How To Design 3D Printed Pins That Won’t Break

December 1, 2025 by Donald Papp 3 Comments

[Slant 3D] has a useful video explaining some thoughtful CAD techniques for designing 3D printed pins that don’t break and the concepts can be extended to similar features.

Sure, one can make pins stronger simply by upping infill density or increasing the number of perimeters, but those depend on having access to the slicer settings. If someone else is printing a part, that part’s designer has no actual control over these things. So how can one ensure sturdier pins without relying on specific print settings? [Slant 3D] covers two approaches.

The first approach includes making a pin thick, making it short (less leverage for stress), and adding a fillet to the sharp corner where the pin meets the rest of the part. Why? Because a rounded corner spreads stress out, compared to a sharp corner.

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On The Benefits Of Filling 3D Prints With Spray Foam

November 29, 2025 by Maya Posch 27 Comments

Closed-cell self-expanding foam (spray foam) is an amazing material that sees common use in construction. But one application that we hadn’t heard of before was using it to fill the internal voids of 3D printed objects. As argued by [Alex] in a half-baked-research YouTube video, this foam could be very helpful with making sure that printed boats keep floating and water stays out of sensitive electronic bits.

It’s pretty common knowledge by now that 3D printed objects from FDM printers aren’t really watertight. Due to the way that these printers work, there’s plenty of opportunity for small gaps and voids between layers to permit moisture to seep through. This is where the use of this self-expanding foam comes into play, as it’s guaranteed to be watertight. In addition, [Alex] also tests how this affects the strength of the print and using its insulating properties.

The test prints are designed with the requisite port through which the spray foam is injected as well as pressure relief holes. After a 24 hour curing period the excess foam is trimmed. Early testing showed that in order for the foam to cure well inside the part, it needed to be first flushed with water to provide the moisture necessary for the chemical reaction. It’s also essential to have sufficient pressure relief holes, especially for the larger parts, as the expanding foam can cause structural failure.

As for the results, in terms of waterproofing there was some water absorption, likely in the PETG part. But after 28 hours of submerging none of the sample cubes filled up with water. The samples did not get any stronger tensile-wise, but the compression test showed a 25 – 70% increase in resistance to buckling, which is quite significant.

Finally, after tossing some ice cubes into a plain FDM printed box and one filled with foam, it took less than six hours for the ice to melt, compared to the spray foam insulated box which took just under eight hours.

This seems to suggest that adding some of this self-expanding foam to your 3D printed part makes a lot of sense if you want to keep water out, add more compressive strength, or would like to add thermal insulation beyond what FDM infill patterns can provide.

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How To Print PETG As Transparently As Possible

November 29, 2025 by Lewin Day 5 Comments

PETG filament can be had in a variety of colors, just like any other. You can even get translucent or transparent forms if you want to print something vaguely see-through. But if you’re looking for a bit more visually impressive, you might like to pick up a few tips from [Tej Grewal] on making sure your prints come out as clear as possible.

Standard print settings aren’t great for transparency.

It all comes down to pathing of the 3D printer’s hot end. If it’s zigzagging back and forth, laying down hot plastic in all different orientations from layer to layer, you’re going to get a hazy, ugly, result that probably doesn’t look very see-through at all.

However, you can work around this by choosing slicer settings that make the tool pathing more suitable for producing a clearer part. [Tej] recommends going slow — as little as 20 mm/s during printing. He also states that removing top and bottom shells and setting wall loops to 1 can help to produce a part that’s entirely infill. Then, you’ll want to set infill to 100% and the direction to 0 or 90 degrees. This will ensure your hot end is just making long, straight strokes for layer after layer that will best allow light to pass through. You’ll also want to maximize nozzle flow to avoid any unsightly gaps or bubbles in your print.

[Tej] demonstrates the technique by creating a cover for a display. By using the settings in question, he creates a far more transparent plate, compared to the original part that has an ugly zig-zagging haze effect. You’re not going to get something optically clear this way; the final results are more lightly frosted, but still good.

Transparency will never be something 3D printers are great at. However, we have seen some interesting post-processing techniques that will blow your mind in this regard.

Designing PLA To Hold Over A Metric Ton

November 27, 2025 by Ian Bos 12 Comments

There’s never been such a thing as being “too competitive” when it comes to competition. This is something that [Tom Stanton] from “Tim Station”, [Tom]’s 2nd channel, took to heart for Polymaker’s 3D design challenge. The goal was simple: a single 3D printed part to hold as much weight as possible.

While seemingly simple, when considering the requirements, including a single print in addition to being able to open up for the mounts, the challenge gets exponentially more complicated. While the simplest and strongest joint would be a simple oval for uniform stress, this isn’t possible when considering the opening requirements. This creates a need for slightly more creativity.

[Tom] starts out with two flat C-shaped geometries to test his design. The design includes teeth specially placed to allow the forces to increase their own strength as force is applied. Flat features have the unfortunate quality of being able to slide across each other rather easily, which was the case during testing; however, the actual structures held up rather well. Moving onto the final design, including a hollow cavity and a much thicker depth, showed good promise early on in the competition, leading up to the finals. In fact, the design won out over anything else, getting over double the max strength of the runner up. Over an entire metric ton, the piece of plastic proved its abilities far past anything us here at Hackaday would expect from a small piece of PLA.

Design can be an absolute rabbit hole when it comes to even the simplest of things, as shown with this competition. [Tom] clearly showed some personal passion for this project; however, if you haven’t had the chance to dive this deep into CADing, keep sure to try out something like TinkerCAD to get your feet wet. TinkerCAD started out simple as can be but has exploded into quite the formidable suite!

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Stack N’ Rack Your Hardware With The HomeRacker Project

November 27, 2025 by Donald Papp 9 Comments

Things are cooler when rack-mounted, and [KellerLab] aims to make that all far more accessible with the HomeRacker, a modular and 3D-printable rack building system designed to let you rack-mount to your heart’s content. While it can handle big things, it seems especially applicable to tasks like mounting one’s home network equipment and Raspberry Pi machines.

A rack is a great place for those Raspberry Pi servers and home networking equipment, but it can also handle bigger jobs.

The basic system (or core) consists of three different parts: supports, connectors, and lock pins. The supports are the main structural bars, the connectors mostly go at the corners, and the lock pins ensure everything stays put. The nominal sizing is a 15 mm x 15 mm profile for the supports, with lengths being a multiple of 15 mm.

All is designed with 3D printing in mind, and requires no tools to assemble or disassemble. There are design elements we really appreciate, like how parts are printed at an angle, which improves strength while eliminating the need for supports. The lock pins (and the slots into which they go) are designed so that they are effective and will neither rattle nor fall out.

But the core system is just the foundation. There’s plenty of modularity and expansions to handle whatever one may need, from Gridfinity shelves and drawers to various faceplates and other modules. There are some example applications available from [KellerLab]’s HomeRacker models page, like CD shelf, under-desk drawer, or filament rack.

[KellerLab] welcomes any collaboration, so check out the GitHub repository for CAD references and design files.

One last point to make about the value of printing objects like this at an angle: not only can the resulting layer lines provide better strength and reduce or eliminate the need for supports, but printing at an angle can help hide layer lines.

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Rare Filament Makes Weird Benchies

November 20, 2025 by Al Williams 21 Comments

[Zack], in addition to being a snappy dresser, has a thing for strange 3D printing filament. How strange? Well, in a recent video, he looks at filaments that require 445 C. Even the build plate has to be super hot. He also looks at filament that seems like iron, one that makes you think it is rubber, and a bunch of others.

As you might expect, he’s not using a conventional 3D printer. Although you might be able to get your more conventional printer to handle some of these, especially with some hacking. There is filament with carbon fiber, glass fiber, and more exotic add-ons.

Most of the filaments need special code to get everything working. While you might think you can’t print these engineering filaments, it stands to reason that hobby-grade printers are going to get better over time (as they already have). If the day is coming when folks will be able to print any of these on their out-of-the-box printer, we might as well start researching them now.

If you fancy a drinking game, have a shot every time he changes shots and a double when the Hackaday Prize T-shirt shows up.

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Making A Machine To Sort One Million Pounds Of LEGO

November 16, 2025 by John Elliot V 22 Comments

You know what’s not fun? Sorting LEGO. You know what is fun? Making a machine to sort LEGO! That’s what [LegoSpencer] did, and you can watch the machine do its thing in the video below.

[Spencer] runs us through the process: first, quit your day job so you can get a job playing with LEGO; then research what previous work has been done in this area (plenty, it turns out); and then commit to making your own version both reproducible and extensible.

A sorting machine needs three main features: a feeder to dispense one piece at a time, a classifier to decide the type of piece, and a distributor to route the piece to a bin. Of course, the devil is in the details.

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