A man’s hand is shown holding a polished metal billet. The billet has a few voids in the surface, and the surface shows a pattern of lighter lines against the darker metal background.

Casting Meteorite-like Materials

July 29, 2025 by Aaron Beckendorf 3 Comments

From the outside, iron meteorites tend to look like formless, rusted lumps of metal, which is why museums often polish and etch sections to show their interior structure. This reveals their Widmanstätten patterns, a latticework structure of parallel iron-nickel intermetallic crystals which forms over millions of years of very slow solidification. Inspired by this, [Electron Impressions] created his own metal composition which forms similar patterns on a much-faster-than-geological time scale.

Witmanstätten patterns form when a meteorite colliding with a planet launches molten iron and nickel into space, where they very slowly solidify. As the mixture cools, it first forms a stable phase called Taenite, then begins to precipitate another phase called Kamacite. Kamacite forms needle-shaped crystals, which when polished show up against the Taenite background. However, such needle-shaped growth only becomes noticeable at a cooling rate of a few degrees per million years, so it’s not really a practical way to make the pattern. Continue reading “Casting Meteorite-like Materials” →

Massive Aluminum Snake Casting Becomes Water Cooling Loop For PC

July 25, 2025 by Lewin Day 5 Comments

Water cooling was once only the preserve of hardcore casemodders and overclockers. Today, it’s pretty routinely used in all sorts of performance PC builds. However, few are using large artistic castings as radiators like [Mac Pierce] is doing.

The casting itself was inspired on the concept of the ouroboros, the snake which eats its own tail if one remembers correctly. [Mac] built a wooden form to produce a loop approximately 30″ tall and 24″ wide, before carving it into the classic snake design. The mold was then used to produce a hefty sand cast part which weighed in at just over 30 pounds.

The next problem was to figure out how to create a sealed water channel in the casting to use it as a radiator. This was achieved by machining finned cooling channels into the surface of the snake itself. A polycarbonate face plate was then produced to bolt over this, creating a sealed system. [Mac] also had to work hard to find a supply of aluminum-compatible water cooling fittings to ensure he didn’t run into any issues with galvanic corrosion.

The final product worked, and looked great to boot, even if it took many disassembly cycles to fix all the leaks. The blood-red coolant was a nice touch that really complemented the silvery aluminum. CPU temperatures weren’t as good as with a purpose-built PC radiator, but maxed out at 51 C in a heavy load test—servicable for [Mac]’s uses. The final touch was to simply build the rest of the PC to live inside the ouroboros itself—and the results were stunning.

We’ve featured a few good watercooling builds over the years. If you’ve found your own unique way to keep your hardware cool and happy, don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline!

Casting Time: Exploded Watch In Resin

June 23, 2025 by Matt Varian 12 Comments

We’ve all seen the exploded view of complex things, which CAD makes possible, but it’s much harder to levitate parts in their relative positions in the real world. That, however, is exactly what [fellerts] has done with this wristwatch, frozen in time and place.

Inspired by another great project explaining the workings of a mechanical watch, [fellerts] set out to turn it into reality. First, he had to pick the right watch movement to suspend. He settled on a movement from the early 1900s—complex enough to impress but not too intricate to be impractical. The initial approach was to cast multiple layers that stacked up. However, after several failed attempts, this was ruled out. He found that fishing line was nearly invisible in the resin. With a bit of heat, he could turn it into the straight, transparent standoffs he needed.

Even after figuring out the approach of using fishing line to hold the pieces at the right distance and orientation, there were still four prototypes before mastering all the variables and creating the mesmerizing final product. Be sure to head over to his site and read about his process, discoveries, and techniques. Also, check out some of the other great things we’ve seen done with epoxy in the past.

Spin-Casting This Telescope Mirror In Resin Didn’t Go To Plan

June 3, 2025 by Lewin Day 29 Comments

For most of us, mirrors are something we buy instead of build. However, [Unnecessary Automation] wanted to craft mirrors of his own for a custom telescope build. As it turns out, producing optically-useful mirrors is not exactly easy.

For the telescope build in question, [Unnecessary Automation] needed a concave mirror. Trying to get that sort of shape with glass can be difficult. However, there’s such a thing as a “liquid mirror” where spinning fluid forms into a parabolic-like shape. Thus came the idea to spin liquid resin during curing to try and create a mirror with the right shape.

That didn’t quite work, but it inspired a more advanced setup where a spinning bowl and dense glycerine fluid was used to craft a silicone mold with a convex shape. This could then be used to produce a resin-based mirror in a relatively stationary fashion. From there, it was just necessary to plate a shiny metal layer on to the final part to create the mirror effect. Unfortunately, the end result was too messy to use as a viable telescope mirror, but we learn a lot about what didn’t work along the way.

The video is a great journey of trial and error. Sometimes, figuring out how to do something is the fun part of a project, even if you don’t always succeed. If you’ve got ideas on how to successfully spin cast a quality mirror, drop them in the comments below. We’ve seen others explore mirror making techniques before, too.

Continue reading “Spin-Casting This Telescope Mirror In Resin Didn’t Go To Plan” →

A weather forecast is shown on a blue monochrome cathode ray tube display. It is displaying current conditions, and displays a “The Weather Channel” graphic in the top left corner.

A CRT Display For Retro Weather Forecasting

May 31, 2025 by Aaron Beckendorf 16 Comments

It would be hard to find any electronics still in production which use CRT displays, but for some inscrutable reason it’s easy to find cheap 4-inch CRTs on AliExpress. Not that we’re complaining, of course. Especially when they get picked up for projects like this Retro CRT Weather Display from [Conrad Farnsworth], which recreates the interface of The Weather Channel’s WeatherStar 4000+ in a suitably 90s-styled format.

The CRT itself takes up most of the space in the enclosure, with the control electronics situated in the base behind the display driver. A Raspberry Pi Zero W provides the necessary processing power, and connects to the CRT through its composite video output.

A custom PCB plugs into the GPIO header on the Raspberry Pi and provides some additional features, such as a rotary encoder for volume and brightness display, a control button, a serial UART interface, and a speaker driver. The design still has one or two caveats: it’s designed to powered by USB, but [Conrad] notes that it draws more current than USB 2.0 can provide, though USB-C should be able to keep up.

On the software side, a Python program displays a cycle of three slides: local weather, regional weather, and a radar display. For the local and regional weather display graphics, [Conrad] created a static background image containing most of the graphics, and the program only generated the dynamic components. For the radar display, the regional map’s outlines come from Natural Earth, and a Python program overlays radar data on them.

We’ve seen other attempts at recreating the unique style of the WeatherStar system, but nothing quite beats the real thing.
Continue reading “A CRT Display For Retro Weather Forecasting” →

Casting Shade On “Shade-Tolerant” Solar Panels

May 18, 2025 by Tyler August 32 Comments

Shade is the mortal enemy of solar panels; even a little shade can cause a disproportionate drop in power output. [Alex Beale] reviewed a “revolutionary” shade-tolerant panel by Renology in a video embedded below. The results are fascinating.

While shading large portions of the panels using cardboard to cut off rows of cells, or columns of cells, the shade tolerant panel does very well compared to the standard panel– but when natural, uneven shading is applied to the panel, very little difference is seen between the standard and active panels in [Alex]’s test. We suspect there must be some active components to keep power flowing around shaded cells in the Renology panel, allowing it to perform well in the cardboard tests. When the whole panel is partially shaded, there’s no routing around it, and it performs normally.

It’s hard to see a real-world case that would justify the extra cost, since most shading doesn’t come with perfect straight-line cutoffs. Especially considering the added cost for this “shade tolerant” technology (roughly double normal panels).

You might see a better boost by cooling your solar panels. Of course you can’t forget to optimize the output with MPPT. It’s possible that a better MPPT setup might have let the Renology panel shine in this video, but we’re not certain. Whatever panels you’re using, though, don’t forget to keep them clean.

Continue reading “Casting Shade On “Shade-Tolerant” Solar Panels” →

There are a number of metal cylinders displayed in a line. Each cylinder has a rectangular brass plate mounted to each end, and these brass plates stand upright, with the metal cylinders held horizontally between them.

Home-casting Thermoelectric Alloys

May 16, 2025 by Aaron Beckendorf 4 Comments

If you want to convert heat into electrical power, it’s hard to find a simpler method than a thermoelectric generator. The Seebeck effect means that the junction of two dissimilar conductors will produce a voltage potential when heated, but the same effect also applies to certain alloys, even without a junction. [Simplifier] has been trying to find the best maker-friendly thermoelectric alloys, and recently shared the results of some extensive experimentation.

The experiments investigated a variety of bismuth alloys, and tried to determine the effects of adding lead, antimony, tin, and zinc. [Simplifier] mixed together each alloy in an electric furnace, cast it into a cylindrical mold, machined the resulting rod to a uniform length, and used tin-bismuth solder to connect each end to a brass electrode. To test each composition, one end of the cylinder was cooled with ice while the other was held in boiling water, then resistance was measured under this known temperature gradient. According to the Wiedemann-Franz law, this was enough information to approximate the metal’s thermal conductivity.

Armed with the necessary data, [Simplifier] was able to calculate each alloy’s thermoelectric efficiency coefficient. The results showed some useful information: antimony is a useful additive at about 5% by weight, tin and lead created relatively good thermoelectric materials with opposite polarities, and zinc was useful only to improve the mechanical properties at the expense of efficiency. Even in the best case, the thermoelectric efficiency didn’t exceed 6.9%, which is nonetheless quite respectable for a homemade material.