A pink sine wave is seen against the black background of an oscilloscope display.

Coping With Disappearing Capacitance In A Buck Converter

Designing a circuit is a lot easier on paper, where components have well-defined values, or lacking that, at least well-defined tolerances. Unfortunately, even keeping percentage tolerances in mind isn’t always enough to make sure that circuits work correctly in the real world, as [Tahmid] demonstrates by diagnosing a buck converter with an oddly strong voltage ripple in the output.

Some voltage ripple is an inherent feature of the buck converter design, but it’s inversely proportional to output capacitance, so most designs include a few smoothing capacitors on the output side. However, at 10 V and a 50% duty cycle, [Tahmit]’s converter had a ripple of 0.75 V, significantly above the predicted variation of 0.45 V. The discrepancy was even greater at 20 V.

The culprit was the effect of higher voltages on the ceramic smoothing capacitors: as the voltage increases, the dielectric barrier in the capacitors becomes less permittive, reducing their capacitance. Fortunately, unlike in the case of electrolytic capacitors, the degradation of ceramic capacitors performance with increasing voltage is usually described in specification sheets, and doesn’t have to be manually measured. After finding the reduced capacitance of his capacitors at 10 V, [Tahmid] calculated a new voltage ripple that was only 14.5% off from the true value.

Anyone who’s had much experience with electronics will have already learned that passive components – particularly capacitors – aren’t as simple as the diagrams make them seem. On the bright side, they are constantly improving.

Homebrew Foil And Oil Caps Change Your Guitar’s Tone

How any string instrument sounds depends on hundreds of factors; even the tiniest details matter. Seemingly inconsequential things like whether the tree that the wood came from grew on the north slope or south slope of a particular valley make a difference, at least to the trained ear. Add electronics into the mix, as with electric guitars, and that’s a whole other level of choices that directly influence the sound.

To experiment with that, [Mark Gutierrez] tried rolling some home-brew capacitors for his electric guitar. The cap in question is part of the guitar’s tone circuit, which along with a potentiometer forms a variable low-pass filter. A rich folklore has developed over the years around these circuits and the best way to implement them, and there are any number of commercially available capacitors with the appropriate mojo you can use, for a price.

[Mark]’s take on the tone cap is made with two narrow strips of regular aluminum foil separated by two wider strips of tissue paper, the kind that finds its way into shirt boxes at Christmas. Each of the foil strips gets wrapped around and crimped to a wire lead before the paper is sandwiched between. The whole thing is rolled up into a loose cylinder and soaked in mineral oil, which serves as a dielectric.

To hold the oily jelly roll together, [Mark] tried both and outer skin of heat-shrink tubing with the ends sealed by hot glue, and a 3D printed cylinder. He also experimented with a wax coating to keep the oily bits contained. The video below shows the build process as well as tests of the homebrew cap against a $28 commercial equivalent. There’s a clear difference in tone compared to switching the cap out of the circuit, as well as an audible difference in tone between the two caps. We’ll leave the discussion of which sounds better to those with more qualified ears; fools rush in, after all.

Whatever you think of the sound, it’s pretty cool that you can make working capacitors so easily. Just remember to mark the outer foil lead, lest you spoil everything.

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Film Capacitors Can Go In The Wrong Way Round? Who Knew!

You can work with a part for many decades, and still learn something new about it. At least we can, and we don’t mind admitting it. Take film capacitors — we all know they aren’t a polarized part like an electrolytic capacitor is, but as [TheDannVal] points out, that doesn’t mean both their leads are the same.

This might sound counterintuitive, but if you consider for a moment their construction it makes sense. A film capacitor is made from two strips of foil with a strip of plastic film between then, rolled up tightly into a cylinder. One of the pieces of foil that forms one side of the capacitor ends up on the outside of the cylinder, and thus forms the shield for the other. Thus if that side isn’t connected to the lower impedance side of whichever circuitry it resides in, it can pick up noise, while the inside strip of foil can not. It’s so obvious when demonstrated, but we have to admit to never having considered it before. Some film capacitors have a line marked on them to denote the connection forming the shield, for those that don’t he provides a couple of methods for detecting it.

The full video is below the break, and maybe you too can now pay attention to your capacitors for lower noise audio circuitry.

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Capacitor Decoupling Chaos, And Why You Should Abandon 100 NF

Everyone knows that the perfect capacitor to decouple the power rails around ICs is a 100 nF ceramic capacitor or equivalent, yet where does this ‘fact’ come from and is it even correct? These are the questions that [Graham] set out to answer once and for all. He starts with an in-depth exploration of the decoupling capacitor (and related) theory. [Graham] then dives into the way that power delivery is affected by the inherent resistance, capacitance, and inductance of traces. This is the problem that decoupling capacitors are supposed to solve.

Effectively, the decoupling capacitor provides a low-impedance path at high frequencies and a high-impedance path at low frequencies. Ideally, a larger value capacitor would be better, but since this is the real world and capacitors have ESL and ESR parameters, we get to look at impedance graphs. This is the part where we can see exactly what decoupling effect everyone’s favorite 100 nano-farad capacitors have, which as it turns out is pretty miserable.

Meanwhile, a 1 µF (ceramic) capacitor will have much better performance, as shown with impedance graphs for MLCC capacitors. As a rule of thumb, a single large decoupling capacitor is better, while two MLCC side-by-side can worsen noise. Naturally, one has to keep in mind that although ‘more capacity is better for decoupling’, there is still such a thing as ‘inrush current’ so don’t go too crazy with putting 1,000 µF decoupling capacitors everywhere.

Building Experience And Circuits For Lithium Capacitors

For the cautious, a good piece of advice is to always wait to buy a new product until after the first model year, whether its cars or consumer electronics or any other major purchase. This gives the manufacturer a year to iron out the kinks and get everything ship shape the second time around. But not everyone is willing to wait on new tech. [Berto] has been interested in lithium capacitors, a fairly new type of super capacitor, and being unwilling to wait on support circuitry schematics to magically show up on the Internet he set about making his own.

The circuit he’s building here is a solar charger for the super capacitor. Being a fairly small device there’s not a lot of current, voltage, or energy, but these are different enough from other types of energy storage devices that it was worth taking a close look and designing something custom. An HT7533 is used for voltage regulation with a Schottky diode preventing return current to the solar cell, and a DW01 circuit is used to make sure that the capacitor doesn’t overcharge.

While the DW01 is made specifically for lithium ion batteries, [Berto] found that it was fairly suitable for this new type of capacitor as well. The capacitor itself is suited for many low-power, embedded applications where a battery might add complexity. Capacitors like this can charge much more rapidly and behave generally more linearly than their chemical cousins, and they aren’t limited to small applications either. For example, this RC plane was converted to run with super capacitors.

Simple PCB Repairs Keep Old Vehicle Out Of The Crusher

For those of us devoted to keeping an older vehicle on the road, the struggle is real. We know that at some point, a part will go bad and we’ll learn that it’s no longer available from the dealer or in the aftermarket, at least at a reasonable cost. We might get lucky and find a replacement at the boneyard, but if not — well, it was nice knowing ya, faithful chariot.

It doesn’t have to be that way, though, at least if the wonky part is one of the many computer modules found in most cars made in the last few decades. Sometimes they can be repaired, as with this engine control module from a Ford F350 pickup. Admittedly, [jeffescortlx] got pretty lucky with this module, which with its trio of obviously defective electrolytics practically diagnosed itself. He also had the advantage of the module’s mid-90s technology, which still relied heavily on through-hole parts, making the repair easier.

Unfortunately, his luck stopped there, as the caps had released the schmoo and corroded quite a few traces on the PCB. Complicating the repair was the conformal coating on everything, a common problem on any electronics used in rough environments. It took a bit of probing and poking to locate all the open traces, which included a mystery trace far away from any of the leaky caps. Magnet wire was used to repair the damaged traces, the caps were replaced with new ones, and everything got a fresh coat of brush-on conformal coating.

Simple though they may be, we really enjoy these successful vehicle module repairs because they give us hope that when the day eventually comes, we’ll stand a chance of being able to perform some repair heroics. And it’s nice to know that something as simple as fixing a dead dashboard cluster can keep a car out of the crusher.

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Exploring Cheap Tantalum Caps Of Mysterious Provenance

We’ve all heard about the perils of counterfeit chips, and more than a few of us have probably been bitten by those scruple-free types who run random chips through a laser marker and foist them off as something they’re not. Honestly, we’ve never understood the business model here — it seems like the counterfeiters spend almost as much time and effort faking chips as they would just getting the real ones. But we digress.

Unfortunately, integrated circuits aren’t the only parts that can be profitably faked, as [Amateur Hardware Repair] shows us with this look at questionable tantalum capacitors. In the market for some tantalums for a repair project, the offerings at AliExpress proved too tempting to resist, despite being advertised alongside 1,000 gram gold bars for $121 each. Wisely, he also ordered samples from more reputable dealers like LCSC, DigiKey, and Mouser, although not at the same improbably low unit price.

It was pretty much clear where this would be going just from the shipping. While the parts houses all shipped their tantalums in Mylar bags with humidity indicators, with all but LCSC including a desiccant pack, the AliExpress package came carefully enrobed in — plastic cling wrap? The Ali tantalums were also physically different from the other parts: they were considerably smaller, the leads seemed a little chowdered up, and the package markings were quite messy and somewhat illegible. But the proof is in the testing, and while all the more expensive parts tested fine in terms of capacitance and equivalent series resistance, the caps of unknown provenance had ESRs in the 30 milliohm range, three to five times what the reputable caps measured.

None of this is to say that there aren’t some screaming deals on marketplaces like AliExpress, Amazon, and eBay, of course. It’s not even necessarily proof that these parts were in fact counterfeit, it could be that they were just surplus parts that hadn’t been stored under controlled conditions. But you get what you pay for, and as noted in the comments below the video, a lot of what you’re paying for at the parts houses is lot tracebility.

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