Overengineered Freezer Monitor Fills Market Void

A lot of projects we see around here are built not just because they can be built, but because there’s no other option available. Necessity is the mother of invention, as they say. And for [Jeff] who has many thousands of dollars of food stowed in a chest freezer, his need for something to keep track of his freezer’s status was greater than any commercial offering available. Not only are freezers hard on batteries, they’re hard on WiFi signals as well, so [Jeff] built his own temperature monitor to solve both of these issues.

The obvious solution here is to have a temperature probe that can be fished through the freezer in some way, allowing the microcontroller, battery, and wireless module to operate outside of the harsh environment. [Jeff] is using K-type thermocouples here, wired through the back of the freezer. This one also is built into a block of material which allows him to get more diffuse temperature readings than a standard probe would provide. He’s also solving some other problems with commercially available probes here as well, as many of them require an Internet connection or store data in a cloud. To make sure everything stays local, he’s tying this in to a Home Assistant setup which also allows him to easily make temperature calibrations as well as notify him if anything happens to the freezer.

Although the build is very robust (or, as [Jeff] himself argues, overengineered) he does note that since he built it there have been some additional products offered for sale that fit this niche application. But even so, we always appreciate the customized DIY solution that avoids things like proprietary software, subscriptions, or cloud services. We also appreciate freezers themselves; one of our favorites was this restoration of a freezer with a $700,000 price tag.

Easy Panels With InkJet, Adhesives, And Elbow Grease

Nothing caps off a great project like a good, professional-looking front panel. Looking good isn’t easy, but luckily [Accidental Science] has a tutorial for a quick-and-easy front panel technique in the video below.

It starts with regular paper, and an inkjet or laser printer to print your design. The paper then gets coated on both sides: matte varnish on the front, and white spray paint on the back. Then it’s just a matter of cutting the decal from the paper, and it gluing to your panel. ([Accidental Science] suggests two-part epoxy, but cautions you make sure it does not react to the paint.)

He uses aluminum in this example, but there’s no reason you could not choose a different substrate. Once the paper is adhered to the panel, another coat of varnish is applied to protect it. Alternatively, clear epoxy can be used as glue and varnish. The finish produced is very professional, and holds up to drilling and filing the holes in the panel.

We’d probably want to protect the edges by mounting this panel in a frame, but otherwise would be proud to put such a panel on a project that required it. We covered a similar technique before, but it required a laminator.If you’re looking for alternatives, Hackaday community had a lot of ideas on how to make a panel, but if you have a method you’ve documented, feel free to put in the tip line. Continue reading “Easy Panels With InkJet, Adhesives, And Elbow Grease”

flipper zero uv sensor

A UV Meter For The Flipper Zero

We all know UV radiation for its contributions to getting sunburned after a long day outside, but were you aware there are several types different types of UV rays at play? [Michael] has come up with a Flipper Zero add on board and app to measure these three types of radiation, and explained some of the nuances he learned about measuring UV along the way.

At the heart of this project is an AS7331 sensor, it can measure the UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C radiation values that the Flipper Zero reads via I2C. While first using this chip he realized to read these values is more complex than just querying the right register, and by the end of this project he’d written his own AS7331 library to help retrieve these values. There was also a some experimenting with different GUI designs for the app, the Flipper Zero screen is only 128x64px and he had a lot of data to display. One feature we really enjoyed was the addition of the wiring guide to the app, if you install this Flipper Zero app and have just the AS7331 sensor on hand you’ll know how to hook it up. However if you want he also has provided the design files for a PCB that just plugs into the top of the Flipper Zero.

Head over to his site to check out all the details of this Flipper Zero project, and to learn more about the different types of UV radiation. Also be sure to let us know about any of your Flipper Zero projects.

Illustrated Kristina with an IBM Model M keyboard floating between her hands.

Keebin’ With Kristina: The One With The Wafer-Thin Keyboard

The mikecinq, an incredibly slim keyboard.
Image by [dynam1keNL] via reddit
But sir! I can’t believe I missed [dynam1keNL]’s initial flat offering from about a year ago, the mikefive, which came about when he and some friends ordered switches directly from Kailh and Kailh were like, do you want to try these even lower-profile PG1316 laptop switches? It’s called the mikefive because it’s 5 mm thick.

That’s okay, though, because now you’re caught up and I can talk about his latest keyboard, the mikecinq. The inspiration for this one includes the aesthetics of Le Chiffre and the slimness of Le Oeuf. As you’ll see in the gallery, the top is ever-so-slightly slanted downward from the top.

You can see it really well in the second picture — the top row is flush with the case, and the keys gradually get taller toward the thumb clusters. All [dynam1keNL] really had to do was 3D model the new case and screw in the PCB from his daily driver mikefive.

Image by [dynam1keNL] via reddit
[dynam1keNL] ultimately found it nice and comfy, especially for the thumbs, but decided to take it one step further and designed a new switch footprint. Why? The PG1316s are surface-mount with contacts below the switch, so you really need a hotplate or oven to mount them.

So in order to deal with this, he made a dedicated mikecinq PCB with big cutouts with castellated holes beneath each switch. Now, the switch contacts are accessible from underneath and can be soldered with an iron.

You may have noticed that the mikefive production files are not available on GitHub — that’s because it was recently licensed and will be available soon. But if you want production files for the mikecinq, let him know in the comments.

Continue reading “Keebin’ With Kristina: The One With The Wafer-Thin Keyboard”

The Nightmare Of Jailbreaking A ‘Pay-To-Ride’ Gotcha Ebike

Theoretically bicycle rental services are a great thing, as they give anyone the means to travel around comfortably without immediately having to rent a car, hail a taxi or brave whatever the local public transport options may be. That is until said services go out of business and suddenly thousands of increasingly more proprietary and locked-down e-bikes suddenly are at risk of becoming e-waste. So too with a recent acquisition by [Berm Peak] over at YouTube, featuring a ‘Gotcha’ e-bike by Bolt Mobility, which went AWOL back in 2022, leaving behind thousands of these e-bikes.

So how hard could it be to take one of these proprietary e-bikes and turn it into a run-off-the-mill e-bike for daily use? As it turns out, very hard. While getting the (36V) battery released and recharged was easy enough, the challenge came with the rest of the electronics, with a veritable explosion of wiring, the Tongsheng controller module and the ‘Gotcha’ computer module that locks it all down. While one could rip this all out and replace it, that would make the cost-effectiveness of getting one of these go down the drain.

Sadly, reverse-engineering the existing system proved to be too much of a hassle, so a new controller was installed along with a bunch of hacks to make the lights and new controller work. Still, for $75 for the bike, installing new electronics may be worth it, assuming you can find replacement parts and got some spare hours (or weeks) to spend on rebuilding it. The bike in the video costed less than $200 in total with new parts, albeit with the cheapest controller, but maybe jailbreaking the original controller could knock that down.

Continue reading “The Nightmare Of Jailbreaking A ‘Pay-To-Ride’ Gotcha Ebike”

Remembering The ISP That David Bowie Ran For Eight Years

The seeds of the Internet were first sown in the late 1960s, with computers laced together in continent-spanning networks to aid in national defence. However, it was in the late 1990s that the end-user explosion took place, as everyday people flocked online in droves.

Many astute individuals saw the potential at the time, and rushed to establish their own ISPs to capitalize on the burgeoning market. Amongst them was a famous figure of some repute. David Bowie might have been best known for his cast of rock-and-roll characters and number one singles, but he was also an internet entrepreneur who got in on the ground floor—with BowieNet.

Continue reading “Remembering The ISP That David Bowie Ran For Eight Years”

A white control box is shown in the foreground. The box has an LCD display, eight button, and two barbed fittings for flexible tubing.

Using Pitot Tubes For More Than Aircraft

When we hear the words “pitot tube,” we tend to think more of airplanes than of air ducts, but [Franci Kopač]’s guide to pitot tubes for makers shows that they can be a remarkably versatile tool for measuring air speed, even in domestic settings.

A pitot tube is a tube which faces into an air flow, with one hole at the front of the tube, and one on the side. It’s then possible to determine the air speed by measuring the pressure difference between the side opening and the end facing into the wind. At speeds, temperatures, and altitudes that a hacker’s likely to encounter (i.e. not on an airplane), the pressure difference is pretty small, and it’s only since the advent of MEMS pressure sensors that pitot tubes became practical for amateurs.

[Franci]’s design is based on a Sensiron SDP differential pressure sensor, a 3D-printed pitot tube structure, some tubing, and the microcontroller of your choice. It’s important to position the tube well, so that it doesn’t experience airflow disturbances from other structures and faces straight into the air flow. Besides good positioning, the airspeed calculation requires you to know the air temperature and absolute pressure.

[Franci] also describes a more exotic averaging pitot tube, a fairly simple variation which measures air speed in cavities more accurately. He notes that this provides a more inexpensive way of measuring air flow in ducts than air conditioning flow sensors, while being more resilient than propeller-based solutions – he himself used pitot tubes to balance air flow in his home’s ventilation. All of the necessary CAD files and Arduino code are available on his GitHub repository.

If you’re looking for a more conventional duct flow meter, we’ve covered one before. We’ve even seen a teardown of a pitot tube sensor system from a military drone.