Casting Shade On “Shade-Tolerant” Solar Panels

Shade is the mortal enemy of solar panels; even a little shade can cause a disproportionate drop in power output. [Alex Beale] reviewed a “revolutionary” shade-tolerant panel by Renology in a video embedded below. The results are fascinating.

While shading large portions of the panels using cardboard to cut off rows of cells, or columns of cells, the shade tolerant panel does very well compared to the standard panel– but when natural, uneven shading is applied to the panel, very little difference is seen between the standard and active panels in [Alex]’s test.  We suspect there must be some active components to keep power flowing around shaded cells in the Renology panel, allowing it to perform well in the cardboard tests. When the whole panel is partially shaded, there’s no routing around it, and it performs normally.

It’s hard to see a real-world case that would justify the extra cost, since most shading doesn’t come with perfect straight-line cutoffs. Especially considering the added cost for this “shade tolerant” technology (roughly double normal panels).

You might see a better boost by cooling your solar panels. Of course you can’t forget to optimize the output with MPPT. It’s possible that a better MPPT setup might have let the Renology panel shine in this video, but we’re not certain. Whatever panels you’re using, though, don’t forget to keep them clean.

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There are a number of metal cylinders displayed in a line. Each cylinder has a rectangular brass plate mounted to each end, and these brass plates stand upright, with the metal cylinders held horizontally between them.

Home-casting Thermoelectric Alloys

If you want to convert heat into electrical power, it’s hard to find a simpler method than a thermoelectric generator. The Seebeck effect means that the junction of two dissimilar conductors will produce a voltage potential when heated, but the same effect also applies to certain alloys, even without a junction. [Simplifier] has been trying to find the best maker-friendly thermoelectric alloys, and recently shared the results of some extensive experimentation.

The experiments investigated a variety of bismuth alloys, and tried to determine the effects of adding lead, antimony, tin, and zinc. [Simplifier] mixed together each alloy in an electric furnace, cast it into a cylindrical mold, machined the resulting rod to a uniform length, and used tin-bismuth solder to connect each end to a brass electrode. To test each composition, one end of the cylinder was cooled with ice while the other was held in boiling water, then resistance was measured under this known temperature gradient. According to the Wiedemann-Franz law, this was enough information to approximate the metal’s thermal conductivity.

Armed with the necessary data, [Simplifier] was able to calculate each alloy’s thermoelectric efficiency coefficient. The results showed some useful information: antimony is a useful additive at about 5% by weight, tin and lead created relatively good thermoelectric materials with opposite polarities, and zinc was useful only to improve the mechanical properties at the expense of efficiency. Even in the best case, the thermoelectric efficiency didn’t exceed 6.9%, which is nonetheless quite respectable for a homemade material.

This project is a great deal more accessible for an amateur than previous thermoelectric material research we’ve covered, and a bit more efficient than another home project we’ve seen. If you just want to get straight to power generation, check out this project.

Lost Foam Aluminium Alloy Casting

[Kelly Coffield] makes intake manifolds for old Ford throttle bodies for fun, demonstrating an excellent technique for making such things in the small shop. The mould patterns are CNC machined from a solid polystyrene block, with all the necessary gates to feed the aluminium into the mould. The principle is to introduce aluminium from a large central runner into the mould structure, which feeds the gates into the mould parts. The various foam mould components are then glued with an extra brace bar at the bottom to strengthen it.

Dip coating with a refractory slurry

The complete structure is then sprayed with surfactant (just plain old soapy water) and dip-coated in a refractory slurry. The surfactant adjusts the coating’s surface tension, preventing bubbles from forming and ruining the surface quality produced by this critical coating step.

Once a satisfactory coating has been applied and hardened, the structure is placed inside a moulding pan fitted with a pneumatic turbine vibrator, to allow sand to be introduced. The vibrations ease the flow of sand into all the nooks and crannies, fully supporting the delicate mould structure against the weight of the metal, and gases produced as the foam burns away. A neat offset pouring cup is then added to the top of the structure and packed in with more sand to stabilise it. It’s a simple setup that can easily be replicated in any hackerspace or backyard for those motivated enough. [Kelly] is using A356 aluminium alloy, but there’s no reason this technique won’t work for other metals.

It was amusing to see [Kelly] demould by just dumping out the whole stack onto the drive and throwing the extracted casting into a snow bank after quenching. We might as well use all that free Midwest winter cooling capacity! After returning to the shop, [Kelly] would typically perform any needed adjustments, such as improving flatness in the press, while the part was in the ‘as cast temper’ condition. We’ll gloss over the admission of cutting the gates off on the table saw! After these adjustments, the part is artificially aged to a T5-like specification, to give it its final strength and machinability properties. There are plenty more videos on this process on the channel, which is well worth a look.

Aluminium casting is nothing new here, here’s a simple way to cast using a 3D printed pattern. But beware, casting aluminum can be hazardous, it does like to burn.

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Print Wave Metal Casting

Direct 3D printing of metal remains out of reach for the hobbyist at the moment, so casting is often the next best thing, particularly given the limitations of 3D printed metals. [Denny] from Shake the Future shows us how to simplify the process with “print wave metal casting.”

The first step of printing a PLA object will seem familiar to any 3D print to metal process, but the main differentiator here is pouring the investment casting on the printer build plate itself. We like how he used some G-code to shake the build plate to help remove bubbles. Once the plaster solidifies, the plastic and mold are placed in the microwave to soften the plastic for removal.

The plaster is dried in an oven (or air fryer) and then [Denny] bolts the mold together for the casting process. Adding a vacuum helps with the surface finish, but you can always polish the metal with a generous helping of elbow grease.

If [Denny] seems familiar, you might remember his very detailed breakdown of microwave casting. We’ve seen plenty of different approaches to metal casting over the years here. Need a part in another material? How about casting concrete or resin?

Thanks to [marble] on the Hackaday Discord for the tip!

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Casting Concrete With A 3D-Printed Mould

We’re accustomed to covering the use of 3D printing in casting, usually as a lost-PLA former in metal casting. That’s not the only use of the technique though, and perhaps one of the simplest is to use a 3D-printed mould for casting concrete. It’s what [ArtByAdrock] is doing in their latest video, casting an ornamental owl model.

The first part of the video below the break deals with the CAD steps necessary to produce the mould, and depending on your CAD proficiency may not be the most interesting part. The process creates a mould with two halves, a pouring hole, and registration points. Then a 3D printer produces it using flexible TPU. The pour is then simplicity itself, using a casting cement mix at a consistency similar to pancake batter. The video shows how a release spray provides easy separation, and the result is a fresh concrete owl and a mould ready for the next pour.

We can see that maybe readers have only so much space in their lives for concrete owls, but this process could be a valuable part of the armoury when it comes to making some less decorative items. It’s not the first time we’ve looked at this type of work.

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Lost Foam Casting In Action

Even though not all of us will do it, many of us are interested in the art of casting metal. It remains a process that’s not out of reach, though, especially for metals such as aluminium whose melting points are reachable with a gas flame. The video below the break takes us through the aluminium casting process by showing us the lost-foam casting of a cylinder head for a BSA Bantam motorcycle.

The foam pattern is CNC milled to shape, and the leftover foam swarf is removed with a hot wire. The pattern is coated with a refractory coating of gypsum slurry, and the whole is set up in a tub packed with sand. We get the impression that the escaping gasses make this a tricky pour without an extra sprue, and indeed, they rate it as not perfect. The cooling fins on the final head are a little ragged, so it won’t be the part that goes on a bike, but we can see with a bit of refining, this process could deliver very good results.

For this pour, they use a gas furnace, but we’ve seen it done with a microwave oven. Usually, you are losing wax, not foam, but the idea is the same.

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Hackaday Podcast Episode 267: Metal Casting, Plasma Cutting, And A Spicy 555

What were some of the best posts on Hackaday last week? Elliot Williams and Al Williams decided there were too many to choose from, but they did take a sampling of the ones that caught their attention. This week’s picks were an eclectic mix of everything from metal casting and plasma cutters to radio astronomy and space telescope budgets. In between? Some basic circuit design, 3D printing, games, dogs, and software tools. Sound confusing? It won’t be, after you listen to this week’s podcast.

Check out the links below if you want to follow along, and as always, tell us what you think about this episode in the comments!

Download an audiophile-quality oxygen-free MP3 file here.

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