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171 Articles

CNC Router And Fiber Laser Bring The Best Of Both Worlds To PCB Prototyping

March 4, 2025 by 22 Comments

Jack of all trades, master of none, as the saying goes, and that’s especially true for PCB prototyping tools. Sure, it’s possible to use a CNC router to mill out a PCB, and ditto for a fiber laser. But neither tool is perfect; the router creates a lot of dust and the fiberglass eats a lot of tools, while a laser is great for burning away copper but takes a long time to burn through all the substrate. So, why not put both tools to work?

Of course, this assumes you’re lucky enough to have both tools available, as [Mikey Sklar] does. He doesn’t call out which specific CNC router he has, but any desktop machine should probably do since all it’s doing is drilling any needed through-holes and hogging out the outline of the board, leaving bridges to keep the blanks connected, of course.

Once the milling operations are done, [Mikey] switches to his xTool F1 20W fiber laser. The blanks are placed on the laser’s bed, the CNC-drilled through holes are used as fiducials to align everything, and the laser gets busy. For the smallish boards [Mikey] used to demonstrate his method, it only took 90 seconds to cut the traces. He also used the laser to cut a solder paste stencil from thin brass shim stock in only a few minutes. The brief video below shows the whole process and the excellent results.

In a world where professionally made PCBs are just a few mouse clicks (and a week’s shipping) away, rolling your own boards seems to make little sense. But for the truly impatient, adding the machines to quickly and easily make your own PCBs just might be worth the cost. One thing’s for sure, though — the more we see what the current generation of desktop fiber lasers can accomplish, the more we feel like skipping a couple of mortgage payments to afford one.

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Fail Of The Week: The SMD Crystal Radio That Wasn’t

December 3, 2024 by 18 Comments

The crystal radio is a time-honored build that sadly doesn’t get much traction anymore. Once a rite of passage for electronics hobbyists, the classic coil-on-an-oatmeal-carton and cat’s whisker design just isn’t that easy to pull off anymore, mainly because the BOM isn’t really something that you can just whistle up from DigiKey or Mouser.

Or is it? To push the crystal radio into the future a bit, [tsbrownie] tried to design a receiver around standard surface-mount inductors, and spoiler alert — it didn’t go so well. His starting point was a design using a hand-wound air-core coil, a germanium diode for a detector, and a variable capacitor that was probably scrapped from an old radio. The coil had three sections, so [tsbrownie] first estimated the inductance of each section and sourced some surface-mount inductors that were as close as possible to their values. This required putting standard value inductors in series and soldering taps into the correct places, but at best the SMD coil was only an approximation of the original air-core coil. Plugging the replacement coil into the crystal radio circuit was unsatisfying, to say the least. Only one AM station was heard, and then only barely. A few tweaks to the SMD coil improved the sensitivity of the receiver a bit, but still only brought in one very local station.

[tsbrownie] chalked up the failure to the lower efficiency of SMD inductors, but we’re not so sure about that. If memory serves, the windings in an SMD inductor are usually wrapped around a core that sits perpendicular to the PCB. If that’s true, then perhaps stacking the inductors rather than connecting them end-to-end would have worked better. We’d try that now if only we had one of those nice old variable caps. Still, hats off to [tsbrownie] for at least giving it a go.

Note: Right after we wrote this, a follow-up video popped up in our feed where [tsbrownie] tried exactly the modification we suggested, and it certainly improves performance, but in a weird way. The video is included below if you want to see the details.

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Repairing A Component On A Flex Connector

October 11, 2024 by 15 Comments

It used to be you could crack open a TV or radio and really work on the components inside. The smallest thing in there was maybe a disc capacitor a little smaller than your pinky’s nail. Nowadays, consumer electronic boards are full of tiny SMD components. Luckily [StezStix Fix?] has a microscope and the other tools you need. Someone sent him an Amazon Echo Show with a bad touchscreen. Can it be fixed?

The video below shows that it can, but there’s a twist. The bad capacitor was mounted on one of those flexible PCB cables that are so hard to work with. It is hard enough not to damage these when you aren’t trying to remove and replace a component from the surface of the cable.

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Soldering, Up Close And Personal

September 14, 2024 by 13 Comments

A word of warning before watching this very cool video on soldering: it may make you greatly desire what appears to be a very, very expensive microscope. You’ve been warned.

Granted, most people don’t really need to get this up close and personal with their soldering, but as [Robert Feranec] points out, a close look at what’s going on when the solder melts and the flux flows can be a real eye-opener. The video starts with what might be the most esoteric soldering situation — a ball-grid array (BGA) chip. It also happens to be one of the hardest techniques to assess visually, both during reflow and afterward to check the quality of your work. While the microscope [Robert] uses, a Keyence VHX-7000 series digital scope, allows the objective to swivel around and over the subject in multiple axes and keep track of where it is while doing it, it falls short of being the X-ray vision you’d need to see much beyond the outermost rows of balls. But, being able to look in at an angle is a huge benefit, one that allows us a glimpse of the reflow process.

More after the break

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Slim Tactile Switches Save Classic TI Calculator With A Bad Keypad

September 10, 2024 by 16 Comments

For vintage calculator fans, nothing strikes more fear than knowing that someday their precious and irreplaceable daily driver will become a museum piece to be looked at and admired — but never touched again. More often than not, the failure mode will be the keypad.

In an effort to recover from the inevitable, at least for 70s vintage TI calculators, [George] has come up with these nice replacement keypad PCBs. The original membrane switches on these calculators have a limited life, but luckily there are ultra-slim SMD tactile switches these days make a dandy substitute. [George] specifies a 0.8 mm thick switch that when mounted on a 1.6 mm thick PCB comes in just a hair over the original keypad’s 2.2 mm thickness. He has layouts for a TI-45, which should also fit a TI-30, and one for the larger keypads on TI-58s and TI-59s.

While these particular calculators might not in your collection, [George]’s goal is to create an open source collection of replacement keypads for all the vintage calculators sitting in desk drawers out there. And not just keypads, but battery packs, too.

An Arduino Nano Clone In A DIP-Sized Footprint

June 22, 2024 by 33 Comments

Nobody doubts the utility of the Arduino Nano and its many clones, and chances are good you’ve got at least one or two of the tiny dev boards within arm’s reach right now. But as small as it is, the board still takes up a fair amount of real estate, especially on solderless breadboards during the prototyping phase of a project. Wouldn’t it be nice to shrink down the Nano just a bit and regain a couple of rows for plugging in components and jumpers?

It looks like [Albert van Dalen] thought so, and he managed to get a Nano’s functionality — and then some — onto a DIP-26 footprint. The aptly named “Nano DIP,” which at 33 mm x 10 mm — about the same size as the ATmega328 on the Arduino Uno — will tickle the miniaturization fans out there. The board is built around an ATtiny3217 and has almost all of the Nano’s features, like a USB port, reset button, built-in LEDs, 5 V regulator, and preloaded bootloader. Its big extra feature is the 350-kilosamples-per-second 8-bit DAC, while sacrificing external crystal pins and a 3.3 V regulator.

To make the board cheap enough to manufacture, [Albert] elected a minimum component size of 0402, which made squeezing all the parts onto the board challenging. The MCU barely fits between the header pin pads, and the Micro USB jack had to be a vertical-mount type. It does the business, though, so if you’re looking to free up a little breadboard space, check it out.

Broken Lens Provides Deep Dive Into Camera Repair

May 13, 2024 by 18 Comments

While most of us are probably willing to pick up the tools and void the warranty on just about anything, often just to see what’s inside, many of us draw the line at camera gear. The tiny screws, the complex mechanisms, and the easily destroyed optical elements are all enough to scare off the average hacker. Not so for [Anthony Kouttron], who tore into a broken eBay Sigma lens and got it working again.

Now, to be fair, modern lenses tend to have a lot more in them that’s amenable to repair than back in the old days. And it seemed from the get-go that [Anthony]’s repair was going to be more electronic than optical or mechanical. The 45-mm lens was in fantastic shape physically, but wouldn’t respond to any controls when mounted to a camera body. Removing the lens bayonet mount exposed the main controller PCB, which is tightly packed with SMD components and connectors for the flex cables that burrow further into the lens to its many sensors and actuators. By probing traces with his multimeter, [Anthony] found a DC-DC converter on the main PCB with an unknown component nearby. This turned out to be an SMD fuse, and as luck would have it, it was open. Replacing the fuse got the lens working again, and while there’s always the nagging suspicion that whatever blew the fuse the first time could happen again, the repair seems to have worked.

Despite the simplicity of the fix, [Anthony] continued the teardown and shared a lot of tips and tricks for lens repairs, including where he would have looked next if the fuse had been good. One tip we loved was the use of double-sided tape to organize parts as they’re removed; this is particularly important with camera gear where screws or different lengths can make for a really bad day on reassembly.

Feeling the need to dive deeper into lens repair? This step-by-step repair should keep you satisfied.