Decoding A 350 Year Old Coded Message

Usually, a story about hacking a coded message will have some computer element or, at least, a machine like an Enigma. But [Ruth Selman] recently posted a challenge asking if anyone could decrypt an English diplomatic message sent from France in 1670. Turns out, two teams managed it. Well, more accurately, one team of three people managed it, plus another lone cryptographer. If you want to try decoding it yourself, you might want to read [Ruth’s] first post and take a shot at it before reading on further here: there are spoilers below.

No computers or machines were likely used to create the message, although we imagine the codebreakers may have had some mechanized aids. Still, it takes human intuition to pull something like this off. One trick used by the text was the inclusion of letters meant to be thrown out. Because there were an odd number of Qs, and many of them were near the right margin, there was a suspicion that the Qs indicated a throw-away character and an end of line.

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A photo of the camera.

F/0.38 Camera Lens Made With Oil Immersion Microscope Objective

Over on YouTube [Applied Science] shows us how to make an f/0.38 camera lens using an oil immersion microscope objective.

The f-number of a lens indicates how well it will perform in low-light. To calculate the f-number you divide the focal length by the diameter of the aperture. A common f-number is f/1.4 which is generally considered “fast”.

We are told the fastest commercial lens ever used had f/0.7 and was used by Stanley Kubrick to shoot the film Barry Lyndon which was recorded only with candle light.

A microscope objective is a crucial lens that gathers and magnifies light to form an image. It plays a key role in determining the quality and clarity of the final magnified image produced by a microscope.

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Positive Results With Negative Resistance

Try an experiment. Next time you are in a room with someone, ask them to name everything in the room. Only certain kinds of people will say “air” or “light.” For most people, those are just givens, and you don’t think about them unless, for some reason, you don’t have them. Resistance is like that in electronics. You use it constantly, but do you ever think much about what it is? For a resistor, the value in ohms really represents the slope of the line that describes the amount of voltage you’ll see across the component when it carries a certain amount of current. For resistors, that slope is — at least in theory — constant and positive. But [Void Electronics] made a video exploring negative resistance, and it is worth watching, below.

If you haven’t seen negative resistance before, you might wonder how that is possible. Ohm’s law is just a shorthand for calculating the slope of a graph with voltage on the Y axis and current on the X axis. It works because the voltage and current are always zero at the same time, so the slope is (V-0)/(I-0), and we just shorten that to the normal Ohm’s law equation.

But not everything has a linear response to current. Some devices will have different slopes over different current regions. And sometimes that slope can be negative, meaning that an increase in current through the device will cause it to drop less voltage. Of course, this is usually just over a narrow range and, as [Void] points out, most devices don’t specify that parameter on their data sheets. In fact, some transistors won’t even work in the circuit.

The circuit in question in the video below the break is an odd one. It uses two resistors, an LED, and a transistor. But the transistor’s base is left disconnected. No 555 needed. How does it work? Watch the video and you’ll see. There’s even a curve tracer if you don’t like to see hand-drawn graphs.

We’ve looked at negative resistance more than once. There are a few exotic devices, like tunnel diodes, that are explicitly used for the negative resistance property. When the gas in a neon bulb breaks down, you get the same effect. Continue reading “Positive Results With Negative Resistance”

Motors Make The Best Knobs With SimpleFOC

The worst thing about a volume knob is that, having connected it to a computer, it might be wrong: if you’ve manually altered the volume settings somewhere else, the knob’s reading won’t be correct. [I Got Distracted] has a quick tutorial on YouTube showing how to use a BLDC, a hall effect sensor, Pi Pico and the SimpleFOC library to make a knob with active haptic feedback and positioning.

We covered the SimpleFOC library a few years ago, but in case you missed it, it’s, well, a simple library for FOC on all of our favorite microcontrollers, from Arduino to ESP to Pico. FOC stands for field-oriented control, which is a particular way of providing smooth, precise control to BLDCs. (That’s a BrushLess DC motor, if the slightly-odd acronym is new to you.) [I Got Distracted] explains exactly how that works, and shows us just how simple the SimpleFOC project is to use in this video.  Why, they even produce their own motor controllers, for a fully-integrated experience. (You aren’t restricted to that hardware, but it certainly does make things easy.)

The haptic feedback and self-dialing knob make for an easy introductory project, but seeing how quick it hacks together, you can doubtless think of other possibilities. The SimpleFOC controller used in this video is limited to relatively small motors, but if you want to drive hundreds of kilowatts through open source hardware, we’ve covered that, too.  

Arguably, using a motor as a knob isn’t within the design spec, and so could almost qualify for our ongoing Component Abuse Challenge, had [I Got Distracted] thought to enter.

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How Hydraulic Ram Pumps Push Water Uphill With No External Power Input

Imagine you have a natural stream running through a low-lying area on your farm. It’s a great source of fresh water, only you really need it to irrigate some crops sitting at a higher elevation. The area is quite remote from fixed utilities, complicating the problem.

Your first thought might be to grab a commercial off-the-shelf pump of some sort, along with a fancy solar power system to provide the necessary power to run it. But what if there were a type of pump that could do the job with no external power input at all? Enter the hydraulic ram pump.

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Meter Mods Make Radioactive Prospecting More Enjoyable

While we often get a detailed backstory of the projects we cover here at Hackaday, sometimes the genesis of a build is a bit of a mystery. Take [maurycyz]’s radiation survey meter modifications, for instance; we’re not sure why such a thing is needed, but we’re pretty glad we stumbled across it.

To be fair, [maurycyz] does give us a hint of what’s going on here by choosing the classic Ludlum Model 3 to modify. Built like a battleship, these meters would be great for field prospecting except that the standard G-M tube isn’t sensitive to gamma rays, the only kind of radiation likely not to be attenuated by soil. A better choice is a scintillation tube, but those greatly increase the background readings, making it hard to tease a signal from the noise.

To get around this problem and make rockhounding a little more enjoyable, [maurycyz] added a little digital magic to the mostly analog Ludlum. An AVR128 microcontroller taps into the stream of events the meter measures via the scintillation tube, and a little code subtracts the background radiation from the current count rate, translating the difference into an audible tone. This keeps [maurycyz]’s eyes on the rocks rather than on the meter needle, and makes it easier to find weakly radioactive or deeply buried specimens.

If you’re not ready to make the leap to a commercial survey meter, or if you just want to roll your own, we’ve got plenty of examples to choose from, from minimalist to cyberpunkish.

Two pieces of metal are sitting next to each other on a brick, with one edge touching. The copper end of a torch is directing a flame against the metal, and the metal is glowing brightly around the point where the flame contacts it.

Welding With Natural Gas And Oxygen

By virtue of its triple bond, acetylene burns hotter than any other common hydrocarbon when mixed with oxygen, but it isn’t the only flame hot enough for welding. With the assistance of a homemade oxygen concentrator, [Hyperspace Pirate] was able to make a natural gas torch that melts steel, even if welding with the torch remains difficult.

[Hyperspace Pirate] built his oxygen concentrator around a pressure-swing adsorption system, which uses two tanks of a molecular sieve to selectively adsorb and purge nitrogen, leaving behind mostly oxygen. [Hyperspace Pirate] used reverse-osmosis membrane casings as the tanks, solenoid valves to control gas flow, and an Arduino with some MOSFETs to control the timing. For fuel, he used a convenient source of natural gas, already installed in his garage: the water heater’s gas supply. Since the house’s meter regulates the gas down to a fairly low pressure, and the oxygen concentrator doesn’t produce high pressures, the torch didn’t need any inline regulators.

Inline check valves, on the other hand, were very much necessary, a mixture of oxygen and natural gas propagating back along the lines being undesirable for obvious reasons, and flashback arrestors would have been a good addition. [Hyperspace Pirate] built the torch itself out of copper tubing and needle valves, with a 0.9 mm MIG welder tip as the nozzle. Adjusting the gas mixture was mostly a matter of trial and error. With an oxygen-rich flame, it could cut thin metal decently well, but it tended to melt thick pieces more than it cut. On the other hand, even with a neutral flame, the water vapor in the exhaust oxidized steel, which made welding quite difficult, but not impossible.

The oxygen supply by itself was an entertaining tool, turning smoldering pieces of charcoal or steel wool violently incandescent. With the assistance of some steel wool, [Hyperspace Pirate] set a steel tube on fire. With a bit more oxygen, it would probably make an effective thermic lance. If you still want to do your welding with acetylene, he’s also made that before.

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