Green Powered Challenge: Solar Powered Pi Hosts Websites In RAM

April 12, 2026 by Tyler August No comments

If you started with computers early enough, you’ll remember the importance of the RAMdisk concept: without a hard drive and with floppies slow and swapping constantly, everything had to live in RAM. That’s not done much these days, but [Quackieduckie]’s solar powered Pi Zero W web server has gone back to it to save its SD card.

Sustainability and low power is the name of the game. Starting with a Pi Zero W means low power is the default; a an SLS-printed aluminum case that doubles as the heat sink– while looking quite snazzy–saves power that would otherwise be used for cooling. The STLs are available through the project page if you like the look and have a hankering for passively cooled Pi. Even under load [Quackieduckie] reports temperatures of just 29.9°C, less than a degree over idle.

The software stack is of course key to a server, and here he’s using Alpine Linux running in “diskless mode”– that’s the equivalent of what us oldsters would think of as the RAMdisk. That’s not that unusual for servers, but we don’t see it much on these pages. It’s a minimal setup to save processing, and thus electrical power, with only a handful of services kept running: lighttpd, a lightweight webserver, and duckiebox, a python-based file server, along with SSHD and dchron; together they consume 27 MB of RAM, leaving the rest of the 512 MB DDR2 the Pi comes with to quickly serve up websites without the overhead of SD card access.

As a webserver, [Quackieduckie] tested it with 50 simultaneous connections, which would be rather a lot for most small, personal web sites, and while it did slow down to an average 1.3s per response that’s perfectly usable and faster than we’d have expected from this hardware. While the actual power consumption figures aren’t given, we know from experience it’s not going to be drawing more than a watt or so. With a reasonably sized battery and solar cell– [Quackieduckie] suggests 20W–it should run until the cows come home.

This isn’t the first solar-powered web server we’ve seen, but this one was submitted for the 2026 Green Powered Challenge, which runs until April 24th.

Burning Wood To Brew Wood To Preserve Wood : Pine Tar

April 3, 2026 by Tyler August 7 Comments

Before there was pressure-treated wood, before modern paints, there was pine tar. Everything from tool handles to wagons to ships were made of wood preserved with pine tar, once upon a time, and [woodbrew] wants to show you how to make it, how to use it, and why you might put it on your skin.

It starts with, you guessed it, pine! In the first part of the video, [woodbrew] creates a skin salve with pine resin and food-safe oil. The pine resin–which is the sticky goop that dries around wounds on evergreen trees–is highly antiseptic and has been used in wound salves since the stone age. The process is easy: melt it in a double boiler, then mix with equal parts oil. [woodbrew] also adds a touch of beeswax to firm it up, an a little eucalyptus extract for extra germ-killing power, and a nice smell to boot.

That’ll preserve your hands, but what about preserving wood? That starts at about 9 minutes in, and for that you’re going to need a lot more resin, so picking it off wounded trees like he does at the start of the video won’t work. [woodbrew] suggests starting with dead-or-dying pines, and harvesting the crooks of their branches for “fatwood” — wood with the highest resin content. He also suggests the center of stumps, again of trees that died or were severely injured before being cut down. Then it’s a matter of cooking those fine organic molecules out. This is where we burn the wood to save the wood. Well, to save other wood. Wood we didn’t burn, obviously.

The distillation process [woodbrew] uses it fairly traditional, and consists of a couple of buckets. One bucket is buried and collects the pine tar; the other, with holes in the bottom to allow the tar to drip out, is filled with fatwood and covered tightly before being surrounded by firewood which is set alight. You could use an alternate source of heat here, but if you just cut down a pine tree for its fatwood, well, you’d have the rest of the tree to work with. Inside the fatwood bucket, the heat of the fire cooks off the volatile compounds that make pine tar, while the lack of oxygen from being closed up keeps it from burning. Burying the collection bucket keeps it from getting so hot the volatiles all boil off.

If this sounds like the process for making charcoal or woodgas, that’s because it is! He’s letting the gas fraction flare off here, but you could probably capture it– though a true gasifier brakes the tar down into gaseous compounds as well. The charcoal of course stays in the bucket as a bonus.

To make it usable as a wood finish, [woodbrew] mixes his homemade pine tar 50:50 with linseed oil, thining it to a spreadable consistency that helps it penetrate deep into the wood. By filling the voids in the wood, this mixture will help keep moisture out, and the antiseptic properties of the organic soup that is pine tar will help keep fungi at bay for potentially decades to come.

Thanks to [Keith Olson] for the tip!

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Chicken Coop Door Performs In Harsh Environment

April 3, 2026 by Bryan Cockfield 22 Comments

One of the pitfalls of modern engineering is that it’s entirely possible to end up in a situation where a product or solution has been designed by someone who has never left a desk. Which wouldn’t be a problem if things didn’t have a tendency to work differently in real life than they do in theory.

One of those things is automatic chicken coop doors, which have to operate reliably in not only a wide range of climates but with a number of possible physical limitations as well. [Vinnie] has taken on the challenge of building one which actually accomplishes all of these tasks, after realizing that the off-the-shelf solutions were victims of design over practicality.

[Vinnie] designed this door to be operated by the one thing that’s always 100% reliable: gravity. A linear actuator lifts the door at the beginning of the day, and then at night it’s allowed to fall back down in its track. A latch secures it against smarter intruders like raccoons. [Vinnie] has found that this lifting mechanism holds up much better in mud, snow, ice, and other difficult conditions than any other method he’s tried so far.

The system is built around a ATmega1284P, and calculates the sunrise and sunset times each day to know when to open or close the door. He’s built the system as a state machine which makes it more robust during power outages, which is a necessity since his chicken coop is mobile and is frequently out of range of WiFi and is battery powered.

The approach [Vinnie] takes to automation is something that has application outside of his own farmstead. Using state machines instead of schedules, ensuring the design is as simple as possible and works within its environment, and minimizing reliance on electric and data infrastructure can go a long way to solving problems that might not appear when designing something on paper.

He’s been automating many other things on his farm as well, and it’s worth checking it out if you haven’t seen it already.

Addressing The Divisive Topic That Is Boiling Water

April 2, 2026 by Maya Posch 30 Comments

The topic of boiling water is apparently a rather divisive topic, with plenty of strong opinions to go around on what is safe and the most efficient way to go about it. Thus in a new video [Cahn] sought to address the many comments that came in after his previous testing of electric kettles on either 12 VDC or 240 VAC.

What’s interesting about this whole topic is that at its core the overall efficiency of boiling water is simply a matter of calculating the energy input minus energy losses, with the remaining energy going into the water.

As we can see in the video, using a higher battery voltage doesn’t really change the efficiency of a 12 VDC kettle, but the higher current draw does manage to melt a fuse that can’t take the heat — requiring a 20 amp fuse instead of the 15 A one.

One change that does make a difference is how it’s connected. Replacing the thin gauge wiring and the attached cigarette lighter plug on the 12 VDC kettle with beefier cable and an Anderson plug made things run cooler, resulting in an efficiency bump of about 10%. This cut the time required to get the water boiling by around 6 minutes.

Added to this test were an induction hob and an iso-butane-powered Jetboil, both of which scored rather unimpressively. For the induction option it’s obvious that a lot of energy is wasted by having the pan radiate it away from the water, while burning iso-butane loses energy through the exhaust gases. Ultimately what you pick to boil water with should thus be mostly determined by convenience rather than sheer physics.

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Heating A Woodshop With Sawdust

March 24, 2026 by Bryan Cockfield 16 Comments

Most carpenters and woodworkers find themselves with the problem of disposing of all the sawdust they create when performing their craft. There are lots of creative solutions to this problem, such as adding it compost, using it as groundcover in a garden, adding it as filler in a composting toilet, or pressing it into bricks to burn in a stove. All of these have their uses, but involve either transporting the sawdust somewhere or performing some intermediate step to process it. [Greenhill Forge] wanted to make more direct use of it so he built this stove which can burn the sawdust directly and which provides enough heat for his woodshop.

The design is based on one which is somewhat common in Japan and involves building a vessel with a central tube for airflow, with the sawdust packed around it. The tube is made from a hardware cloth or screen to allow air to reach the sawdust. The fire is lit from the top, closed, and then allowed to burn through the stack. [Greenhill Forge] welded the entire stove from various pieces of sheet metal and bar stock, with a glass plate at the top of the stove to close off the fire and a baffle to control the airflow and rate of burn.

Initially, [Greenhill Forge] thought that the fire would burn from the top down, but this turned out to create a smoldery, messy fire instead of a hot, clean burn. Eventually, though, an ember fell down to the bottom and let the stack burn from the top up, and then it started generating serious heat. He estimates that with around 5 kg of sawdust burning for three hours that it’s about equivalent to a 6 kW stove. While a woodworker might not have enough sawdust to run this stove every day, it could be good to have on hand to use once every few weeks when the sawdust builds up enough. [Greenhill Forge] has been hard at work building unique wood burning stoves lately, like this one we recently featured which generates and then uses charcoal as fuel.

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Off-Grid Electricity And Hot Water From Scrap Wood

March 14, 2026 by Bryan Cockfield 41 Comments

Cooking with charcoal is a fairly common human activity, as much as others have come to prefer fuels like propane and propane accessories for their outdoor, summertime grilling. Although it’s made from wood, it has properties that make it much more useful for cooking — including burning at a higher temperature and with more consistent burn rates. It can also be used as a fuel for generating heat and electricity, but since it’s not typically found lying around in the forest it has to be produced, which [Greenhill Forge] has demonstrated his charcoal production system in one of his latest videos.

The process for creating charcoal is fairly simple. All that needs to happen is for wood to be heated beyond a certain temperature in the absence of oxygen. At this point it will off-gas the water stored in it as well as some of the volatile organic compounds, and what’s left behind is a flammable carbon residue. Those volatile organics are flammable as well, though, so [Greenhill Forge] uses them to heat the wood in a self-sustaining reaction. First, a metal retort is constructed from a metal ammo box, with a pipe extending from the side and then underneath the box. A few holes are drilled in this part, and the apparatus is mounted above a small fire on a metal stand. With the fire lit the wood begins heating, and as it heats these compounds exit the pipe and ignite, adding further fuel to the fire. Eventually the small fire will go out, allowing the retort to heat itself on the gasses released from the wood alone.

To generate the hot water, [Greenhill Forge] has taken an extra step and enclosed the retort in a double walled metal cylinder. Inside the cylinder is a copper tube packed in sand, which harvests the waste heat from the charcoal production for hot water. In his test runs, the water in a large drum was heated to the point that the tubing he used for the test began to melt, so it is certainly working better than he expected.

After the retort cools, [Greenhill Forge] uses the charcoal in another process that generates about a days’ worth of electricity and hot water. It’s part of a complete off-grid system that’s fairly carbon neutral, since trees are an abundant renewable resource compared to fossil fuels. Heating with wood directly is still common in many cold areas around the world, with the one major downside being the labor required to keep the stove running. But we’ve seen at least one project which solves this problem as well.

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The Only Snail You Want In Your Garden Is A Seed-Starting Hack

February 28, 2026 by Tyler August 11 Comments

As temperatures warm up in the Northern Hemisphere, one’s mind naturally turns to the outdoors and the garden — even if some of our gardens are still snow-covered. One secret to good gardening is that many of the plants we love take too long to grow if started from seed outside, at least in relatively temperate climes. There are a myriad of ways to grow seedlings indoors, and this new hack highlighted by [GrowVeg] looks like a great way to get started.

The idea apparently comes from the seedier side of Instagram, where [Farida Sober] has been popularizing it as a “seed snail”, a name they seem to have coined. The technique is very simple: take a sheet of something cheap that won’t disintegrate when moist like bubble wrap or cardboard, layer it with soil — up to 5 cm depending on your seed size — and you roll the whole thing up like a piece of sushi to produce the spiral shape that gives the hack its name. With a piece of tape to hold the roll, it’s just a matter of planting your seeds according to the packet directions. If that’s clear as mud, check out the video embedded below.

Once the seedlings have grown, it looks like it will be very easy to unroll the spiral and pluck them out to plant in the ground or bigger pots without overly traumatizing their roots, like we always do starting in flats. If it weren’t for those delicate roots, it certainly looks like the snail might save some space compared to, say, peat pots. Just remember that starting under the proper LEDs can make a huge difference to how quickly your seeds grow. No dirt? No problem — once sprouted, your plants can be made to grow hydroponically. For the really adventurous, there’s even aeroponics.

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