USB Hub-A-Dub-Dub: Weird Edge Cases Are My Ruin

The Universal Serial Bus. The one bus to rule them all.  It brought peace and stability to the world of computer peripherals. No more would Apple and PC users have to buy their own special keyboards, mice, and printers. No more would computers sprout different ports for different types of hardware. USB was fast enough and good enough for just about everything you’d ever want to plug in to a computer.

We mostly think of USB devices as being plug-and-play; that you can just hook them up and they’ll work as intended. Fiddle around around with some edge cases, though, and you might quickly learn that’s not the case. That’s just what I found when I started running complicated livestreams from a laptop…

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Film Capacitors Can Go In The Wrong Way Round? Who Knew!

You can work with a part for many decades, and still learn something new about it. At least we can, and we don’t mind admitting it. Take film capacitors — we all know they aren’t a polarized part like an electrolytic capacitor is, but as [TheDannVal] points out, that doesn’t mean both their leads are the same.

This might sound counterintuitive, but if you consider for a moment their construction it makes sense. A film capacitor is made from two strips of foil with a strip of plastic film between then, rolled up tightly into a cylinder. One of the pieces of foil that forms one side of the capacitor ends up on the outside of the cylinder, and thus forms the shield for the other. Thus if that side isn’t connected to the lower impedance side of whichever circuitry it resides in, it can pick up noise, while the inside strip of foil can not. It’s so obvious when demonstrated, but we have to admit to never having considered it before. Some film capacitors have a line marked on them to denote the connection forming the shield, for those that don’t he provides a couple of methods for detecting it.

The full video is below the break, and maybe you too can now pay attention to your capacitors for lower noise audio circuitry.

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A Ribbon Microphone Is Harder Than You Think

There’s a mystique around ribbon microphones due to their being expensive studio-grade items, which has led more than one experimenter down the rabbit hole of making one. [Catherine van West] has posted her experiments in the field, and it makes for an interesting read.

The recipe for a ribbon microphone is very simple indeed — suspend a corrugated ribbon of foil in a magnetic field, and take the voltage across the ribbon. But that simplicity hides some significant issues, as the foil is much thinner than the stuff you might roast your turkey under. Such lightweight foil is extremely fragile, and the signwriters leaf used here proved to be difficult to get right.

Then when the microphone is built there’s still the exceptionally low impedance and small voltage across the ribbon to contend with. The choice here is a transformer rather than a FET preamp, which surprised us.

The result is by all accounts a decent sounding microphone, though with some hum pickup due to difficulty with shielding. Should you give one a try? Maybe not, but that hasn’t stopped others from giving it a go.

Audio On A Shoestring: DIY Your Own Studio-Grade Mic

When it comes to DIY projects, nothing beats the thrill of crafting something that rivals expensive commercial products. In the microphone build video below, [Electronoobs] found himself inspired by DIY Perks earlier efforts. He took on the challenge of building a $20 high-quality microphone—a budget-friendly alternative to models priced at $500. The result: an engaging and educational journey that has it’s moments of triumph, it’s challenges, and of course, opportunities for improvement.

The core of the build lies in the JLI-2555 capsule, identical to those found in premium microphones. The process involves assembling a custom PCB for the amplifier, a selection of high-quality capacitors, and designing lightweight yet shielded wiring to minimize noise. [Electronoobs] also demonstrates the importance of a well-constructed metal mesh enclosure to eliminate interference, borrowing techniques like shaping mesh over a wooden template and insulating wires with ultra-thin enamel copper. While the final build does not quite reach the studio-quality level and looks of the referenced DIY Perks’ build, it is an impressive attempt to watch and learn from.

The project’s key challenge here would be achieving consistent audio quality. The microphone struggled with noise, low volume, and single-channel audio, until [Electronoobs] made smart modifications to the shielded wiring and amplification stages. Despite the hurdles, the build stands as an affordable alternative with significant potential for refinement in future iterations.

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RISC-V Microcontroller Lights Up Synth With LED Level Meter

The LM3914 LED bar graph driver was an amazing chip back in the day. Along with the LM3915, its logarithmic cousin, these chips gave a modern look to projects, allowing dancing LEDs to stand in for a moving coil meter. But time wore on and the chips got harder to find and even harder to fit into modern projects, what with their giant DIP-18 footprint. What’s to be done when a project cries out for bouncing LEDs? Simple — get a RISC-V microcontroller and roll your own LED audio level meter.

In fairness, “simple” isn’t exactly what comes to mind while reading [svofski]’s write-up of this project. It’s part of a larger build, a wavetable synth called “Pétomane Ringard” which just screams out for lots of blinky LEDs. [svofski] managed to squeeze 20 small SMD LEDs onto the board along with a CH32V003 microcontroller. The LEDs are charlieplexed, using five of the RISC-V chip’s six available GPIO lines, leaving one for the ADC input. That caused a bit of trouble with programming, since one of those pins is needed to connect to the programmer. This actually bricked the chip, thankfully only temporarily since there’s a way to glitch the chip back to life, but only after pulling it out of the circuit. [svofski] recommends adding a five-second delay loop to the initialization routine to allow time to recover if the microcontroller gets into an unprogrammable state. Good tip.

As for results, we think the level meter looks fantastic. [svofski] went for automated assembly of the 0402 LEDs, so the strip is straight and evenly spaced. The meter seems to be quite responsive, and the peak hold feature is a nice touch. It’s nice to know there’s a reasonable substitute for the LM391x chips, especially now that all the hard work has been done.
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Cassette Tape Plays MP3s

Cassette tapes were a major way of listening to (and recording) music througout the 1980s and 1990s and were in every hi-fi stereo, boom box, and passenger vehicle of the era. Their decline was largely as a result of improvements in CD technology and the rise of the MP3 player, and as a result we live in a world largely absent of this once-ubiquitous technology. There are still a few places where these devices crop up, and thanks to some modern technology their capabilities as a music playback device can be greatly enhanced.

The build starts, as one might expect, by disassembling the cassette and removing the magnetic tape from the plastic casing. With the interior of the cassette empty it’s capable of holding a small battery, USB-C battery charger, and a Bluetooth module. The head of an old tape deck can be wired to the audio output of the Bluetooth module and then put back in place in the housing in place of the old tape. With the cassette casing reassembled, there’s nothing left to do but pair it to a smartphone or other music-playing device and push play on the nearest tape deck.

As smartphones continue to lose their 3.5 mm headphone jacks, builds like this can keep lots of older stereos relevant and usable again, including for those of us still driving older vehicles that have functioning tape decks. Of course, if you’re driving a classic antique auto with a tape technology even older than the compact cassette, there are still a few Bluetooth-enabled options for you as well.

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Vintage Audio Amp Gets LED Lighting Upgrade

Vintage hi-fi gear can be very attractive, particularly compared to modern stuff. However, when this stuff starts getting into its third or fourth decade after production, things start to wear out. Chief among them—the little incandescent bulbs that light up the dials with such a beautiful glow. [Piffpaffpoltrie] was suffering just this problem on an old Technics amp, and decided to go for a more modern upgrade.

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