Introduction To MOSFET Switching Losses

Metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistors (MOSFETs) see common use in applications ranging from the very small (like CPU transistors) to very large (power) switching applications. Although its main advantage is its high power efficiency, MOSFETs are not ideal switches with a perfect on or off state. Understanding the three main sources of switching losses is crucial when designing with MOSFETs, with a recent All About Circuits article by [Robert Keim] providing a primer on the subject.

As it’s a primer, the subthreshold mode of MOSFET modes of operation is omitted, leaving the focus on the linear (ohmic) mode where the MOSFET’s drain-source is conducting, but with a resistance that’s determined by the gate voltage. In the saturated mode the drain-source resistance is relatively minor (though still relevant), but the turn-on time (RDS(on)) before this mode is reached is where major switching losses occur. Simply switching faster is not a solution, as driving the gate incurs its own losses, leaving the circuit designer to carefully balance the properties of the MOSFET.

For those interested in a more in-depth study of MOSFETs in e.g. power supplies, there are many articles on the subject, such as this article (PDF) from Texas Instruments.

Custom Polyurethane Belts Made Easy

If you need to make polyurethane belts in custom lengths, it’s not too hard. You just need to take lengths of flexible polyurethane filament, heat the ends, and join them together. In practice, it’s difficult to get it right by hand. That’s why [JBVCreative] built a 3D printed jig to make it easy. 

The jig consists of two printed sliders that mount on a pair of steel rods. Each slider has a screw-down clamp on top. The clamps are used to hold down each end of the polyurethane filament to be joined. Once installed in the jig, the ends of the filament can be heated with a soldering iron or other element. and then gently pushed together. The steel rods simply enable the filament to be constrained linearly so the ends don’t shift during the joining process.

The jig doesn’t produce perfect belts. There’s still a small seam at the join that is larger than the filament’s base diameter. A second jig for trimming the belt to size could be helpful in this regard. Still, it’s a super useful technique for making custom belts. This could be super useful to anyone needing to restore old cassette decks or similar mechanical hardware.

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Power Resistance Isn’t Futile

As [Electronoobs] points out, everything has resistance. So, how hard can it be to make a high-power resistor? In the video below, he examines a commercial power resistor and how to make your own using nichrome wire.

Sure, in theory, you can use a long piece of wire, but normally, you want to minimize the amount of space occupied. This leads to winding the wire around some substrate. If you just wind the wire, though, you get an inductor. This can cause nasty voltage spikes when there is a change in current through the resistor. You can get “noninductive” wire wound resistors that use either two opposing windings or alternate the turn direction on each turn. This causes the magnetic fields to tend to cancel out, reducing the overall inductance.

Nichrome wire has more resistance per millimeter and can dissipate more power. Modern digital meters can measure the resistance of a wire if you account for the test leads. To make a substrate, [Electronoobs] got creative since he anticipated generating a lot of heat. The final product even uses water cooling.

Why do you want a big resistor? Maybe you need a dummy load, or you want to drain some batteries. If you want to recycle nichrome wire, it is much more common than you might expect.

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Protoboard Z80 Computer Teaches The Basics

As curious people, we’re all incredibly fortunate to live in an age where information can so easily be obtained. If you want to learn how something works, from a cotton gin to an RBMK reactor, you’re just a few keystrokes away from articles, diagrams, and videos on the subject. But as helpful as all of that information can be, we also know that there’s no substitute for hands-on experience.

While we can’t recommend you try building a miniature graphite-moderated nuclear reactor, there’s plenty of other devices that you can study by constructing your own functioning model. For example, when [Jorisclayton] wanted to really know what was going on inside a computer, they decided to go back to basics and build their own Z80 machine. To maximize the experience, they skipped any of the existing kit designs and instead wired the whole thing up by hand across a few perfboards.

The main board contains a 4 MHz Z80 processor, paired with 32K ROM and 64K RAM. Here you’ll also find the clock generator, I/O decoder, serial port, voltage regulator, and a trio of expansion slots that use a long strip of 2.54 mm pin headers as the interface. In the first expansion slot you’ve got a primordial “graphics card” based around the TMS9918 video display controller (VDC) and 16K of additional RAM. The second expansion card has a CompactFlash reader and an LED array mapped to I/O address 0x00h so it can be used for various notifications.

[Jorisclayton] says the final expansion board is still being worked on, but the idea is for it to handle user input through a PS/2 keyboard connector, as well as provide ports for a pair of Super Nintendo (or compatible) controllers. Everything is held together with a minimalist 3D printed frame to show off all that careful soldering.

Obviously there’s no PCB design files to share for this one, but [Jorisclayton] has posted a schematic for wiring everything up if you’re looking for resources to build your own Z80 computer. Sure the chips themselves might no longer be in production, but that doesn’t mean this venerable CPU is going anywhere just yet.

3D Printed Fidget Knife Snaps Back And Forth All Day Long

Fidget toys all have a satisfying mechanical action to engage with, and [uhltimate]’s OTF (out the front) “fidget knife” model provides that in spades. The model snaps open and closed thanks to a clever arrangement of springs and latches contained in only three printed pieces.

Here’s how it works: at rest, the mock blade (orange in the image above) is latched in the closed position. As one presses the slider forward, the bottom spring begins to pull up against the blade until it moves far enough to release the latch. When the latch is released, the tension built up in the spring propels the blade outward where it again latches in the open position. Retraction is the same essential process, just in the opposite direction (and using a latch on the opposite side of the blade, which faces the other direction.)

As you may imagine, effective operation depends on the material. The model is designed to be printed in PLA, but [uhltimate] also provides a part variation with a stiffer spring for those who find that basic model isn’t quite up to the task for whatever reason. Smooth surfaces are also helpful for hitch-free operation, but lubrication shouldn’t be necessary.

If this sort of thing is up your alley, don’t miss the satisfying snap action of this 3D printed toggle mechanism, either!

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Put More Korry In Your Flight Sim Switches

Never underestimate how far some flight simulator aficionados will go with their builds. No detail is too small, and every aspect of the look and feel has to accurately reflect the real cockpit. As a case in point, check out these very realistic Korry buttons that [Santi Luib III] built for an Airbus A320 simulator.

Now, you might never have heard of a “Korry button” before, but chances are you’ve seen them, at least in photos of commercial or military aircraft cockpits. Korry is a manufacturer of switches and annunciators for the avionics industry, and the name has become shorthand for similar switches. They’ve got a very particular look and feel and are built to extremely high standards, as one hopes that anything going into a plane would be. That makes the real switches very expensive, far more so than even the most dedicated homebrew sim builder would be comfortable with.

That’s where [Santi] comes in. His replica Korry buttons are built from off-the-shelf parts like LEDs and switches mounted to custom PCBs. The PCB was designed for either momentary or latching switches, and can support multiple LEDs in different colors. The assembled PCBs snap into 3D printed enclosures with dividers to keep light from bleeding through from one legend to the other.

The lenses are laser-cut translucent acrylic painted with urethane paint before the legends are engraved with a laser. The attention to detail on the labels is impressive. [Santi]’s process, which includes multiple coats of sealers, gets them looking just right. Even the LEDs are carefully selected: blue LEDs are too bright and aren’t quite the proper shade, so [Santi] uses white LEDs that are dimmed down with a bigger resistor and a light blue photographic gel to get the tint just right.

These buttons are just beautiful, and seeing a panel full of them with the proper back-lighting must be pretty thrilling. If civil aviation isn’t your thing, check out this A-10 “Warthog” cockpit sim, and the cool switches needed to make it just right.

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Simplest Speaker Oscillator, Now Even Simpler

It never fails. Lay down some kind of superlative — fastest, cheapest, smallest — around this place and someone out there says, “Hold my beer” and gets to work. In this case, it’s another, even simpler audio oscillator, this time with just a loudspeaker and a battery.

Attentive readers will recall the previous title holder was indeed pretty simple, consisting only of the mic and speaker from an old landline telephone handset wired in series with a battery. Seeing this reminded [Hydrogen Time] of a lucky childhood accident while experimenting with a loudspeaker, which he recreates in the video below. The BOM for this one is even smaller than the previous one — just a small speaker and a battery, plus a small scrap of solid hookup wire. The wire is the key; rather than connecting directly to the speaker terminal, it connects to the speaker frame on one end while the other is carefully adjusted to just barely touch the flexible wire penetrating the speaker cone on its way to the voice coil.

When power is applied with the correct polarity, current flows through the wire into the voice coil, which moves the cone and breaks the circuit. The speaker’s diaphragm resets the cone, completing the circuit and repeating the whole process. The loudspeaker makes a little click with each cycle, leading to a very rough-sounding oscillator. [Hydrogen Time] doesn’t put a scope on it, but we suspect the waveform would be a ragged square wave whose frequency depends on the voltage, the spring constant of the diaphragm, and the spacing between the fixed wire and the voice coil lead.

Yes, we realize this is stretching the definition of an audio oscillator somewhat, but you’ve got to admit it’s simple. Can you get it even simpler?

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