Lumafield Shows Why Your Cheap 18650 Cells Are Terrible

Lithium-ion cells deliver very high energy densities compared to many other battery technologies, but they bring with them a danger of fire or explosion if they are misused. We’re mostly aware of the battery conditioning requirements to ensure cells stay in a safe condition, but how much do we know about the construction of the cells as a factor? [Lumafield] is an industrial imaging company, and to demonstrate their expertise, they’ve subjected a large number of 18650 cells from different brands to a CT scan.

The construction of an 18650 sees the various layers of the cell rolled up in a spiral inside the metal tube that makes up the cell body. The construction of this “jellyroll” is key to the quality of the cell. [Lumafield’s] conclusions go into detail over the various inconsistencies in this spiral, which can result in cell failure. It’s important that the edges of the spiral be straight and that there is no electrode overhang. Perhaps unsurprisingly, they find that cheap no-name cells are poorly constructed and more likely to fail, but it’s also interesting to note that these low-quality cells also have fewer layers in their spiral.

We hope that none of you see more of the inside of a cell in real life than you have to, as they’re best left alone, but this report certainly sheds some light as to what’s going on inside a cell. Of course, even the best cells can still be dangerous without protection.

Calculator Battery Mod Lets You Go The Distance

Disposable batteries seem so 1990s. Sure, it’s nice to be able to spend a couple of bucks at the drugstore and get a flashlight or TV remote back in the game, but when the device is a daily driver, rechargeable batteries sure seem to make more financial sense. Unfortunately, what makes sense to the end user doesn’t always make sense to manufacturers, so rolling your own rechargeable calculator battery pack might be your best option.

This slick hack comes to us from [Magmabow], who uses a Casio FXCG50 calculator, a known battery hog. With regular use, it goes through a set of four alkaline AA batteries every couple of months, which adds up quickly. In search of a visually clean build, [Magmabow] based the build around the biggest LiPo pillow-pack he could find that would fit inside the empty battery compartment, and planned to tap into the calculator’s existing USB port for charging. A custom PCB provides charging control and boosts the nominal 3.7-volt output of the battery to the 5-ish volts the calculator wants to see. The PCB design is quite clever; it spans across the battery compartment, with its output feeding directly into the spring contacts normally used for the AAs. A 3D-printed insert keeps the LiPo and the PCB in place inside the battery compartment.

Almost no modifications to the calculator are needed, other than a couple of bodge wires to connect the battery pack to the calculator’s USB port. The downside is that the calculator’s battery status indicator won’t work anymore since the controller will just shut the 5-volt output down when the LiPo is discharged. It seems like there might be a simple fix for that, but implementing it on such a small PCB could be quite a challenge, in which case a calculator with a little more room to work with might be nice. Continue reading “Calculator Battery Mod Lets You Go The Distance”

Reverse-Engineering The Milwaukee M18 Diagnostics Protocol

As is regrettably typical in the cordless tool world, Milwaukee’s M18 batteries are highly proprietary. Consequently, this makes them a welcome target for reverse-engineering of their interfaces and protocols. Most recently the full diagnostic command set for M18 battery packs were reverse-engineered by [ToolScientist] and others, allowing anyone to check useful things like individual cell voltages and a range of statistics without having to crack open the battery case.

These results follow on our previous coverage back in 2023, when the basic interface and poorly checksummed protocol was being explored. At the time basic battery management system (BMS) information could be obtained this way, but now the range of known commands has been massively expanded. This mostly involved just brute-forcing responses from a gaggle of battery pack BMSes.

Interpreting the responses was the next challenge, with responses like cell voltage being deciphered so far, but serial number and the like being harder to determine. As explained in the video below, there are many gotchas that make analyzing these packs significantly harder, such as some reads only working properly if the battery is on a charger, or after an initial read.

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Battery Repair By Reverse Engineering

Ryobi is not exactly the Cadillac of cordless tools, but one still has certain expectations when buying a product. For most of us “don’t randomly stop working” is on the list. Ryobi 18-volt battery packs don’t always meet that expectation, but fortunately for the rest of us [Badar Jahangir Kayani] took matters into his own hands and reverse-engineered the pack to find all the common faults– and how to fix them.

[Badar]’s work was specifically on the Ryobi PBP005 18-volt battery packs. He’s reproduced the schematic for them and given a fairly comprehensive troubleshooting guide on his blog. The most common issue (65%) with the large number of batteries he tested had nothing to do with the cells or the circuit, but was the result of some sort of firmware lock.

It isn’t totally clear what caused the firmware to lock the batteries in these cases. We agree with [Badar] that it is probably some kind of glitch in a safety routine. Regardless, if you have one of these batteries that won’t charge and exhibits the characteristic flash pattern (flashing once, then again four times when pushing the battery test button), [Badar] has the fix for you. He actually has the written up the fix for a few flash patterns, but the firmware lockout is the one that needed the most work.

[Badar] took the time to find the J-tag pins hidden on the board, and flash the firmware from the NXP micro-controller that runs the show. Having done that, some snooping and comparison between bricked and working batteries found a single byte difference at a specific hex address. Writing the byte to zero, and refreshing the firmware results in batteries as good as new. At least as good as they were before the firmware lock-down kicked in, anyway.

He also discusses how to deal with unbalanced packs, dead diodes, and more. Thanks to the magic of buying a lot of dead packs on e-Bay, [Badar] was able to tally up the various failure modes; the firmware lockout discussed above was by far the majority of them, at 65%. [Badar]’s work is both comprehensive and impressive, and his blog is worth checking out even if you don’t use the green brand’s batteries. We’ve also embedded his video below if you’d rather watch than read and/or want to help out [Badar] get pennies from YouTube monetization. We really do have to give kudos for providing such a good write up along with the video.

This isn’t the first attempt we’ve seen at tearing into Ryobi batteries. When they’re working, the cheap packs are an excellent source of power for everything from CPap machines to electric bicycles.

Thanks to [Badar] for the tip.

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Open Source Lithium-Titanate Battery Management System

Lithium-titanate (LTO) is an interesting battery chemistry that is akin to Li-ion but uses Li2TiO3 nanocrystals instead of carbon for the anode. This makes LTO cells capable of much faster charging and with better stability characteristics, albeit at the cost of lower energy density. Much like LiFePO4 cells, this makes them interesting for a range of applications where the highest possible energy density isn’t the biggest concern, while providing even more stability and long-term safety.

That said, LTO is uncommon enough that finding a battery management system (BMS) can be a bit of a pain. This is where [Vlastimil Slintak]’s open source LTO BMS project may come in handy, which targets single cell (1S) configurations with the typical LTO cell voltage of around 1.7 – 2.8V, with 3 cells in parallel (1S3P). This particular BMS was designed for low-power applications like Meshtastic nodes, as explained on the accompanying blog post which also covers the entire development and final design in detail.

The BMS design features all the stuff that you’d hope is on there, like under-voltage, over-voltage and over-current protection, with an ATtiny824 MCU providing the brains. Up to 1 A of discharge and charge current is supported, for about 2.4 Watt at average cell voltage. With the triple 1,300 mAh LTO cells in the demonstrated pack you’d have over 9 Wh of capacity, with the connected hardware able to query the BMS over I2C for a range of statistics.

Thanks to [Marcel] for the tip.

Is It Time To Retire The TP4056?

The TP4056 is the default charge-controller chip for any maker or hacker working with lithium batteries. And why not? You can get perfectly-functional knockoffs on handy breakout boards from the usual online sources for pennies. Betteridge’s Law aside, [Lefty Maker] thinks that it may well be time to move on from the TP4056 and spends his latest video telling us why, along with promoting an alternative.

His part of choice is another TI chip, the BQ25185. [Lefty] put together his own charge controller board to show off the capabilities of this chip — including variable under- and over-charge protection voltages. Much of his beef with the TP4056 has less to do with that chip than with the cheap charge modules it comes on: when he crows about the lack of mounting holes and proper USB-PD on the knock-off modules, it occurs to us he could have had those features on his board even if he’d used a TP4056.

On the other hand, the flexibility offered by the BQ25185 is great to future-proof projects in case the dominant battery chemistry changes, or you just change your mind about what sort of battery you want to use. Sure, you’d need to swap a few resistors to set new trigger voltages and charging current, but that beats starting from scratch.

[Lefty Maker] also points out some of the advantages to making your own boards rather than relying on cheap modules. Namely, you can make them however you want. From a longer USB port to indicator LEDs and a built-in battery compartment, this charging board is exactly what [Lefty Maker] wants. Given how cheap custom PCBs are these days, it’s not hard to justify rolling your own.

The same cannot be said of genuine TI silicon, however. While the BQ25185 has a few good features that [Lefty Maker] points out in the video, we’re not sure the added price is worth it. Sure, it’s only a couple bucks, but that’s more than a 300% increase!

We’ve seen other projects pushing alternative charge controllers, but for now the TP4056 reigns as the easy option.

Continue reading “Is It Time To Retire The TP4056?”

Buying Large LiFePO4 Batteries: How Cheap Is Too Cheap?

It’s a well-known factoid that batteries keep getting cheaper while capacity increases. That said, as with any market that is full of people who are hunting for that ‘great deal’, there are also many shady sellers who will happily sell you a product that could be very dangerous. Especially in the case of large LiFePO4 (LFP) batteries, considering the sheer amount of energy they can contain. Recently [Will Prowse] nabbed such a $125, 100 Ah battery off Amazon that carries no recognizable manufacturer or brand name.

Cheap and cheerful, and probably won't burn down the place. (Credit: Will Prowse, YouTube)
Cheap and cheerful, and probably won’t burn down the place. (Credit: Will Prowse, YouTube)

If this battery works well, it could be an amazing deal for off-grid and solar-powered applications. Running a battery of tests on the battery, [Will] found that the unit’s BMS featured no over-current protection, happily surging to 400 A, with only over-temperature protection keeping it from melting down during a discharge scenario. Interestingly, under-temperature charge protection also worked on the unit.

After a (safe) teardown of the battery the real discoveries began, with a row of missing cells, the other cells being re-sleeved and thus likely salvaged or rejects. Fascinatingly, another YouTuber did a similar test and found that their (even cheaper) unit was of a much lower capacity (88.9 Ah) than [Will]’s with 98 Ah and featured a completely different BMS to boot. Their unit did however feature something of a brand name, though it’s much more likely that these are all just generic LFP batteries that get re-branded by resellers.

What this means is that these LFP batteries may be cheap, but they come with cells that are likely to be of questionable quality, featuring a BMS that plays it fast and loose with safety. Although [Will] doesn’t outright say that you shouldn’t use these batteries, he does recommend that you install a fuse on it to provide some semblance of over-current protection. Keeping a fire extinguisher at hand might also be a good idea.

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