Using A 2D Scanner To Make 3D Things

[Chuck Hellebuyck] wanted to clone some model car raceway track and realised that by scanning the profile section of the track with a flatbed scanner and post-processing in Tinkercad, a useable cross-section model could be created. This was then extruded into 3D to make a pretty accurate-looking clone of the original part. Of course, using a flatbed paper scanner to create things other than images is nothing new, if you can remember to do it. A common example around here is scanning PCBs to capture mechanical details.

The goal was to construct a complex raceway for the grandkids, so he needed numerous pieces, some of which were curved and joined at different angles to allow the cars to race downhill. After printing a small test section using Ninjaflex, he found a way to join rigid track sections in curved areas. It was nice to see that modern 3D printers can handle printing tall, thin sections of this track vertically without making too much of a mess. This fun project demonstrates that you can easily combine 3D-printed custom parts with off-the-shelf items to achieve the desired result with minimal effort.

Flatbed scanner hacks are so plentiful it’s hard to choose a few! Here’s using a scanner to recreate a really sad-looking PCB, hacking a scanner to scan things way too big for it, and finally just using a scanner as a linear motion stage to create a UV exposure unit for DIY PCBs.

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A Journey Into Unexpected Serial Ports

Through all the generations of computing devices from the era of the teleprinter to the present day, there’s one interface that’s remained universal. Even though its usefulness as an everyday port has decreased in the face of much faster competition, it’s fair to say that everything has a serial port on board somewhere. Even with that ubiquity though, there’s still some scope for variation.

Older ports and those that are still exposed via a D socket are in most case the so-called RS-232, a higher voltage port, while your microcontroller debug port will be so-called TTL (transistor-transistor logic), operating at logic level. That’s not quite always the case though, as [Terin Stock] found out with an older Garmin GPS unit.

Pleasingly for a three decade old device, given a fresh set of batteries it worked. The time was wrong, but after some fiddling and a Windows 98 machine spun up it applied a Garmin update from 1999 that fixed it. When hooked up to a Flipper Zero though, and after a mild panic about voltage levels, the serial port appeared to deliver garbage. There followed some investigation, with an interesting conclusion that TTL serial is usually the inverse of RS-232 serial, The Garmin had the RS-232 polarity with TTL levels, allowing it to work with many PC serial ports. A quick application of an inverter fixed the problem, and now Garmin and Flipper talk happily.

A very tiny keyboard with RGB backlighting.

Tiny Custom Keyboard Gets RGB

Full-size keyboards are great for actually typing on and using for day-to-day interfacing duties. They’re less good for impressing the Internet. If you really want to show off, you gotta go really big — or really small. [juskim] went the latter route, and added RGB to boot!

This was [juskim]’s attempt to produce the world’s smallest keyboard. We can’t guarantee that, but it’s certainly very small. You could readily clasp it within a closed fist. It uses a cut down 60% key layout, but it’s still well-featured, including numbers, letters, function keys, and even +,-, and =. The build uses tiny tactile switches that are SMD mounted on a custom PCB. An ATmega32U4 is used as the microcontroller running the show, which speaks USB to act as a standard human interface device (HID). The keycaps and case are tiny 3D printed items, with six RGB LEDs installed inside for the proper gamer aesthetic. The total keyboard measures 66 mm x 21 mm.

Don’t expect to type fast on this thing. [juskim] only managed 14 words per minute. If you want to be productive, consider a more traditional design.

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Remapping HID For Fun And… Well Fun

If you want to remap some mouse or keyboard keys, and you use Linux, it is easy. If you use Windows or another operating system, you can probably do that without too much trouble. But what if you use all of them? Or what if you don’t have access to the computer in question? Thanks to [jfedor2], you can reach for a Raspberry Pi Pico and make this handy key-and-mouse remapping hardware dongle.

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Handsome Sim Racing Button Box Is A Super Easy Build

Sim racing is a lot more complex than playing Need For Speed 3: Hot Pursuit. You need buttons for all kinds of stuff, from headlights to brake balance to traction control. If you want to control all that in an intuitive and realistic manner, you’ll want to build yourself a decent button pad like [Chris Haye] has done. It’s surprisingly easy, too!

Very cool.

[Chris] is quite a serious racer, and needed four button boxes. He wanted to do this on the cheap, so he decided to build his first three boxes around the Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder, a cheap controller board available on eBay for around £7. Arcade buttons were sourced off Amazon to populate the black project boxes which acted as the housings.

His final button pad looks straight out of a GT3 race car, but it’s the simplest of the bunch. It’s literally just a USB numpad with a carbon vinyl wrap applied and some home-printed labels. One suspects the feel isn’t particularly high-quality but the look is top tier. If you’re a streamer that wants to build a hardcore-looking setup, this is a great way to go.

[Chris] estimates that each box took maybe an hour to build, tops. It’s a great example of solution-focused design. He could have gotten out his own microcontroller and done a custom PCB and all that, and the results surely would have been good. But it would have taken far longer! It’s hard to beat the speed of wiring together Amazon arcade buttons with the Arcade USB Encoder’s pre-terminated wire harness. If you’re more interested in sim racing than building button boxes, it’s a great way to do a custom pad fast.

Best of all? [Chris] says he managed to put these all together for £60—quite a feat of bargain engineering. We’ve featured some other builds along these lines before, too—even using vintage aircraft controls! Video after the break.

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Cheap DIY Button Pad Uses Neat Punchcard Trick

A StreamDeck is effectively a really cool box full of colorful buttons that activate various things on your PC. They’re fun and cool but they’re also something you can build yourself if you’re so inclined. [Jason] did just that for his sim racing setup, and he included some nifty old-school tech as well.

An ESP32 is at the core of the build, listening to button presses and communicating with the PC. However, the build doesn’t actually use regular buttons. Instead, it uses infrared sensors wired up in a matrix. This was an intentional choice, because [Jason] wanted the device to be reconfigurable with different paper card overlays. There are ways to do this with regular buttons too, but it works particularly well with the infrared technique. Plus, each button also gets a Neopixel allowing its color to be changed to suit different button maps.

What’s really neat is that the button maps change instantly when a different overlay card is inserted. [Jason] achieved this with an extra row of infrared sensors to detect punched holes in the bottom of the overlay cards.

Once upon a time, even building your own keyboard was an uphill battle. Today, it’s easier than ever to whip up fun and unique interface devices that suit your own exact needs. That’s a good thing! Video after the break.

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A Tiny Knob Keeps You In Control

There are many forms of human interface device beyond the ubiquitous keyboard and mouse, but when it comes to fine-tuning a linear setting such as a volume control there’s nothing quite like a knob. When it comes to peripherals it’s not the size that matters, as proven by  [Stefan Wagner] with the Tiny Knob. It’s a very small PCB with a rotary encoder and knob, an ATtiny85, a USB port, and not much else.

It uses the V-USB software implementation of USB HID, and should you have a need for a Tiny Knob of your own you can find all the files for it in a GitHub repository. There’s even a very professional-looking 3D-printed enclosure for the finishing touch. We like this project for its simplicity, and we think you might too.

Over the years we’ve brought you more than one knob, they appear to be a popular subject for experimentation. If you’re up for more, have a look at this one.