Avocado Harvester Is A Cut Above

For a farmer or gardener, fruit trees offer a way to make food (and sometimes money) with a minimum of effort, especially when compared to growing annual vegetables. Mature trees can be fairly self-sufficient, and may only need to be pruned once a year if at all. But getting the fruit down from these heights can be a challenge, even if it is on average less work than managing vegetable crops. [Kladrie] created this avocado snipper to help with the harvest of this crop.

Compounding the problem for avocados, even compared to other types of fruit, is their inscrutable ripeness schedule. Some have suggested that cutting the avocados out of the trees rather than pulling them is a way to help solve this issue as well, so [Kladrie] modified a pair of standard garden shears to mount on top of a long pole. A string is passed through the handle so that the user can operate them from the ground, and a small basket catches the fruit before it can plummet to the Earth. A 3D-printed guide helps ensure that the operator can reliable snip the avocados off of the tree on the first try without having to flail about with the pole and hope for the best, and the part holds the basket to the pole as well.

For those living in more northern climates, this design is similar to many tools made for harvesting apples, but the addition of the guide solves a lot of the problems these tools can have which is largely that it’s easy to miss the stems on the first try. Another problem with pulling the fruits off the tree, regardless of species, is that they can sometimes fling off of their branches in unpredictable ways which the snipping tool solves as well. Although it might not work well for avocados, if you end up using this tool for apples we also have a suggestion for what to do with them next.

Butta Melta Stops Rock-solid Butter From Tearing Your Toast

Ever ruin a perfectly serviceable piece of toast by trying (and failing) to spread a little pat of rock-solid butter? [John Dingley] doesn’t! Not since he created the Butta Melta to cozily snug a single butter serving right up against a warm beverage, softening it just enough to get nice and spreadable. Just insert one of those foil-wrapped pats of butter into the Melta, hang its chin on the edge of your mug, and you’ll have evenly softened butter in no time.

The Butta Melta is intentionally designed with a bit of personality, but also has features we think are worth highlighting. One is the way it’s clearly designed with 3D printing in mind, making it an easy print on just about any machine in no time at all. The second is the presence of the hinge point which really helps the Butta Melta conform to a variety of cup designs, holding the payload as close as possible to the heat regardless of cup shape. A couple of minutes next to a hot beverage is all it takes for the butter to soften enough to become easily spreadable.

You may remember [John] (aka [XenonJohn]) from his experimental self-balancing scooters, or from a documentary he made about domestic ventilator development during COVID. He taught himself video editing and production to make that, and couldn’t resist using those skills to turn a video demo of the Butta Melta into a mock home shopping style advertisement. Watch it below, embedded just under the page break, then print one and save yourself from the tyranny of torn toast.

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Hide Capacitive Touch Buttons In Your Next 3D Print

Capacitive touch sensors are entirely in the domain of DIY, requiring little more than a carefully-chosen conductive surface and a microcontroller. This led [John Phillips] to ask why not embed such touch buttons directly into a 3D print?

Button locations and labels can be made as part of the 3D print, which is handy.

The process is not much different from that of embedding hardware like magnets or fasteners into 3D prints: one pauses the print at convenient spot, drops in the necessary hardware, then resumes printing. It’s more or less the same for embedding a touch-sensitive button, but [John] has a few tips to make things easier.

[John] suggests using a strip of copper tape, one per touch pad, and embedding it into the print near the surface. His preference is three layers in, putting the copper tape behind 0.6 mm of plastic when using standard 0.20 mm layer heights.

Copper tape makes a good capacitive touch sensor, and the adhesive on the tape helps ensure it stays in place as the 3D printer seals it in on subsequent passes.

Copper tape is also easy to solder to, so [John] leaves a small hole over the copper — enough to stick in a wire and tack it down with the tip of a soldering iron and a blob of solder after the print is complete. It might not be ideal soldering conditions, but if things get a little melty on the back side it’s not the end of the world.

On the software side capacitive touch sensors can be as simple as using an Arduino library for the purpose but [John] rolled his own code, so give it a peek.

This reminds us a bit of another way to get a capacitive touch sensor right up against some plastic: a simple spring can do the trick.

A red, cuboid electrochemical cell is in the center of the picture, with a few wires protruding from the front. Tubes run from each side of the cell to a peristaltic pump and tank on each side. The frame holding the pumps and tanks is white 3D printed plastic.

An Open Source Flow Battery

The flow battery is one of the more interesting ideas for grid energy storage – after all, how many batteries combine electron current with fluid current? If you’re interested in trying your hand at building one of these, the scientists behind the Flow Battery Research Collective just released the design and build instructions for a small zinc-iodide flow battery.

The battery consists of a central electrochemical cell, divided into two separated halves, with a reservoir and peristaltic pump on each side to push electrolyte through the cell. The cell uses brass-backed grafoil (compressed graphite sheets) as the current collectors, graphite felt as porous electrodes, and matte photo paper as the separator membrane between the electrolyte chambers. The cell frame itself and the reservoir tanks are 3D printed out of polypropylene for increased chemical resistance, while the supporting frame for the rest of the cell can be printed from any rigid filament.

The cell uses an open source potentiostat to control charge and discharge cycles, and an Arduino to control the peristaltic pumps. The electrolyte itself uses zinc chloride and potassium iodide as the main ingredients. During charge, zinc deposits on the cathode, while iodine and polyhalogen ions form in the anode compartment. During discharge, zinc redissolves in what is now the anode compartment, while the iodine and polyhalogen ions are reduced back to iodides and chlorides. Considering the stains that iodide ions can leave, the researchers do advise testing the cell for leaks with distilled water before filling it with electrolyte.

If you decide to try one of these builds, there’s a forum available to document your progress or ask for advice. This may have the clearest instructions, but it isn’t the only homemade flow cell out there. It’s also possible to make these with very high energy densities.

Mini Car Racing Game Really Shows Off Multicolor Printing

Quality 3D printing is a common hobbyist tool nowadays, and [wontonnn]’s mini arcade car racing game really shows off how 3D printing can bring parts from functional to fantastic. There are quite a few details we like in [wontonn]’s design, so let’s take a closer look.

The mini mechanical game is one of those treadmill-based car racing games in which the player navigates a little car between an onslaught of belt-borne obstacles. A little DC motor spins things up in a modular side assembly, and a hand-cranked option is available. The player’s car attaches via a magnet to a steering arm; if the player’s car gets knocked off the magnet, game over.

Treadmill belt segments print as large pre-assembled pieces, with ends that snap together without connectors. Belts like this are sometimes tricky, so this is worth keeping in mind should one ever need a similar part. Since there are no external fasteners or hardware to depend on, one could resize it easily to suit their own project purposes.

The finishing touches on the whole assembly look great. It used to be that the sort of colors and lettering seen here would come from a sticker or label, but [wontonn] gets clean lines and colors by raising (or sinking) different parts of the design. The checkerboard pattern, for example, has the light squares raised for printing in a different color.

Electromechanical arcade games have an appeal all their own, being a fusion of both mechanical and electric design that comes together in a special way. Want to make your own? Get inspired by the classic Lunar Lander reimagined, or check out this LEGO treadmill racer that takes an entirely different approach to the concept.

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Lit up coffee table

Smart Coffee Table To Guide Your Commute

One of the simple pleasures of life is enjoying a drive to work… only to get stuck in traffic that you could’ve known about if you just checked before your daily commute. Who are we kidding? There’s almost nothing worse. [Michael Rechtin] saw this as a great opportunity to spruce up his living room with something practical, a coffee table that serves as a traffic map of Cincinnati.

The table itself is fairly standard with mitered joints at the corners and coated in polyurethane. Bolt on a few legs, and you’ve got a coffee table. But the fun comes with the fancy design on top. A CNC-cut map of Cincinnati is laid out under a sheet of glass. Roads and rivers are painted for a nice touch.

Of course, none of the woodcraft is what gets the attention. This is where the LED light show comes in. On top of the map resides an animated display of either road conditions or the other five pre-programmed animations. The animations include color-coded highways or the good ole’ gamer RGB. To control all of the topographic goodness, a Raspberry Pi is included with some power regulation underneath the table. Every minute, the Pi is able to grab live traffic data from the cloud to display on top.

A looker, this project shows how our hacking fun can be integrated directly into our everyday life in more subtle ways. When we want to decorate ourselves, however, we might want to turn to more personal fare. Check out this miniature liquid simulation pendant for some more everyday design.

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Volume Controller Rejects Skeumorphism, Embraces The Physical

The volume slider on our virtual desktops is a skeuomorphic callback to the volume sliders on professional audio equipment on actual, physical desktops. [Maker Vibe] decided that this skeuomorphism was so last century, and made himself a physical audio control box for his PC.

Since he has three audio outputs he needs to consider, the peripheral he creates could conceivably be called a fader. It certainly has that look, anyway: each output is controlled by a volume slider — connected to a linear potentiometer — and a mute button. Seeing a linear potentiometer used for volume control threw us for a second, until we remembered this was for the computer’s volume control, not an actual volume control circuit. The computer’s volume slider already does the logarithmic conversion. A Seeed Studio Xiao ESP32S3 lives at the heart of this thing, emulating a Bluetooth gamepad using a library by LemmingDev. A trio of LEDs round out the electronics to provide an indicator for which audio channels are muted or active.

Those Bluetooth signals are interpreted by a Python script feeding a software called Voicmeeter Banana, because [Maker Vibe] uses Windows, and Redmond’s finest operating system doesn’t expose audio controls in an easily-accessible way. Voicmeeter Banana (and its attendant Python script) takes care of telling Windows what to do. 

The whole setup lives on [Maker Vibe]’s desk in a handsome 3D printed box. He used a Circuit vinyl cutter to cut out masks so he could airbrush different colours onto the print after sanding down the layer lines. That’s another one for the archive of how to make front panels.

If volume sliders aren’t doing it for you, perhaps you’d prefer to control your audio with a conductor’s baton. 

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