Lab-grown diamonds in 'cake' form -- before they are processed and polished.

Is It Time For Synthetic Diamonds To Shine?

The process of creating a diamond naturally takes between 1 and 3.3 billion years. Conversely, a lab-grown diamond can now be created in 150 minutes. But despite being an ethical and environmentally-friendly alternative to the real thing, the value of lab-grown diamonds has plummeted in recent years. Manufacturers are doing various things to battle the stigma and increase their value by being carbon neutral and using recycled metals.

About halfway through is where this article gets really interesting. Swiss jeweler LOEV has partnered with lab growers Ammil to produce a line of Swiss-made jewelry by relying on renewable energy sources. 90% comes from hydroelectric power, and the rest comes from solar and biomass generation. Now, on to the process itself.

A lab-grown diamond 'cake' before the excess carbon is lasered away.
You can have your cake and heat it, too.

Growing a diamond starts with a seed — a thin wafer of diamond laser-shaved off of an existing stone, and this is placed in a vacuum chamber and subjected to hydrocarbon gas, high heat (900 to 1200 °C), and pressure.

Then, a microwave beam induces carbon to condense and form a plasma cloud, which crystallizes and forms diamonds. The result is called a ‘cake’ — a couple of diamond blocks. The excess carbon is lasered away, then the cake is processed and polished. This is known as the chemical vapor deposition method (CVD).

There is another method of growing diamonds in a lab, and that’s known as the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method. Here, a small bit of natural diamond is used to seed a chamber filled with carbon, which is then subjected to high pressure and temperatures. The carbon crystallizes around the seed and grows around a millimeter each day.

As the industry evolves, lab-grown diamonds present a sustainable alternative to natural diamonds. But the consumer is always in charge.

Once you’ve got a stone, what then? Just use 3D printing to help create the ring and setting.

Colour Film Processing For The 2020s Hacker

We’re now somewhere over two decades since the mass adoption of digital photography made chemical film obsolete in a very short time, but the older technology remains in use by artists and enthusiasts. There’s no longer a speedy developing service at you local mall though, so unless you don’t mind waiting for one of the few remaining professional labs you’ll be doing it yourself. Black-and-white is relatively straightforward, but colour is another matter. [Jason Koebler] has set up his own colour processing lab, and takes us through the difficult and sometimes frustrating process.

From an exhaustive list of everything required, to a description of the ups and downs of loading a Patterson tank and the vagiuaries of developer chemicals, we certainly recognise quite a bit of his efforts from the Hackaday black-and-white lab. But this is 2024 so there’s a step from days past that’s missing. We no longer print our photos, instead we scan the negatives and process then digitally, and it’s here that some of the good advice lies.

What this piece shows us is that colour developing is certainly achievable even if the results in a home lab can be variable. If you’re up for trying it, you can always automate some of the process.

Desiccants, Tested Side By Side

We’re so used to seeing a little sachet of desiccant drop out of a package when we open it, that we seldom consider these essential substances. But anyone who spends a while around 3D printing soon finds the need for drying their filament, and knowing a bit about the subject becomes of interest. It’s refreshing then to see [Big Clive] do a side-by-side test of a range of commonly available desiccants. Of silica gel, bentonite, easy-cook rice, zeolite, or felight, which is the best? He subjects them to exactly the same conditions over a couple of months, and weighs them to measure their efficiency in absorbing water.

The results are hardly surprising, in that silica gel wins by a country mile. Perhaps the interesting part comes in exploding the rice myth; while the rice does have some desiccant properties, it’s in fact not the best of the bunch despite being the folk remedy for an immersed mobile phone.

Meanwhile, this isn’t the first time we’ve looked at desiccants, in the past we’ve featured activated alumina.

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Low-Cost Cryocooler Pumps Out Cheap DIY Liquid Nitrogen

A word of caution if you’re planning to try this cryocooler method for making liquid nitrogen: not only does it involve toxic and flammable gasses and pressures high enough to turn the works into a bomb, but you’re likely to deplete your rent account with money you’ll shell out for all the copper tubing and fittings. You’ve been warned.

In theory, making liquid nitrogen should be as easy as getting something cold enough that nitrogen in the air condenses. The “cold enough” part is the trick, and it’s where [Hyperspace Pirate]’s cryocooler expertise comes into play. His setup uses recycled compressors from cast-off air conditioners and relies on a mixed-gas Joule-Thomson cycle. He plays with several mixtures of propane, ethylene, methane, argon, and nitrogen, with the best results coming from argon and propane in a 70:30 percent ratio. A regenerative counterflow heat exchanger, where the cooled expanding gas flows over the incoming compressed gas to cool it, does most of the heavy lifting here, and is bolstered by a separate compressor that pre-cools the gas mixture to about -30°C before it enters the regenerative system.

There’s also a third compressor system that pre-cools the nitrogen process gas, which is currently supplied by a tank but will eventually be pulled right from thin air by a pressure swing adsorption system — basically an oxygen concentrator where you keep the nitrogen instead of the oxygen. There are a ton of complications in the finished system, including doodads like oil separators and needle valves to control the flow of liquid nitrogen, plus an Arduino to monitor and control the cycle. It works well enough to produce fun amounts of LN2 on the cheap — about a quarter of the cost of commercially made stuff — with the promise of efficiency gains to come.

It does need to be said that there’s ample room for peril here, especially containing high pressures within copper plumbing. Confidence in one’s brazing skills is a must here, as is proper hydro testing of components. That said, [Hyperspace Pirate] has done some interesting work here, not least of which is keeping expenses for the cryocooler to a minimum.

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The Thermite Process Iron Foundry

The thermite process is a handy way to generate molten iron in the field. It’s the reaction between aluminium metal and iron oxide, which results in aluminium oxide and metallic iron. It’s hot enough that the iron is produced as a liquid, which means it’s most notably used for in-field welding of things such as railway tracks. All this is grist to [Cody’s Lab]’s mill of course, so in the video below the break he attempts to use a thermite reaction in a rough-and-ready foundry, to make a cast-iron frying pan.

Most of the video deals with the construction of the reaction vessel and the mold, for which he makes his own sodium silicate and cures it with carbon dioxide. The thermite mix itself comes from aluminium foil and black iron oxide sand, plus some crushed up drinks cans for good measure.

The result is pretty successful at making a respectable quantity of iron, and his pour goes well enough to make a recognizable frying pan. It has a few bubbles and a slight leak, but it’s good enough to cook an egg. We’re sure his next try will be better. Meanwhile this may produce a purer result, but it’s by no means the only way to produce molten iron on a small scale.

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Watch SLS 3D Printed Parts Become Printed Circuits

[Ben Krasnow] of the Applied Science channel recently released a video demonstrating his process for getting copper-plated traces reliably embedded into sintered nylon powder (SLS) 3D printed parts, and shows off a variety of small test boards with traces for functional circuits embedded directly into them.

Here’s how it works: The SLS 3D printer uses a laser to fuse powdered nylon together layer by layer to make a plastic part. But to the nylon powder, [Ben] has added a small amount of a specific catalyst (copper chromite), so that prints contains this catalyst. Copper chromite is pretty much inert until it gets hit by a laser, but not the same kind of laser that sinters the nylon powder. That means after the object is 3D printed, the object is mostly nylon with a small amount of (inert) copper chromite mixed in. That sets the stage for what comes next.

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Just a pile of strawberries.

Can You Freeze-Dry Strawberries Without A Machine?

Summer has settled upon the northern hemisphere, which means that it’s time for sweet, sweet strawberries to be cheap and plentiful. But would you believe they taste even better in freeze-dried format? I wouldn’t have ever known until I happened to get on a health kick and was looking for new things to eat. I’m not sure I could have picked a more expensive snack, but that’s why we’re here — I wanted to start freeze-drying my own strawberries.

While I could have just dropped a couple grand and bought some kind of freeze-drying contraption, I just don’t have that kind of money. And besides, no good Hackaday article would have come out of that. So I started looking for alternative ways of getting the job done.

Dry Ice Is Nice

Dry ice, sublimating away in a metal measuring cup.
Image via Air Products

Early on in my web crawling on the topic, I came across this Valley Food Storage blog entry that seems to have just about all the information I could possibly want about the various methods of freeze-drying food. The one that caught my eye was the dry ice method, mostly because it’s only supposed to take 24 hours.

Here’s what you do, in a nutshell: wash, hull, and slice the strawberries, then put them in a resealable bag. Leave the bag open so the moisture can evaporate. Put these bags in the bottom of a large Styrofoam cooler, and lay the dry ice on top. Loosely affix the lid and wait 24 hours for the magic to happen.

I still had some questions. Does all the moisture simply evaporate? Or will there be a puddle at the bottom of the cooler that could threaten my tangy, crispy strawberries? One important question: should I break up the dry ice? My local grocer sells it in five-pound blocks, according to their site. The freeze-drying blog suggests doing a pound-for-pound match-up of fruit and dry ice, so I guess I’m freeze-drying five entire pounds of strawberries. Hopefully, this works out and I have tasty treats for a couple of weeks or months. Continue reading “Can You Freeze-Dry Strawberries Without A Machine?”