A giant pokeball is the best place to hide this holiday season.

Our New Years Wish Is To Hide In A Giant Pokéball

January 1, 2026 by Tyler August 7 Comments

Between the news, the world situation, and the inevitable family stresses that come this time of year, well — one could be excused for feeling a certain amount of envy for those adorable pocket monsters who spend their time hidden away in red-and-white orbs. [carlos3dprint] evidently did, but he didn’t just dream of cozy concave solitude: he made it happen, with 3D printing and way too much post-processing.

Arguably 3D printing is not the ideal technique for such a large build, and even [carlos], despite the 3dprint in his handle, recognized this: the base frame of the sphere is CNC-routed plywood. He tried to use Styrofoam to make a skin, but evidently he’d lost access to the large CNC cutter he’d borrowed for the plywood frame at that point, as he was trying to do the cuts by hand. It still seems like it wouldn’t have be any worse than the little printed blocks from four different printers he eventually hot-stapled into a shell.

We only say that because based on his description of how much resin and filler went into creating a smooth outer surface on his Pokéball, the raw surface of the prints must have been pretty bad before fiberglass was applied. Still, it’s hard to argue with results, and the results are smooth, shiny and beautiful after all the sanding and painting. Could another technique have been easier? Maybe, but we hack with what we have, and [carlos] had 3D printers and knows how to make the best of them.

The interior of the ball is just large enough for a cozy little gaming nook, and no guesses what [carlos] is playing inside. The Instructable linked above doesn’t have many interior photos, though, so you’ll have to check the video (embedded below) for the interior fitting out, or jump to the tour at about the 15 minute mark.

Given ongoing concerns about VOCs from 3D printers, we kind of hope the Bulbsaur-themed printer he’s got in there is decorative, but it’s sure a nice homage to the construction method. Other pokeballs featured on Hackaday have been much smaller, but we’ve always had a soft spot for scaled-up projects.

Continue reading “Our New Years Wish Is To Hide In A Giant Pokéball” →

Bringing A Yagi Antenna To 915MHz LoRa

December 31, 2025 by Tyler August 34 Comments

If you’re a regular reader of Hackaday, you may have noticed a certain fondness for Meshtastic devices, and the LoRa protocol more generally. LoRa is a great, low-power radio communications standards, but sometimes the antennas you get with the modules can leave you wanting more. That’s why [Chris Prioli] at the Gloucester County Amateur Radio Club in the great state of New Jersey have got a Yagi antenna for North America’s 915 MHz LoRa band.

Right out the gate, their article links to one of ours, where [tastes_the_code] builds a Yagi antenna for the European 868 MHz LoRa. Like [tastes_the_code], the radio club found [Chris]’s antenna gives much better reception than what came with the LoRa module. Looking out their window, instead of two Metastatic nodes with a stock antenna, one club member is now connecting to two hundred.

A simulation of the radiation pattern. Looks like a Yagi, alright.

Now, the Yagi is directional, so you only get that boost pointed down the axis of the antenna, but at least in simulation they estimate a 7.7 dB front-to-back gain vs under 3 dB for an omnidirectional antenna. Not bad, for a simple 3D print and some stiff wire!

If you don’t want to re-invent the wheel again, check out the GCARC’s GitHub for files if you’re in North America. If you’re in Europe, check out [taste_the_code]’s build from last year. Of course whatever band you’re operating in, Yagi isn’t your only roll-your-own option for a LoRa antenna.

Thanks to [Jon Pearce WB2MNF] for the tip!

All Projections Suck, So Play Risk On A Globe Instead

December 30, 2025 by Tyler August 11 Comments

The worst thing about the getting people together is when everyone starts fighting over their favourite map projection– maybe you like the Watterman Butterfly, but your cousin really digs Gall-Peters, and that one Uncle who insists on defending Mercator after a couple of beers. Over on Instructables [madkins9] has an answer to that problem that will still let you play a rousing game of Risk– which will surely not drag on into the night and cause further drama– skip the projection, and put the game on a globe.

The pieces are from a 1960s version. The abstract tokens have a certain charm the modern ones lack.

Most globes, being cardboard, aren’t amenable to having game pieces cling to them. [madkins9] thus fabricates a steel globe from a pair of pre-purchased hemispheres. Magnets firmly affixed to the bases of all game pieces allow them to stick firmly to the spherical play surface. In a “learn from my mistakes” moment, [madkins] suggests that if you use two pre-made hemispheres, as he did, you make sure they balance before welding and painting them.

While those of us with less artistic flair might be tempted to try something like a giant eggbot, [madkins] was able to transfer the Risk world map onto his globe by hand. Many coats of urethane mean it should be well protected from the clicking or sliding magnet pieces, no matter how long the game lasts. In another teachable moment, he suggests not using that sealer over sharpie. Good to know.

Once gameplay is finished, the wooden globe stand doubles as a handsome base to hold all the cards and pieces until the next time you want to end friendships over imaginary world domination. Perhaps try a friendly game of Settlers of Catan instead.

PC Watercooling Uses Everything But CNC Machining

December 26, 2025 by Tyler August 1 Comment

Names and labels are difficult. Take this “3D Printed” water-cooling loop by [Visual Thinker] on YouTube. It undeniably uses 3D printing — but it also uses silicone casting and laser-cut acrylic, too. All of these are essential parts, yet only 3D printing gets top billing in his thumbnail. At least the version we saw, anyway; the A/B testing game YouTubers play means that may change.

Perhaps that’s simply due to the contrast with [Visual Thinker]’s last build, where the “distro plate” that acts to plumb most of the coolant was made of layers of CNC-routed acrylic, held water-tight with O-rings. Not wanting to wait for his next build to be fabricated, and not wanting to take up CNC machining himself, [Visual Thinker] fell back on tools many of us have and know: the 3D printer and laser cutter.

In this project, the end plates of the cooling loop are still clear acrylic, but he’s using a laser cutter to shape them. That means he cannot route out gaps for o-rings like in the last project, so that part gets 3D printed. Sort of. Not trusting the seal a 3D printed gasket would be able to give him, [Visual Thinker] opts to use his 3D printer to create a mold to cast a seal in silicone. Or perhaps “injection-mold” would be a better word than cast; he’s using a large syringe to force the degassed silicone into the mold. The end part is three pieces: a 3D printed spacer holding two acrylic plates, with the cast-silicone gasket keeping the whole thing water-tight to at least 50 psi, 10x the operating pressure of his PC.

After that success, he tries replacing the printed spacer with acrylic for a more transparent look. In that version only temporary shims that are used to form the mold are 3D printed at all, and the rest is acrylic. Even if you’re not building a water-cooled art PC, it’s still a great technique to keep in your back pocket for fluid channeling.

In some ways, this technique is the exact opposite of the copper-pipe steampunk builds we’ve featured previously. Those were all about pretty plumbing, while with a distro plate you hardly need pipes at all. Like any water-cooled project, it’ll need a radiator, which could be a hack in and of itself.

Continue reading “PC Watercooling Uses Everything But CNC Machining” →

Twelve Days Of Christmas As Performed By 1980s Speech Chip

December 25, 2025 by Tyler August 5 Comments

In a curious historical twist, the “Twelve days of Christmas” are actually the days of revelry that followed the 25th. The preceding period, Advent, was traditionally a fast, not unlike Lent. When and why a fast became an excuse for chocolate calendars we cannot say, but this historical information is presented to explain that this great hack by [Kevin], making a vintage speech synthesizer chip sing the classic carol will remain relevant at least until January 5th — or perhaps even the 19th, for the Orthodox amongst us.

The chip in question is an SP0256A-AL2, which you may remember from various speech projects for 8-bit computers back in the day. It can talk, after a fashion, by reproducing 56 “allophones” — the sounds that make up English speech — from ROM. Singing, though? We cannot recall much of that back in the day, but then, a talking computer was impressive enough.

As it turns out this is building on an earlier hack [Kevin] did in which he used an Arduino to make the venerable speech chip MIDI controllable. In that project’s write-up it is revealed that a Si5351 programmable clock module is used to give a variable pitch signal to the speech synthesizer. In this way he’s able to get about an octave an a half, which is good enough when the carol in question only spans one octave.

Of course the pitch signal needs to be varied by something and for that the venerable Arduino once again takes the place of an 8-bit computer. In this case it’s pre-programmed, but can also be set up for MIDI control.Of course nothing says you can’t use true retro hardware or a more-capable RP2040 instead of the Amtel chip.

It’s sad to think how much compute power has been wasted this year on AI-generated novelty carols when a little bit of 1980s silicon and some ingenuity can do nearly as good — or better, depending on your tastes. Continue reading “Twelve Days Of Christmas As Performed By 1980s Speech Chip” →

Nixie Tube Dashboard Is Period-Appropriate Hack To Vintage Volvo

December 24, 2025 by Tyler August 10 Comments

There’s no accounting for taste, but it’s hard to argue with The Autopian when they declare that this Nixie tube dash by [David Forbes] is “the coolest speedometer of all time” — well, except to quibble that it’s also the coolest tachometer, temperature gauge, oil pressure indicator, and voltmeter. Yeah, the whole instrument cluster is on [David]’s Volvo PV544 is nixified, and we’re here for it.

He’s using a mixture of tubes here– the big ones in the middle are the speedo and tachometer, while the ovals on either side handle the rest. There’s a microcontroller on the front of the firewall that acts a bit like a modern engine control unit (ECU) — at least for the gauges; it sounds like the Volvo’s engine is stock, and that means carbureted for a car of that vintage.

The idea that this hack could have been done back in the 50s when the car was new just tickles us pink. Though you’d have probably needed enough valves to fill up the boot, as our British friends would say. Translate that to “enough vacuum tubes to fill the trunk” if you’re in one of the rebellious colonies.

We’ve featured [David]’s projects previously, in the form of his wearable video coat. But his best known work is arguably the Nixie Watch, famously the timepiece of choice for Steve Wozniak.

Thanks to [JohnU] for the tip!

All images by Griffin Riley via The Autopian

Breathe Easy While Printing With This VOC Calculator

December 23, 2025 by Tyler August 3 Comments

We love 3D printing here, but we also love clean air, which produces a certain tension. There’s no way around the fact that printing produces various volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and that we don’t want to breathe those any more than necessary. Which VOCs, and how much? Well, [Jere Saikkonen] has created a handy-dandy calculator to help you guesstimate your exposure, or size your ventilation system, at least for FDM printing.

The emissions of most common FDM filaments are well-known by this point, so [Jere] was able to go through the literature and pull out values for different VOCs of concern like styrene and formaldehyde for ABS, PLA, Nylon, HIPS and PVA. We’re a bit disappointed not to see PETG or TPU on there, as those are common hobbyist materials, but this is still a great resource.

If you don’t like the numbers the calculator is spitting out, you can play with the air exchange rate setting to find out just how much extra ventilation you need. The one limitation here is that this assumes equilibrium conditions, which won’t be met save for very large prints. That’s arguably a good thing, since it errs on the side of over- rather than underestimating your exposure.

If you want to ground-truth this calculator, we’ve featured VOC-sensing projects before. If you’re convinced the solution to pollution is dilution, check out some ventilated enclosures. If you don’t want to share chemistry with the neighborhood, perhaps filtration is in order.

Thanks to [Jere] for the tip!