The Shutter Makes This 3D Printed Camera Special

August 22, 2026 by Jenny List No comments

Making a film camera is a project within the reach of almost anyone, from the experimenter with cardboard and sticky tape, to the machinist with an aluminium billet. But 3D printing has opened up the world of cameras to whole new set of experimenters, and we’ve seen some very impressive builds here as a result. For all that, there’s always been a particularly tricky aspect to a home made camera: the shutter. In particular, making one with variable speed has proved almost impossible. Now [Camera Things] has given it a very good shot, with a sliding 3D printed design.

To cock it, both the strips are pulled across, before the blind strip is pushed back, and the shutter operates by sliding back under the influence of a rubber band. The clever part in this case is that the blind strip can be partially pushed back to affect the size of the shutter opening. The effect is then of a variable width strip of light passing over the film, which is equivalent to varying the speed of a conventional shutter.

Due to space constraints he’s only able to make it a half frame shutter, so he’s abandoning this design in favour of a more complicated set of vertical leaves. Sadly he’s not made the files available, but we thing proficient CAD users should be able to make their own version. The video is below the break.

It’s not the first printable shutter we’ve seen, but it remains the first variable one.

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555 Makes A Useful Beat Frequency Oscillator

August 22, 2026 by Zoe Skyforest 2 Comments

If you’ve got a cheap ham rig, it might not be very practical for you to receive certain transmissions out of the box. However, if you were to hack in a convenient little beat frequency oscillator (BFO) to your rig, then you’d be up and running. Here’s a simple way to do just that with a venerable old part everybody knows and loves.

The build in question concerns the use of a 555 timer IC. It’s seasoned with the right smattering of resistors and capacitors to taste, producing a 455 kHz beat frequency oscillator. This can be injected into the intermediate frequency chain of a receiver, making up for the lack of a steady carrier wave when receiving continuous-wave and single side-band suppressed carrier transmissions. Thanks to a potentiometer in the circuit, it’s tunable, too, from 455 kHz, plus or minus twenty percent or so. Thanks to the versatility of the 555, it’s possible to run the chip on a wide voltage range, anywhere from 4.5 volts to 16 volts, which makes it easy to install in just about any old radio set without requiring adding a specialized power supply. There’s also an alternative design that EDN covered in greater detail some time ago.

If you’re eager to dive into a wider range of transmissions than your radio can currently receive, this old-school ham hack could be just what the shack ordered. We feature plenty of good ham hacks around these parts, and don’t forget—we always want to hear about the freshest ones on the tipsline.

You Gotta Want It

August 22, 2026 by Elliot Williams 8 Comments

On Hackaday last week, and on the podcast, we were talking about one of the educational toys of yesteryear that launched a thousand careers, at least if the comment section is to be believed: the Radio Shack 200-in-1 electronics kit. The “toy” itself was basically a bunch of components with spring terminals, but the secret sauce was in in the instruction book, and maybe the marketing.

Tom had one of these when he was a kid, and told a great story about wanting it desperately based on the ads he had seen with kids Morse coding to each other. When he got the kit, and found out that “it was just a bunch of wires” he was fully pissed off. But he worked through the examples, learned some basic electronics, and the rest is history.

What I really love about this story is the siren’s call of a good project. Tom was pulled in, and maybe even fooled, by the advertising, but it probably changed his life. It’s funny how many of our folks can remember the first project that got them hooked as well. With me it was some simple audio effects pedals and then maybe later some simple BEAM robots, and for younger hackers maybe it was a 3D printer or Arduino project.

Digital or analog, the common ground here is that we all thought that some project was cool enough to warrant the sweat of learning enough to do it. Good instructions are helpful of course, and having the parts on hand never hurts. But it’s the promise of making something that you really want that I think underlies all good first projects. (And heck, every subsequent project as well.)

So while Tom, and a bunch of our readers, were looking back with nostalgia at the 200-in-1, I’m thinking about how many more than 200 projects I’ve seen made by our community, and even featured here on Hackaday, that are out there to provide the motivation to get someone started. Keep on hacking!

Building An Analog Geiger Counter

August 22, 2026 by Zoe Skyforest 10 Comments

These days, it’s plenty easy to build a Geiger counter with a microcontroller that has a nice fancy display and a simple digital readout for how many radiations you’re likely sucking up into your delicate fleshy body. But you can still do things the old fashioned way, as [ludens] demonstrates with this analog Geiger counter project.

With a goal of measuring low-level radiation sources and the normal background levels on Earth, [ludens] selected a large Geiger tube for its sensitivity—a Chinese J306β in particular. It’s rated to output 88 counts per minute at the average background level, or 8 counts per second when exposed to 1µSv/h. It’s quite a large device, measuring 200 mm long and 18 mm in diameter, and it sticks out on top of the device like a big fat antenna.

Since the large tube puts out plenty of counts at even low levels, [ludens] decided it would be easy to average the output with a simple analog low-pass circuit. Everything runs off a single AA battery, with a power supply built to step that up to 5 V for the ICs and 400 V for the tube itself. CMOS Schmitt triggers are responsible for running the show, with an old-school analog dial showing the reading.

There are two ranges to use, depending on the magnitude of the radiation source—1 uSv/h, and 10 uSv/h. The high range isn’t particularly high, but as [ludens] notes—”If anything I find pegs that scale, I prefer to run, instead of measuring exactly how much radiation there is! So I don’t need a higher scale than 10µSv/h.”

If you’ve ever wanted to build a Geiger counter that has that classic Cold War feel, this is a great way to go about it. Alternatively, you can always go the more modern route and build something digital and networkable for logging purposes.

Brown wrapped chrome handlebars leaning against a light grey wall. Near the stem, a series of four small pins protrude from the bars to indicate a full battery charge of 100%.

Sleeper E-bike Has Solenoid Display

August 22, 2026 by Navarre Bartz 14 Comments

[GRMNT] decided to bring his grandpa’s beautiful road bike into the future by making a sleeper e-bike conversion.

Going into the project, [GRMNT] didn’t really know what he was working with, but it turned out grandpa had good taste and was rocking a Bianchi. No stovepipe bike boom stuff here, only high quality Tange steel. After cleaning off the years of grime, it was time to rebuild a second-hand Bafang mid-drive electric motor for the electric boost for the ride.

We really like the custom solenoid-powered display that [GRMNT] built into the handlebars for an excellent electromechanical readout of the battery charge. Coupled with the hand-built battery pack inside a leather case and hidden motor actuation button, this build looks slick without screaming e-bike.

We’ve covered some other conversions in the past including this one using an electric skateboard motor or this plug-and-play kit. If you’d rather power things with your bike, you’ll like this hack that can make everything bike powered.

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Hacking A Cat Litter Box

August 21, 2026 by Zoe Skyforest 14 Comments

[Joseph DiGiovanni] is the owner of a Litter Robot 4. It’s a convenient mechanized litter box for cats that can clean itself to reduce unwelcome odors inside the home. He wanted to run automations based on the operation of the litter box, but was not eager to use the manufacturer’s cloud service to do it. Instead, he set about reverse engineering the device for his own ends.

Since the Litter Robot 4 relies on an ESP32 microcontroller for external connectivity, it was entirely possible for [Joseph] to whip up a custom firmware for the device instead. He started with ESPHome as a base, which is a popular firmware used for building smarthome devices based on Espressif hardware. The architecture of the Litter Robot 4 helped in this regard. It uses a PIC microcontroller to handle the low level hardware control, while the ESP32 is responsible for connecting to the cloud over WiFi. This allowed [Joseph] to mess with the connectivity features and get the device hooked up to Home Assistant without compromising the basic mechancial functionality of the device or any of the safety features.

All [Joseph] had to do was figure out how the original hardware’s ESP32 talked to the PIC and emulate that in his own firmware, which was achieved with some snooping and data capture and processing with an LLM. This was used as a basis to whip up an ESPHome firmware that could integrate the hardware neatly with Home Assistant.

Files are on Codeberg for those eager to tinker. It’s not the first time we’ve looked at cat litter management, and it won’t be the last. Video after the break.

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How The Grid’s Harmonic Filters Keep The Power Clean

August 21, 2026 by Maya Posch 8 Comments

A fun way to think about a national electrical grid is as a massively upscaled electrical circuit, one in which you have multiple power supplies injecting AC power, with various bits and bobs involving resistors, inductors and capacitors in between working to synchronize and clean-up this power before it gets to the end users. Recently [Jordan Taylor], also known as [The Electric Brit] took a look at the grid’s harmonic filters that do a lot of this sinewave scrubbing after the HVDC to AC conversion.

Using a UK-based line-commutated converter (LCC) HVDC converter station as a physical example [Jordan] takes us through the elements of this harmonic filter, what it is, what it does and why it’s a necessity. The design considerations with components at this immense scale are also covered, along with the types of filters possible.

The Cliff’s Notes version is that following the conversion step from said HVDC there are harmonics introduced in the AC, not unlike in a much lower-voltage converter. This results in a noisy sinewave that can potentially cause harm to AC-powered devices, not to mention cause heating and other losses along the way. The answer is naturally to add an LC-filter, just on a slightly larger scale than for consumer electronics.

Also noted by [Jordan] is the nice synergy of these harmonic filters when it comes to absorbing and generating reactive power on the AC grid, due to their massive capacitors and inductors. This helps to dampen oscillations on the grid and thus further contributing to its stability.

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