Smart Temp Sensors Helps You Nail Your Cooking

Cooking is all about temperature control: too cold isn’t good enough, and too hot can ruin everything. To aid in this regard, [Printerforge] created a smart temperature alarm to keep them aware of exactly what’s going on in the pot.

The device is simple — it uses an Arduino Nano hooked up to a thermistor to measure the temperature of fluid in a pot. The microcontroller displays the current temperature and the target temperature on a simple 16×2 character LCD. Upon the fluid reaching the target temperature, the alarm is sounded, indicating that the cooking has reached a given stage or must otherwise be seen to. The whole build is wrapped up in a simple 3D printed case, along with a lithium-ion cell with charging managed via a TP4056 module.

If you’re regularly letting your pasta overcook or your stews burn in the pot, this kind of tool could be useful for you. Similarly, if you’ve ever wanted to pursue the 64-degree egg, this could be a way to do it.  The trick is to make sure you build it safely—ensuring that any parts that come into contact with the food are rated as food safe for your given application.

If this build has you contemplating the possibilities of machine-assisted cooking, you might like to go even further. How about getting involved in the world of sous vide? Meanwhile, if you’ve got any kitchen hacks of your own, don’t hesitate to let us know on the tipsline!

Turbine Blower 3D Prints Every Part, Including Triple Planetary Gears

There was a time when print-in-place moving parts were a curiosity, but [Tomek] shows that things are now at a point where a hand-cranked turbine blower with integrated planetary gears can be entirely 3D printed. Some assembly is needed, but there is no added hardware beyond the printed parts. The blower is capable of decent airflow and can probably be optimized even further. Have a look at it work in the video below.

Every piece being 3D printed brings a few advantages. Prefer the hand crank on the other side? Simply mirror everything. Want a bigger version? Just scale everything up. Because all of the fasteners are printed as well as the parts, there’s no worry about external hardware no longer fitting oversized holes after scaling things up (scaling down might run into issues with tolerances, but if you manage an extra-small version, we’d love to hear about it).

There are a few good tips that are worth keeping in mind when it comes to print-in-place assemblies with moving parts. First, changing the seam location for each layer to ‘Random’ helps make moving parts smoother. This helps prevent the formation of a seam line, which can act as a little speed bump that gets in the way of smooth movement.

The other thing that helps is lubrication. A plastic-safe lubricant like PTFE-based Super Lube is a handy thing to have around the workshop and does wonders for smoothing out the action of 3D-printed moving parts. And we can attest that rubbing candle wax on mating surfaces works pretty well in a pinch.

One downside is that the blower is noisy in operation. 3D printed gears (and even printed bearings) can be effective, but do contribute to a distinct lack of silence compared to their purpose-built versions.

Still, a device like this is a sign of how far 3D printing has come, and how it enables projects that would otherwise remain an idea in a notebook. We do love 3D-printed gears.

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A Wood Chipper From First Principles

For whatever reason, certain pieces of technology can have a difficult time interacting with the physical world. Anyone who has ever used a printer or copier can attest to this, as can anyone whose robot vacuum failed to detect certain types of non-vacuumable waste in their path, making a simple problem much worse. Farm equipment often falls into this category as well, where often complex machinery needs an inordinate amount of maintenance and repair just to operate normally. Wood chippers specifically seem to always get jammed or not work at all, so [Homemade Inventions] took a shot at building one on their own.

To build this screw-based wood chipper, the first thing to fabricate is the screw mechanism itself. A number of circles of thick steel were cut out and then shaped into pieces resembling large lock washers. These were then installed on a shaft and welded end-to-end, creating the helical screw mechanism. With the “threads” of the screw sharpened it is placed into a cylinder with a port cut out to feed the wood into. Powering the screw is a 3 kW electric motor paired with a custom 7:1 gearbox, spinning the screw at around 200 rpm. With that, [Homemade Inventions] has been able to easily chip branches up to 5 centimeters thick, and theorizes that it could chip branches even thicker than that.

Of course, wood chippers are among the more dangerous tools that are easily available to anyone with enough money to buy one or enough skill to build one, along with chainsaws, angle grinders, and table saws, so make sure to take appropriate safety precautions when using or building any of these things. Of course, knowing the dangers of these tools have led to people attempting to make safer versions like this self-propelled chainsaw mill or the semi-controversial table saw safety standard.

Thanks to [Keith] for the tip!

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Pi Networks The Smith Chart Way

[Ralph] is excited about impedance matching, and why not? It is important to match the source and load impedance to get the most power out of a circuit. He’s got a whole series of videos about it. The latest? Matching using a PI network and the venerable Smith Chart.

We like that he makes each video self-contained. It does mean if you watch them all, you get some review, but that’s not a bad thing, really. He also does a great job of outlining simple concepts, such as what a complex conjugate is, that you might have forgotten.

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Two clear acrylic tubes are shown in the foreground. Swirls of sawdust are visible on the inside of the tubes, and the tubes are held in place by grey plastic connectors. Below the tubes, there are two clear plastic tubs containing sawdust.

Optimizing Dust Separation For Extreme Efficiency

[Ruud], the creator of [Capturing Dust], started his latest video with what most of us would consider a solved problem: the dust collection system for his shop already had a three-stage centrifugal dust separator with more than 99.7% efficiency. This wasn’t quite as efficient as it could be, though, so [Ruud]’s latest upgrade shrinks the size of the third stage while increasing efficiency to within a rounding error of 99.9%.

The old separation system had two stages to remove large and medium particles, and a third stage to remove fine particles. The last stage was made out of 100 mm acrylic tubing and 3D-printed parts, but [Ruud] planned to try replacing it with two parallel centrifugal separators made out of 70 mm tubing. Before he could do that, however, he redesigned the filter module to make it easier to weigh, allowing him to determine how much sawdust made it through the extractors. He also attached a U-tube manometer (a somewhat confusing name to hear on YouTube) to measure pressure loss across the extractor.

The new third stage used impellers to induce rotational airflow, then directed it against the circular walls around an air outlet. The first design used a low-profile collection bin, but this wasn’t keeping the dust out of the air stream well enough, so [Ruud] switched to using plastic jars. Initially, this didn’t perform as well as the old system, but a few airflow adjustments brought the efficiency up to 99.879%. In [Ruud]’s case, this meant that of 1.3 kilograms of fine sawdust, only 1.5 grams of dust made it through the separator to the filter, which is certainly impressive in our opinion. The design for this upgraded separator is available on GitHub.

[Ruud] based his design off of another 3D-printed dust separator, but adapted it to European fittings. Of course, the dust extractor is only one part of the problem; you’ll still need a dust routing system.

Thanks to [Keith Olson] for the tip!

Do You Need A Bench Meter?

If you do anything with electronics or electricity, it is a good bet you have a multimeter. Even the cheapest meter today would have been an incredible piece of lab gear not long ago and, often, meters today are lighter and have more features than the old Radio Shack meters we grew up with. But then there are bench meters. [Learn Electronics Repair] reviews an OWON XDM1241 meter, and you have to wonder if it is better than just a decent handheld device. Check out the video below and see what you think.

Some of the advantage of a bench meter is just convenience. They stay in one place and often have a bigger display than a handheld. Of course, these days, the bench meter isn’t much better than a handheld anyway. In fact, one version of this meter even has a battery, if you want to carry it around.

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Capturing Screenshots Using A Fake Printer

If you have very old pieces of analogue test equipment with CRTs on your bench, the chances are they will all have surprisingly similar surrounds to their screens. Back when they were made it was common to record oscilloscope screens with a Polaroid camera, that would have a front fitting for just this purpose.

More recent instruments are computerized so taking a screen shot should be easier, but that’s still not easy if the machine can’t save to a handy disk. Along comes [Tom] with a solution, to hook up a fake printer, and grab the screen from a print.

Old instruments come with a variety of ports, serial, IEE-488, or parallel, but they should usually have the ability to print a screen. Then capturing that is a case of capturing an interpreting the print data, be it ESC/P, PCL5, Postscript, or whatever. The linked page takes us through a variety of techniques, and should be of help to anyone who’s picked up a bargain in the flea market.

This isn’t the only time we’ve touched on the subject of bringing older computerized equipment into the present, we’ve also shown you a disk drive emulator.

Thanks [JohnU] for the tip.