Electroplating 3D Prints Without Requiring A Big Vat

Electroplating 3D prints is a good way to get a pretty nice coating on even a basic PLA part, but generally you’re expected to dunk the entire part into a big vat with electrolyte after coating it with the requisite conductive paint layer. This is great for small parts, like a ring you’d put on a finger, but gets rather silly when it’s a much larger part, such as the one in [Hendrik]’s recent video. Out of curiosity he tried to see whether rotating the part through a much smaller vat would still get you an even coating, or not.

Perhaps ironically this process required building a custom vat out of acrylic, as well as an entire rig to hold up the part and gently rotate it. This highlights the main disadvantage of this approach, in that unless you’re doing a small production run or otherwise get to re-use the rig a lot it’s a lot of extra effort.

That said, the rotation is controlled by an ESP32 and a stepper motor along with a requisite stepper driver, with the most exotic part being the whole custom PCB and enclosure, all of which can be used repeatedly. With all of that tested and confirmed working, the part to be plated was sanded, sprayed with conductive paint and hooked up to the rotating rig for an overnight run.

Following that the part’s new copper coating was polished before more layers of electroplating were applied to get the desired two different colors from different metals. Along the way no issues were found with this method of rotating electroplating, so if you regularly struggle with oversized parts to electroplate, this would seem to be a viable method.

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How To Make Steel That Breathes

There are plenty of porous materials out there that we’re all readily familiar with. Fabrics and wood are great examples, allowing liquids or gases to pass through to a certain degree—a property which is useful or problematic depending on the application.

Metals, however, are not something we would readily consider to be porous. They are solid, unyielding, and impermeable. However, with the right techniques, it is possible to produce so-called “breathable” steel, which has particularly interesting applications in the molding industry.

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A Status Screen For Bambu Labs Printers

If you’ve got a Bambu Labs printer, it’s usually pretty straightforward to keep an eye on it via the onboard display or the various apps the company has released. However, if you want a dedicated display somewhere remote from your printer, you might like this build from [Keralots].

The project is based on an ESP32-S3 Super Mini, paired with a 1.54″ TFT display with a 240 x 240 resolution. It’s set up to talk to Bambu Labs printers over MQTT with TLS. It harvests status data and uses it to display a real-time dashboard with critical printer parameters display on arc gauges. There’s also plenty of live stats to pore over, as well as buzzer notifications if you want auditory alerts about what is going on. It’s possible to use with just about any Bambu Labs printer with a Bambu Cloud access token; otherwise, you can tinker with LAN Direct connections on certain models, but you might need to enable Developer Mode depending on your rig.

If you want to monitor your printer’s vital statistics at a glance, this project is a great way to do it. It breaks out the fundamental numbers in a clear and obvious fashion that’s a little easier to parse quickly compared to the interface of the official software. We’ve featured similar builds before, too. If you’re also paranoid about prints and using that to motivate you towards creating useful hardware, don’t hesitate to let us know on the tipsline.Ā 

PreFlight Slicer Brings Added Part Strength Feature, And Many More

Interested in taking some wild new 3D printing features for a test drive? preFlight is a free and open source slicer that brings a host of processing improvements as well as fascinating new features and interesting twists on old ones. There are almost too many to list, so here are a few that caught our eye.

Cross-sectional view of Interlocking Perimeters, which increases Z-strength. Unlike brick layers, layer height stays constant.

Want to mix and match different support types on the same object? No problem. How about use Nip & Tuck seams to better hide where layers start and stop? You can emboss images directly onto print surfaces with a real-time preview and use smart bridging for counter-bored holes. We particularly like the ability to preview a sliced object from the side instead of just by layer. That’s not all, either.

Those features alone are pretty intriguing, but there’s one in particular that is particularly relevant to creating stronger parts. Interlocking Perimeters increases layer bonding to increase object strength. Unlike brick layers, which staggers layers vertically, interlocking perimeters plays with spacing and compression to increase bonding in the Z axis while keeping layer heights constant. This is possible thanks in part to the greater control offered by Athena, the new perimeter generator.

There are plenty more features — like a full Python runtime embedded directly into the slicing pipeline, and a host of export pathways — so check out the GitHub repository for added detail and let us know in the comments if you give it a try.

Using A Nintendo Switch To Speed Up A 3D Printer

3D printers are almost never fast enough. [Cocoanix] had a Prusa MK3S with this very problem. He found it to be disappointingly tedious when completing even simple prints, and sought a way to make it faster. Thus, he grabbed a Nintendo Switch and got to work.

It might sound like an odd choice, and that’s because it is. There’s no special magic inside a Nintendo Switch that makes 3D printers faster – it’s just that the handheld console was a useful platform on which to run Klipper. As [Cocoanix] explains, Klipper is designed to run on faster general-purpose computers compared to the more limited microcontrollers used in some printers. It’s designed to off-load complex motion processing tasks to a faster CPU, while the printer’s onboard microcontrollers are freed up to simply handle the low-level tasks of driving the motors and so on. An older printer equipped with Klipper can often print faster, while implementing techniques like input shaping to further improve speed as well as print quality.

It’s worth noting that you don’t have to use a Nintendo Switch for this. It’s just a good hook for the YouTube video. Typically you’d use a Raspberry Pi or some other computer instead, but the fact it runs on a jailbroken console is amusing nonetheless. It’s also cool to see the results – in this video, [Cocoanix] got the Benchy printing time down from 90 minutes to just 8.

We’ve previously discussed the benefits of Klipper at length.

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Multimaterial SLA Printer Will Make Your Head Spin

For the last few years, the must-have feature that companies are competing to show off on their filament deposition 3D printers is multi-material printing. Be it tool swapping or a material-changing system, everyone wants to show they can give you the capability to make multicoloured plastic tchotchkes. So far, that hasn’t really been the case in the world of at-home resin printing — until now. A company called Polysynth, headed by a fellow named [Eric], hopes you’ll pay a premium for the ability to make multimaterial resin prints, and they show some interesting use cases in the video below.

The technique is simple: instead of one resin tank underneath the dipping build plate, [Eric]’s Polysynth printer has a carousel of up to eight small circular tanks. To avoid cross-contamination from uncured resin, the print needs to be cleansed between alternating dips in the different resin vats. Rather than add a wash vat and slow the process down that way, [Eric] and his team decided to use centrifugal force: they just spin the print really, really fast to fling all the uncured resin to the sides of the vat. Yes, really.

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The Noctua Fan Files And The Limits Of 3D Printing PC Fans

After Noctua recently released CAD files for a range of their computer fans, one of the first thoughts that popped up for most people was: Can you just to 3D print their fans? Even though Noctua begs you not to 3D print the files and even says they changed the design slightly so it wouldn’t be the same anyway, the question persists. Fortunately, [Steve] of Gamers Nexus is here to help us answer the question of whether it makes sense to 3D print a computer fan.

Unsurprisingly, the answer is mostly a resounding ‘no’. After reworking the original CAD models to be both printable on a Bambu Lab FDM printer and printing the parts in PLA, the arguably most important part, the motor, still had to be sourced from an original Noctua fan. Although you could source a cheaper motor, that could change the fan’s characteristics.

The other issue is materials. The special polymer that Noctua uses for its fans is designed not to change shape significantly when the fan blades are spinning, whereas PLA and basically every other thermoplastic will likely deform enough to hit the inside of the fan with the blades. For this reason, a 3 mm gap was used in the PLA print compared with the approximately 0.5 mm gap of the original Noctua fan.

Using the professional fan tester and semi-anechoic chamber over at Gamers Nexus, the original and replica fans were compared, showing that the 3D-printed fan had a similar noise profile but produced only about half the airflow. This is likely due to the blade shape and angle, the increased gap, and probably a dozen other details that presumably justify putting a cool $40 down for the original fan.

In short, you’re probably best off using these Noctua fan CAD models for fit testing in a larger CAD model, or 3D printing it for a similar purpose, rather than for a functional fan design. At least now we know. Thanks, [Steve].

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