Bicycle Tubes Aren’t Just Made Of Rubber Anymore

For the average rider, inner tubes have been one of the most enduring and unchanging parts of bicycle design over the decades. They’re made of rubber, they have a Schrader or Presta valve, and they generally do an okay job at cushioning the ride.

However, if you’re an above-average rider, or just obsessive about your gear, you might consider butyl rubber tubes rather old hat. Today, there are far fancier—and more expensive—options on the market if you’re looking to squeeze every drip of performance out of your bike.

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Digital Signal Processing On The Pi Pico

If you want to dabble in audio digital signal processing, you would probably think of grabbing a dedicated DSP chip. But thanks to [WeebLabs], you could just pick up a Pi Pico and use this full-featured DSP library.

The system supports plug-and-play USB audio interface that enumerates on Windows, Linux, macOS, and iOS. It can handle 16- or 24-bit inputs at up to 96 kHz. You can output up to four channels of 24-bit S/PDIF or I2S, or switch to an RP2350 to get eight channels. This lets you drive a DAC easily. There is also a direct output for a subwoofer that doesn’t require a DAC.

Each channel has a pre-amp, and a matrix mixer allows routing with different gains and phases for each input. An equalizer allows ten bands per channel. There are also modules to do volume leveling, loudness compensation, and headphone cross-feed.

The library uses both cores of the CPU and manages up to ten preset configurations. The Pico does get an overclock and uses a fixed-point representation. The Pico 2 (RP2350) doesn’t need overclocking and uses single-precision floating point.

Overall, this looks like a great base for any sort of soundcard-like project. We’ve seen DSP stunts on the Pico before. This might also make a nice base for other audio projects.

Ask Hackaday: Do You Need A Tablet?

There’s an old saying that the happiest days of a boat owner’s life are the day they buy the boat, and the day they sell it. For me, the happiest days of an Android tablet owner’s life are the day they buy a new one, and the day they buy a newer one. For some reason, I always buy tablets with great expectations, get them set up, and then promptly lose them in a pile on my desk, not to be seen again. Then a shiny new tablet gets my attention in a year or so, and the cycle repeats.

You might be thinking that I just buy cheap junk tablets. It is true that I have. But I have also bought new Galaxy and Asus tablets with the same result. Admittedly, I have owned several Surface Laptops and Pros, and I do use them. But I can’t remember the last time I have used one without the keyboard. They aren’t really tablets — they are just laptops that can also be heavy, awkward tablets.

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Noctua Releases 3D Models, But Please Don’t Try To Dupe The Products

Noctua wants to make life easier for fans of its…fans. To that end, the company has released a bevy of 3D models across its various product lines, all available to download for free.

If you’re not familiar with the company, Noctua specializes in high-quality cooling systems for the PC market. Its hope is that by freely providing 3D models of its components, it will aid aftermarket companies and DIYers that wish to integrate Noctua fans into their gear. In the company’s own words, these files are made available for “mechanical design, rendering, or animations.” They will let people check things like mountings and fitment without having to have the parts on hand, or to create demo visuals featuring the company’s products.

Don’t get too excited, though, because Noctua has already thought ahead. The company has specifically noted these parts aren’t intended for 3D printing, and critical components like fan blades have modified geometry so as to not compromise the companies IP. You could try and print these models, but they won’t perform like the real thing, and Noctua notes they shouldn’t be used for simulation purposes either. They’re intentionally not accurate to what the company actually sells in that regard.

That isn’t to say Noctua is totally against 3D printing. They have lots of parts available on Printables that they’d love you to try—everything from fan grilles to ducts to anti-vibration pads. Most are useful accessories—the kind of little bits of plastic that make using the products easier—that don’t threaten Noctua’s core product line in the marketplace.

If you’re whipping up a custom PC case and you want to kit it out with Noctua goodies, these models might help you refine your design. It’s funny how it’s such an opposite tactic to that taken by Honda, in terms of embracing the free exchange of 3D models on the open Internet. It’s a move that will surely be appreciated as a great convenience, and we’d love to see more companies follow this fine example.

Thanks to [irox] for the tip!

Wipeout Clone Runs Native On ESP32-S3

Psygnosis’s 1995 game Wipeout is remembered for two things: being one of the greatest games of all time, and taking advantage of the then-new PlayStation’s capacity for 3D graphics. The ESP32-S3 might not be your first choice to replace Sony’s iconic console, but [Michael Biggins] a.k.a. [PhonicUK] is working on doing just that, with his own clone of Wipeout on the Expressif MCU. 

It’s actually not that crazy when you think about it. The PlayStation had a 32-bit RISC processor, and the ESP32-S3 is a 32-bit RISC processor. The PlayStation’s was only good for about 30 Million Instructions Per Second (MIPS) but it had a graphics co-processor to help out with the polygons — the ESP32-S3 has two cores that can help each other, which combine to about 300 MIPS. In terms of RAM, the board in use has 8 MB of PSRAM, while the faster 512 kB on the chip is used, in effect, as video ram.

The demo is very impressive, especially considering he’s fit in three computer players. He’s also got it blasting out 60 frames per second, which is probably double what the original Wipeout ran on the PS1. Part of that is the two cores in action: he’s got them working together on the interlaced video output, one sending while the other finishes the second half of the frame. Each half of the video gets dedicated space in the internal memory. Using a 480×320 pixel display doesn’t hurt for speed, either. Sure, it’s paltry by modern standards, but the original Wipeout got by with even fewer pixels — and it didn’t run on a microcontroller. Granted it’s a beefy micro, but we really love how [Michael] is pushing its limits here.

Right now there’s just the Reddit thread and the demo video below. [Michael] is considering sharing the source code for his underlying 3D engine under an open license. We do hope he shares the code, as there are surely tricks in there some of us here could learn from. If it’s all old hat to you, perhaps you’d rather spend a weekend learning raytracing.

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Compact VGA Output Board For The Pi Pico

Many microcontrollers can spit out simple analog video signals if that’s something you desire. However, it normally requires a bit of supporting hardware and, of course, the right connectors to work with your other video equipment. [Arnov Sharma] took that into account when whipping up this neat VGA board for the Raspberry Pi Pico.

VGA output in this case is achieved via judicious use of the Pi Pico’s PIO subsystem, which is perfect for clocking out the signals for red, green, and blue along with HSYNC and VSYNC as needed. The Pico slots right into [Arnov’s] custom PCB, which makes it a cinch to hook everything up. Supporting hardware is minimal, requiring just a few resistors between the Pico and the DE-15 VGA connector. There’s also a nice LM317 regulator on board to supply power to everything. [Arnov] also whipped up a modified version of the VGA library from [Pancrea85], which allows the Pico to output VGA in a way that’s more accepted by more recent TFT displays as well as older CRTs. The system is demoed with a few basic Hello, World programs, as well as a neat recreation of Conway’s Game of Life.

If you want to get a Pi Pico hooked up to a big screen quickly, whipping up a board like this is a great way to go. If you’re wanting something more advanced, though, you could always explore DVI and HDMI on the same platform. Video after the break.

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Recycling PLA And Other Plastic Waste With Compression Molding

After previously trying out low-tech compression molding with a toaster oven and 3D printed molds, [future things] is back with a video that seeks to explore some of the questions raised after the first video. Questions such as how well this method works with HDPE and PLA thermoplastics, whether the flashing could be cut off by the mold and the right temperatures and times to heat the plastic before a charge is ready for inserting into the mold.

In this video the same PHA-based mold is used, but in a three-piece configuration to allow for a more complex shape. This way game tokens could be made for use by the son of the author, which also shows one straightforward and very practical use of this method.

A big change here is that no more metal chopsticks are used to handle the charge, as this was found to cool down the heated plastic too much. Instead the hot charge is handled with fingers and wooden chopsticks, with the plastic heated until it has about the consistency of thick honey. For LDPE this takes about 5-7 minutes at 130°C. After compressing the charge into the mold, about 30 seconds are all it takes for the plastic to cool down enough.

There was a question about the use of mold release spray, but this didn’t seem to cause any issues, so can probably be used safely. As for other plastic types, HDPE works fine too when you heat it up at a slightly higher temperature and don’t mind it being tougher to handle.

Easiest is probably PLA, which would seem unsurprising. Using some chopped-up PLA printing waste it was easy enough to make a few more game tokens, demonstrating that this method is very viable for converting scrap FDM print waste into such items. As noted in the comments by [edmundchao] this method works great too for PETG, using PETG molds, while using a ratcheting clamp for extra pressure instead of just pressing by hand.

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