Connecting Your Car To Home Assistant

With how much time many of us spend in our cars, it makes perfect sense to consider them a second home. Yet even if that’s not the case, there are still good reasons to connect a car to one’s smart home solution like Home Assistant, such as to keep track of certain parameters for easy monitoring and reminders. This is what [The Stock Pot] channel recently demonstrated using a widget that connects to the OBD-II port inside the car, as not every car comes with its own app yet.

The used dongle is the ESP32-S3-based WiCAN from Australian company MeatPi. This device runs the open source WiCAN firmware. After plugging the dongle into the OBD-II port of the car, the device powers on and can be configured via Wi-Fi like any other smart device these days. After that it’s just another Wi-Fi device on the network.

Since each car’s ECU will represent data differently, you need a car-specific configuration, which can take some tweaking. The idea of integrating with Home Assistant is directly supported by MeatPi, with a handy documentation page. Of course [The Stock Pot] shared their configuration if you want to feel inspired. Among the parameters monitored you get things like fuel level, days to service and coolant temperature.

Although you could make the argument that it mostly saves you from having to waddle over to the car to check the data there, being able to remotely access the OBD-II port of a car does seem rather practical even outside of home automation concepts, such as gathering performance statistics and early failure warnings, especially for aspects like tire pressure and unhappy engine or BEV battery conditions that can quickly go from an inconvenience to very expensive.

Continue reading “Connecting Your Car To Home Assistant”

On The Wisdom Of Replacing A NiMH Module In A Prius Battery Pack

Old versus new Prius NiMH module. (Credit: HubNut, YouTube)
Old versus new Prius NiMH module. (Credit: HubNut, YouTube)

It’s possible to get a pretty good deal on used Toyota Prius cars, but as with all hybrid cars that also means a used battery pack and resulting issues. In the case of the Gen 2 Prius that [HubNut] recently acquired it was clear that its battery was effectively toast, with the engine running constantly and the car often giving up due to detected issues with the pack. After getting to an EV-focused garage for repairs, a spare NiMH module was used to replace a problematic module to bring it back to good health, while raising the question of how sensible such a repair is.

Certainly, compared to the average BEV where a much larger battery is generally integrated well into the frame, a Prius makes things very easy, with the compact battery readily accessible and removable from the trunk. It is also a very modular battery, with some elbow grease and bolt-twisting enough to disassemble it.

Even with that it still a high-voltage battery with all the associated risks, and as raised in the comments there’s a big question about putting a new(er) cell into a pack with more worn-out NiMH cells as generally the cells wear out fairly evenly. While this fix can give the pack some more life, the new cell won’t match the internal resistance and other parameters of the pack, leading to issues like voltage drift. Then there’s the issue that if one cell failed, others probably aren’t far behind, so this hack would soon become a regular ritual.

Much like swapping one bad 18650 Li-ion cell in a bigger battery, it’s probably a more sustainable solution to simply replace the entire battery at once, or at least replace all modules or cells to properly refurbish it. For [HubNut] this fix suffices because he suspects that this pack was already assembled from random modules, it’s an important consideration to make if you don’t enjoy ending up stranded during a trip.

Continue reading “On The Wisdom Of Replacing A NiMH Module In A Prius Battery Pack”

Building A Better Automotive Rotary Controller

If you’ve ever spent time in a modern BMW, you’ve probably fussed about with the goofy iDrive controller. It’s a rotary knobbery slidery thing that just never really feels that good to use. [Garage Tinkering] was inspired to try and build a better version for his own car.

The first order of business was to choose the right knob as the core of the build. [Garage Tinkering] eventually landed on the Crowpanel 1.28″ rotary knob which integrates a push-button encoder, a round screen, and an ESP32-S3 all into one convenient package. He then set about designing a 3D printed housing that would integrate it into the vehicle’s interior, along with a diffuser ring for the knob’s inbuilt LEDs and some additional buttons for added control. The goal is to use the rotary control as the human interface for a broader system being implemented in the vehicle, which will feature a larger infotainment screen and multiple digital gauges. The rotary control will allow switching things like interior and underglow lighting, and display of other vehicle parameters.

The cool thing about building your own gear is that you can make it work exactly the way that suits you. We’ve seen great hacks in this realm before, too, like this rad car data display.

Continue reading “Building A Better Automotive Rotary Controller”

Why You Probably Shouldn’t DIY A Car Airbag

Car airbags are both a very simple concept and a marvel of engineering, replacing the bone-shattering impact of unforgiving plastic and steel with a relatively soft landing in a funky-smelling air cushion. This deceptively simple concept requires that the gas generator activates only when there is a crash and finishes filling the airbag in the milliseconds before the squishy human’s cranium with its soft filling attempts to occupy the same space as said airbag. This makes mad Aussie bloke [Turnah81]’s attempt at DIY-ing a car airbag a most daring proposition.

Rather than messing about with an IMU and microprocessors, he went low-tech with an inertial fuel cut-off switch. These are mechanical switches that hold a steel ball in place with a magnet until a sufficiently large force — like a crash — dislodges the ball and triggers an event. Usually, a switch like this cuts off the fuel pump.

After a bit of fun with a crash-test rig and the airbag of a salvaged steering wheel, a DIY airbag was assembled using a compressed-gas cylinder instead of the fancy gas generator, along with an electrically triggered valve. Here, you can already see why modern airbags use a gas generator, as it is simply far more compact.

For the bag itself, a pillow case was adapted, with the subsequent crash test — as pictured above — going about as well as you can imagine. After this, he tried a few improvements, like using a bin liner and detonating some fuel, but it seems that the gas generator is very hard to beat for producing a large amount of gas in very little time.

Meanwhile, the inertial cut-off switch turned out to be more than sufficient for this purpose, and it was also used to trigger the original airbag. Of course, with how cheap those off-the-shelf airbag units are and are tested to be fit for purpose, you’d never DIY them for actual use in a car unless you were stark raving mad.

Airbags have a checkered history. There are some places you shouldn’t try to save costs.

Continue reading “Why You Probably Shouldn’t DIY A Car Airbag”

TDR For Auto Diagnostics Done On The Cheap

A time domain reflectometer (TDR) is a useful tool to have for finding faults in a wiring harness. However, they don’t come cheap, putting them out of reach for many shadetree mechanics that like to work on their own cars. However, [László SZŐKE] has been exploring a neat way to build a similar device on the cheap.

Typically, time domain reflectometry involves shooting a short electric pulse down a wire, and listening for how long it takes to bounce back. The time depends on the length of the wire, so it can be used to determine the location of a break in conductivity. Unfortunately, these pulses move so fast that very fast, very expensive hardware is needed to make these measurements.

[László’s] technique relies on lower-tech hardware. Instead of sending a very short pulse down a wire, his rig uses a cheap C-Media USB audio device to send a 4 kHz or 8 kHz sine wave instead. Then, by listening to the reflection and measuring the phase shift, it’s possible to detect the distance to the end of the wire (or a break along its length). Some supporting hardware is required for protection’s sake, and to tune the setup for measuring shorter or longer cabling. However, with some smart software processing, [László] states that it’s possible to measure down to 1 cm resolution.

The idea is that this setup could prove particularly useful for automotive troubleshooting. If you measure a wire and the device reports a length of 30 cm, when you know the wire stretches several meters into the engine bay… you know there’s a break around 30 cm from your measurement point.

There’s still plenty of work to be done – for now, [László] is working on a new prototype that should have better performance when testing shorter cables. Still, we love to see this sort of out-of-the-box thinking put towards a common troubleshooting task. If you’re doing fun signal analysis work of your own, don’t hesitate to light up the tipsline.

Repairing A Mercedes EQC 300 BEV Battery

When [OGS Mechanics] got a Mercedes EQC 300 battery-electric car in for repair, it was found to have a bit of a weird issue: after sitting in a garage for a while, its range on battery had suddenly reduced significantly without clear cause. Although the typical response here is to just mark the battery pack as ‘faulty’ and replace the whole unit, [OGS] decided to dig into the pack to see what was going on.

The short version is that this particular battery pack consists of two individual batteries, each with its own BMS, one of which had reported a condition to the master BMS that triggered the ‘replace battery module’ error observed with the scan tool. From this it could also be seen that the first battery was at a 10% state-of-charge (SoC), and the second at 95%, making them incredibly unbalanced. Unfortunately the dealer procedure to rebalance did not work here, with only the second battery wanting to charge even after draining both to the same initial level.

To diagnose the underlying issue in earnest required gently prying open the battery pack like a massive glued-shut smartphone. Going by the theory that it is a software glitch, since the first battery was still at a healthy voltage level, it was decided to manually charge it. With both batteries now fully charged, the BMS for the first battery was then removed to have its memory overwritten with that of a known good BMS module, clearing the ‘replace battery module’ error.

Although in the preview for the next video it’s hinted that there’s also an internal balancing issue in the first battery pack, this could be another symptom of its BMS glitching out. Either way, it would seem that BEVs battery modules are both heavily dependent on software, as well as afflicted by the same throw-away culture that has people just buying a new smartphone when the battery fails.

Continue reading “Repairing A Mercedes EQC 300 BEV Battery”

CAN Bus Analyzer Runs In Your Browser

If you’ve got a modern car, truck, or tractor, it’s probably got a CAN bus or three that is bouncing data all around the vehicle. Listening in on these transmissions can enlighten you to what’s going on with sensors and modules which can aid in troubleshooting. You might find [Chanchal]’s latest work to be helpful in this regard — a CAN bus visualizer that runs right in your browser.

CANviz, as the project is known, is designed to work with any one of a number of cheap USB CAN reader modules. To use it, you simply run the Python “pip” tool to install it, and then you have a live CAN bus frame analyzer running on your local machine. Point your browser to localhost:8080 and you can see the data pouring in from whatever you happen to be hooked up to. The tool supports decoding CAN DBC files to make better sense of the raw data coming off the bus, and you can also record sessions for later analysis and even send CAN frames yourself if you need to. You can also run the tool on a remote single-board PC if so desired and access it over a network connection from another machine.

We’ve explored CAN hacking tools before and tools for visualization as well. Often, the latter is important when trying to debug and investigate dynamic issues. Meanwhile, if you’re working on your own automotive interface hacks, don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline!