Quick And Very Dirty Repair Gets Smoked PLC Back In The Game

When electronics release the Magic Smoke, more often than not it’s a fairly sedate event. Something overheats, the packaging gets hot enough to emit that characteristic and unmistakable odor, and wisps of smoke begin to waft up from the defunct component. Then again, sometimes the Magic Smoke is more like the Magic Plasma, as was the case in this absolutely smoked Omron programmable logic controller.

Normally, one tasked with repairing such a thing would just write the unit off and order a replacement. But [Defpom] needed to get the pump controlled by this PLC back online immediately, leading to the somewhat unorthodox repair in the video below. Whatever happened to this poor device happened rapidly and energetically, taking out two of the four relay-controlled outputs. [Defpom]’s initial inspection revealed that the screw terminals for one of the relays no longer existed, one relay enclosure was melted open, its neighbor was partially melted, and a large chunk of the PCB was missing. Cleaning up the damaged relays revealed what the “FR” in “FR4” stands for, as the fiberglass weave of the board was visible after the epoxy partly burned away before self-extinguishing.

With the damaged components removed and the dangerously conductive carbonized sections cut away, [Defpom] looked for ways to make a temporary repair. The PLC’s program was locked, making it impossible to reprogram it to use the unaffected outputs. Instead, he redirected the driver transistor for the missing relay two to the previously unused and still intact relay one, while adding an outboard DIN-mount relay to replace relay three. In theory, that should allow the system to work with its existing program and get the system back online.

Did it work? Sadly, we don’t know, as the video stops before we see the results. But we can’t see a reason for it not to work, at least temporarily while a new PLC is ordered. Of course, the other solution here could have been to replace the PLC with an Arduino, but this seems like the path of least resistance. Which, come to think of it, is probably what caused the damage in the first place.

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Ruined 1993 ThinkPad Tablet Brought Back From The Brink

Collecting retrocomputers is fun, especially when you find fully-functional examples that you can plug in, switch on, and start playing with. Meanwhile, others prefer to find the damaged examples and nurse them back to health. [polymatt] can count himself in that category, as evidenced by his heroic rescue of an 1993 IBM ThinkPad Tablet.

The tablet came to [polymatt] in truly awful condition. Having been dropped at least once, the LCD screen was cracked, the case battered, and all the plastics were very much the worse for wear. Many of us would consider it too far gone, especially considering that replacement parts for such an item are virtually unobtainable. And yet, [polymatt] took on the challenge nonetheless.

Despite its condition, there were some signs of life in the machine. The pen-based touch display seemed to respond to the pen itself, and the backlight sort of worked, too. Still, with the LCD so badly damaged, it had to be replaced. Boggling the mind, [polymatt] was actually able to find a 9.4″ dual-scan monochrome LCD that was close enough to sort-of fit, size-wise. To make it work, though, it needed a completely custom mount to fit with the original case and electromagnetic digitizes sheet. From there, there was plenty more to do—recapping, recabling, fixing the batteries, and repairing the enclosure including a fresh set of nice decals.

The fact is, 1993 IBM ThinkPad Tablets just don’t come along every day. These rare specimens are absolutely worth this sort of heroic restoration effort if you do happen to score one on the retro market. Video after the break.

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Repairing The Questionable £25,000 Tom Evans Audiophile Pre-Amp

One of the power supply boards in the Tom Evans Mastergroove SR MkIII preamplifier. (Credit: Mend it Mark, YouTube)
One of the power supply boards in the Tom Evans Mastergroove SR MkIII preamplifier. (Credit: Mend it Mark, YouTube)

It’s not much of a secret that in the world of ‘audiophile gear’ there is a lot of snake oil and deception, including many products that are at best of questionable value. The Tom Evans Mastergroove SR mkIII preamplifier is one example of this, as [Mark] from the Mend it Mark YouTube channel found in a recent video when he got one to repair which the manufacturer claimed ‘could not be fixed’. This marvel of audio engineering provides amplification for record players, for the low-low price of only twenty-five thousand quid, or about 29.000 US bucks. So what’s inside one of these expensive marvels?

Claiming to be a high-end unit, with only ten units produced per year, you’d expect a gold-plated PCB with excellent noise isolation. The unit does come with an absolutely massive external power supply that dwarfs the preamplifier itself, but the real surprise came after opening up the unit itself to take a peek at the damage, some of which was caused by transport.

As it turns out, the inside of the preamplifier consists out of four stacks of rather cheap, home-made looking boards with what looks like improvised RF shielding in the form of bare PCBs and filed-off markings on many parts. In between the rat’s nest of wiring running everywhere, [Mark] had to trace the broken channel’s wiring, creating a full repair manual in the process. Along the way one of the opamp boards was found to be defective, courtesy of a single shorted tantalum capacitor.

With the tantalum capacitor replaced, [Mark] had repaired the unit, but even though the preamplifier isn’t terribly designed, the illusion of its price tag has been shattered worse than the contents of a parcel kicked across the parking lot by the Royal Mail.

Thanks to [Jim] for the tip.

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Reviewing The World’s 2nd Smallest Thermal Camera

A thermal camera is a very handy tool to have, and [Learn Electronics Repair] wanted to try out the Thermal Master P2 for electronic repair, especially since it claims to have a 15 X digital zoom and 1.5 degree accuracy. The package proudly states the device is the “World 2nd Smallest Thermal Camera” — when only the second best will do.

The camera is tiny and connects to a PC or directly to a tablet or phone via USB C. However, it did look easier to use on the end of a cable for probing things like a PC motherboard. The focus was fairly long, so you couldn’t get extremely close to components with the camera. The zoom somewhat makes up for that, but of course, as you might expect, zooming in doesn’t give you any additional resolution.

He also compares the output with that of a multimeter he uses that includes an IR camera (added to our holiday gift list). That multimeter/camera combo focuses quite closely, which is handy when picking out a specific component. It also has a macro lens, which can zoom up even more.

We’ve looked at — or, more accurately, through — IR cameras in the past. If you are on a tight budget and you have a 3D printer, you might try this method for thermal imaging, but it doesn’t use the printer the way you probably think.

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Fix That Old Remote With Graphite

A button that stopped working has probably led to more than a few smashed remotes over the years. Fortunately [pescado99] has shared a beautifully simple cure for dead or dying remote buttons: graphite dry lubricant.

Most remotes operate by pushing a conductive carbon coating on the back of the button onto a pair of contacts on the PCB. Unfortunately, that conductive coating can wear off, leaving you with a dead or dying button. The video after the break [pescado99] demonstrates how to use a cotton swab to apply powdered graphite to the rear of the buttons to make them conductive again. A soft pencil can also be used, but the graphite works better.

This beautifully simple hack is too good not to share and could save many remotes from landfills. If you’re more interested in upgrading remote, you can build your own universal remote or replace it with a web browser.

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Close up of a DA14 nixie multimeter

The Nixie Tube Multimeter That Almost Made A Comeback

In a world of digital monotony, the Avo DA14 digital multimeter, with its vintage nixie tube charm, is a refreshing gem. Recently refurbished by [Thomas Scherrer], this multimeter video review is a blend of nostalgia and tech savvy. The DA14 not only has style, but substance — delivering resistance, current, and voltage measurements that make you wonder why more multimeters didn’t stick with this stylish glow.

As [Thomas] starts by powering up the DA14, we were instantly captivated as the Nixie tubes illuminate in their retro orange. With each twist of the dial, he demonstrates just how intuitive the multimeter is to operate, walking us viewers through each function while giving some extra love to its calibration process—a neat front-panel potentiometer that requires just a touch of finesse to get perfect readings.

But, as with all good tinkering tales, things go downhill when issues with analog inputs and the display pop up. A teardown reveals a beautifully complex inner assembly of transformers, rectifiers, and circuit boards, giving the DA14 its impressive yet fragile structure. When the critical defective display chip is found, hopes for a full repair dim. His story ends without a revival, but if you want to see a similar attempt that did get resurrected – albeit without those nixie digits – take a look at this LCD transplant we covered previously.

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Cataract Surgery For An Old TV

TVs used to be round, and the GE M935AWL is a great example of that. [bandersentv] found one of these ancient sets, but found it had a “cataract”—a large ugly discoloration on the tube. He set about repairing the tube and the set, restoring this grand old piece back to working order.

The video begins with the removal of the round CRT tube. Once it’s extracted from the set, it’s placed in a round garbage can which serves as a handy work stand for the unique device. It’s all delicate work as it’s very easy to damage a picture tube, particularly an old one. Removing the discoloration is quite a job—the problem is caused by adhesive holding the front layer safety glass on, which has going bad over the years. It requires lots of heat to remove. In doing this repair, [bandersentv] notes he’s also giving up the safety of the original extra glass layer on the front of the tube. Worth noting if you’re worried about a given tube’s integrity.

Of course, cleaning the tube is just part of the job. [bandersentv] then gave us a second video in which he returns the tube to its original home and gets the TV back up and running. The quality is surprisingly good given what poor shape the tube was in to begin with.

It’s funny, because modern TV repair is altogether a rather different affair.

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