator at the bottom of the image is the middle sized unit.

Linear Actuators 101

Linear actuators are a great help when you’re moving something along a single axis, but with so many options, how do you decide? [Jeremy Fielding] walks us through some of the high level tradeoffs of using one type of actuator over another.

There are three main types of linear actuator available to the maker: hydraulic, pneumatic, and electric. Both the hydraulic and pneumatic types move a cylinder with an attached rod through a tube using pressure applied to either side of the cylinder. [Fielding] explains how the pushing force will be greater than the pulling force on these actuators since the rod reduces the available surface area on the cylinder when pulling the rod back into the actuator.

Electric actuators typically use an electric motor to drive a screw that moves the rod in and out. Unsurprisingly, the electric actuator is quieter and more precise than its fluid-driven counterparts. Pneumatic wins out when you want something fast and without a mess if a leak happens. Hydraulics can be driven to higher pressures and are typically best when power is the primary concern which is why we see them in construction equipment.

You can DIY your own linear actuators, we’ve seen tubular stepper motors, and even a linear actuator inspired by muscles.

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telescope mount

DIY Telescope Mount For Stellar Tracking

Pointing at stars may seem easy on the surface—just mount a telescope to a tripod and you’re done, right? As anyone who’s spent time with a telescope can tell you, it’s not that simple, given that the Earth is always spinning. [Sven] set out to make his own mount to compensate for the rotation of the Earth, which led to some pretty amazing results.

In this project, [Sven] designed a GoTo mount, which is a telescope equatorial mount capable of being pointed at specific parts of the sky and tracking them to allow for long-exposure photos with minimal blur due to the Earth’s movement. He first went down the path of finding the correct harmonic gearbox for the steppers used. A harmonic drive system would allow smooth, precise movement without backlash, and the 100:1 stepdown would provide for the slightest of adjustments.

The steppers are controlled by a custom PCB [Sven] designed around an ESP32-S3. The first PCB had a mistake in the power delivery circuit. After a small tweak, V2 boards arrived and work great. The PCB runs OnStepX, a great open-source project centered around pointing telescopes, cutting down a lot of the software workload on this project.

After all the work put in, you may be wondering how well it works. [Sven] was able to get a pointing accuracy of 1-2 arcseconds from his mount. To get an idea of how great that is, 1 arcsecond is about the same as pointing at a penny from 4 km (2.5 miles) away. Fantastic results, [Sven], and thank you for sending in this great project—be sure to head over to his site and read all the details of this impressive build. If you found this interesting, be sure to check out some of our other telescope-related projects.

A photo montage of scrap plastic being vacuumed up, processed in the main chamber, and bottled in gas tanks.

Solar Powered Pyrolysis Facility Converts Scrap Plastic Into Fuel

[naturejab] shows off his solar powered pyrolysis machine which can convert scrap plastic into fuel. According to the video, this is the world’s most complex hand-made pyrolysis reactor ever made. We will give him some wiggle room there around “complex” and “hand-made”, because whatever else you have to say about it this machine is incredibly cool!

As you may know pyrolysis is a process wherein heat is applied to organic material in an inert environment (such as a vacuum) which causes the separation of its covalent bonds thereby causing it to decompose. In this case we decompose scrap plastic into what it was made from: natural gas and petroleum.

His facility is one hundred percent solar powered. The battery is a 100 kWh Komodo commercial power tank. He has in the order of twenty solar power panels laying in the grass behind the facility giving him eight or nine kilowatts. The first step in using the machine, after turning it on, is to load scrap plastic into it; this is done by means of a vacuum pump attached to a large flexible tube. The plastic gets pumped through the top chamber into the bottom chamber, which contains blades that help move the plastic through it. The two chambers are isolated by a valve — operating it allows either chamber to be pumped down to vacuum independently.

Once the plastic is in the main vacuum chamber, the eight active magnetrons — the same type of device you’d find in your typical microwave oven — begin to break down the plastic. As there’s no air in the vacuum chamber, the plastic won’t catch fire when it gets hot. Instead it melts, returning to petroleum and natural gas vapor which it was made from. Eventually the resultant vapor flows through a dephlegmator cooling into crude oil and natural gas which are stored separately for later use and further processing.

If you’re interested in pyrolysis you might like to read Methane Pyrolysis: Producing Green Hydrogen Without Carbon Emissions.

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Close up of a DIY minimalist EDC multitool, a penny, and a paperclip

This Pocket Multitool Weighs Less Than A Penny

A multitool that weighs less than a penny? Yes, it exists. This video by [ToolTechGeek] shows his titanium flat-cut design tipping the scales at only 1.9 grams—lighter than the 2.5-gram copper penny jingling in your pocket. His reasoning: where most everyday carry (EDC) tools are bulky, overpriced, or simply too much, this hack flips the equation: reduce it to the absolute minimum, yet keep it useful.

You might have seen this before. This second attempt is done by laser-cutting titanium instead of stainless steel. Thinner, tougher, and rust-proof, titanium slashes the weight dramatically, while still keeping edges functional without sharpening. Despite the size, this tool manages to pack in a Phillips and flathead screwdriver, a makeshift saw, a paint-lid opener, a wire bender (yes, tested on a paperclip), and even a 1/4″ wrench doubling as a bit driver. High-torque screwdriving by using the long edges is a clever exploit, and yes—it scrapes wood, snaps zip ties, and even forces a bottle cap open, albeit a bit roughly.

It’s not about replacing your Leatherman; it’s about carrying something instead of nothing. Ultra-minimalist, featherlight, pocket-slip friendly—bet you can’t find a reason not to just have it in your pocket.

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