Tool Hacks

2884 Articles

Harbor Freight And LEGO PCB Vise Is Cheap And Effective

February 7, 2024 by 6 Comments

It doesn’t take much chasing things around the bench with a soldering iron to appreciate the value of good work holding. And don’t get us started on those cheap “helping hands” alligator clip thingies; they’re somehow worse than no work holding. Isn’t there a better way?

Maybe, judging by [Paul Bryson]’s idea for a dirt cheap PCB vise. It’s a pretty clever design that’ll have you heading to Harbor Freight, or whatever the moral equivalent is in your location, where you’ll pick up a small ratcheting bar clamp. [Paul] used a 4″ (10 cm) clamp; that which looks fine for a wide range of boards, but we suppose you could go bigger if you like. You could also stop there and just clamp your PCBs in the plastic jaws, but [Paul] adorned the jaws with swiveling arms made from LEGO Technic pieces, of all things. Rubber grommets slipped onto Technic pegs go into the holes on the beam to hold the PCB edges firmly, while the swiveling action adapts to odd-shaped boards.

To our mind, the biggest advantage to this design other than cost is how low it holds the PCB — a decided advantage while working under the microscope. Don’t have any Technics parts close to hand? No worries, 3D printed parts could easily stand in, and maybe even improve the design. [Paul] also shows off a substitute for the Technics beam rendered in PCB material, which would reduce the height of the workpiece over the bench even more.

We’ve seen a lot of PCB vises come and go, using everything from scrap wood to 3D printed compliant mechanisms. But we doubt you’ll find anything more cost-effective than [Paul]’s design.

A Concrete Solution To Balance And Protect Camera Gear

February 1, 2024 by 15 Comments

Knocking over expensive camera equipment is an unfortunate occupational hazard when filming projects in a workshop. [Dane Kouttron] wanted to stop sacrificing lights to the cause, so he came up with a practical use for a weeble: A self-stabilizing monopod.

Inspired by a giant scale weeble built by [Colin Furze], [Dane] first did the math to determine the parameters for the build. It’s all about achieving torque equilibrium with a hemisphere of concrete, and [Dane] walks us through the equations, arriving at the conclusion that a 2 lb. camera on 4 foot pole, one needs a hemisphere with a mass of 28 lbs. and a radius of just under 4 inches. To achieve this weight in the given volume would require extra dense concrete with steel shot added.

After some CAD work and 3D printing the 4-part mold was assembled, with RTV silicone sealant acting as both adhesive between the parts and mold release agent. [Dane] first did a test mold with concrete he had laying around. With success achieved, he pursued the real mix but had issues with an error in the concrete-water ratio and the difficulty of mixing in the steel shot. On the second attempt he managed to extract a functional hemisphere from the mold, with the pole held in position during curing by a 3D printed bracket.

The hemisphere bottom of the hemisphere has a flat spot to keep it stable when bumped lightly. [Dane] added a Manfroto quick-release mount to the end of the pole to allow easy attachment of lights and cameras. It might be a bit hefty to carry around, but it’s takes up less floor space than a tripod and is sure to save [Dane] from expensive bumps-turned-crashes.

Camera cranes, small and large, are another great tool for workshop cinematography. For sheer overkill it would be hard to beat an 8-axis workshop-sized motion control robot.

Flat-Pack Multi-Tool Has Many Dimensions

February 1, 2024 by 4 Comments

Sometimes, you just have to see whether something can be done. Such is the case with [ToolTechGeek]’s flat-pack metal multi-tool build. Can an entire multi-tool be made with only flat pieces of laser-cut metal and fasteners? It would seem so, yes. And quite nicely, too, as you’ll see in the video after the break.

[ToolTechGeek] started by designing all the parts in Inkscape, and then made a few 3D printed versions to check fitment before committing to laser-cut metal. Once they had the pieces cut, everything came together nicely except for a few tabs that connect some of the parts together. These just had to be filed down a bit.

So now, [ToolTechGeek] has a handy set of pliers, flat- and Phillips-head screwdrivers, a knife, and a bottle opener all in one place. Although the pliers don’t have teeth, they still do a fine job of removing nuts and the like. Be sure to check out the final product and see it get put to the test.

No use for such a thing? Maybe you’d prefer an NFC multi-tool.

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Flux, From Scratch

January 29, 2024 by 52 Comments

Soldering flux is (or at least, should be) one of the ubiquitous features of any electronics bench. It serves the purpose of excluding oxygen from a solder joint as it solidifies, and in most cases its base is derived from pine rosin. Most of us just buy flux, but [pileofstuff] is having a go at making his own.

He starts with a block of rosin and a couple of different solvents. Isopropanol we’re happy with, but perhaps using methanol for something to be vaporized within breathing distance isn’t something we’d do. At about 25% rosin to solvent ratio the result is a yellow liquid flux, which he tests against some commercial fluxes. The result is a reasonable liquid flux, something which perhaps shouldn’t be too much of a surprise, and is a handy piece of information to store away should we ever be MacGuyver-like stuck in a pine forest with a need to save the day with electronics.

It would be interesting to try the same technique but with a solvent selected to soften the rosin for a paste flux, and perhaps any chemists among our readership could enlighten us about just what rosin is beside the heavy fractions left after extracting the volatiles from pine resin.

In the past we’ve taken a close look at how solder really works.

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Soldering Holder From Old Lamps

January 27, 2024 by 11 Comments

One of the neat things about 3D printing is that you can create custom parts to fit salvage to use in projects. For example, [Willyrags05] took a lamp — looks like something you might find at a resale shop — harvested the gooseneck tubes from it.

Before 3D printing, it would have required ingenuity to cobble together some way to secure base and add a clamp to the other end. A blob of epoxy wouldn’t look as nice and not everyone can machine nice round adapters. Don’t have the same lamp? No problem. You can easily modify the adapters or create new ones to print for yourself.

Outside of the 3D printer, the project required a way to cut the ends off the tubes. [Willy] used a chop saw, but it seems like a hacksaw or bolt cutters might work. Neatness doesn’t count since the printed adapter will cover all sins.

Once the tubes are ready, some glue, magnets, and alligator clips (why aren’t these crocodile clips?) complete the assembly. [Willy] mentions he needs stronger magnets, but we might have been tempted to make the bases wider with depressions for multiple magnets. This is probably a project you won’t duplicate exactly, but it may well inspire you to upcycle that old lamp in the attic.

Maybe you prefer a vise-like holder. There are plenty of other choices.

Bus Pirate 5 Now Shipping

January 25, 2024 by 34 Comments

It’s happened to all of us at one time or another. There’s some component sitting on the bench, say an I2C sensor, a new display, or maybe a flash chip, and you want to poke around with it. So you get out the breadboard, wire it to a microcontroller, write some code, flash it…you get the idea. Frankly, it’s all kind of a hassle. Which is why [Ian Lesnet] created the Bus Pirate: a USB multi-tool designed to get you up and running with a new piece of hardware as quickly as possible.

Now, after years of development, the Bus Pirate 5 is available for purchase. Completely redesigned to take advantage of the impressive I/O capabilities of the RP2040, the new Bus Pirate also features a 240 x 320 IPS LCD that can show real-time voltage data and pin assignments. But despite the new display, and the bevy of RGB LEDs lurking under the injection molded enclosure, the primary interface for the device remains the VT100 terminal interface — now with the addition of a color status bar running along the bottom.

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A Dim Bulb Tester Is For Testing Other Equipment, Not Bulbs

January 18, 2024 by 26 Comments

If you’re testing old stereo equipment, a dim bulb tester can really come in handy. It’s not for testing bulbs, though, it’s a tester that uses a dim bulb to test other things. [Nicholas Morganti] explains it all in his guide to making your own example of such a tool. Just be wary — you need to know what you’re doing with mains voltages to do this safely!

The dim bulb is a deceptively simple tool that nonetheless often proves useful in diagnostics. It normally just consists of a bulb connected in series with the equipment under test. The bulb is intended to be a similar wattage to the power draw of the equipment itself. Take for example, an amplifier. If the bulb glows brightly when the amp is under no load, it suggests there may be a short circuit somewhere. That’s because the glowing bulb indicates that plenty of current is being drawn under a condition when very little should be flowing. The bulb protects the equipment by essentially acting as a bit of a current limiting device. It’s a soft-start tool for a piece of vulnerable equipment.

Building one is usually as simple as gathering an enclosure, a plug receptacle, a bulb socket, and some other ancillary parts to lace everything together. [Nicholas] explains it all with clear diagrams and tells you how to follow along. It’s easy enough, but you really need to know what you’re doing to use one safely, as mains voltages are involved.

It’s a great tool to have if you’re getting into amplifier repair or similar work on old gear. If you’ve been whipping up your own must-have tools, don’t hesitate to let us know!