3d Printer hacks

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The Shutter Makes This 3D Printed Camera Special

August 22, 2026 by 8 Comments

Making a film camera is a project within the reach of almost anyone, from the experimenter with cardboard and sticky tape, to the machinist with an aluminium billet. But 3D printing has opened up the world of cameras to whole new set of experimenters, and we’ve seen some very impressive builds here as a result. For all that, there’s always been a particularly tricky aspect to a home made camera: the shutter. In particular, making one with variable speed has proved almost impossible. Now [Camera Things] has given it a very good shot, with a sliding 3D printed design.

To cock it, both the strips are pulled across, before the blind strip is pushed back, and the shutter operates by sliding back under the influence of a rubber band. The clever part in this case is that the blind strip can be partially pushed back to affect the size of the shutter opening. The effect is then of a variable width strip of light passing over the film, which is equivalent to varying the speed of a conventional shutter.

Due to space constraints he’s only able to make it a half frame shutter, so he’s abandoning this design in favour of a more complicated set of vertical leaves. Sadly he’s not made the files available, but we thing proficient CAD users should be able to make their own version. The video is below the break.

It’s not the first printable shutter we’ve seen, but it remains the first variable one.

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Art of 3D printer in the middle of printing a Hackaday Jolly Wrencher logo

3D Printering: Why Is My PLA So Brittle?

August 20, 2026 by 27 Comments

Over the years poly(lactic acid) (PLA) – also known as polylactide – has become a popular thermoplastic for a variety of reasons. One of these reasons is that it’s easily produced from a renewable resource, i.e. lactic acid, with the resulting polymer even being compostable if you assume that your compost pile hits a steady 65°C or more, well above the polymer’s glass transition temperature (Tg).

That said, PLA by itself is a pretty crummy material, being exceedingly brittle and inferior to common alternatives like PET(G) in many metrics. Over the decades much research has gone into figuring out this material, its amorphous and crystalline states, as well as how to use plasticizers, copolymers, mechanical manipulation and PLLA/PDLA blends to produce more useful variants of PLA.

Today’s spools of thermoplastic filament that gets marketed as ‘PLA’ are the result of such engineering, though with plenty of remaining issues, as anyone who has struggled through a spool of brittle PLA filament can attest to. Although you can find plenty of tips online about how you should ‘just’ toss said spool into an filament dryer, oven or similar to bake it – with accusing fingers pointed at moisture intrusion, hydrolysis and kin – it helps to understand the fundamentals of how PLA works, and how it degrades.

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A Hot End And Material Database For 3D Printing

August 18, 2026 by 17 Comments

When it comes to 3D printing in the FDM world, you can go a long way just relying on standard settings that ship with your 3D printer and/or slicer. If you want to push the limits, though, it pays to better understand the hardware and materials you’re working with to know what you can get away with. To that end, [Robert Samples] put together the MeltCalc database to help. 

The purpose of MeltCalc is simple—it collates data on hot ends and materials regarding factors like maximum flow rate, print speeds, and heater requirements. If you’re wondering whether a given hot end can flow a given filament at a given rate, for example, this tool is a great place to start. It features 64 different hot ends and 36 polymers typically used in the 3D printing world, and can spit out maximum flow rates and print speed estimations even accounting for fancy tech like Core Heating Technology (CHT) nozzles. It’s all based on thermodynamic modelling which [Robert] put together based on his experience as a chemist who works with polymers. His aim was to provide a tool with realistic flow rates for hot ends, so that end users don’t have to just rely on often-optimistic marketing numbers.

For those eager to dive deeper into the code and modelling, the project source is available on Github. We’ve featured all kinds of other useful hacks in this space lately, too, like our recent look at how to achieve wave overhangs. If you’ve got your own nifty 3D printing tools in the works, don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline.

Printing FDM Filaments That Are Just Plain Weird

August 17, 2026 by 18 Comments

The fun thing about thermopolymers like PLA is that you can blend in additives, some of which are necessary to make it at all usable, while so many other additives are either just cosmetic or arguably just plain weird. In a recent video, [Zack Freedman] goes over some of the weirdest ones that he’s come across so far.

These range from the pretty-normal-but-unusual, like CMYK sets of filament for full-color printing, to the rather unusual, like very silky PETG and foamy TPU and TPE, all the way to the WTAF ones, such as Timeplast filaments that can be used as soap as well as fish food.

He also tried a range of filaments that vie for being the blackest filament possible, while others pretend to be paper or are made out of literal landfill trash. Some hit your olfactory senses with a hammer by smelling like all the lemons just got squirted right up into your nose, purportedly to keep flies at bay. There is also pumpkin spice-flavored PLA, for when you really need to make the holidays extra fragrant.

Overall, the range of filaments here is quite dizzying, with some being actually practical, while others are mostly about their green credentials, or about being pretty or having a specific olfactory experience. Whether any of them are for you depends. Do you have a longing for 3D prints that smell like pumpkin spice or are fish food?  We’ve noticed before that [Zack] likes strange filament.

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More On Wave Overhangs For 3D Printing

August 16, 2026 by 5 Comments

We’ve heard of wave overhangs before. It is a new technique for printing horizontal overhangs with no supports. Building on some other techniques like arc overhangs. The idea is to teach the slicer not to try to draw overhangs in the middle of free space. Instead, when the slicer realizes there is a horizontal overhang, it tries to “grow” the overhang from the main part. You can see an overview in the video below.

For example, imagine printing a letter ‘T’ vertically. The stem of the T is no problem, but when you try to print the arms it will normally need support. But if you could just print the arms starting at the stem with slight overlapping, the arms could grow as they hang onto either the stem or the last overhang line.

That makes sense, but it only works for very simple cases. Arc overhangs can fill more complex cases, but suffer from little dimples at the center of each arc. The realization for wave overhangs is to replace the arcs with waves as you would see in a pond. The waves diffract around holes and corners.

Perfect? Not quite. They are still experimenting with settings, but there seems to be some increase in warping. If you want to experiment, you can download a fork of Orca and contribute your results to the community.

We looked at this technique earlier, but we haven’t seen much about it in practice yet. Let us know in the comments if you’ve tried it and how it worked for you. There are more details in the paper on the subject, or you can jump right to the software.

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Laser Layers For (Almost) Isotropicly Strong Prints

August 16, 2026 by 36 Comments

If there’s one defining factor about 3D printing you have to account for when you’re making a design, it’s probably layer adhesion. Sure, there are a lot of factors to consider, but having the z-axis of your part dramatically weaker than x- and y- is a pretty big deal in a whole lot of applications. [I Changed a thing] changed a thing to fix that — namely, he changed his 3D printer by strapping a couple of lasers to it. That’s the kind of hack we like to see!

What the lasers are doing is a very simple idea: they’re pre-melting the last-laid-down-layer just under the nozzle so that molten plastic is meeting molten plastic to create a much stronger joint than you get when you extrude onto an already-cold layer. The second layer keeps the hotspot warmer longer, which also helps the bond. The resulting parts are not purely isotropic, but he’s getting breaking strain along the z-axis of ABS that’s up to 94% of what he’s measuring in the x direction, while PLA still rates at 77.9%. That’s compared to 60% and 41%, for un-lasered samples, respectively. If you watch the video, you’ll get all the details for the printing process and can see more test data.

These lasers look like a game-changer, but their mass might slow down the fast coreXY printers that are so popular these days. If you don’t want to slow down, remember that changing your layer patterns can boost a print’s strength on its own.

Thanks to [Josh Pensel] for the tip!

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Getting Back Into Resin Printing: First Results

August 12, 2026 by 25 Comments

When we last left off, I had just set up a new SLA resin printer and was on the verge of doing the initial round of printing to see just how resin printing in 2026 compares to way back in 2020. Surely SLA printing had to be easier and less fussy than it was in 2020?

During these weeks of printing, setting up printers and taking a gander at the various workflows that certain printers and their manufacturers try to push you into I have both produced a series of not too shabby prints and some delightful spaghetti. I also flipped a few proverbial tables and formed some strong opinions on 3D printing workflows, of which some can considered to be family-friendly.

Without further ado, let’s get into some updates, a bit of ranting, and even some printing results.

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