In Praise Of Old Meters

We are spoiled with multimeters today. Even the cheapest meter you will get these days is almost surely digital with a tremendous input impedance. But a few decades ago, meters were almost always analog affairs. To make a precise measurement, you needed a mirror under the meter to ensure you read the needle correctly. Moreover, a common meter wouldn’t have that high of an input impedance. If you spent more, you could get a VTVM and, later, one that used FETs to provide high input impedance. [Peter AA2VG] just picked up a vintage Micronta FET volt-ohm meter to join some of the other new and old meters in his shack. You can check it out in the video below.

[Peter] already has a Simpson and a more modern Fluke meter. The Simpson, however, doesn’t have a tube or FET amplifier. The Fluke is nice, but there is something about the needle on an analog meter. If you aren’t old enough to remember, the Micronta brand was a Radio Shack label.

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A Compact SMD Reflow Hotplate Powered By USB-PD

When it comes to home-lab reflow work, there are a lot of ways to get the job done. The easiest thing to do perhaps is to slap a PID controller on an old toaster oven and call it a day. But if your bench space is limited, you might want to put this compact reflow hotplate to work for you.

There are a lot of nice features in [Toby Chui]’s build, not least of which is the heating element. Many DIY reflow hotplates use a PCB heater, where long, thin traces in the board are used as resistive heating elements. This seems like a great idea, but as [Toby] explains in the project video below, even high-temperature FR4 substrate isn’t rated for the kinds of temperatures needed for some reflow profiles. His search for alternatives led him to metal ceramic heaters (MCH), which are commonly found in medical and laboratory applications. The MCH he chose was rated for 20 VDC at 50 watts — perfect for powering with USB-PD.

The heater sits above the main PCB on a Kapton-wrapped MDF frame with a thermistor to close the loop. While it’s not the biggest work surface we’ve seen, it’s a good size for small projects. The microcontroller is a CH552, which we’ve talked about before; aside from that and the IP2721 PD trigger chip needed to get the full 60 watts out of the USB-PD supply, there’s not much else on the main board.

This looks like a nice design, and [Toby] has made all the design files available if you’d like to give it a crack. Of course, you might want to freshen up on USB-PD before diving in, in which case we recommend [Arya]’s USB-PD primer.

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Half Power Bank, Half Spot Welder

There was a time when every gizmo on AliExpress also had a big white LED so it could also work as a flashlight, but maybe the power bank is the new flashlight. [Aaron Christophel] has a battery spot welder that costs a not unreasonable 30 euros and can also be used as a novelty power bank. He subjects it to a test and teardown in the video below the break.

First of all, he conducts a few weld tests, and we have to say it seems capable of some reasonable results if its parameters are correctly adjusted. Then the end comes off the extruded aluminium case, and the guts of the device are slid out for a teardown.

The power comes from a pair of Li-Po pouch cells, while on the board, there’s an STM32 clone providing the timing for a set of MOSFETs that do the heavy lifting. There’s a colour display for tweaking the settings. Alongside all this, there’s also a small chip for that power bank functionality. Charging is via USB-C, though, of course, it’s not really proper USB-C but a USB-C socket that expects 5 volts. This is a disappointing trend in cheap electronics that sullys the promise of USB-C.

It seems this spot welder is capable of doing the job, which is pleasing after our previous disappointing look at battery welders.

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Jana showing the board in action, with a magnetic probe attached to it

Add The Analog Toolkit To Your…Toolkit

Analog acquisition tools are super helpful whenever you want to run an experiment, test out a theory, or improve upon your code, and you won’t realize how much you always needed one up until you’re facing a situation where it’s the only tool for the task. Well, here’s a design you might just want to add to your next PCB order — the STM32G4 Analog Toolkit from [Jana Marie].

The recommended STM32G431 is a wonderful tool for the task in particular. For a start, this board exposes nine 16-bit ADC inputs, with six of them capable of differential mode and three of them having the PGA (Programmable Gain Amplifier) feature. There’s also two 12-bit DAC pins, two timer outputs, three GPIOs, and UART with I2C for the dessert. As a bonus, it can work as a PD trigger, giving you higher-than-5V voltages out of USB-C for any experiments of yours.

The board requires only a few components, most of them easily solderable, with the STM32 in the TQFP32 package. The BOM is optimized, the GPIOs are used up to the max, with two spare GPIOs driving an RGB LED using a witty control scheme. There’s even a place to clip an alligator clip, in case that’s what your probing hardware wants! All in all, this is a carefully crafted design certainly worth having on hand.

Make sure to get a few of these made before you find yourself desperately needing one! That said, there’s always a backup option, the venerable ATtiny85.

Modern Control Of A Logic Analyzer

When you think of a logic analyzer today, you might think of a little USB probe that can measure a few signals and decoding for various serial buses. But actual logic analyzers were high-speed multichannel hardware with sophisticated ways to clock and trigger. [Tom] picked up an HP1670G on the surplus market and was impressed that it could sample 136 channels at 500 MHz. The circa-2000 machine has a front panel, but if you really wanted to use it, you wanted to use an X terminal. [Tom] shows us how that works with modern Linux software.

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Talking Ohmmeter Also Spits Out Color Bands For You

If you’ve got a resistor and you can’t read the color bands (or they’re not present), you can always just grab a multimeter and figure out its value that way. [Giacomo Yong Cuomo] and [Sophia Lin] have built an altogether different kind of ohmmeter, that can actually spit out color values for you, and even read the resistance aloud. It’s all a part of their final project for their ECE 4760 class.

The build is based around a Raspberry Pi Pico. It determines the value of a resistor by placing it in a resistor divider, with the other reference resistor having a value of 10 kΩ. The resistor under test is connected between the reference resistor and ground, while the other leg of the reference resistor is connected to 3.3 V. The node between the two resistors is connected to the Pi Pico’s analog-to-digital converter pin. This allows the Pico to determine the voltage at this point, and thus calculate the test resistor’s value based on the reference resistor’s value and the voltages involved.

A large fake resistor provides user feedback. It’s filled with addressable LEDs, which light up the appropriate color bands depending on the test resistor’s value. It’s capable of displaying both 3-band, 4-band, and 5-band color configurations. While six-band resistors do exist, the extra band is typically used for denoting temperature coefficients which can’t readily be determined by this simple test. It can also play audio files to announce the resistance value over a speaker.

It’s a neat project that surely taught the duo many useful skills for working with microcontrollers. Plus, it’s kinda fun — we love the big glowing resistor. We’ve featured some other fancy resistors before, too!

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DIY Pneumatic Actuator Does Great In Action

Pneumatic actuators can be powerful and fast, making them very useful for all kinds of mechanical jobs. [Michael Rechtin] decided that while he could buy them off-the-shelf, he preferred to see if he could make his own via 3D printing. Despite the challenges, he succeeded!

Part of his success is because he knew when to take advantage of the strengths of 3D printed parts, and where they wouldn’t perform so well. To that end, the main body of the cylinder is actually a piece of PVC pipe. That’s because manufactured PVC pipe is far smoother and more regular than what you could reasonably achieve with a most 3D printers. The end caps, however, were printed and tapped to take standard air fittings. The piston was printed too, fitted with a steel cylinder rod and O-rings for sealing.

The double-acting cylinder performed remarkably well in testing, easily skewering an orange. The initial version did leak a touch, but later revisions performed better. Springs were also fitted for damping hits at either end which improved longevity, with a test rig racking up over 10,000 cycles without failure.

We love a design that is both easy to build at home and capable of great performance. We’ve featured some neat open-source pneumatic builds before, too.

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