2026 Green Power Challenge: NFC Powers Command Write And Wake Of MCU

One of the more interesting categories of our ongoing Green Power Challenge is “anything but PV” — and since the radiated power of Near Field Communication is decidedly not photovoltaic, this hack by [caspar] to control a Pi Pico W from his phone using a tuned antenna absolutely counts.

Now, of course you’re not going to power the whole microcontroller that way, but [caspar] figures you don’t need to: the MCU is hooked to a battery, but through a transistor. That means it’s not asleep, but fully un-powered: only the leakage current of the transistor is draining that battery, so it can last a very long time. The waking is handled with a tuned NFC antenna hooked to a ST25DV04KC NFC chip. This chip is designed to be powered via NFC, and of course to accept commands. The ST25 then wakes the Pico — one GIPO on the MCU is used to latch that power transistor ON — and passes on the command via I2C.

Our favorite part might be the script he put on the Pico to live-tune the antenna coil, which you can see demoed in a video below, along with simplest possible demonstration of starting blinky on the Pico from the phone.

You aren’t limited to just a Pico and a blinky LED as in his proof-of-concept demo: [caspar] also uses the same technique with an e-ink display, which is pretty similar to the e-ink price tags you’ve likely seen at the grocery store, without the joy of reverse engineering.

Also without batteries, which is pretty neat, and arguably pretty green. If you’ve been hacking away at something that uses alternative energy, this challenge is still open — just get your project onto Hackaday.io and submitted by April 27.

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2026 Green Powered Challenge: The Eternal Headphones

Noise cancelling headphones are a great way to insulate yourself from the bustle of the city, but due to their power requirements, continuous use means frequent recharging. [Alessandro Sgarzi] has an elegant and unique solution — powering the noise cancelling electronics by harvesting energy from the ambient noise of the city via a sheet of piezoelectric film.

This impressive feat is achieved using a LTC3588-1 power harvesting IC and a pair of supercapacitors, while an STM32L011K4T6 microcontroller processes the input from a MEMS microphone and feeds a low-power class D amplifier. This circuit consumes an astounding 1.7 nW, a power that a noisy city is amply able to supply. Audio meanwhile comes via a traditional 3.5 mm connector, which we are told is the cool kids’ choice nowadays anyway.

We like this project, and since it’s part of our 2026 Green Powered Challenge, it’s very much in the spirit of the thing. You’ve just got time to get your own entry in, so get a move on!

SolMate Charger

2026 Green Powered Challenge: SolMate Charges On The Move

We’ve all had those times when your electrical device of choice is running low on battery. Sometimes you even plan ahead and are also carrying a battery pack, but what happens when you’ve forgotten to charge the battery pack? This is the problem that [Arnov Sharma] addressed with the SolMate, a portable solar panel that keeps a battery bank topped up.

The SolMate is built around an efficient 2 W photovoltaic panel that’s not much bigger than a cellphone. This panel can supply 5 V at 400 mA on a sunny day. The solar output is more than enough to keep the internal 2000 mAh battery topped up and ready for use. Charging the Li-ion battery is handled by an IP5306 power management chip, which pulls double duty: it safely regulates charging while boosting the battery’s 3.7 V to the 5 V expected at the USB charge ports. Speaking of charge ports, the SolMate includes both a USB-A and a USB-C port, plus a switch to enable or disable the unit.

The case is all 3D printed, with some clever design choices. Offsetting the bulk of the battery and PCB storage area to one side lets the SolMate naturally cant toward the sun. Even the clip used to attach it to a backpack is printed.

Be sure to check out the other entries into our latest challenge!

2026 Green Powered Challenge: Solar Powered Pi Hosts Websites In RAM

If you started with computers early enough, you’ll remember the importance of the RAMdisk concept: without a hard drive and with floppies slow and swapping constantly, everything had to live in RAM. That’s not done much these days, but [Quackieduckie]’s solar powered Pi Zero W web server has gone back to it to save its SD card.

Sustainability and low power is the name of the game. Starting with a Pi Zero W means low power is the default; a an SLS-printed aluminum case that doubles as the heat sink– while looking quite snazzy–saves power that would otherwise be used for cooling. The STLs are available through the project page if you like the look and have a hankering for passively cooled Pi. Even under load [Quackieduckie] reports temperatures of just 29.9°C,  less than a degree over idle.

The software stack is of course key to a server, and here he’s using Alpine Linux running in “diskless mode”– that’s the equivalent of what us oldsters would think of as the RAMdisk. That’s not that unusual for servers, but we don’t see it much on these pages. It’s a minimal setup to save processing, and thus electrical power, with only a handful of services kept running: lighttpd, a lightweight webserver, and duckiebox, a python-based file server, along with SSHD and dchron; together they consume 27 MB of RAM, leaving the rest of the 512 MB DDR2 the Pi comes with to quickly serve up websites without the overhead of SD card access.

As a webserver, [Quackieduckie] tested it with 50 simultaneous connections, which would be rather a lot for most small, personal web sites, and while it did slow down to an average 1.3s per response that’s perfectly usable and faster than we’d have expected from this hardware. While the actual power consumption figures aren’t given, we know from experience it’s not going to be drawing more than a watt or so. With a reasonably sized battery and solar cell– [Quackieduckie] suggests 20W–it should run until the cows come home.

This isn’t the first solar-powered web server we’ve seen, but this one was submitted for the 2026 Green Powered Challenge, which runs until April 24th.

Burning Wood To Brew Wood To Preserve Wood : Pine Tar

Before there was pressure-treated wood, before modern paints, there was pine tar. Everything from tool handles to wagons to ships were made of wood preserved with pine tar, once upon a time, and [woodbrew] wants to show you how to make it, how to use it, and why you might put it on your skin.

It starts with, you guessed it, pine! In the first part of the video, [woodbrew] creates a skin salve with pine resin and food-safe oil. The pine resin–which is the sticky goop that dries around wounds on evergreen trees–is highly antiseptic and has been used in wound salves since the stone age. The process is easy: melt it in a double boiler, then mix with equal parts oil. [woodbrew] also adds a touch of beeswax to firm it up, an a little eucalyptus extract for extra germ-killing power, and a nice smell to boot.

That’ll preserve your hands, but what about preserving wood?  That starts at about 9 minutes in, and for that you’re going to need a lot more resin, so picking it off wounded trees like he does at the start of the video won’t work. [woodbrew] suggests starting with dead-or-dying pines, and harvesting the crooks of their branches for “fatwood” — wood with the highest resin content. He also suggests the center of stumps, again of trees that died or were severely injured before being cut down. Then it’s a matter of cooking those fine organic molecules out. This is where we burn the wood to save the wood. Well, to save other wood. Wood we didn’t burn, obviously.

The distillation process [woodbrew] uses it fairly traditional, and consists of a couple of buckets. One bucket is buried and collects the pine tar; the other, with holes in the bottom to allow the tar to drip out, is filled with fatwood and covered tightly before being surrounded by firewood which is set alight. You could use an alternate source of heat here, but if you just cut down a pine tree for its fatwood, well, you’d have the rest of the tree to work with. Inside the fatwood bucket, the heat of the fire cooks off the volatile compounds that make pine tar, while the lack of oxygen from being closed up keeps it from burning. Burying the collection bucket keeps it from getting so hot the volatiles all boil off.

If this sounds like the process for making charcoal or woodgas, that’s because it is! He’s letting the gas fraction flare off here, but you could probably capture it– though a true gasifier brakes the tar down into gaseous compounds as well. The charcoal of course stays in the bucket as a bonus.

To make it usable as a wood finish, [woodbrew] mixes his homemade pine tar 50:50 with linseed oil, thining it to a spreadable consistency that helps it penetrate deep into the wood. By filling the voids in the wood, this mixture will help keep moisture out, and the antiseptic properties of the organic soup that is pine tar will help keep fungi at bay for potentially decades to come.

Thanks to [Keith Olson] for the tip!

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Chicken Coop Door Performs In Harsh Environment

One of the pitfalls of modern engineering is that it’s entirely possible to end up in a situation where a product or solution has been designed by someone who has never left a desk. Which wouldn’t be a problem if things didn’t have a tendency to work differently in real life than they do in theory.

One of those things is automatic chicken coop doors, which have to operate reliably in not only a wide range of climates but with a number of possible physical limitations as well. [Vinnie] has taken on the challenge of building one which actually accomplishes all of these tasks, after realizing that the off-the-shelf solutions were victims of design over practicality.

[Vinnie] designed this door to be operated by the one thing that’s always 100% reliable: gravity. A linear actuator lifts the door at the beginning of the day, and then at night it’s allowed to fall back down in its track. A latch secures it against smarter intruders like raccoons. [Vinnie] has found that this lifting mechanism holds up much better in mud, snow, ice, and other difficult conditions than any other method he’s tried so far.

The system is built around a ATmega1284P, and calculates the sunrise and sunset times each day to know when to open or close the door. He’s built the system as a state machine which makes it more robust during power outages, which is a necessity since his chicken coop is mobile and is frequently out of range of WiFi and is battery powered.

The approach [Vinnie] takes to automation is something that has application outside of his own farmstead. Using state machines instead of schedules, ensuring the design is as simple as possible and works within its environment, and minimizing reliance on electric and data infrastructure can go a long way to solving problems that might not appear when designing something on paper.

He’s been automating many other things on his farm as well, and it’s worth checking it out if you haven’t seen it already.

Addressing The Divisive Topic That Is Boiling Water

The topic of boiling water is apparently a rather divisive topic, with plenty of strong opinions to go around on what is safe and the most efficient way to go about it. Thus in a new video [Cahn] sought to address the many comments that came in after his previous testing of electric kettles on either 12 VDC or 240 VAC.

What’s interesting about this whole topic is that at its core the overall efficiency of boiling water is simply a matter of calculating the energy input minus energy losses, with the remaining energy going into the water.

As we can see in the video, using a higher battery voltage  doesn’t really change the efficiency of a 12 VDC kettle, but the higher current draw does manage to melt a fuse that can’t take the heat — requiring a 20 amp fuse instead of the 15 A one.

One change that does make a difference is how it’s connected. Replacing the thin gauge wiring and the attached cigarette lighter plug on the 12 VDC kettle with beefier cable and an Anderson plug made things run cooler, resulting in an efficiency bump of about 10%. This cut the time required to get the water boiling by around 6 minutes.

Added to this test were an induction hob and an iso-butane-powered Jetboil, both of which scored rather unimpressively. For the induction option it’s obvious that a lot of energy is wasted by having the pan radiate it away from the water, while burning iso-butane loses energy through the exhaust gases. Ultimately what you pick to boil water with should thus be mostly determined by convenience rather than sheer physics.

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