ESP32 Replacement For Lighting Display Controller

As a company, NanoLeaf has been producing modular lights that can be easily snapped together into various geometric shapes for around a decade. Similar to the addressable LED light strips many of us are familiar with that also became popular around a decade ago, these modular lights are supposed to be easy to configure, customize, and program. But their controllers are notoriously finicky according to [Myrik] who found that a simple ESP32 could be used to replace them when they eventually fail.

Part of the reason [Myrik] found this to be straightforward is that the company publishes their firmware and makes it essentially available to anyone. Whether or not this was purposeful is not clear; but in either case it only requires slight modification to run on the ESP32. When plugged into an existing string of panels, the panels themselves report their positions and orientations over a single data bus which the ESP32 has no problem interpreting. The ESP32 can also communicate its status over the network, meaning that it can in turn be controlled by any other lighting software a user might have.

There’s a separate Reddit post about this build as, with other users offering other potential solutions to the controller issue. But we are always happy to see more open solutions to hardware failures which keep interesting things like these out of the e-waste pile, or simply building NanoLeaf-inspired replicas from the ground up in the first place.

Dumpster-dived Window A/C Becomes Ground-Source Heat Pump

Heat pumps are great, because they pump heat around, and we often don’t want heat where it is. Need it somewhere else? Pump it! It’s great. It’s also a bit pricey if you’re buying new, but [Craftsman Chris] over on YouTube realized that the window air conditioning unit he found in a dumpster is, in fact, a heat pump. Normally it’s an air-source heat pump, but with a delightful series of hacks, he gets it automated and hooked into a ground loop in his latest YouTube video.

The heat sink is provided by a bunch of PEX tubing [Chris] buried in his back yard. After experimenting with using the water loop for cooling directly, he realized that pumping heat out of his house into the cold ground would go much better with a heat pump. That’s where the window A/C came in. After cleaning and servicing it, it was time to convert it to dump heat into water rather than outside air. To do that, [Chris] welded up a tank made of scrap metal around the existing heat exchanger. It’s designed for air, sure, but water takes its heat just fine. The nice thing about this is that by keeping the internals of the air conditioner mostly stock, he doesn’t let out any of the tasty, tasty CFCs that may be hiding inside.

Connecting this unit to his thermostat is equally hacky– he takes an old Programmable Logic Controller that looks fit to run a small factory, and hooks it to a single linear actuator to poke the A/C unit’s stock power button. Is it elegant? No. Does it work? Yes. Is it a hack? Indubitably!

We’ve seen window units pressed into whole-house A/C service before, but adding the water loop is a great hack. We saw a window A/C used as a ground-source pump before, too, but that was a Canadian project and so sensibly turned the machine around to provide heating for the maple mansion.

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Determining The Body Temperature Of Tyrannosaurus Rex

One of the most fun challenges in paleontology is determining characteristics of long-dead species like their behavior and body temperature based on nothing but some fossils and traces that are usually millions of years old. Something that has long vexed the paleontological community for example has been the question whether non-avian dinosaurs like the well-known Tyrannosaurus rex was cold- or warm-blooded, and if the latter, what temperature this was. Cue a recent study by [Randon J. Flores] et al. in Science Advances in which they seek to answer this question.

Although modern-day dinosaurs in the form of birds are all warm-blooded – meaning capable of regulating their body temperature – species like crocodiles, who also lived alongside non-avian dinosaurs, are cold-blooded and have to cycle between sun-basking and a cool dip in a nearby river to maintain their body temperature.

By looking at the temperature-dependent formation of carbonate clumped isotopes in three T. rex teeth from the Late Cretaceous Hell Creek Formation, they were able to deduce that these dinosaurs had a body temperature of 36.3 ± 2.5°C, comparable to modern-day endotherms. This was also much higher than that of contemporary crocodilian teeth found in the same area.

When popular dinosaur movies like Jurassic Park showed T. rex and other non-avian dinosaurs as being active, warm-blooded hunters, this was pretty much based on cutting-edge science at the time. Fortunately for its creators, later paleontological findings have largely confirmed that portrayal, although these days non-avian dinosaurs have often gained more feathers and other details – even outside of feathered theropods that became birds – that were absent in these early 90s reconstructions.

Raspberry Pi RAM Restrictions No Big Deal, Frankly

Hacking on Raspberry Pi board internals is one of my favourite topics. I know a bunch of obscure things about these cute little boards. Three years ago, I covered a Raspberry Pi 4 RAM upgrade story. Getting a BGA RAM chip and swapping it in seemed like a no-brainer to me – apart from all the numerous uncertain parts about it, you know. It was a joy to see hackers pull it off, and for it to function as well as it did!

Things changed. You can’t really get RAM chips anymore. You also can’t get RAM sticks. You can’t get even SSDs with RAM chips on them. Even getting Raspberry Pi boards can be hard unless you know where to look. This is where a recent three-minute video by [Jeff Geerling] finds us.

Turns out, Raspberry Pi Foundation pushed binary-blob bootloader changes that limit your ability to upgrade RAM. I’ve known about it since last year through the grapevine, and somehow, as I read about it, this didn’t bother me at all. Not enough to write a Hackaday article about it, even, much less talk about it more widely. Why didn’t it bother me? Today, I sat down and pondered this for a bit.

Here’s my conclusion: I don’t think it’s a big deal at all, even if it seems that many people would disagree. Come in, as you are, and I hope you find my thoughts on the situation entertaining.

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Digital Upgrade Brings Medium Format Camera Into The 21st Century

Large format cameras can produce amazing shots, but are a bit too bulky to be practical. Medium format is a different story, as [Wenting] demonstrates with his Sitina B220M — an open-source digital back for the Mamiya Super 23 camera using a full-frame Kodak CCD.

“Digital back” just means he’s replacing the rear of an existing film camera in order to put a sensor where said film used to live. The sensor is a 22 Megapixel Kodak KAF-22000CE, which measures in at a very respectable 38.8 mm by 50 mm. That’s only a touch smaller than the rolls of 120 the camera was designed for, whose large dimension was 56 mm. How much was exposed at a time was determined by the back you put on the camera, but would never have been below 41.5 mm. Again, the CCD is pretty close.

With Mamiya covering the optics, [Wenting] could focus on the digital end. He’s got a Xilinx Zynq 7010 running the show, making use of both that SoC’s Cortex-A9 cores and its built-in FPGA. There’s some decent info on how that works in the build video embedded below, if you don’t want to dig into the code at the GitLab repository above. The photos look great, and start at 8:25.

[Wenting] has been around the bush with FPGAs before. Not least in his e-ink monitor project, but also with the last iteration of his mirror-less digital camera. This version is perhaps less ambitious, being merely a digital back and not the whole enchilada, but it solves some design issues he had on the “camera” part while he focuses on the “digital” for now.

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Raspberry Pi Locks Down RAM Upgrades

In a recent video [Jeff Geerling] addresses an issue discovered with the Raspberry Pi firmware, specifically how since around 2024 the firmware locks down what RAM size and even module is supported. This isn’t an issue that is widely known, probably because most people just use the board as-is, but it can be an unpleasant surprise for those looking to upgrade or repair their Pi.

Naturally there is a valid reason for wanting to prevent unscrupulous RAM module changes, with a [Geekworm] blog post from earlier this year detailing this exact issue and how each board is marked with a specific code that identifies the model, RAM size, RAM manufacturer and such. Based on the earlier linked forum post and also a 2025-era GitHub ticket on the rpi-eeprom project, the resulting symptoms seem to vary from not seeing the additional RAM to the board not booting at all.

Although you can go back to an older EEPROM firmware image to work around this, it’s still very annoying that this is even a thing. As also noted by [Jeff], the primary frustration here is probably one of ownership. When you can upgrade the RAM on just about any device you can buy, including a modern GPU and even Apple computer, but not on a Raspberry Pi board that loves to flaunt its open source/hardware credentials, then something is very much off.

In the end it’s highly unfortunate that Raspberry Pi has chosen this path that feels a bit too much like the hardware pairing that companies like Apple got rightfully called out on.

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Tiny Scratch-Built Cyberdeck Is In Mint Condition

[Salim Benbouziyane] shows off his TN Deck, a tiny custom cyberdeck built into an Altoids tin. It’s a skillful build that really makes the most of the available space, and includes not only screen and keyboard but also rechargeable power supply and speaker.

The TN Deck is built around the Raspberry Pi Compute Module Zero, which is essentially the same as a Pi Zero W but in a more compact, castellated PCB form factor intended to be integrated into other designs. [Salim]’s custom PCB also handles power, sound, and puts a custom keyboard at the front running QMK, which is pretty much the best choice for custom keyboards and macropads of all kinds.

A D-pad and some gamepad buttons come in handy. The slot in the center is for the speaker.

The keyboard itself is mostly 3D printed. Each button consists of a dome tactile switch on the PCB, covered with a thin and flexible membrane printed in TPU and topped with 3D-printed keycaps. The markings are courtesy of [Salim]’s desktop IR laser marking machine, because a little trial-and-error with lasers can yield good marks on 3D prints. [Salim] says the keys don’t have much travel and the ergonomics aren’t the best, but what it lacks in comfort it makes up for in small size and economical design.

We also really liked [Salim]’s use of a printed drill guide for putting precise holes in the Altoid tin for things like an audio jack, taking the guesswork out of tool positioning.

Some cyberdecks are made to suit specific needs, and others are made for the love of the game. The TN Deck is one of the latter and [Salim]’s previous CM Deck was a bit of both. We can’t wait to see what he makes next.

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