Easily Reuse 3D Printing Photopolymers With Depolymerizable Resin

Generally the idea with photopolymers as used with resin 3D printing is that the process only works in a single direction as with all thermosets: after polymerization under influence of UV light they become an inert lump of plastic. Being able to turn these lumps back into resin would of course be ideal, as it would make recycling incredibly easy. Here depolymerizable resin turns out to be a thing, with 3Dresyn being one company that sells additives and resin which enable this (found via Fabbaloo).

Irreversible (thermoset), partial and full depolymerization. (Credit: Machado et al., Nature, 2024)
Irreversible (thermoset), partial and full depolymerization. (Credit: Machado et al., Nature, 2024)

These additives and resins come in essentially two flavors based on which temperature they depolymerize at, which can be at either 80°C or 150°C. This comes at a cost, of course, with the ready-to-use resin coming in at an eyewatering €833.00 for a 1 kg bottle, a factor only slightly helped by the reusability aspect.

From a more technical perspective this depolymerization feature is fascinating, as it addresses the one aspect of thermosets (like SLA and epoxy resins) that thermoplastics have as advantage, especially from a recycling view. This type of circular photopolymer appears to be quite novel, with an article by [Machado] et al. from 2024 claiming to have demonstrated the first resin that can be photopolymerized, depolymerized and subsequently again photopolymerized in a closed loop.

In the demonstration by [Machado] et al. the depolymerization is achieved using dynamic disulfide bonds, with the pulverized printed samples put into a 2-methyl-tetrahydrofuran (MeTHF) solvent. After heating at 80°C for 3 hours with an inert atmosphere, most of the photopolymerized material had returned to its original, pre-printing state. In a more recent 2025 study by [Bo Yang] et al. an approach using catalytic thermal dissociation of dithioacetal bonds was explored.

Based on the available information by 3Dresyns it would seem that their product is closer to this latter approach, with depolymerization requiring putting the part into an oven at the target temperature for up to an hour, presumably in some kind of suitable container. This is said to target elements like sacrificial molds, reusable tooling and jigs that would otherwise be discarded, or need to melt like a thermoplastic instead of acting like a thermoset. Whether a solvent like MeTHF is required as in the two cited studies is sadly unclear based on a quick scan of the site.

Thanks to [SpillsDirt] for the tip.

IKEA Storage Box Just Happens To Make Great Printer Cover

The Snapmaker U1 3D printer is an impressive machine for the price, but [Beaver Works] found the optional factory-offered top cover a wee bit expensive for his tastes. The solution? 3D print a fixture and use a clear 45 L Samla storage box from IKEA as an effective and affordable cover for the machine.

Why a cover?  A cover helps retain heat and block drafts, which can help improve print quality. A cover also keeps the machine’s insides dust and debris-free, not to mention serving as a decent barrier to curious fingers or paws.

This is a great use of an off-the-shelf product that performs at least as well as any bespoke solution. The nature of printer enclosures makes them trickier than one might think, with the size and weight of materials often driving costs up for something that seems relatively simple in concept. Getting one by 3D printing the fixtures and purchasing the bulky part locally and affordably is a great alternative. IKEA even sells the box’s lid separately, so one can buy just the box and isn’t stuck with an unused lid afterward.

Integrating off-the-shelf components into a design is often risky because much of it is outside the designer’s control. Availability can change, and a manufacturer might alter dimensions or design elements without any notice. But IKEA’s storage products are pretty well standardized and work really well for this purpose.

On the off chance you need a design tweak, [Beaver Works] has provided STEP files for the 3D-printed parts, something we always love to see.

The OpenCAL printer, projector on the right, print volume on the left.

OpenCAL: Computed Axial Lithographic 3D Printing For Everyone

Computed Axial Lithographic printing gets even closer to the Star Trek replicator fantasy than any other 3D printer we’ve seen: there’s a machine, it glows with a mysterious bluish light, and an object appears. OK, the object is appearing inside a spinning vat of photochemical ooze, not in thin air, but that’s a detail. It’s still very cool tech, and now it’s open source enough to replicate with full documentation and a GitHub repository.

This project is descended from the same Berkeley research that we featured last year, but at that point, they were inviting everyone to join their Discord server, and that was about it. At the time, we put on our old man outfit to yell at clouds and say, “A Discord shouldn’t count as open source!” For once, it looks like those geriatric grumblings were heeded. There is still a corporate-hosted chat server named for a malignant goddess, and you’re still invited, but now there’s also actual, searchable documentation!

Continue reading “OpenCAL: Computed Axial Lithographic 3D Printing For Everyone”

Bambuddy Says Bye To Bambu Lab Cloud Services

If you have a Bambu Labs printer and aren’t keen to send your files to Bambu’s servers with each print job, then check out Bambuddy, an open-source, self-hosted, cloud-free central command that offers a local alternative for managing Bambu Labs printers. It acts as a replacement for the official cloud services, allowing you to slice, print, and monitor with full local control and zero reliance on Bambu Labs’ servers. Continue reading “Bambuddy Says Bye To Bambu Lab Cloud Services”

Adding Weight To A 3D Print With Plaster Of Paris, Cleanly

Sometimes it’s useful to add extra mass to a 3D print, and [Joe Fedewa] shared a simple and effective technique that uses plaster of Paris. Rather than pause the print and insert hardware or weighted bits inside, he designed the base as hollow. Not in the sense of zero infill, but in the sense of modeling a cavity into the open bottom of the object.

An open cavity in the base is perfect for filling with plaster of Paris.

After the print is complete, he mixes the dry plaster with water until it creates a thick but pourable mixture. Then the object gets turned upside-down and the cavity filled. In about an hour, it will have set up enough to be handled and worked.

Plaster of Paris has a good heft to it, but more importantly it can be made perfectly presentable thanks to being very friendly to post-processing. Any rough spots can be easily sanded and the whole bottom smoothed, so one doesn’t even need to cap it off. Completely cured plaster can be sealed with a clear coat for a more durable finish, if desired.

This basic concept has been used in other ways, such as reinforcing prints with concrete to yield parts solid enough to make tools out of. But using plaster of Paris not just to add mass, but specifically to create a presentable surface that doesn’t need covering up is a neat and highly economical adaptation of the idea.

Other methods of adding mass to a 3D print include inserting metal balls or chunky nuts, bolts, or other hardware, but this method doesn’t require pausing prints to insert things. Nor does it require sealing off or capping the print, messing with goopy epoxies or resins, or spending a lot of money — making it a good one to keep in mind in case it comes in handy someday.

Print Your Own Robby The Robot

When it comes to robots, few are as iconic as Robby. [Ogrinz Labs] has wanted to build one and even examined a real one up for auction to get high-res photos of it. He also combined his designs with some other open-source designs, and it looks good. He’s released his design as a Creative Commons-licensed set of STL files that you, in theory, could print. There are more details and instructions in the video below.

If you are looking for something quick to print for the weekend, this isn’t it. As you might expect, this is a lot to print. The creator admits, too, that it isn’t totally accurate. It has bigger feet, for example, so his feet can fit inside. There are a few other modifications made for different reasons, but only a hard-core Robby enthusiast would notice any of them.

Continue reading “Print Your Own Robby The Robot”

Stratasys Vs Bambu Lab: Industrial Vs Consumer ABS Showdown

The test parts being printed on the Stratasys Fortus 450mc. (Credit: My Tech Fun, YouTube)
The test parts being printed on the Stratasys Fortus 450mc. (Credit: My Tech Fun, YouTube)

Professional Stratasys FDM printers demand a pretty hefty price premium over your typical hobbyist-level machine, with the gold-plating continuing even with the special filament cartridges that you buy for some of their printers.

This raises the question of in how far this eye-watering price tag is justified, and how much is just you paying for support and the brand name. After acquiring a spool of Stratasys ABS filament via a US viewer, [Dr. Igor Gaspar] set to work to try and answer this question.

The viewer had already liberated the spool of ABS+ P430 filament from its cartridge, making it easy to use that directly with the Bambu Lab FDM printer.

To make it a fair comparison, [Igor] also needed to have a sample printed on a real Stratasys printer, for which he used a local company’s services. An interesting sidenote here is that the US viewer’s company moved away from Stratasys to Bambu Lab printers.

[Igor] was able to see his test parts being printed on the Stratasys printer, as said company is in the same city. This showed him that it took 14 hours to print the parts versus 3.5 hours on the Bambu Lab printer, suggesting that his worries about the right printing parameters for the Stratasys filament were warranted. Sussing those out was thus paramount for a fair comparison and warranted some test prints.

From a sheer aesthetic point of view the Stratasys-printed parts looked much cleaner, and their dimensional accuracy was also significantly better due to the slicer adjusting for this. Between the used Stratasys M30 and Bambu Lab ABS filaments there’s no clear winner, with both trading blows. Amusingly enough, the older Stratasys ABS type in the form of the ABS+ P430 filament performed the best of all when printed on the Bambu Lab printer at its preferred temperature setting.

Moral of the story is thus that – unless you really want to pay for that service contract – to loot old Stratasys ABS spool cartridges and use them in your hobbyist FDM printer. As [Igor] says in the conclusion, the nicer looks is probably due to them printing very thin layers, much finer than the 0.2 mm layers he used. This would also match the much longer print time and is thus something we can replicate on any FDM printer with a temperature-controlled printing environment.

Continue reading “Stratasys Vs Bambu Lab: Industrial Vs Consumer ABS Showdown”