3D Printed Orrery Runs On A Single Motor

May 1, 2026 by Zoe Skyforest 17 Comments

The solar system is kind of hard to observe in motion all at once. Sometimes, it’s nice to have a little model to look at, so you can see the relative motions of celestial bodies play out in front of you. Such a device is called an orrery, and [illusionmanager] has built rather a nice example of their own.

The build represents all the planets in the solar system, plus the sun and our very own Moon. An ESP32 lives at the heart of the build, running an astronomical simulation to calculate the proper positions of all the celestial objects. It then drives a small stepper motor via a TMC2209 driver, turning the mechanism back and forth until all the pieces are positioned correctly, using a reed switch and magnet to detect the initial zero position. The orrery is able to be driven by a single motor in this manner thanks to an ingenious mechanism, wherein the rings interlock with each other using small tabs. The Moon is controlled by a separate geared mechanism connected to the main rotation.

It’ s a nice decoration that also serves as a great conversation piece, particularly if you like talking about the heavens. We’ve featured some fine works from [illusionmanager] before, too, like this exquisite reverse sundial. Video after the break.

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Recycling PLA And Other Plastic Waste With Compression Molding

April 28, 2026 by Maya Posch 3 Comments

After previously trying out low-tech compression molding with a toaster oven and 3D printed molds, [future things] is back with a video that seeks to explore some of the questions raised after the first video. Questions such as how well this method works with HDPE and PLA thermoplastics, whether the flashing could be cut off by the mold and the right temperatures and times to heat the plastic before a charge is ready for inserting into the mold.

In this video the same PHA-based mold is used, but in a three-piece configuration to allow for a more complex shape. This way game tokens could be made for use by the son of the author, which also shows one straightforward and very practical use of this method.

A big change here is that no more metal chopsticks are used to handle the charge, as this was found to cool down the heated plastic too much. Instead the hot charge is handled with fingers and wooden chopsticks, with the plastic heated until it has about the consistency of thick honey. For LDPE this takes about 5-7 minutes at 130°C. After compressing the charge into the mold, about 30 seconds are all it takes for the plastic to cool down enough.

There was a question about the use of mold release spray, but this didn’t seem to cause any issues, so can probably be used safely. As for other plastic types, HDPE works fine too when you heat it up at a slightly higher temperature and don’t mind it being tougher to handle.

Easiest is probably PLA, which would seem unsurprising. Using some chopped-up PLA printing waste it was easy enough to make a few more game tokens, demonstrating that this method is very viable for converting scrap FDM print waste into such items. As noted in the comments by [edmundchao] this method works great too for PETG, using PETG molds, while using a ratcheting clamp for extra pressure instead of just pressing by hand.

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Can You 3D Print A Pinball Machine That’s Fun To Play?

April 28, 2026 by Maya Posch 8 Comments

It seems fair to say that pinball machines are among the most universally loved gaming systems known today, yet the full-sized ones are both very expensive and very large, while even the good quality table-sized ones tend to be on the expensive side. That raises the question of whether a fully 3D printed pinball machine could at all be fun and not just feel like a cheapo toy? A recent video by [Steven] from [3D Printer Academy] on YouTube makes here a compelling argument that it might actually be worth something to consider.

In addition to being fully modular and customizable the most compelling element is probably that the design supports two- and four-player multiplayer. This sees the metal balls leaving at the rear and from there entering the playing field of another player’s machine, which can probably get pretty chaotic.

Unfortunately this is part of a Kickstarter campaign, so you’ll have to either shell out some cash to get access to the print files or DIY your own version. We’d also be remiss to not address the durability concerns of a 100% plastic pinball machine like this, plus the lack of serious heft to compensate for more enthusiastic playing styles.

If you are more into traditional DIY pinball machines, we have covered these as well, along with small screen-based machines, and their miniature brethren for when space is really at a premium.

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New Slicer Enables Horizontal Overhangs Without Support

April 28, 2026 by Zoe Skyforest 15 Comments

There’s a rule of thumb when it comes to FDM printing that overhangs are really only possible to an angle of around 45 degrees or so. If you try to squirt out plastic with nothing supporting it, it just goes everywhere. However, a new slicer hopes to enable printing up to 90-degree overhangs with some creative techniques.

The software that enables this is called WaveOverhangs, and currently exists as a fork of OrcaSlicer. The idea is straightforward enough — using unique toolpathing to create rings of deposited material that fasten to those laid down before them in the same layer. Thus as the printer lays down a layer into bare space, the deposited plastic is, ideally, able to fix on to the supported edge. As the next ring is laid down, it grabs on to the cooled ring laid down before it, and so on. The idea is inspired by wave propagation, hence the name. You can see a demonstration of the software in the video below by [Cocoanix 3D Printing].

It’s still a very new technique. The slicer has a whole bunch of knobs to turn and two different algorithms. Get the settings just right and you can print horizontal overhangs successfully. There aren’t exactly presets yet, this is something to explore with trial and error. If you test it out, don’t forget to upload your results to the Community Gallery so the developers can see what works and what doesn’t.

We’ve explored how smart slicers can do amazing things before, too, particularly when it comes to things like bridging.

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The Challenges Of 3D Printing Reliable Springs

April 27, 2026 by Maya Posch 17 Comments

Springs are great, but making them out of plastic tends to come with some downsides, for fairly obvious reasons. Creating a compliant mechanism that can be 3D printed and yet which doesn’t permanently deform or wear out after a few uses is therefore a bit of a struggle. The compliant toggle mechanism that [neotoy] designed is said to have addressed those issues, with the model available on Printables for anyone to give a shake.

The model in question is a toggle, which is the commonly seen plastic or metal device that clamps down on e.g. rope or cord and requires you to push on it to have it release said clamping force. Normally these use a metal spring inside, but this version is fully 3D printable and thus forms a practical way to test this particular compliant mechanism with a variety of materials.

The internal spring is a printed spiral spring, with the example in the video printed in PETG. You can of course also print it in other materials for different durability and springiness properties. As noted in the video, PLA makes for a very poor spring material, so you probably want to skip that one.

We covered compliant mechanisms in the past for purposes like blasters, including some that you can only see under a microscope.

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Slicer Settings For “Indestructible” Battle-Bot Worthy PLA Parts

April 25, 2026 by Tyler August 15 Comments

If you follow [Maker’s Muse] on YouTube, you know he’s as passionate about robot fights these days as he is about the tools he uses to make the robots. Luckily for us, he’s still got fame as a 3D printing YouTuber, as this has given him the platform to share his trade secrets for strong, robot-combat-worthy prints.

He fights robots in a ‘plastic ant-weight’ division, which restricts not only the weight of the robot but also the materials used. Not only must they be primarily plastic, but only certain plastics are allowed: PLA is in, but engineering filaments, Nylon, and TPU are out. Since necessity is the mother of invention, this has led to strong evolutionary pressure to figure out how to print the most impact-resilient PLA parts for armor and spinners.

He’s using the latest OrcaSlicer and shares the profile as a pay-what-you-want 3MF file. It’s all about solidity: a solid part with solidly fused walls and solidly linked layers. It makes sense: if you’re going to be hammering on or with these parts, you don’t want any internal voids that could either collapse or pull open.

The infill density is obviously 100%, and you’ll want a concentric pattern — this makes it look like you’re just printing walls, but it allows you to use another trick. To make sure those walls don’t all align, creating a potential weakness, OrcaSlicer’s “alternate extra wall” will put one extra wall every second layer. The extra wall causes the infill pattern to stagger and lock together.

Also helping lock it together, he’s playing with extrusion widths, with the suggested rule-of-thumb being the line width on the walls be one-half that of the internal fill — and as wide as possible. In his case, with a 0.4 mm nozzle, that means 0.4 mm wide walls and 0.8 mm for the infill. OrcaSlicer 2.3.2 also lets you play with specific flow ratios, allowing you to overextrude only the internals for strength, without overextruding on the walls and potentially ruining dimensional accuracy. He also irons all top surfaces, but admits that that’s mostly about aesthetics. The iron may make those layers a little bit stronger, though, so why not?

Would brick layers make these parts even stronger? That’s very likely; [Maker’s Muse] mentions them in the video but does not use them because they’re not implemented in-slicer, and he wants something accessible to all. On the other hand, this post-processing script seems accessible enough for our crowd.

This video/profile is exclusively about fully-solid parts. When you want strong parts that aren’t fully solid, it looks like the answer is walls.

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Spool Roller Gets Touch Screen

April 24, 2026 by Al Williams 2 Comments

If you have a desktop 3D printer, you probably want something to hang filament spools on. [LVTRC] has a spool roller that fits the bill. It also incorporates a scale and a round touch screen. (Google Translate)

We’ve seen those round screens before, and now we wonder why we didn’t think of this. The GC9A01 display shows a progress ring and lets you save settings or calibrations to EEPROM. An Arduino Nano provides the brain, and the load cell connects to an HX711. The project is made to fit a specific printer, but it should be little trouble to adapt it to a different printer or to mount it in an external mount.

One of the calibration steps, of course, is to program the weight of an empty spool to subtract from the total weight. The device can store up to five specific profiles.

Not the biggest spool holder we’ve seen. We keep thinking that we don’t know why we want a circular screen, and then someone always drops in to show us another thing we didn’t think about.