Magnesium And Copper Makes An Emergency Flashlight

August 8, 2024 by Lewin Day 17 Comments

Many of us store a flashlight around the house for use in emergency situations. Usually, regular alkaline batteries are fine for this task, as they’ll last a good few years, and you remember to swap them out from time to time. Alternatively, you can make one that lasts virtually indefinitely in storage, and uses some simple chemistry, as [JGJMatt] demonstrates.

The flashlight uses 3D printing to create a custom battery using magnesium and copper as the anode and cathode respectively. Copper tape is wound around a rectangular part to create several cathode plates, while magnesium ribbon is affixed to create the anodes. Cotton wool is then stuffed into the 3D-printed battery housing to serve as a storage medium for the electrolyte—in this case, plain tap water.

The custom battery is paired with a simple LED flashlight circuit in its own 3D-printed housing. The idea is that when a blackout strikes, you can assemble the LED flashlight with your custom battery, and then soak it in water. This will activate the battery, producing around 4.5 V and 20 mA to light the LED.

It’s by no means going to be a bright flashlight, and realistically, it’s probably less reliable than just keeping a a regular battery-powered example around. Particularly given the possibility of your homebrew battery corroding over the years unless it’s kept meticulously dry. But that’s not to say that water-activated batteries don’t have their applications, and anyway it’s a fun project that shows how simple batteries really are at their basic level. Consider it as a useful teaching project if you have children interested in science and electricity!

Benchy In A Bottle

August 6, 2024 by Matthew Carlson 21 Comments

Making something enjoyable often requires a clever trick. It could be a way to cut something funny or abuse some peripheral in a way it was never designed for. Especially good tricks have a funny way of coming up again and again. [DERAILED3D] put a 3d printed benchy in a bottle with one of the best tricks 3d printing has.

The trick is stopping the print part way through and tweaking it. You can add manual supports or throw in some PTFE beads to make a generator. The benchy isn’t the print being paused; the bottle is. The benchy is a standard print, and the bottle is clear resin. Once halfway through, they paused the print, and the benchy was left suspended in the bottle with a bit of wire. Of course, [DERAILED3D] moved quickly as they risked a layer line forming on the delicate resin after a minute or two of pausing. The difficulty and mess of tweaking a gooey half-finished resin print is likely why we haven’t seen many attempts at playing with the trick, but we look forward to more clever hacks as it gets easier.

The real magic is in the post-processing of the bottle to make it look as much like glass as possible. It’s a clever modern twist on the old ship in the bottle that we love. Video after the break.

Continue reading “Benchy In A Bottle” →

Need Many Thin Parts? Try Multi-material Stack Printing

July 27, 2024 by Elliot Williams 9 Comments

Admittedly it’s a bit of a niche application, but if you need lots of flat 3D printed objects, one way to go about it is to print them in a stack and separate them somehow. An old(er) solution is to use a non-extruding “ironing” step between each layer, which makes them easier to pull apart. But another trick is to use the fact that PLA and PETG don’t stick well to each other to your advantage. And thus is born multi-material stack printing. (Video, embedded below the break.)

[Jonathan] wants to print out multiples of his fun Multiboard mounting system backplates, and these are the ideal candidate for stack printing: they’re thin, but otherwise take up the entire build plate. As you’d expect, the main trick is to print thin layers of PETG between the PLA plate layers that you do want. He demonstrates that you can then simply pull them apart.

There are some tricks, though. First is to make two pillars in addition to the plates, which apparently convinces the slicer to not flatten all the layers together. (We don’t really understand why, honestly, but we don’t use Bambu slicer for multi-materials.) The other trick that we expect to be more widely applicable, is that [Jonathan] extrudes the PETG interlayers a little thicker than normally. Because the PETG overflows the lower PLA layer, it physically locks on even though it chemically doesn’t. This probably requires some experimentation.

As multi-material printers get cheaper, we’ve seen a lot more innovative uses for them popping up. And we wouldn’t be so stoked about the topic if there weren’t a variety of hacker projects to make it possible. Most recently, the impressive system from [Armored_Turtle] has caught our eye. Who knows what kind of crazy applications we’ll see in the future? Are you doing multi-material yet?

Continue reading “Need Many Thin Parts? Try Multi-material Stack Printing” →

Electromagnetic Actuator Mimics Muscle

July 26, 2024 by Lewin Day 11 Comments

Most electromagnetic actuators are rotating motors, or some variation on the theme, like servos. However, it’s possible to do linear actuation with electomagnetics, too. [Adrian Perez] demonstrates this with Linette, his design of a linear actuator that he was inspired to build by the structure of our own muscles.

The design uses a coil of copper wire in a 3D-printed plastic housing, surrounded by a claw full of strong magnets. When the coil is activated, the magnets are pulled towards the coil. When the coil is not energized, the magnets fall away. [Adrian] demonstrates the actuator under the control of an Arduino, which switches power to the coil to move it up and down.

He also notes that the design is similar solenoids and voice coil style actuators, though unlike most his uses discrete magnets rather than a single monolithic magnet. It’s possible to get more capacity out of the Linette design through stacking. You can parallelize the actuators to get more pulling force, with neighboring coils sharing the same magnets. Alternatively, you can stack them in series to get longer stroke lengths.

[Adrian] hasn’t put the design to a practical application yet, but we could see multiple uses for robotics or small machines. We’ve seen some other neat DIY magnetic actuators before, too. Video after the break.

3D-Printed RC Drift Car Comes With Smoke Effects

July 25, 2024 by Lewin Day 7 Comments

Drift cars are cool, but they’re also expensive. If you don’t have money for endless tires, fuel, and engine rebuilds, you might like to get involved at the RC scale instead. [Max Imagination] has just the build to get you started.

The design uses 3D printing for the majority of the chassis. Rigidity is front of mind, as is creating the right steering and suspension geometry for smooth, controllable drifts. The drivetrain is 3D-printed too, using plastic gears and universal-joint axles combined with off-the-shelf bearings. Steering is controlled via an off-the-shelf servo, with a brushless motor putting power down to all four wheels. While drifting at full scale is best achieved with rear-wheel-drive, it’s easier to control at the small scale with four driven wheels.

True to the DIY ethos, an Arduino-based RC system is used to drive the steering servo and motor speed controller, with a home-built pistol-grip controller. It also activates a small power supply which runs little humidifier modules, which turn water into a visible vapor for a fun smoke effect. It doesn’t really imitate tire smoke, since it disappears nearly the instant the car moves, but it’s still a neat effect.

It’s a neat build that makes a great starting point for your dive into RC. Meanwhile, if you’re more about speed than getting sideways, we’ve seen a homebrew RC car designed to that end as well. Video after the break. Continue reading “3D-Printed RC Drift Car Comes With Smoke Effects” →

CeraMetal Lets You Print Metal, Cheaply And Easily

July 21, 2024 by Elliot Williams 27 Comments

3D printing metal has been somewhat of a holy grail for the last decade in the hobby 3DP scene. We’ve seen a number of solutions, including using expensive filaments that incorporate metal into the usual plastic. In parallel, we’ve seen ceramic printers, and paste printers in general, coming into their own. What if you combined the two?

You’d get [Leah Buechly] et al’s CeraMetal process, which is the cheapest and most straightforward metal printing method we’ve seen to date. It all starts off with a custom bronze metal clay, made up of 100 g bronze powder, 0.17 g methyl cellulose, 0.33 g xanthan gum, and 9 g water. The water is fine-tuned to get the right consistency, and then it’s extruded and sintered.

The printer in question is an off-the-shelf ceramic printer that appears to use a pressurized clay feed into an auger, and prints on a linen bed. [Leah] had to write a custom slicer firmware that essentially runs in vase mode but incorporates infill as well, because the stop-start of normal slicers wreaked havoc with clay printing.

The part is then buried in activated carbon for support, and fired in a kiln. The result is a 3D printed bronze part on the cheap; the material cost is essentially just the cost of the metal powder and your effort.

We had never heard of metal clay before, but apparently jewelers have been using it for metals other than just bronze. The Metal Clay Academy, from the references section of the paper, is an amazing resource if you want to recreate this at home.

Paste printers are sounding more and more interesting. Obvious applications include printing chocolate and printing pancakes, but now that we’re talking metal parts with reasonably consistent shrinkage, they’ve got our attention.

New Additive Manufacturing Contenders: HIP And Centrifugal Printing

July 20, 2024 by Maya Posch 6 Comments

Additive Manufacturing (AM) is a field of ever-growing importance, with many startups and existing companies seeking to either improve on existing AM technologies or market new approaches. At the RAPID + TCT 2024 tradeshow it seems that we got two more new AM approaches to keep an eye on to see how they develop. These are powder-based Hot Isostatic Pressing (HIP) by Grid Logic and centrifugal 3D printing by Fugo Precision.

Grid Logic demo at RAPID + TCT 2024. (Credit: Ian Wright)

Grid Logic’s HIP uses binder-less powders in sealed containers that are compressed and deposited into a HIP can according to the design being printed, followed by the HIP process. This is a common post-processing step outside of AM as well, but here HIP is used as the primary method in what seems like a budget version of typical powder sintering AM printers. Doubtlessly it won’t be ‘hobbyist cheap’, but it promises to allow for printing ceramic and metal parts with minimal wasted powder, which is a major concern with current powder-based sintering printers.

While Grid Logic’s approach is relatively conservative, Fugo’s Model A printer using centrifugal printing is definitely trying to distinguish itself. It uses 20 lasers which are claimed to achieve 30 µm accuracy in all directions with a speed of 1 mm/minute. It competes with SLA printers, which also means that it works with photopolymers, but rather than messing with FEP film and pesky Earth gravity, it uses a spinning drum to create its own gravitational parameters, along with a built-in parts cleaning and curing system. They claim that this method requires 50% fewer supports while printing much faster than competing commercial SLA printers.

Even if not immediately relevant to AM enthusiasts, it’s good to see new ideas being tried in the hope that they will make AM better for all of us.