Battery Repair By Reverse Engineering

Ryobi is not exactly the Cadillac of cordless tools, but one still has certain expectations when buying a product. For most of us “don’t randomly stop working” is on the list. Ryobi 18-volt battery packs don’t always meet that expectation, but fortunately for the rest of us [Badar Jahangir Kayani] took matters into his own hands and reverse-engineered the pack to find all the common faults– and how to fix them.

[Badar]’s work was specifically on the Ryobi PBP005 18-volt battery packs. He’s reproduced the schematic for them and given a fairly comprehensive troubleshooting guide on his blog. The most common issue (65%) with the large number of batteries he tested had nothing to do with the cells or the circuit, but was the result of some sort of firmware lock.

It isn’t totally clear what caused the firmware to lock the batteries in these cases. We agree with [Badar] that it is probably some kind of glitch in a safety routine. Regardless, if you have one of these batteries that won’t charge and exhibits the characteristic flash pattern (flashing once, then again four times when pushing the battery test button), [Badar] has the fix for you. He actually has the written up the fix for a few flash patterns, but the firmware lockout is the one that needed the most work.

[Badar] took the time to find the J-tag pins hidden on the board, and flash the firmware from the NXP micro-controller that runs the show. Having done that, some snooping and comparison between bricked and working batteries found a single byte difference at a specific hex address. Writing the byte to zero, and refreshing the firmware results in batteries as good as new. At least as good as they were before the firmware lock-down kicked in, anyway.

He also discusses how to deal with unbalanced packs, dead diodes, and more. Thanks to the magic of buying a lot of dead packs on e-Bay, [Badar] was able to tally up the various failure modes; the firmware lockout discussed above was by far the majority of them, at 65%. [Badar]’s work is both comprehensive and impressive, and his blog is worth checking out even if you don’t use the green brand’s batteries. We’ve also embedded his video below if you’d rather watch than read and/or want to help out [Badar] get pennies from YouTube monetization. We really do have to give kudos for providing such a good write up along with the video.

This isn’t the first attempt we’ve seen at tearing into Ryobi batteries. When they’re working, the cheap packs are an excellent source of power for everything from CPap machines to electric bicycles.

Thanks to [Badar] for the tip.

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Open Source Lithium-Titanate Battery Management System

Lithium-titanate (LTO) is an interesting battery chemistry that is akin to Li-ion but uses Li2TiO3 nanocrystals instead of carbon for the anode. This makes LTO cells capable of much faster charging and with better stability characteristics, albeit at the cost of lower energy density. Much like LiFePO4 cells, this makes them interesting for a range of applications where the highest possible energy density isn’t the biggest concern, while providing even more stability and long-term safety.

That said, LTO is uncommon enough that finding a battery management system (BMS) can be a bit of a pain. This is where [Vlastimil Slintak]’s open source LTO BMS project may come in handy, which targets single cell (1S) configurations with the typical LTO cell voltage of around 1.7 – 2.8V, with 3 cells in parallel (1S3P). This particular BMS was designed for low-power applications like Meshtastic nodes, as explained on the accompanying blog post which also covers the entire development and final design in detail.

The BMS design features all the stuff that you’d hope is on there, like under-voltage, over-voltage and over-current protection, with an ATtiny824 MCU providing the brains. Up to 1 A of discharge and charge current is supported, for about 2.4 Watt at average cell voltage. With the triple 1,300 mAh LTO cells in the demonstrated pack you’d have over 9 Wh of capacity, with the connected hardware able to query the BMS over I2C for a range of statistics.

Thanks to [Marcel] for the tip.

Is It Time To Retire The TP4056?

The TP4056 is the default charge-controller chip for any maker or hacker working with lithium batteries. And why not? You can get perfectly-functional knockoffs on handy breakout boards from the usual online sources for pennies. Betteridge’s Law aside, [Lefty Maker] thinks that it may well be time to move on from the TP4056 and spends his latest video telling us why, along with promoting an alternative.

His part of choice is another TI chip, the BQ25185. [Lefty] put together his own charge controller board to show off the capabilities of this chip — including variable under- and over-charge protection voltages. Much of his beef with the TP4056 has less to do with that chip than with the cheap charge modules it comes on: when he crows about the lack of mounting holes and proper USB-PD on the knock-off modules, it occurs to us he could have had those features on his board even if he’d used a TP4056.

On the other hand, the flexibility offered by the BQ25185 is great to future-proof projects in case the dominant battery chemistry changes, or you just change your mind about what sort of battery you want to use. Sure, you’d need to swap a few resistors to set new trigger voltages and charging current, but that beats starting from scratch.

[Lefty Maker] also points out some of the advantages to making your own boards rather than relying on cheap modules. Namely, you can make them however you want. From a longer USB port to indicator LEDs and a built-in battery compartment, this charging board is exactly what [Lefty Maker] wants. Given how cheap custom PCBs are these days, it’s not hard to justify rolling your own.

The same cannot be said of genuine TI silicon, however. While the BQ25185 has a few good features that [Lefty Maker] points out in the video, we’re not sure the added price is worth it. Sure, it’s only a couple bucks, but that’s more than a 300% increase!

We’ve seen other projects pushing alternative charge controllers, but for now the TP4056 reigns as the easy option.

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Buying Large LiFePO4 Batteries: How Cheap Is Too Cheap?

It’s a well-known factoid that batteries keep getting cheaper while capacity increases. That said, as with any market that is full of people who are hunting for that ‘great deal’, there are also many shady sellers who will happily sell you a product that could be very dangerous. Especially in the case of large LiFePO4 (LFP) batteries, considering the sheer amount of energy they can contain. Recently [Will Prowse] nabbed such a $125, 100 Ah battery off Amazon that carries no recognizable manufacturer or brand name.

Cheap and cheerful, and probably won't burn down the place. (Credit: Will Prowse, YouTube)
Cheap and cheerful, and probably won’t burn down the place. (Credit: Will Prowse, YouTube)

If this battery works well, it could be an amazing deal for off-grid and solar-powered applications. Running a battery of tests on the battery, [Will] found that the unit’s BMS featured no over-current protection, happily surging to 400 A, with only over-temperature protection keeping it from melting down during a discharge scenario. Interestingly, under-temperature charge protection also worked on the unit.

After a (safe) teardown of the battery the real discoveries began, with a row of missing cells, the other cells being re-sleeved and thus likely salvaged or rejects. Fascinatingly, another YouTuber did a similar test and found that their (even cheaper) unit was of a much lower capacity (88.9 Ah) than [Will]’s with 98 Ah and featured a completely different BMS to boot. Their unit did however feature something of a brand name, though it’s much more likely that these are all just generic LFP batteries that get re-branded by resellers.

What this means is that these LFP batteries may be cheap, but they come with cells that are likely to be of questionable quality, featuring a BMS that plays it fast and loose with safety. Although [Will] doesn’t outright say that you shouldn’t use these batteries, he does recommend that you install a fuse on it to provide some semblance of over-current protection. Keeping a fire extinguisher at hand might also be a good idea.

Continue reading “Buying Large LiFePO4 Batteries: How Cheap Is Too Cheap?”

A red, cuboid electrochemical cell is in the center of the picture, with a few wires protruding from the front. Tubes run from each side of the cell to a peristaltic pump and tank on each side. The frame holding the pumps and tanks is white 3D printed plastic.

An Open Source Flow Battery

The flow battery is one of the more interesting ideas for grid energy storage – after all, how many batteries combine electron current with fluid current? If you’re interested in trying your hand at building one of these, the scientists behind the Flow Battery Research Collective just released the design and build instructions for a small zinc-iodide flow battery.

The battery consists of a central electrochemical cell, divided into two separated halves, with a reservoir and peristaltic pump on each side to push electrolyte through the cell. The cell uses brass-backed grafoil (compressed graphite sheets) as the current collectors, graphite felt as porous electrodes, and matte photo paper as the separator membrane between the electrolyte chambers. The cell frame itself and the reservoir tanks are 3D printed out of polypropylene for increased chemical resistance, while the supporting frame for the rest of the cell can be printed from any rigid filament.

The cell uses an open source potentiostat to control charge and discharge cycles, and an Arduino to control the peristaltic pumps. The electrolyte itself uses zinc chloride and potassium iodide as the main ingredients. During charge, zinc deposits on the cathode, while iodine and polyhalogen ions form in the anode compartment. During discharge, zinc redissolves in what is now the anode compartment, while the iodine and polyhalogen ions are reduced back to iodides and chlorides. Considering the stains that iodide ions can leave, the researchers do advise testing the cell for leaks with distilled water before filling it with electrolyte.

If you decide to try one of these builds, there’s a forum available to document your progress or ask for advice. This may have the clearest instructions, but it isn’t the only homemade flow cell out there. It’s also possible to make these with very high energy densities.

COTS Components Combine To DIY Solar Power Station

They’re marketed as “Solar Generators” or “Solar Power Stations” but what they are is a nice box with a battery, charge controller, and inverter inside. [DoItYourselfDad] on Youtube decided that since all of those parts are available separately, he could put one together himself.

The project is a nice simple job for a weekend afternoon. (He claims 2 hours.) Because it’s all COTS components, it just a matter of wiring everything together, and sticking into a box.  [DoItYourselfDad] walks his viewers through this process very clearly, including installing a shunt to monitor the battery. (This is the kind of video you could send to your brother-in-law in good conscience.)

Strictly speaking, he didn’t need the shunt, since his fancy LiFePo pack from TimeUSB has one built in with Bluetooth connectivity. Having a dedicated screen is nice, though, as is the ability to charge from wall power or solar, via the two different charge controllers [DoItYourselfDad] includes. If it were our power station, we’d be sure to put in a DC-DC converter for USB-PD functionality, but his use case must be different as he has a 120 V inverter as the only output. That’s the nice thing about doing it yourself, though: you can include all the features you want, and none that you don’t.

We’re not totally sure about his claim that the clear cargo box was chosen because he was inspired by late-90s Macintosh computers, but it’s a perfectly usable case, and the build quality is probably as good as the cheapest options on TEMU.

This project is simple, but it does the job. Have you made a more sophisticated battery box, or other more-impressive project? Don’t cast shade on [DoItYourselfDad]: cast light on your work by letting us know about it!. Continue reading “COTS Components Combine To DIY Solar Power Station”

Save Cells From The Landfill, Get A Power Bank For Your Troubles

A hefty portable power bank is a handy thing to DIY, but one needs to get their hands on a number of matching lithium-ion cells to make it happen. [Chris Doel] points out an easy solution: salvage them from disposable vapes and build a solid 35-cell power bank. Single use devices? Not on his watch!

[Chris] has made it his mission to build useful things like power banks out of cells harvested from disposable vapes. He finds them — hundreds of them — on the ground or in bins (especially after events like music festivals) but has also found that vape shops are more than happy to hand them over if asked. Extracting usable cells is most of the work, and [Chris] has refined safely doing so into an art.

Disposable vapes are in all shapes and sizes, but cells inside are fairly similar.

Many different vapes use the same cell types on the inside, and once one has 35 identical cells in healthy condition it’s just a matter of using a compatible 3D-printed enclosure with two PCBs to connect the cells, and a pre-made board handles the power bank functionality, including recharging.

We’d like to highlight a few design features that strike us as interesting. One is the three little bendy “wings” that cradle each cell, ensuring cells are centered and held snugly even if they aren’t exactly the right size.  Another is the use of spring terminals to avoid the need to solder to individual cells. The PCBs themselves also double as cell balancers, providing a way to passively balance all 35 cells and ensure they are at the same voltage level during initial construction. After the cells are confirmed to be balanced, a solder jumper near each terminal is closed to bypass that functionality for final assembly.

The result is a hefty power bank that can power just about anything, and maybe the best part is that it can be opened and individual cells swapped out as they reach the end of their useful life. With an estimated 260 million disposable vapes thrown in the trash every year in the UK alone, each one containing a rechargeable lithium-ion cell, there’s no shortage of cells for an enterprising hacker willing to put in a bit of work.

Power banks not your thing? [Chris] has also created a DIY e-bike battery using salvaged cells, and that’s a money saver right there.

Learn all about it in the video, embedded below. And if you find yourself curious about what exactly goes on in a lithium-ion battery, let our own Arya Voronova tell you all about it.

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