Testing A 3D Printed Cycloidal Gearbox Design

Cycloidal gearboxes are a recurring theme in the hobbyist space due to the performance they promise in a compact package. They are capable of taking in a high-speed input and reducing it down to a set ratio with very low backlash, which theoretically makes them perfect for a wide range of projects where size and weight matter. Correspondingly, [Advanced Hobby Lab] has been tinkering with a 3D printed design to fit on NEMA 17 stepper motors.

For [Advanced Hobby Lab] the primary goal was to check that his cycloidal gearbox design was a real improvement over the planetary gearbox alternative. Although the 3D printed cycloidal drive worked well enough, some testing put real numbers to it, including a 92% efficiency. The gearbox also adds some noise over the stepper motor, but less so than the 3D printed planetary gearbox.

Of course, all of this is within the limits of FDM 3D printing and with a few metal parts, so there’s always room for improvement, but in the world of hobbyist 3D printed gearboxes it’s not a bad showing. The print and project files are available for anyone who is also feeling the itch. Of course, you can also opt for the dual-nested cycloidal design that we recently featured, as it promises to be even more compact, have even fewer parts and smoother action.

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Duplicating Parts Using Silicone Molds

[Do As I Do] had a simple task to complete. A couple of small parts needed to be duplicated in some quantity, with good dimensional accuracy and surface finish. There are a number of ways you might go about this, particularly if you have the original tooling or a machine shop on hand. In this case, however, the plan was to duplicate the parts with silicone molds.

The first step, naturally, was to produce the silicone molds. Doing this involved some craft supplies, with glossy paper and hot glue used to create a vessel for casting silicone around the original parts. The silicone itself was mixed carefully and poured into the vessels, and soon enough [Do As I Do] had a pair of negative molds that could be used to produce duplicates of the original. The original parts were removed, and the silicone molds were filled with resin over and over again to make as many duplicates as were needed.

This was a simple enough project with straightforward geometry that suited the process. More challenging parts would require more care in mold prep and more advanced techniques. Depending on material choice for the duplicate parts and other factors like intended final application, extra steps like degassing may be necessary, too. Still, for a quick guide on duplicating a simple plastic part, it’s hard to beat.

We’ve featured other silicone mold jobs before, like these impressive recreated tail light lenses. Video after the break.

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20 FPS On E-Paper Display Without Help

If electronic paper displays have one downside, it’s generally refresh rate. Earlier versions of the tech might only have been able to do single-digit frames per second, while modern, mid-range devices can sometimes manage 10-20 FPS — and that’s not including the frames needed to blank the display. Getting up past that double-digit barrier typically requires higher-end displays, more powerful processors or FPGAs, and more money. On the other hand, [Tony] was recently able to get 20 FPS out of an ESP32-based device without using any extra processing power.

The key to improving e-paper performance is understanding how the display actually works. The “ink” consists of microscopic charged pigment particles that physically move in response to electric fields, making the display much slower than LCD or OLED panels. Rather than fully erasing and redrawing every frame, the software takes advantage of the particles’ existing state by generating optimized driving waveforms that only move the particles needed to produce the next image. On the software side, an MPEG-like encoding is used so only changes between frames are transmitted and converted into these waveforms, reducing unnecessary data transfers and allowing much higher frame rates.

[Tony]’s method is able to drive 960×540 panels, like those found in the Lilygo or M5PaperS3, to 20 FPS, and these platforms are based on nothing more than the capable but limited ESP32 chip. It’s an impressive push, and worth checking out the video in the linked project page. We assume you’d need a little more to drive something like the massive e-paper display found in this home automation setup, though.

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The Seemingly Impossible Oscillator

Back in the days when an integrated circuit meant a simple but expensive device such as a 741 or a 555, most electronics enthusiasts made do with discrete transistor circuits. The common emitter amplifier and its variants are the most familiar, but the humble 3-legged device can do so much more. A particularly obtuse circuit is the subject of examination by [lcamtuf], the reverse avalanche oscillator. A 2N2222, a capacitor, an LED, and a resistor, the transistor is the wrong way round, and there’s nothing on its base. Yet the LED flashes, what on earth is up!

The answer lies in avalanche breakdown, the behavior of a reverse biased diode junction as the voltage across it increases. Eventually the electric field reaches the point at which an avalanche of electrons crosses the depletion layer, and the junction conducts. When connected across an RC circuit, the voltage in the capacitor slowly rises to the point at which avalanche breakdown occurs, and the capacitor abruptly discharges. As the voltage falls the avalanche conduction stops, and the cycle repeats itself. It’s a relaxation oscillator.

We’re treated to an explanation of why a transistor behaves this way and why a simple diode doesn’t, due to a “hump” in its I/V curve, and why the emitter-base junction has a lower breakdown voltage than the collector-base. It’s one of those circuits which looks as though it shouldn’t work, but never fails to oscillate.

Want to know more about transistors? Do we have the series for you!

Three Different Digital Counters To Remind Us How Good We Have It

Integrated electronic modules like counters and displays are convenient and space-saving, which may also make them easy to take for granted. [Nagy Krisztián] demonstrates this by making three very different digital counter designs, each breadboarded with a 7-segment LED display. Push a button, and the displayed number increments by one for each press. It was a personal project that ended up educational in more ways than one.

The progressively-integrated designs shrink in part count and board space, but the complexity doesn’t disappear. It just moves into software.

The first version uses discrete components only, and even though it handles the counting with CD4026B decade counter ICs instead of building counters from scratch with NAND gates, it’s still by far the largest of the three. The second version simplifies driving the display with an AT28C64B EEPROM acting as a sort of hardware lookup table translating binary counts into 7-segment digit display patterns. The third uses an ATtiny24A microcontroller, and unsurprisingly has the smallest footprint.

All of this highlights two things. One is that implementing even a simple counter and 7-segment LED readout is a nontrivial affair when one gets right down to it, even when taking advantage of purpose-built ICs. The second is that the complexity that is on full display in the first version doesn’t simply disappear as the footprint and component count goes down. Rather, it moves into software and other infrastructure, like the need for compilers and chip programmers.

The whole thing is both educational and a reminder of how good the average hardware hacker has it today. There are so many effective electronic assemblies, available to just about anyone at low cost, that it can be very easy to take it all for granted and forget just how much breadboard space and wires were needed for even simple-seeming things.

[Nagy] is certainly no stranger to dealing with a lot of wires, as we’ve seen when he fooled a 286 processor into thinking it was plugged into a functioning vintage motherboard.

Phone Stand Aims To Fight Addiction

Sometimes, it’s hard to stop picking up your phone every few minutes to check on notifications and scroll endlessly through the slop of the day. [PushpendraC2] has been working on a solution to this problem that would ideally discourage such behavior —  a nifty little smartphone stand!

The concept is straightforward enough—the smartphone stand uses a simple tactile button to determine if your smartphone is sitting on the little 3D printed shelf, or not. However, the smarts inside do a bit more than that, too. An ESP32-S3 is charged with monitoring whether the smartphone is sitting in place, and starts counting “focus time” while it’s there. If the phone is picked up, the OLED display on the shelf starts ticking down a 5-second timer to encourage you to put it back. If you don’t, the focus time is reset and you lose your streak.

It’s also possible to tap a touch sensor on the device which sets a reminder timer, prompting you to put your phone back after a set period of time, between 2 to 30 minutes. A buzzer will then start going off to prompt you to put the phone down. If you want to track the devices impact, you merely need to log in to the web server hosted by the ESP32, which shows your current focus session time, along with a heatmap of your daily productivity.

It’s a simple idea, but one that uses a few neat psychological hooks to encourage compliance and behavioral change. We’ve featured similar projects in this vein before, No surprise, as phone addiction is a problem experienced by many.

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Accurate Split-Flap Display Can Be 3D Printed

Split-flap displays are a great, low-power way to display text to a wide audience. Compared to other display technologies like LCDs they only use energy when the characters change, but have fallen out of favor partially because of their greater mechanical complexity and also because LCD and LED technology has become so inexpensive. They still retain a loyal following though, and [Jason] is demonstrating his version which boasts high accuracy and can be 3D printed.

To get good results, one of the keys is getting the motor positioning just right. The motor sits in the center and spins the flaps around, so stopping at exactly the right point to display a certain character is critical. [Jason]’s system uses a 28BYJ stepper motor with a magnetic encoder to ensure that the correct flap is displayed. The flaps themselves are completely 3D printed, using a method which allows for two colors to be printed even if the printer is only designed for a single color. Once printed, the flaps are installed on the wheel which is the outer ring of a planetary gear set with the stepper motor sitting in the middle.

Each character in the display is housed in a printed enclosure, and for [Jason]’s project he only needs five characters, so to control the entire setup he’s using a Raspberry Pi Pico. For more characters he suggests that it is still possible to use a smaller microcontroller like the Pico but a multiplexer may be needed. Of course, displays like this are not limited to characters alone. Take a look at this display which has custom flaps to display the current weather conditions as well.

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