Broadcasting GPS On The Local Network To Help Geoclue Find You

May 8, 2026 by 12 Comments

Rather than having users go through the inconvenience of having to punch in their current location, an increasing number of applications and websites use location services that can pin-point the current location of a user to within a certain number of meters or kilometers.

Unfortunately, [Evert Pot] found that with the demise of the Mozilla Location Service (MLS) in 2024, accuracy of the Linux Geoclue service had dropped to a resolution of about 25 km. Since a LAN tends to not move around a lot, this seemed like the perfect time to help Geoclue out with a local GPS server.

All that Geoclue looks for on the LAN is an mDNS service identifying as _nmea-0183._tcp that responds with the GPS coordinates as network packets containing an ASCII payload encoded using the NMEA 0183 standard. With this knowledge [Evert] was then able to quickly put together a Python-based server that simply blasts the static GPS coordinates of the LAN in question.

With the service running, Gnome Maps and Firefox with Google Maps both displayed the right location down to the house, as can be seen in the screenshots. With the same LAN service and a Mac system there was no such luck with Apple Maps unless Location Services was turned off, though presumably Apple uses its own equivalent to MLS.

Clear Resin Casting Replicates Old Acrylic For Selectric Repair

March 10, 2026 by 23 Comments

IBM Selectric typewriters have a lot of unique parts that can be tricky to source, but one we didn’t think of was the clear acrylic(?) dust covers, that are apparently very hard to find in good shape. [Eric Strebel] has a few Selectrics that all have issues with these parts. While you could come close to recreating this piece with acrylic sheeting carefully bent to match the original shape, [Eric] has a different hammer to try in a new video: replicating it with a resin casting.

He uses de-gassed tin-cure silicone to create a mold for the original, with a bit of 3D printed PLA and foam board to hold the silicone to create the mold. That’s done in two steps to create a two-part mold, which is separated and cleaned before the resin goes in. The original part is actually a smoky plastic, rather than fully clear, but [Eric] is able to match it perfectly using a colourant in his clear ̶e̶p̶o̶x̶y̶ polyurethane resin. The resin is put into the mold with a simple gravity pour, though he does have a vibrator on it to help it flow. Curing is done under heat and pressure– 60 PSI. The results are amazing; once he adds a touch of paint to match the black finish on one face of the original, it’s very difficult to tell [Eric]’s casting from his master piece, except that the cast replicas are in better shape.

This particular part works very well for casting and not much else. While you could match the large curve by heat-bending a piece of smoky acrylic, there are lips along the edges of the part that would be tricky to reproduce. [Eric] also needed several, for his multiple typewriters, and this method is very efficient at producing multiple units since the mold is reusable.

While you might not have an IBM Selectric that needs a dust cover, this technique is equally applicable to all sorts of clear shapes. If you’re new to resin casting, we have a handy guide to replicating plastic parts to get you started in this kind of work. It’s not just large parts that can be replicated: you can even copy phonograph records, such is the fidelity of resin casting.

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NaCl Casting Technique Really Earns Its Salt

February 28, 2026 by 18 Comments

Sodium Chloride has a melting point of 801 C (1,474 F), putting it comfortably between commonly-cast materials like aluminum and bronze. Which led to [Robinson Foundry] asking the question: can you cast salt like a metal? The answer, surprisingly, was yes!

[Robinson] tries casting the salt with two different methods: like it was glass, and like it was metal. In the glass-like casting, he packs a ceramic mold with salt and tosses it into an electric kiln, there to melt and very slowly cool. In metal-like casting, he just tosses salt into a crucible and melts it in the same beer-can kiln we saw when we featured his lost-pla casting a while back. The molten salt is poured very carefully into sand casting molds. If you’re familiar with the technique, you can skip to about 5:20 when he does the reveal.

As it turns out, the sand casting works out much better. While the glass-style casting in the electric kiln grew much larger crystals and so is more translucent, it’s also stuck completely inside the porous ceramic. Perhaps the ceramic would need glazed to pull off that technique?

On the other hand, the sand reacts with the salt in some way– molten salt isn’t exactly a noble gas, after all–to create a lovely gunmetal finish to the parts. They almost look like metal, though the brittleness gives away the game when he opens the mold to show a dagger in several pieces. For the decorative busts and megalodon teeth in the test, though, it is a great success.

Now, we’re not going to say this video came about because of high metal prices, or comment on what sort of trade policies might be driving up the price of metals like aluminum in the USA, but we do think this a great hack. While salt-based castings are obviously going to have very different physical properties than metal, for decorative work, it creates a lovely finish out of a material that’s cheap as dirt. Hopefully he comes back to the glass-style casting; we would not want to trust that black coating around food, and a salt crystal salt shaker sounds too good to pass up.

The only times we’ve seen molten salt around here is in nuclear reactors, and in homemade batteries, though that first one obviously wasn’t table salt.

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3D Printing And Metal Casting Are A Great Match

December 15, 2025 by 23 Comments

[Chris Borge] has made (and revised) many of his own tools using a combination of 3D printing and common hardware, and recently decided to try metal casting. Having created his own tapping arm, he tries his hand at aluminum casting to create a much more compact version out of metal. His video (embedded below) really shows off the whole process, and [Chris] freely shares his learning experiences in casting his first metal tool.

The result looks great and is considerably smaller in stature than the 3D-printed version. However, the workflow of casting metal parts is very different. The parts are much stronger, but there is a lot of preparation and post-processing involved.

Metal casting deals with molten metal, but the process is otherwise very accessible, and many resources are available to help anyone with a healthy interest.

The key to making good castings is mold preparation. [Chris] uses green sand (a mixture of fine sand and bentonite clay – one source of the latter is ground-up kitty litter) packed tightly around 3D printed parts inside a frame. The packed sand holds its shape while still allowing the original forms to be removed and channels to be cut, creating a two-part mold.

His first-time castings have a rough surface texture, but are perfectly serviceable. After some CNC operations to smooth some faces and drill some holes, the surface imperfections are nothing filing, filler, and paint can’t handle.

To cast molten metal, there really isn’t any way around needing a forge. Or is there? We have seen some enterprising hackers repurpose microwave ovens for this purpose. One can also use a low-temperature alloy like Rose’s Metal, or eschew molten liquid altogether and do cold casting, which uses a mixture of resin and metal powder instead.

The design files for [Chris]’s tapping arm are available from links in the video description, and he also helpfully provides links to videos and resources he found useful. Watch it in the video, embedded just below.

Continue reading “3D Printing And Metal Casting Are A Great Match” →

Casting Metal Tools With Kitchen Appliances

November 18, 2025 by 23 Comments

Perhaps the biggest hurdle to starting a home blacksmithing operating is the forge. There’s really no way around having a forge; somehow the metal has to get hot enough to work. Although we might be imagining huge charcoal- or gas-fired monstrosities, [Shake the Future] has figured out how to use an unmodified, standard microwave oven to get iron hot enough to melt and is using it in his latest video to cast real, working tools with it. (Also available to view on Reddit)

In the past, [Shake the Future] has made a few other things with this setup like an aluminum pencil with a graphite core. This time, though, he’s stepping up the complexity a bit with a working tool. He’s decided to build a miniature bench vice, which uses a screw to move the jaws. He didn’t cast the screw, instead using a standard size screw and nut, but did cast the two other parts of the vice. He first 3D prints the parts in order to make a mold that will withstand the high temperatures of the molten metal. With the mold made he can heat up the iron in the microwave and then pour it, and then with some finish work he has a working tool on his hands.

A microwave isn’t the only kitchen appliance [Shake the Future] has repurposed for his small metalworking shop. He also uses a standard air fryer in order to dry parts quickly. He works almost entirely from the balcony of his apartment so he needs to keep his neighbors in mind while working, and occasionally goes to a nearby parking garage when he has to do something noisy. It’s impressive to see what can be built in such a small space, though. For some of his other work be sure to check out how he makes the crucibles meant for his microwave.

Continue reading “Casting Metal Tools With Kitchen Appliances” →

A man’s hand is shown holding a polished metal billet. The billet has a few voids in the surface, and the surface shows a pattern of lighter lines against the darker metal background.

Casting Meteorite-like Materials

July 29, 2025 by 3 Comments

From the outside, iron meteorites tend to look like formless, rusted lumps of metal, which is why museums often polish and etch sections to show their interior structure. This reveals their Widmanstätten patterns, a latticework structure of parallel iron-nickel intermetallic crystals which forms over millions of years of very slow solidification. Inspired by this, [Electron Impressions] created his own metal composition which forms similar patterns on a much-faster-than-geological time scale.

Witmanstätten patterns form when a meteorite colliding with a planet launches molten iron and nickel into space, where they very slowly solidify. As the mixture cools, it first forms a stable phase called Taenite, then begins to precipitate another phase called Kamacite. Kamacite forms needle-shaped crystals, which when polished show up against the Taenite background. However, such needle-shaped growth only becomes noticeable at a cooling rate of a few degrees per million years, so it’s not really a practical way to make the pattern. Continue reading “Casting Meteorite-like Materials” →

Massive Aluminum Snake Casting Becomes Water Cooling Loop For PC

July 25, 2025 by 5 Comments

Water cooling was once only the preserve of hardcore casemodders and overclockers. Today, it’s pretty routinely used in all sorts of performance PC builds. However, few are using large artistic castings as radiators like [Mac Pierce] is doing. 

The casting itself was inspired on the concept of the ouroboros, the snake which eats its own tail if one remembers correctly. [Mac] built a wooden form to produce a loop approximately 30″ tall and 24″ wide, before carving it into the classic snake design. The mold was then used to produce a hefty sand cast part which weighed in at just over 30 pounds.

The next problem was to figure out how to create a sealed water channel in the casting to use it as a radiator. This was achieved by machining finned cooling channels into the surface of the snake itself. A polycarbonate face plate was then produced to bolt over this, creating a sealed system. [Mac] also had to work hard to find a supply of aluminum-compatible water cooling fittings to ensure he didn’t run into any issues with galvanic corrosion.

The final product worked, and looked great to boot, even if it took many disassembly cycles to fix all the leaks. The blood-red coolant was a nice touch that really complemented the silvery aluminum. CPU temperatures weren’t as good as with a purpose-built PC radiator, but maxed out at 51 C in a heavy load test—servicable for [Mac]’s uses. The final touch was to simply build the rest of the PC to live inside the ouroboros itself—and the results were stunning.

We’ve featured a few good watercooling builds over the years. If you’ve found your own unique way to keep your hardware cool and happy, don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline!