Rock Sphere Machine Produces Off The Charts Satisfaction

[Michigan Rocks] says he avoided making rock spheres for a long time on account of the time and cost he imagined was involved. Well, all that is in the past in light of the fabulous results from his self-built Rock Sphere Machine! Turns out that it’s neither costly to make such a machine, nor particularly time-consuming to create the spheres once things are dialed in. The video is a journey of the very first run of the machine, and it’s a great tour.

The resulting sphere? Super satisfying to hold and handle. The surface is beyond smooth, with an oil-like glossy shine that is utterly dry to the touch.

The basic concept — that of three cordless drills in tension — is adapted from existing designs, but the implementation is all his own. First a rough-cut rock is held between three diamond bits. The drills turn at 100 RPM while a simple water reservoir drips from above. After two hours, there’s a fair bit of slurry and the rock has definitely changed.

[Michigan Rocks] moves on to polishing, which uses the same setup but with progressively-finer grinding pads in place of the cutting bits. This part is also really clever, because the DIY polishing pads are great hacks in and of themselves. They’re made from little more than PVC pipe end caps with hex bolts as shafts. The end caps are filled with epoxy and topped with a slightly concave surface of hook-and-loop fastener. By doing this, he can cut up larger fuzzy-backed polishing pads and stick the pieces to his drill-mounted holders as needed, all the way down to 6000 grit. He shows everything about the pads at the 11:55 mark, and it’s an approach worth keeping in mind.

What is the end result like? See for yourself, but we think [Michigan Rocks] sums it up when he says “I wish you could feel this thing, it feels so smooth. It’s so satisfying to roll around in your hands. I’m so happy I made this machine. This is awesome.”

We’ve seen machines for making wooden spheres but this one makes fantastic use of repurposed stuff like inexpensive cordless drills, and the sort of wood structures anyone with access to hand tools can make.

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Scanning Table For The Professional Maker

Sometimes the simplest objects need some overthinking. This is exactly what [Chris Borge] realized when using his 3D scanner and finding that the included rotation table left quite a bit to be desired — providing him the perfect excuse to build a new one.

One of the main features of a rotation stage is the, well, rotation. This was done in [Chris]’s case with a NEMA 17 stepper motor, perfect for precise rotation of scanning. Hooking up the motor to a basic perf board with an Arduino Nano allows for on the fly adjustments to rotation speed. To really solidify the over-engineering, [Chris] applies his obligatory concrete mix to add some heft to the stage.

While the previous features could be removed/downgraded without much loss, the adjustable grid built into the top adds significant functionality. The grid is based on [Chris]’s past projects, which allows cross compatibility.

We love over-engineering here at Hackaday, especially when adding something new. For more prime overthought design, check out this over engineered egg cracker!

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He’s A Wrapper (Wire Wrapper, That Is)

Before PCBs, wiring electronic circuits was a major challenge in electronics production. A skilled person could make beautiful wire connections between terminal strips and components with a soldering iron, but it was labor-intensive and expensive. One answer that was very popular was wire wrapping, and [Sawdust & Circuits] shows off an old-fashioned wire wrap gun in the video below.

The idea was to use a spinning tool to tightly wrap solid wire on square pins. A proper wrap was a stable alternative to soldering. It required less skill, no heat, and was easy to unwrap (using a different tool) if you changed your mind. The tech started out as wiring telephone switchboards but quickly spread.

Not all tools were guns or electric. Some used a mechanical handle, and others were like pencils — you simply rotated them by hand. You could specify levels for sockets and terminals to get a certain pin length. A three-level pin could accept three wire wrap connections on a single pin, for example. There were also automated machines that could mass-produce wire-wrapped circuits.

The wire often had thin insulation, and tools usually had a slot made to strip the insulation on the tiny wires. Some guns created a “modified wrap” that left insulation at the top one or two wraps to relieve stress on the wire as it exited the post. If you can find the right tools, wires, and sockets, this is still a viable way to make circuits.

Want to know more about wire wrapping? Ask [Bil Herd].

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Welding Nuts Inside Metal Tubes, Painlessly

[Jer Schmidt] needed a way to put a lot of M8 bolts into a piece of square steel tubing, but just drilling and tapping threads into the thin steel wouldn’t be strong enough. So he figured out a way to reliably weld nuts to the inside of the tube, and his technique works even if the tube is long and the inside isn’t accessible.

Two smaller holes on either side. Weld through the holes. A little grinding results in a smooth top surface.

Essentially, one drills a hole for the bolt, plus two smaller holes on either side. Then one welds the nut to the tubing through those small holes, in a sort of plug weld. A little grinding is all it takes to smooth out the surface, and one is left with a strong threaded hole in a thin-walled tube, using little more than hardware store fasteners.

The technique doesn’t require access to the inside of the tube for the welding part, although getting the nut back there in the first place does require a simple helper tool the nut can slot into. [Jer] makes one with some scrap wood and a table saw, just to show it doesn’t need to be anything fancy.

Another way to put a threaded hole into thin material is to use a rivnut, or rivet nut (sometimes also used to put durable threads into 3D prints) but welding a plain old nut to the inside was far more aligned with what [Jer] needed, and doesn’t rely on any specialty parts or tools.

[Jer]’s upcoming project requires a lot of bolts all the way down long tubing, which is what got him into all of this. Watch it in action in the video below, because [Jer] has definitely worked out the kinks, and he steps through a lot of tips and tricks to make the process painless.

Thanks [paulvdh] for the tip!

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A set of three stacked oscilloscopes is shown. The lower two oscilloscopes have screens and input pins visible, and the top oscilloscope is reversed, with a printed back plate visible.

A Higher-End Pico-Based Oscilloscope

Hackers have been building their own basic oscilloscopes out of inexpensive MCUs and cheap LCD screens for some years now, but microcontrollers have recently become fast enough to actually make such ‘scopes useful. [NJJ], for example, used a pair of Raspberry Pi Picos to build Picotronix, an extensible combined oscilloscope and logic analyzer.

This isn’t an open-source project, but it is quite well-documented, and the general design logic and workings of the device are freely available. The main board holds two Picos, one for data sampling and one to handle control, display, and external communication. The control unit is made out of stacked PCBs surrounded by a 3D-printed housing; the pinout diagrams printed on the back panel are a helpful touch. One interesting technique was to use a trimmed length of clear 3D printer filament as a light pipe for an indicator LED.

Even the protocol used to communicate between the Picos is documented; the datagrams are rather reminiscent of Ethernet frames, and can originate either from one of the Picos or from a host computer. This lets the control board operate as an automatic testing station reporting data over a wireless or USB-connected network. The display module is therefore optional hardware, and a variety of other boards (called picoPods) can be connected to the Picotronix control board. These include a faster ADC, adapters for various analog input spans, a differential analog input probe, a 12-bit logic state analyzer, and a DAC for signal generation.

If this project inspired you to make your own, we’ve also seen other Pico-based oscilloscopes before, including one that used a phone for the display.

Do Expensive Filaments Make 3D Printed Wrenches Better?

What filament is strongest? The real answer is “it depends”, but sometimes you have a simple question and you just want a simple answer. Like, which material makes the best 3D printed wrench? [My Tech Fun] printed a bunch of options to find out — including some expensive filaments — and got some interesting insights in the process.

His setup is simple: he printed a bunch of 13 mm open-end wrenches, and tested each one to failure by cranking on a clamped digital torque meter until the wrench failed by breaking, or skipping.

[My Tech Fun] tested a total of eighteen filaments, from regular basic PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA, and a variety of carbon fiber-infused filaments including PPA-CF. TPU is included for fun, and there’s also a wrench printed with continuous carbon fiber, which requires a special printer. More on that in a moment. First, let’s get to the results!

PETG wrench reinforced with continuous carbon fiber. The result is extremely stiff compared to without.

Unsurprisingly, TPU fared the worst at 0.8 nM which is roughly “unscrewing the cap of a water bottle” territory. Top performers included the wrench printed with continuous carbon fiber reinforcement (failing at 3.7 nM) and a couple printed in expensive PPA-CF (high-temperature nylon filament with carbon fiber) topped the list at 4.3 nM. Everything else landed somewhere in between, with plain PLA surprisingly outperforming some CF blends.

The continuous carbon fiber wrench was printed on a FibreSeeker printer, which reinforces a print with solid fibers embedded into the plastic instead of chopped particles, and such prints are noticeably more resistant to bending. Check out our earlier coverage for a closer look at what the FibreSeeker does.

This is a good time to mention that the wrench 3D model used is not at all optimized for best results with 3D printing. But that’s okay; this is really about the filaments, not the wrench.

The wrench model is just a way to test things in a familiar and highly visual, relatable way. You can see each one in action in the video below, and seeing [My Tech Fun] turn the wrenches gives a very good idea of just how much force is involved, with a relatable display of just how strong the different filaments are.

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[nanofix] and his assortment of tweezers

Reviewing Tweezers For Microsoldering And SMD Work

Attributed to Picasso was the notion that when art critics get together they talk about content, style, trend, and meaning; but that when painters get together they talk about where to get the best turpentine. We can extend that sentiment into the digital age by saying that when philosophers get together they talk about ideas, theory, and meaning; but when hackers get together they talk about where to get the best tweezers.

In this video [nanofix] runs us through his collection of tweezers talking about what he likes and doesn’t like for each. If you’re just getting into microsoldering this video will have some tips about where you should start, and if you’ve been soldering tiny stuff for a while you might find some ideas for a helpful new bit of kit, or two.

If you’re interested in tweezers and novel applications you might want to check out β€œsmart” tweezers, which can read capacitance and resistance values on the fly. Or read about a suction based SMD tool, which can securely hold SMD components with less risk of them flying across the bench and disappearing forever into the carpet on the floor.

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