Printing A Clock Fit For A Pope

When it comes to clockwork, there is a spectrum — some people love the ticking, and some people hate it, while most fall into the broad middle of indifference. Once upon a time, Pope Alexander VII fell into the “hate it” category, and commissioned a silent timepiece from [Fratelli Campani] in 1656. Three hundred seventy years later, [Many Vices] sought out to re-create the mechanism in extruded plastic thanks to the efforts of watchmaker [Carlo G. Croce], who documented his brass recreation in this PDF file and his own videos.

While the archaeology of recreating the mechanism from old photos is interesting, the mechanism itself is the real showpiece. The secret, as you might be able to tell from the photographs, is an eccentric crank escapement that provides continuous movement rather than the traditional anchor escapement whose periodic movements creates the distinctive ‘tick’ and ‘tock’. [Many] tests both in his video so you can hear the difference and see how much power is wasted with the crank escapement, which doesn’t keep going very long.

We wonder if carefully tuning the flywheel he’s using to match the frequency of the swinging pendulum would help a little there. Likewise, his linear-rail-based spring pendulum modification — though it does look awesome and we’d love a train-themed clock using it — doesn’t come close to providing the runtime of traditional clockwork. That’s probably why the anchor escapement persisted for centuries, even if some people and Popes couldn’t stand the tick-tock.

We’ve featured a lot of different 3D printed clocks, from wholly mechanical to electromechanical digital units to even ones based on D20s , so it’s hard to believe that not much more than a decade back, printing a mechanical clock was considered a challenge. Time marches on whether we can hear it or not.

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Recreating Unobtainable Diagnostic Tools For The Jaguar XJ220

If you own a Jaguar XJ220 or the rarer XJR-15, you’re probably not short on money or real estate. You may, however, be finding it hard to lay your hands on a diagnostic tool that is compatible with the ancient Zytek ECU. Thankfully, [Tom Radom], is working to change that. 

As the owner of XJ220 chassis #50, [Tom] was unlucky enough to see the dreaded check engine light come on last year. He was lucky enough to get his hands on an SPD-1039 interface, built to talk to the Zytek ECU that runs the car. However, he was painfully aware that these devices are now incredibly rare and hard to come by, even given the tiny limited market of owners of 1990s Jaguar supercars. Thus, he set about building a replacement.

An initial effort to open up and reverse engineer the Zytek interface failed, mostly because it had been potted rather successfully in silicone. Thus, [Tom] took a new tack. He hooked up a logic analyser between the interface and the car, recording the traffic between the two. This captured data allowed [Tom] to recreate the interface using a FT232RNL bridge to chat to the Zytek engine control unit. There was no attempt to rebuild the software—the original DOS-based diagnostic still runs perfectly fine in an emulator. It was just the hardware interface from a serial port to the car that needed to be recreated.

[Tom] has been building the modules and supplying them to owners of XJ220, XJ220S, and XJR-15 models at no charge. He believes simply having a viable diagnostic tool available will increase the value of these classic cars by more than the costs he incurred to develop the interface. Interested parties can submit their details via webform on Port220.com.

For a modern vehicle, the ECU is everything. Without it, the car doesn’t run. That’s why we’ve seen some heroic fixes to rescue cars and get them back on the road. If you’re doing your own wizardry to talk to cars of the past, don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline.

Introducing The Periodic Table Of US Electrical Receptacles

Although things may seem simple on the North American grid as an end-user if you limit yourself to just 120 VAC and NEMA 1-15 and 5-15 connectors, there is a veritable zoo of different voltages and receptacles out there in the NEMA connector catalogue. Recently [Practical Engineering] decided to not only take a look at how many of these defined standards are actually used, but also put them in a nice periodic table style graphic.

Responsible for these standards is the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA), which as the name says is a collection of manufacturers. Founded in 1926, this US trade association also affects outlet standards in countries like Canada, Mexico, Japan and so on. The caveat here is that compatibility between e.g. a similar looking Japanese 1-15-style plug and a US 1-15 outlet is not guaranteed, even if you ignore voltage and grid frequency differences.

In an ideal world everyone would agree on a set of reasonable connector designs and we could move on, but we live in a world where even today designing your own national connector instead of picking something like the ubiquitous Type F is considered to be reasonable. At least it’s not susceptible to the ‘penny challenge‘ flaw that the NEMA 5-15 connector suffers from, but that’s small comfort.

NEMA connectors are also unique in that they are often polarized, while Type E/F and others rarely are, putting the onus of dealing with AC polarity on the device. This already shows why the NEMA connector diversity exists, as this trade association wanted to have specific connectors for different polarities, different current limits and also the nearly half a dozen of different voltages commonly used throughout the US.

This ‘one connector for a specific combination’ approach means that quite a few of them are not really used in real life, though from a European perspective where you deal with Type C (‘euro plug’) and Type E/F (‘Schuko’)  on ~240 VAC and triple-phase 440 VAC connectors if you run a heavy machine shop or want to fast-charge an EV at home, it’s still a bewildering number of active combinations.

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A man in white and black railroad overalls rides a short one wheel platform suspended between two rail wheels on a steel axle.

Ride The Rails On A OneWheel

The US has tons of abandoned rail, especially in urban environments, so it seems a shame to let it go to waste. [OneWheel] decided to modify one of their boards to ride the rail behind their office.

The stock OneWheel frame was sectioned and CNC cut mounts were placed in the center to raise the motor above the deck. Steel rail wheels sourced from eBay were then attached to an axle run through where the original wheel was mounted in the center. The motor housing was turned down on a lathe for better clearance, and then a bike sprocket was attached to chain drive the train axle.

While not everyone has a hydraulic press and a CNC for that professional look, we don’t see any reason you couldn’t bodge something similar together at home. Be sure to watch [Bradley Gawthrop]’s Supercon talk on the Personal Electric Vehicle Revolution for some ideas on what you need to get started.

Dream of riding the rails yourself? You should checkout this tiny rail riding pod car or this more minimalist example. Definitely make sure you’re riding on a truly abandoned line or get a rail warrant though!

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A 3D Rasterizer For Embedded Devices

Once upon a time, doing graphics on a microcontroller was challenging, to say nothing of the concept of going into three dimensions. But modern microcontrollers are far more powerful, and you might find yourself wanting to do all sorts of graphical wizardry with one. To that end, you might find Jet useful.

Created by [CubeCoders], Jet is a compact 3D rasterizer built for modern chips like the ESP32 and STM32. It’s dependency free, relatively tiny, and is written in C++17 with an eye towards working well on memory-limited platforms. It runs entirely in software, uses only integer arithmetic, and is built around 16-bit RGB565 color — intended to make it easy to use with parts like the ST7796, ILI9488, and other similar displays interfaced via SPI.

As a point of reference, on a ESP32-S3 Jet can render around 650 on-screen triangles (post-culling) at 60 frames per second on a 480×320 display, or 1300 triangles at 30 FPS. The developers note that 3D performance lands somewhere between the Sega 32X and Sega Saturn — not bad for a microcontroller you can buy for under $20. The Wipeout-like demo shows off the capabilities of Jet rather fantastically, we think.

You’d be foolish to expect your next microcontroller project to render Crysis. However, if you want some retro 3D graphics for your next ESP32-based build, you might just consider exploring what Jet can do for you.

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FLOSS Weekly Episode 882 With OSADL: Better Together

This week Jonathan chats with Jan Altenberg of the Open Source Automation Development Lab, a cooperative of nerds that care about Linux and Open Source! Jan and OSADL helped push Real Time Linux across the finish line, are looking at safety critical hardening, and general cooperating to make Open Source and Industry work better together.

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A Cheap And Easy Control Screen For Home Assistant

Home Assistant is a great way to rig up and manage your smart home and its many and varied devices. You can of course control the system from your smartphone or a computer, but you might like to have a dedicated interface too. In that regard, [Max Gramser]’s project may come in handy.

At heart, it’s a Home Assistant control screen that you can lay out yourself. It’s intended to run on ESP32 hardware. Most specifically, it’s built to run on the Cheap Yellow Display which combines an ILI9341 display with an XPT2046 resistive touchscreen, or a Guition ESP32-S3-4848S040, which has a ST7701S RGB display combined with a capacitive GT911 touchscreen. You merely need to load the firmware on to one of these units, and you’ll have a configurable and customizable touchscreen interface for your own Home Assistant setup.

The GUI used is clean, attractive, and flexible. You can have it display weather, time, and date widgets, populate the screen with buttons for activating lights and appliances, or even command a compatible robot vacuum. Whatever you might want to do with Home Assistant, you can almost certainly create a quick control for it on the display so it’s always on the wall, ready to go when you need it.

If you’ve always dreamed of your house having a futuristic control panel like we used to dream of in the 1980s, well… now it’s a reality. You just need to drop a few bucks on a touchscreen ESP32 rig and you’re ready to go. There’s plenty more you can do with a Cheap Yellow Display, too, so don’t hesitate to check out some of the previous builds we’ve featured with it!