Counting The PET Bottles Needed To Make 1 Kg Of Printer Filament

In countries where PET bottles do not get slapped with an additional fee that induces you to return it for recycling and said fee back, the resulting piles of discarded bottles have led many enterprising individuals to consider using them to make their own PETG filament. One big question of course is just how much work it is to create even a single 1 kg spool of PETG, which is a question that [PETCraft] was only too happy to answer in a recent video.

With the channel owner clearly living in a country without a bottle deposit, it’s very easy to see PET bottles strewn about as trash, including multi-liter water bottles. As a very recycling-focused channel, this provides an excellent opportunity to show how they go about recycling these into filament.

The heat-smoothed water bottles, ready for cutting.
The heat-smoothed water bottles, ready for cutting.

The detailed process is covered in previous videos in the channel, but essentially they are first heat-smoothed to make them much easier to cut into thin strips. This is done with a very DIY cutter – also constructed from mostly salvaged and other common parts – before the strips are passed through the heated extruder nozzle of the DIY filament extruder before being wound onto spools.

Ultimately it took thirteen 5 liter bottles, a 10 L, two 8 L and a single 1.5 L bottle to hit the 1 kg target, which is quite an impressive amount of work. The next challenge will be to actually print with it, which will – naturally – be done with a DIY 3D printer made from salvaged parts and an Arduino board.

The good news about recycling bottles like this into filament is that basically all PET bottles will actually be PETG anyway, as the glycol adds the flexibility that’s essential in water bottles so that they do not shatter or rip easily. The real question you have to ask yourself is whether cleaning, cutting and spooling dozens of bottles is worth saving perhaps 10-20 bucks on a commercial spool of 1 kg PETG filament.

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DIY Algae Biodiesel Is Harder Than You Think

There’s one thing [Silent H] wants you to know before you watch his video about making biodiesel, embedded below: he started this project before he’d even heard of the Strait of Hormuz. No, he’s just independent-minded and wanted to try making his own fuel when diesel was– in retrospect– cheap as chips. That’s probably a good thing, because while [Silent] gets his pint of fuel at the end of the video, it’s not from algae; it’s from a backup crop of sunflowers.

As it turns out, he picked what was the perfect algae and the absolute worst algae for making biodiesel from: Chlorella Vulgaris. It’s perfect because it’s easy to grow, and easy to extract from the growth medium, as it sinks when it is ‘ripe’, and has a very high oil content. Of course [Silent] didn’t want to toss algae cakes into a steam powered canoe, he wanted diesel fuel for his vehicle. That’s where the project broke down: Chlorella Vulgaris cells are exceptionally tough, and if you can’t rupture the cell wall, you can’t can’t get out any appreciable oil. A few grams by solvent extraction is all he manages before switching to more tractable feedstock.

That feedstock is sunflowers, which give up their oil through the application of violent pressure. That is to say, he crushes the seeds in an oil press. Oil acquired, he goes on to transesterfy the stuff, extracting glycerine to produce biodiesel– a process ripe for hacking that you’d think we’d cover more often.

We have covered the algae growth side of things before, but that algae seemed to be destined for other uses than fuel.

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Gardening With…OpenSCAD?

Unless it’s automated or using some other form of high-tech trickery, a vegetable garden isn’t exactly the sort of thing you’d expect to see on Hackaday. Be that as it may, the bountiful crop of peppers [Mihai Oltean] grew on the side of his house was done the old fashioned way, with nary a transistor in sight. So what’s the catch?

Well, in this case, it’s more about the journey than the end result. The produce sprouting in [Mihai]’s garden may be common enough, but the method in which he designed the garden itself is worth a closer look. To our knowledge, it’s the first time somebody sat down and wrote out all the code to generate a 3D model of a vertical garden in OpenSCAD.

Usually, we see OpenSCAD used to produce design files for 3D printing or occasionally 2D CNC operations. But that’s not what’s happening here. The goal was to simply plan out how all the parts of the system would come together, and [Mihai] felt comfortable tackling it in the code-centric workflow offered by OpenSCAD. We know the feeling well.

Though the code isn’t necessarily being used to produce parts for manufacture, [Mihai] does bring in a bunch of virtual components to stand in for their corporeal counterparts. We’re partial to using a parts library such as NopSCADlib for this kind of thing, but from the looks of the GitHub repo, [Mihai] decided to implement his own versions of the screws, nuts, washers, and sections of metal extrusion used to construct the garden wall.

We recently covered the advantages of “building” a complex multi-part project like a CNC control cabinet virtually in your CAD tool of choice before bending metal on the real thing. This project is a fantastic example of that concept, as it shows that the technique isn’t limited to electronic components.

Dumpster-dived Window A/C Becomes Ground-Source Heat Pump

Heat pumps are great, because they pump heat around, and we often don’t want heat where it is. Need it somewhere else? Pump it! It’s great. It’s also a bit pricey if you’re buying new, but [Craftsman Chris] over on YouTube realized that the window air conditioning unit he found in a dumpster is, in fact, a heat pump. Normally it’s an air-source heat pump, but with a delightful series of hacks, he gets it automated and hooked into a ground loop in his latest YouTube video.

The heat sink is provided by a bunch of PEX tubing [Chris] buried in his back yard. After experimenting with using the water loop for cooling directly, he realized that pumping heat out of his house into the cold ground would go much better with a heat pump. That’s where the window A/C came in. After cleaning and servicing it, it was time to convert it to dump heat into water rather than outside air. To do that, [Chris] welded up a tank made of scrap metal around the existing heat exchanger. It’s designed for air, sure, but water takes its heat just fine. The nice thing about this is that by keeping the internals of the air conditioner mostly stock, he doesn’t let out any of the tasty, tasty CFCs that may be hiding inside.

Connecting this unit to his thermostat is equally hacky– he takes an old Programmable Logic Controller that looks fit to run a small factory, and hooks it to a single linear actuator to poke the A/C unit’s stock power button. Is it elegant? No. Does it work? Yes. Is it a hack? Indubitably!

We’ve seen window units pressed into whole-house A/C service before, but adding the water loop is a great hack. We saw a window A/C used as a ground-source pump before, too, but that was a Canadian project and so sensibly turned the machine around to provide heating for the maple mansion.

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Why Wave Energy Is The Final Frontier Of Renewable Energy

With the Earth’s atmosphere being effectively just a less dense fluid than the oceans around us, it’s reasonable to ask why we got wind turbines and wind mills quite literally everywhere across the globe to harvest the power in the wind, whereas ocean waves and currents aren’t being exploited quite as much. In a recent video by [Giordano Scarciotti] this issue with wave power is addressed, in particular the massive engineering challenges involved.

Internal view of the CorPower Ocean wave turbine buoy. (Credit: CorPower Ocean)
Internal view of the CorPower Ocean wave turbine buoy. (Credit: CorPower Ocean)

One of the main problems is simply one of cost, with wind energy having converged on a single design involving effectively the same three-bladed rotor, gondola and tower design that has been optimized for decades now. For wave energy there’s no such one-design-fits-all solution, with each attempted design having its own advantages and disadvantages that may prevent it from working in various sites, or incur high maintenance costs in the highly abusive marine environment.

Having more energy in waves than in wind is also both a benefit and a curse, as wave turbines have to work with the waves and not get demolished every time there’s a storm. Even wind turbines regularly fail in windy weather when e.g. the brakes fail, under conditions that would be considered mild in a marine context.

Also covered in the video is a new contender, in the form of CorPower Ocean’s new buoy-like design that bobs up and down on the surface. Here you need to carefully tune the turbine mechanism to work with the wave motion to extract the most energy. Their current design is be 19 meters tall, 9 meters wide and claimed to be capable of being installed in >40 meter deep water, producing power with a 40-60% capacity factor at 300 kW.

As yet another attempt at making wave energy turbines work, the most exciting aspect of it will be to see whether it can survive adverse weather, when careful tuning gets tossed out of the window and chaotic waves pummel what is essentially a very big hollow buoy. The single prototype has so far survived bad weather off the coast of Portugal during a year of testing, but the real test is long-term survival, as losing half your wave turbine farm to a really bad storm every five-odd years would quickly scuttle the project like it has previous commercial contenders.

Although not addressed in the video, the commercial challenge here is also not so much making the power generated over its lifetime (LCoE) economically attractive, but also its system integration cost in terms of required transmission lines, grid-level energy storage and backup power generators like baseload and standby power plants. Without equipping these wave power farms with grid-forming converters as TSOs are asking, dealing with reactive power to absorb and generate it, any resulting grid oscillations exacerbated by grid-following converters risk causing another expensive blackout as recently on the Iberian peninsula.

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3D Printed Cubes Provide Passive Cooling

Passive evaporative cooling has been used for centuries to reduce temperatures. Heat is drawn off as water evaporates, which in turn reduces temperature. The more efficiently this process happens the greater the temperature differential, and that’s exactly what the 3D-printed structure pictured above aims for. Created at the Graz University of Technology in Austria, the cubes noticeably reduce surrounding air temperature thanks to their careful construction. As long as they’re kept wet, anyway.

The key is exposing the maximum amount of water to the maximum amount of airflow, and there are two ways the prototype cooling wall — which is 3D printed from a special clay mixture — does this.

First, the macro design of the 3D-printed blocks maximizes surface area. If the cube in the image above looks familiar, that’s because it’s the gyroid infill pattern. Gyroid is a porous pattern with no “dead ends” or closed sections, and the fact that it 3D prints cleanly with no supports also makes it an ideal structural candidate.

The second advantage is the clay used for the blocks themselves. Firing clay at a low temperature keeps it porous, but this particular mixture goes even further. It’s a bio-inspired formulation of clay, fungal mycelium, and wood chips. After printing, the cubes are fired and the fungus and wood chips burn away, leaving a network of thread-like capillaries with occasional larger pockets throughout.

The result is a porous ceramic cube with a massive evaporative surface area relative to its size. A practical test in a hot attic showed the air near a water-laden cube was nearly 7º C lower, a noticeable difference.

A home experimenter might not have access to fancy mycelium-laced clay mixtures, but it still strikes us as something that could be tried out at home. After all, clever hackers have successfully made DIY versions of passive cooling paint.

Exploring The Downsides Of Cooling Roof Paint

The idea of painting a roof or wall white in order to reflect sunshine and keep the building’s insides cool is hardly a new one, and even in the loosest interpretation of the word ‘white’ it generally works pretty well. This is also what [NightHawkInLight] found after using an off-the-shelf silicone-based coating for his shed’s tin roof, though with a few caveats.

One might say that this is mostly a problem for people who live in non-desert climates — like Michigan in this case — yet it’s undeniable that having a cooler indoors in a high-humidity climate will inevitably lead to a higher indoor humidity level. This was the first issue that was encountered, though it mostly meant that instead of running an air conditioner eight hours a day, a weekly dehumidifier session was required, which was at least less expensive in terms of kWh.

While the current silicone-based paint on the roof stays above ambient, in a subsequent test both [NightHawkInLight]’s DIY sub-ambient cooling paint and a commercial option get a sample panel down to around ambient temperature, which could cool down the roof even more. Of course, in this case the humidity issues would get worse, with likely condensation forming that would have to be dealt with.

Overall, a cooling paint on the roof is a pretty thing even if you’re not living in the desert, but you have to be able to tame the resulting humidity and condensation issues.

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