3D Modeling With Paper As An Alternative To 3D Printing

September 13, 2025 by Maya Posch 30 Comments

Manual arrangement of the parts in Pepakura Designer. (Credit: Arvin Podder)

Although these days it would seem that everyone and their pets are running 3D printers to churn out all the models and gadgets that their hearts desire, a more traditional approach to creating physical 3D models is in the form of paper models. These use designs printed on paper sheets that are cut out and assembled using basic glue, but creating these designs is much easier these days, as [Arvin Poddar] demonstrates in a recent article.

The cool part about making these paper models is that you create them from any regular 3D mesh, with any STL or similar file from your favorite 3D printer model site like Printables or Thingiverse being fair game, though [Arvin] notes that reducing mesh faces can be trickier than modelling from scratch. In this case he created the SR-71 model from scratch in Blender, featuring 732 triangles. What the right number of faces is depends on the target paper type and your assembly skills.

Following mesh modelling step is mesh unfolding into a 2D shape, which is where you have a few software options, like the paid-for-but-full-featured Pepakura Designer demonstrated, as well as the ‘Paper Model’ exporter for Blender.

Beyond the software used to create the SR-71 model in the article, the only tools you really need are a color printer, paper, scissor,s and suitable glue. Of course you are always free to use fancier tools than these to print and cut, but the bar here is pretty low for the assembly. Although making functional parts isn’t the goal here, there is a lot to be said for paper models for pure display pieces and to get children interested in 3D modelling.

Reify Your GitHub Commit History With Contrib Cal

September 12, 2025 by John Elliot V 3 Comments

Over on Instructables, [Logan Fouts] shows us the Contrib Cal GitHub desk gadget. This build will allow you to sport your recent GitHub commit activity on your wall or desk with an attractive diffuse light display backed by a 7×4 matrix of multicolor LEDs. Motivate yourself and impress your peers!

This humble project is at the same time multifaceted. You will build a case with 3D printing, make a diffuse screen by gluing and cutting, design a LED matrix PCB using KiCad, solder everything together, and then program it all with Python. The brains of the operation are a Raspberry Pi Zero W.

The Instructables article will run you through the required supplies, help you to print the case, explain how to solder the LEDs, tell how to install the heat-set inserts for high quality screw attachments, explain wiring and power, tell you about how to use the various screws, then tell you about where to get more info and the required software on GitHub: Contrib Cal v2.

Of course this diffuse LED matrix is only one way to display your GitHub progress, you can also Track Your GitHub Activity With This E-Ink Display.

Bambu Lab’s PLA Tough+ Filament: Mostly A Tough Sell

September 9, 2025 by Maya Posch 20 Comments

Beyond the simple world of basic PLA filaments there is a whole wild world of additives that can change this humble material for better or worse. The most common additives here are primarily to add color, but other additives seek to specifically improve certain properties of PLA. For example Bambu Lab’s new PLA Tough+ filament series that [Dr. Igor Gaspar] over at the My Tech Fun YouTube channel had over for reviewing purposes.

According to Bambu Lab’s claims for the filament, it’s supposed to have ‘up to’ double the layer adhesion strength as their basic PLA, while being much more robust when it comes to flexing and ‘taking a beating’. Yet as [Igor] goes through his battery of tests – comparing PLA Tough+ against the basic PLA – the supposedly tough filament is significantly worse in every count. That sad streak lasts until the impact tests, which is where we see a curious set of results – as shown above – as well as [Igor]’s new set of impact testing toys being put through their paces.

Of note is that although the Tough+ variants tested are consistently less brittle than their basic PLA counterparts, the Silver basic PLA variant makes an unexpectedly impressive showing. This is a good example of how color additives can have very positive impacts on a basic polymer like PLA, as well as a good indication that at least Bambu Lab’s Basic PLA in its Silver variant is basically better than Tough+ filaments. Not only does it not require higher printing temperatures, it also doesn’t produce more smelly VOCs, while being overall more robust.

Continue reading “Bambu Lab’s PLA Tough+ Filament: Mostly A Tough Sell” →

The Saga Of Hacking A Bambu X1 Carbon

September 7, 2025 by Fenix Guthrie 34 Comments

Bambu Labs make indisputably excellent printers. However, that excellence comes at the cost of freedom. After a firmware release earlier this year, Bambu printers could only work with Bambu’s own slicer. For [Proper Printing], this was unacceptable, so printer modification was in order.

First on the plate was the pesky Bambu Labs nozzle. They are a pain to replace, and specialty sizes like 1.8mm are nonexistent. To remedy this flaw, a Bambu Labs compatible heat sink, an E3D V6 ring heater, and a heat break assembly are required. The ring heater was needed for clearance with the stock Bambu shroud. With the help of a 3D-printed jig, fresh holes were cut and tapped into the heat sink to make room for the E3D heat break. Some crimping to salvaged connectors and a bit of filing on the heat sink for wire routing, and Bob’s your uncle!

Continue reading “The Saga Of Hacking A Bambu X1 Carbon” →

Camera And ChArUco Keep The Skew Out Of Your 3D Prints

September 6, 2025 by Dan Maloney 20 Comments

Do you or a loved one suffer from distorted 3D prints? Does your laser cutter produce parallelograms instead of rectangles? If so, you might be suffering from CNC skew miscalibration, and you could be entitled to significant compensation for your pain and suffering. Or, in the reality-based world, you could simply fix the problem yourself with this machine-vision skew correction system and get back to work.

If you want to put [Marius Wachtler]’s solution to work for you, it’s probably best to review his earlier work on pressure-advance correction. The tool-mounted endoscopic camera he used in that project is key to this one, but rather than monitoring a test print for optimum pressure settings, he’s using it to detect minor differences in the X-Y feed rates, which can turn what’s supposed to be a 90-degree angle into something else.

The key to detecting these problems is the so-called ChArUco board, which is a hybrid of a standard chess board pattern with ArUco markers added to the white squares. ArUco markers are a little like 2D barcodes in that they encode an identifier in an array of black and white pixels. [Marius] provides a PDF of a ChArUco that can be printed and pasted to a board, along with a skew correction program that analyzes the ChArUco pattern and produces Klipper commands to adjust for any skew detected in the X-Y plane. The video below goes over the basics.

For as clever and useful as ChArUco patterns seem to be, we’re surprised we haven’t seen them used for more than this CNC toolpath visualization project (although we do see the occasional appearance of ArUco). We wonder what other applications there might be for these boards. OpenCV supports it, so let us know what you come up with.

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No Need For Inserts If You’re Prepared To Use Self-Tappers

September 2, 2025 by Jenny List 56 Comments

As the art of 3D printing has refined itself over the years, a few accessories have emerged to take prints to the next level. One of them is the threaded insert, a a piece of machined brass designed to be heat-set into a printed hole in the part. They can be placed by hand with a soldering iron, or for the really cool kids, with a purpose-built press. They look great and they can certainly make assembly of a 3D printed structure very easy, but I’m here to tell you they are not as necessary as they might seem. There’s an alternative I have been using for years which does essentially the same job without the drama. Continue reading “No Need For Inserts If You’re Prepared To Use Self-Tappers” →

Watch Bondo Putty Get Sprayed Onto 3D Prints

August 31, 2025 by Donald Papp 18 Comments

3D prints destined for presentation need smooth surfaces, and that usually means sanding. [Uncle Jessy] came across an idea he decided to try out for himself: spraying Bondo spot putty onto a 3D print. Bondo spot putty comes from a tube, cures quickly, and sands smoothly. It’s commonly used to hide defects and give 3D prints a great finish. Could spraying liquified Bondo putty onto a 3D print save time, or act as a cheat code for hiding layer lines? [Uncle Jessy] decided to find out.

Gaps and larger flaws still need to be filled by hand, but spray application seems to be a big time saver if nothing else.

The first step is to turn the distinctive red putty into something that can be sprayed through a cheap, ten dollar airbrush. That part was as easy as squeezing putty into a cup and mixing in acetone in that-looks-about-right proportions. A little test spray showed everything working as expected, so [Uncle Jessy] used an iron man mask (smooth surfaces on the outside, textured inside) for a trial run.

Spraying the liquified Bondo putty looks about as easy as spraying paint. The distinctive red makes it easy to see coverage, and it cures very rapidly. It’s super easy to quickly give an object an even coating — even in textured and uneven spots — which is an advantage all on its own. To get a truly smooth surface one still needs to do some sanding, but the application itself looks super easy.

Is it worth doing? [Uncle Jessy] says it depends. First of all, aerosolizing Bondo requires attention to be paid to safety. There’s also a fair bit of setup involved (and a bit of mess) so it might not be worth the hassle for small pieces, but for larger objects it seems like a huge time saver. It certainly seems to cover layer lines nicely, but one is still left with a Bondo-coated object in the end that might require additional sanding, so it’s not necessarily a cheat code for a finished product.

If you think the procedure might be useful, check out the video (embedded below) for a walkthrough. Just remember to do it in a well-ventilated area and wear appropriate PPE.

An alternative to applying Bondo is brush application of UV resin, but we’ve also seen interesting results from non-planar ironing.

Continue reading “Watch Bondo Putty Get Sprayed Onto 3D Prints” →