A booted foot is seen descending on a foot pedal attached to a lever underneath a three-legged stand. Three levers extend from the legs, each with a wheel on it, and attach to the central foot plate.

Building A Vise Stand With Pen-Like Retracting Wheels

Old shop tools have a reputation for resilience and sturdiness, and though some of this is due to survivorship bias, some of it certainly comes down to an abundance of cast iron. The vise which [Marius Hornberger] recently restored is no exception, which made a good stand indispensable; it needed to be mobile for use throughout the shop, yet stay firmly in place under significant force. To do this, he built a stand with a pen-like locking mechanism to deploy and retract some caster wheels.

Most of the video goes over the construction of the rest of the stand, which is interesting in itself; the stand has an adjustable height, which required [Marius] to construct two interlocking center columns with a threaded adjustment mechanism. The three legs of the stand were welded out of square tubing, and the wheels are mounted on levers attached to the inside of the legs. One of the levers is longer and has a foot pedal that can be pressed down to extend all the casters and lock them in place. A second press on the pedal unlocks the levers, which are pulled up by springs. The locking mechanism is based on a cam that blocks or allows motion depending on its rotation; each press down rotates it a bit. This mechanism, like most parts of the stand, was laser-cut and laser-welded (if you want to skip ahead to its construction, it begins at about 29:00).

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Turning A Bluetooth Caliper Into A FreeCAD Input Device

It’s a common ritual: whipping out those calipers or similar measuring devices to measure part of a physical object that we’re trying to transfer into a digital model in an application like FreeCAD. Wouldn’t it be nice if said measurements were to be transferred instantaneously into the model’s sketch, including appropriate units of measurement? That’s essentially what [stv0g] has done by merging a Sylvac Bluetooth-enabled caliper and FreeCAD using a plugin.

Key to the whole operation is a Bluetooth-enabled caliper like the Sylvac S_Cal EVO that [stv0g] managed to score on EBay for a mere €90 when it normally goes for multiple times that amount. This has BLE built in, using BLE’s standard GATT profiles for device communications specifications. Along with the provided Sylvac developer tools, this made it relatively easy to develop the InstrumentInput addon for FreeCAD.

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Making A Vintage Allen Scythe Electric

The Allen Scythe is one of those fantastic pieces of vintage agricultural machinery which would never be allowed to be manufactured today for health and safety reasons. It’s a two-wheel walk-behind device with a frightening reciprocating cutter bar which makes short work of almost anything. It’s the perfect tool for the roughest of brush clearance, but it demands respect. [Way Out West Workshop Stuff] has one, and is replacing the vintage Villiers two-stroke engine with an electric motor.

The conversion is straightforward enough, the Villiers crankshaft being replaced with a straight-through axle that can be driven by the motor. We particularly like the use of a cable tie as a splash lubricator. The shaft is turned to accept the Villiers’ bearings, the gear to drive the Allen, and a chain sprocket where the cord start would go on the engine. A mounting plate puts the motor above, a chain is fitted, and it’s ready to go once a hefty battery pack has been installed.

There are two videos below the break, showing construction, and finally the machine in action. The electric Allen is every bit as useful as the original, without the noise and vibration. Villiers motors can be temperamental, so we’d view it as an upgrade worth having.

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An Oscilloscope The Way They Used To Be

It’s likely that Hackaday has a readership with the highest percentage of oscilloscope ownership among any in the world, and we’re guessing that most of you who fit in that bracket have a modern digital instrument on your bench. It’s a computer with a very fancy analogue front end, and the traces are displayed in software. Before those were a thing though, a ‘scope was an all-analogue affair, with a vacuum-tube CRT showing the waveform in real time. [Joshua Coleman] has made one of these CRT ‘scopes from scratch, and we rather like it.

Using a vintage two inch round tube, it includes all the relevant power supplies and input amplifiers for the deflection plates. It doesn’t include the triggers and timebase circuitry you’d expect from a desktop instrument though, so unless you add a sawtooth on its X input it’s only good for some Lissajous figures. But that’s not the point of a project like this one, because it’s likely even the cheapest of modern ‘scopes way exceeds any capabilities it would have even if it were fully formed. It’s a talking point and an attractive demonstration of a bit of early-20th-century physics, which probably many of us would appreciate if it were ours.

A video of the device is below the break, meanwhile we’ve taken a look in the past at the prehistory of the oscilloscope.

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3D Printed Wire Stripper Uses PLA Blades

One might think that [Da_Rius]’s mostly 3D printed wire stripper would count its insulation-shearing blades among the small number of metal parts required, but that turns out to not be the case. The blades are actually printed in PLA, and seem to work just fine for this purpose. (We imagine they need somewhat frequent replacement, but still.)

Proper wire strippers are one of the most useful tools for a budding electronics enthusiast, because stripping hookup wire is a common task and purpose-built strippers make for quick and consistent results.

As far as tools go they are neither particularly expensive nor difficult to source, but making one’s own has a certain appeal to it. The process of assembling the tool is doubtless a rewarding one, and it looks like it results in a pretty good conversation starter if nothing else.

As mentioned, the tool is mostly 3D printed and does require some metal parts: fasteners, heat-set inserts, and a couple springs. Metal nuts and heat-set inserts are easy enough to obtain, but springs of particular size and shape are a bit trickier.

It is perfectly possible to make custom springs, and as it happens [Da_Rius] already has that covered with a separate project for using a hex key and printed jig to make exactly the right shapes and sizes from pre-tempered spring wire.

Powering USB Devices With A Bench Supply Adapter Board

Sometimes you wanna test a piece of USB hardware, but you don’t just want to plug it into a random old phone charger. [KS-Elektronikdesign] has whipped up a useful tool for just that case, allowing one to easily power USB hardware from a common bench supply.

It would have been simple enough to whip up an adapter board to connect banana jacks to the power pins of a regular USB port. Easing the hookup process was indeed a part of the motivation for this project, in making it easy to power hardware that hooks up via USB-A and USB-C. However, it also goes a little further. It includes TUSB319 chip to handle the all-important power negotiation, without which many USB devices will not feel confident drawing their required amount of current.

There is also polarity protection and over-voltage protection to stop you from blowing stuff up if you hook the board up wrong, which might save you a smartphone or three in the lab. The board will allow negotiated output power up to 10 W via USB-A and 15 W via USB-C, which isn’t heaps, but will be fine for lots of smaller devices. You can up that to 25 W and 35 W respectively if the board is switched to pass-through mode. We particularly like the physical design—the board will plug straight into the banana plugs on any supply with a jack spacing of 19 to 23 mm.

Overall, this is a useful tool to have in the lab if you want to run USB hardware with the flexibility of the voltage and current limits available on your bench supply. There are other ways to power modern USB devices, too, and you can do all kinds of wild stuff if you learn about USB PD and USB PPS. If you’re working up your own nifty lab tools for similar purposes, we’d love to know about it on the tipsline.

DIY Reflow Plate Runs On USB Power Delivery

If you’re working with surface mount components, you’re likely going to want a reflow plate at some point. [Vitaly] was in need of just such a tool, and thus whipped up a compact reflow plate that is conveniently powered via USB-C. 

This reflow rig is designed for smaller work, with a working area of 80 mm x 70 mm. There are two options for the heating element—either a metal core PCB-based heater, or a metal ceramic heater. The former is good for working with Sn42Bi58 solder paste at 138 C, according to [Vitaly], while the latter will happily handle Sn63Pb37 at 183 C if the dirty stuff is more your jam.

Running the show is an ESP32-C3-WROOM, which serves up a web-based control panel over Bluetooth for setting the heating profiles. Using Bluetooth over WiFi might seem like an odd choice at first, but it means you don’t have to add the hot plate to the local wireless network to access it, handy if you’re on the move. It’s also worth noting that you can’t run this off any old USB charger—you’ll need one compatible with USB Power Delivery (PD) that can deliver at least 100 watts.

If you’re needing to whip up small boards with regularity, a hotplate like this one can really come in handy. Files are on GitHub for those eager to build their own.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen USB-C powering a small reflow plate. Of course, if you make your PCBs self heating, you can sidestep all that entirely.