Woodstove Assistant Keeps The Heat On Safely

Those who have never lived in a cold climate might romanticize winters around a fire, keeping warm under blankets while snow gently falls outside. While it certainly can be a cozy experience, using a woodstove comes with a number of pitfalls, and when operated improperly can even cause house-destroying chimney fires. Modern stoves operated properly with properly dried wood make this possibility extremely remote, but it’s still worth keeping an eye on. Reddit user [nas886] built a system called Oru which takes a lot of the guesswork out using one of these pieces of heating equipment.

The real danger of a woodstove isn’t necessarily running the fire too hot, although that can be a problem, but running it too cold. Without full combustion of the wood, flammable creosote builds up on the inside of the chimney which eventually can combust. This system uses a probe placed in the stovepipe to monitor the temperature of the exhaust gasses. If it’s too low an ESP32 notifies [nas886] remotely with with a status LED inside a seperate custom-built walnut enclosure so that more wood can quickly be added or airflow increased to bring up the temperature, and in the case that the fire gets too hot the LED changes to a different color and the air can be closed off a bit.

Woodstoves themselves have quite a bit of variability in the size wood they can burn, the amount they can hold at once, their efficiency, and their thermal mass, so this could find utility for anyone from those with tiny stoves that have to be fed constantly to those trying to get all-night burns in massive units, all without having to constantly sit by the fire and monitor it. [nas886] found initial success selling a few of these custom units and plans to put it into further production as well, but the general idea is not too difficult to replicate for most of us here either.

Continue reading “Woodstove Assistant Keeps The Heat On Safely”

Motorized Planer Height Adjustment Dials In

Having access to a planer opens up a lot of options for woodworking. It enables a craftsman to work with much rougher lumber and the finished results generally have tighter tolerances. But as [DendroLabsDev] found out, the height adjustment wheel on a planer needs a lot of turns to go from its lowest to highest position, and this gets tiresome when greasing parts during maintenance. So what started as a quick hack to quickly perform this single maintenance task eventually resulted in this programmable height adjustment that’s in use on the planer full-time now.

The motor attached to the height adjustment for the planer is a stepper motor, capable of around 1000 steps per inch. Since revolutions on this tool with the stock wheel adjust only a small amount per revolution, this can in theory enable very small tolerances to be dialed in consistently. Not only that, but [DendroLabsDev] has programmed it with a few different modes, the first of which allows a board to be planed to a certain thickness by making several passes, mimicking the workflow of a human-controlled machine. Then a device to zero the position was added, and then the ability to save the height adjustments to make replication across different boards was added, and then a mode to step through set amounts per pass.

What [DendroLabsDev] has essentially made is a high-dollar planer control that is actually available in the most expensive planers, but adapted for a DeWalt planer easily available and semi-affordable at many local hardware stores. It is also theoretically adaptable for any planer with an adjustment wheel, and [DendroLabsDev] has some plans to improve the control system and package it with a PCB and enclosure that would allow it to be a more accessible product for other woodworkers. Adding electronics to woodworking tools other than routers is a popular pastime, take this CNC-controlled scroll saw for example.

A Sail And Oar Skiff Built From Common Lumber

For those first venturing into sailing, it can be overwhelming since the experience is thick with jargon and skills that don’t often show up in life ashore. With endless choices, including monohulls versus catamarans, fiberglass versus wood, fractional versus masthead rigs, and sloops versus ketches, a new sailor risks doing something like single-handing a staysail schooner when they should have started on a Bermuda-rigged dinghy without a spinnaker. Luckily, there are some shortcuts to picking up the hobby, like the venerable Sunfish or Hobie ships. It’s also possible to build a simple sailing vessel completely out of materials from a local hardware store, as [Cumberland Rover] has been demonstrating.

Continue reading “A Sail And Oar Skiff Built From Common Lumber”

Heating A Woodshop With Sawdust

Most carpenters and woodworkers find themselves with the problem of disposing of all the sawdust they create when performing their craft. There are lots of creative solutions to this problem, such as adding it compost, using it as groundcover in a garden, adding it as filler in a composting toilet, or pressing it into bricks to burn in a stove. All of these have their uses, but involve either transporting the sawdust somewhere or performing some intermediate step to process it. [Greenhill Forge] wanted to make more direct use of it so he built this stove which can burn the sawdust directly and which provides enough heat for his woodshop.

The design is based on one which is somewhat common in Japan and involves building a vessel with a central tube for airflow, with the sawdust packed around it. The tube is made from a hardware cloth or screen to allow air to reach the sawdust. The fire is lit from the top, closed, and then allowed to burn through the stack. [Greenhill Forge] welded the entire stove from various pieces of sheet metal and bar stock, with a glass plate at the top of the stove to close off the fire and a baffle to control the airflow and rate of burn.

Initially, [Greenhill Forge] thought that the fire would burn from the top down, but this turned out to create a smoldery, messy fire instead of a hot, clean burn. Eventually, though, an ember fell down to the bottom and let the stack burn from the top up, and then it started generating serious heat. He estimates that with around 5 kg of sawdust burning for three hours that it’s about equivalent to a 6 kW stove. While a woodworker might not have enough sawdust to run this stove every day, it could be good to have on hand to use once every few weeks when the sawdust builds up enough. [Greenhill Forge] has been hard at work building unique wood burning stoves lately, like this one we recently featured which generates and then uses charcoal as fuel.

Continue reading “Heating A Woodshop With Sawdust”

Off-Grid Electricity And Hot Water From Scrap Wood

Cooking with charcoal is a fairly common human activity, as much as others have come to prefer fuels like propane and propane accessories for their outdoor, summertime grilling. Although it’s made from wood, it has properties that make it much more useful for cooking — including burning at a higher temperature and with more consistent burn rates. It can also be used as a fuel for generating heat and electricity, but since it’s not typically found lying around in the forest it has to be produced, which [Greenhill Forge] has demonstrated his charcoal production system in one of his latest videos.

The process for creating charcoal is fairly simple. All that needs to happen is for wood to be heated beyond a certain temperature in the absence of oxygen. At this point it will off-gas the water stored in it as well as some of the volatile organic compounds, and what’s left behind is a flammable carbon residue. Those volatile organics are flammable as well, though, so [Greenhill Forge] uses them to heat the wood in a self-sustaining reaction. First, a metal retort is constructed from a metal ammo box, with a pipe extending from the side and then underneath the box. A few holes are drilled in this part, and the apparatus is mounted above a small fire on a metal stand. With the fire lit the wood begins heating, and as it heats these compounds exit the pipe and ignite, adding further fuel to the fire. Eventually the small fire will go out, allowing the retort to heat itself on the gasses released from the wood alone.

To generate the hot water, [Greenhill Forge] has taken an extra step and enclosed the retort in a double walled metal cylinder. Inside the cylinder is a copper tube packed in sand, which harvests the waste heat from the charcoal production for hot water. In his test runs, the water in a large drum was heated to the point that the tubing he used for the test began to melt, so it is certainly working better than he expected.

After the retort cools, [Greenhill Forge] uses the charcoal in another process that generates about a days’ worth of electricity and hot water. It’s part of a complete off-grid system that’s fairly carbon neutral, since trees are an abundant renewable resource compared to fossil fuels. Heating with wood directly is still common in many cold areas around the world, with the one major downside being the labor required to keep the stove running. But we’ve seen at least one project which solves this problem as well.

Continue reading “Off-Grid Electricity And Hot Water From Scrap Wood”

The Confusing World Of Wood Preservation Treatments

Wood is an amazing material to use around the house, both for its green credentials and the way it looks and feels. That said, as a natural product there are a lot of microorganisms and insects around that would love to take a few good nibbles out of said wood, no matter whether it’s used for fencing, garden furniture or something else. For fencing in particular wood treatments are therefore applied that seek to deter or actively inhibit these organisms, but as the UK bloke over at the [Rag ‘n’ Bone Brown] YouTube channel found out last year, merely slapping on a coating of wood preserver may actually make things worse.

For the experiment three tests were set up, each with an untreated, self-treated and two pressure treated (tanalized) sections. Of the pressure treated wood one had a fresh cut on the exposed side, with each of the three tests focusing on a different scenario.

After three years of these wood cuts having been exposed to being either partially buried in soil, laid on the long side or tossed in a bucket, all while soaking up the splendid wonders of British weather, the results were rather surprising and somewhat confusing. The self-treated wood actually fared worse than the untreated wood, while the pressure treated wood did much better, but as a comment by [davidwx9285] on the video notes, there are many questions regarding how well the pressure treatment is performed.

While the self-treatment gets you generally only a surface coating of the – usually copper-based – compound, the vacuum pressure treatment’s effectiveness depends on how deep the preservative has penetrated, which renders some treated wood unsuitable for being buried in the ground. Along with these factors the video correctly identifies the issue of grain density, which is why hardwoods resist decay much better than e.g. pine. Ultimately it’s quite clear that ‘simply put on a wood preserver’ isn’t quite the magical bullet that it may have seemed to some.

Continue reading “The Confusing World Of Wood Preservation Treatments”

A Wood Chipper From First Principles

For whatever reason, certain pieces of technology can have a difficult time interacting with the physical world. Anyone who has ever used a printer or copier can attest to this, as can anyone whose robot vacuum failed to detect certain types of non-vacuumable waste in their path, making a simple problem much worse. Farm equipment often falls into this category as well, where often complex machinery needs an inordinate amount of maintenance and repair just to operate normally. Wood chippers specifically seem to always get jammed or not work at all, so [Homemade Inventions] took a shot at building one on their own.

To build this screw-based wood chipper, the first thing to fabricate is the screw mechanism itself. A number of circles of thick steel were cut out and then shaped into pieces resembling large lock washers. These were then installed on a shaft and welded end-to-end, creating the helical screw mechanism. With the “threads” of the screw sharpened it is placed into a cylinder with a port cut out to feed the wood into. Powering the screw is a 3 kW electric motor paired with a custom 7:1 gearbox, spinning the screw at around 200 rpm. With that, [Homemade Inventions] has been able to easily chip branches up to 5 centimeters thick, and theorizes that it could chip branches even thicker than that.

Of course, wood chippers are among the more dangerous tools that are easily available to anyone with enough money to buy one or enough skill to build one, along with chainsaws, angle grinders, and table saws, so make sure to take appropriate safety precautions when using or building any of these things. Of course, knowing the dangers of these tools have led to people attempting to make safer versions like this self-propelled chainsaw mill or the semi-controversial table saw safety standard.

Thanks to [Keith] for the tip!

Continue reading “A Wood Chipper From First Principles”