Home Automation: Simple Vs Easy

We’ve been talking a bunch of home automation on the Podcast lately, and this week, in the Mailbag segment, a reader asked us about our setups. Neither Kristina nor I are poster children for the home automation movement: she has absolutely no smart anything because she didn’t want her data up in “the cloud”, and I have an entirely local system that’s really nothing more than a bunch of ad-hoc scripts that talk to an MQTT broker, everything fully DIY but held together with metaphorical duct tape. Neither of us are doing it right, but we’re doing it wrong in interestingly different ways.

Kristina thought, probably because of the range of commercial devices out there that tie you into using their remote data storage services, that giving up control of her data was necessary to use it. And it might be, if you insist that setting up the system be as easy as possible. But the tradeoff for this ease is a drastic reduction in simplicity. You shouldn’t need a remote server in some foreign country to turn your lights on and off. Adding “the cloud” into the mix brings a lot of complexity, mostly in the form of servers that have to be paid for somehow by whatever company is providing the service. It needs to be secure. You might even have to create accounts, remember passwords, and manage that whole deal. Sure, that’s easy enough, but it’s a lot of moving parts, and you can’t blame her for rejecting that complexity.

My system is hosted on a now-ancient OrangePi in the corner, and the network in question is an old WiFi router that it sits on. Nothing needs to leave my four walls, but actually some of it does – I bridge some of the MQTT topics out to an external server for my own amusement. There is no protocol, and no real “system” frankly. Each device in the network has its own topic, and I’m responsible for knowing what it means. The thermometer in the basement has an ESP8266 that transmits on the home/basement/temperature topic, and it puts out its temperature in degrees Celsius. It was the simplest system I could think of, but I have to write whatever software I want to log, display, or act on the data. Of course, that’s simple if you can write some four-liner scripts on the OrangePi broker, but it’s not easy enough that my wife wants to hack on it.

So if the full-buy-in commercial systems are easy but overly complex, and my DIY network is transparently simple but requires a level of hands-on that isn’t easy for “normies”, is there a middle ground? I know half of you are already screaming Home Assistant or Domoticz, and you’re also thinking of which client device libraries you like the most for all your DIY applications: ESPHome vs Tasmota, for instance. And you’re all right!

We are living the in the golden age of the home automation projects. Open-source software and firmware, combined with an abundance of online tutorials and worked examples, have made huge strides toward bridging the gap between simplicity and ease of use. You can set up a hub for everything on a single-board computer, upload the software of your choice, and you don’t need the complexity or loss-of-support liability of a cloud provider. At the same time, setup is easy enough if you’re willing to roll up your sleeves a little bit, and when it’s not, chances are good that someone else has already figured it out for you. These days, interoperability with popular commercial products is shockingly easy to boot.

I need to spend some time and rationalize my system: given the state of the art, it’s simply too simple, and taking a step into an open-source solution would make it easier to use for the rest of the family, without overly complexifying things, adding sketchy dependencies, or losing our data sovereignty. I haven’t finished exploring my options yet, but from what I can see, the community has converged on some goldilocks setups: not too simple or too easy, but rather just right. Thanks, y’all!

The Repair Nightmare That Are Smart Rings

In the quest to make every wearable device ‘smart’, a lot of electronics along have to be crammed in very small spaces, along with ways to make them resistant to environments that our bodies do not mind, like getting hit by a rainstorm or simply washing our hands. These two factors combined make especially devices like smart rings an interesting case study for repairability, with [iFixit] recently taking apart a modern Oura smart ring to assess its e-waste factor after the built-in battery dies.

The tiny 10.5 mAh Lipo cell in the Oura Ring 5. (Credit: iFixit)
The tiny 10.5 mAh Lipo cell in the Oura Ring 5. (Credit: iFixit)

The subject of the teardown video is the Oura Ring 5, a $400 smart ring that’s designed to track your vitals much like a wrist-worn fitness tracker — just in a much smaller package. This metal-and-epoxy sandwich can definitely survive a good rain shower and washing of hands, but to get to the internals rather forceful methods were needed, unlike previous Oura and Samsung smart rings where some applied heat was enough.

In the Ring 5’s case even more heat was needed to make the inner ring start to slide out, but by that point the Li-ion battery inside had already popped from the heat. The inner ring then got stuck and more violence was required to continue the disassembly and get to the super-tiny, 10.5 mAh battery. Of course, at this point the smart ring really won’t be getting back together, never mind still work or be waterproof, which is a central issue with these smart rings.

With the EU’s February 2027 deadline for user-replaceable batteries looming on the horizon, it’ll be interesting to see whether devices like this can squeeze into an exception category, or whether manufacturers will have to massively redesign or stop selling these devices to this rather large market. So far this particular regulation has already forced Nintendo to make a special Switch 2 console for the EU.

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A General Purpose Pi Zero Device For IoT

By now we’re all used to single board computers such as the Raspberry Pi Zero, but it’s likely we’ve all been frustrated at times by the number of support components required to use one. This becomes ever more annoying out in the field away from a handy HDMI, USB desktop, and power supply.

The Edgeberry Zero is an attempt to tackle this by mating a Raspberry Pi Zero with a PCB holding a robust power supply and interface connector, all together in a case. better still it comes with Edgeberry Hub, a software management interface.

It appears to be a commercially available product, but it’s Open Source Hardware Association (OSHWA) certified and everything is available in a GitHub repository. Looking at it from a Hackaday perspective it’s hardly the first power supply support board we’ve seen for a Pi, but its approach of making its own expansion module format is an interesting choice. To us they are reminiscent of Game Boy cartridges in the way they slide into a slot in the case.

We like the general idea behind the Edgeberry Zero, but whether it offers enough differentiation from packaging up a Zero with cables and duct tape is up to you.

Making Old Computers Count To A Million

How fast can you count to a million? It would probably take you a while. A computer could certainly do it faster. Indeed, the The National Museum of Computing figured it could actually prove to be a simple but useful benchmark for comparing computers over many eras and architectures. Thus was born the Million Measure.

The intention was to develop a benchmark that could run on just about anything considered a “computer.” As explained in a recent talk, the Million Measure can be run quite simply on anything from an ancient World War II computer like Colossus, to a modern Raspberry Pi. There are no complicated algorithms that need optimization, nor architecture-specific code required to do the job. The museum also found it to be a useful way to figure out which computers in their collection were actually working at any given time. Early computers from the mid-20th century reported benchmark times in minutes, while a 1995 BeBox is the fastest machine tested so far at 0.004 seconds.

It’s not a particularly useful measure for modern machines, which are so fast as to make the test difficult to parse in an intuitive way. But if you’re working with today’s hardware, there are other techniques you can use. Video after the break.

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How LLMs Can Be Assisted To Do Arithmetic Correctly

One of the most hilarious things you can do with an LLM-based chatbot is to ask it to do calculations. If it’s a well-written chatbot frontend, it can detect requests for arithmetic – like summing 1 and 1 – and pass it on to a dedicated calculator application, even if still cannot correctly count the ‘r’s in ‘strawberry’. This is where [Alvaro Videla] asks the question whether it is at all possible to perform arithmetic with a language model.

Since an LLM at its core is nothing but a vector space of probabilities that a matrix-based inference process uses to create a probabilistic output of tokens you’d not expect a lot of deterministic behavior. How can you do arithmetic without grounding it in some kind of deterministic process?

This is where [Alvaro]’s Rune project comes into play, which is ‘a mechanism-aware JIT compilation project for language-model arithmetic’. Although it is statistically impossible for an LLM to ever correctly perform any random series of arithmetic calculations, you can monitor the internal state of the model and interfere once the parameters of an arithmetic calculation have been identified. By putting the correct result back into the inference process and letting it continue you did not need to rely on external tools.

Ultimately this attempt sort-of worked, but was deemed a failure. It would seem that a language model is the wrong tool after all for replacing the humble calculator.

Epson HX-20 Gets A Drive Upgrade

The Epson HX-20 is sometimes referred to as an early laptop computer. It’s a little odd in its form factor, and in its storage, relying on a microcassette drive to store data. It can be problematic to keep these tapes and drives going after so many decades, so [Andrew Menadue] has been tinkering with a more modern solution.

The replacement drive uses a Raspberry Pi Pico to emulate the original tape drive. The Pico uses a microSD card to store data instead of the magnetic media of old. The device has a small screen for showing status information and four buttons for navigation, allowing the faux drive to be controlled as to what “tape” it’s pretending to be. It’s also possible to use the device to emulate ROM cartridges that could be used with the HX-20 in place of its original tape deck storage solution.

We’ve seen some other old hardware get similar drive upgrades before, too. No surprise, because mechanical drives and media simply don’t last forever. Sometimes you need to build a replacement that’s viable today. Video after the break.

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PCBs Straight From The Magazine

It’s never been easier to get a printed circuit board made. In fact, almost every electronics video out on the internet will incessantly remind you of this fact now. But making a custom PCB wasn’t always as straightforward as sending a KiCad file to a board house. Many DIY methods involve harsh chemicals and tedious processes, but did have the potential benefit of taking much less time than waiting on boards to arrive in the mail. [Bettina Neumryr] is demonstrating one of these older methods, called the toner transfer method, using a circuit that was printed directly in an old magazine.

The first part of the toner transfer method is to create an image that can be printed. Since this circuit came from a magazine, it is first scanned in to a computer and imported into GIMP, where it can be scaled to match the size of the components and then sharpened to make a crisp print. With the image ready, it’s time to print the image onto some toner transfer paper, ensuring that the printer in question is a laser printer which actually uses toner. From there, a sheet of blank copper PCB is prepared and then the toner is transferred by heating, in this case using a laminator. After that its etched, removing all of the copper not protected by the toner, and then the toner itself can be removed which leaves behind the copper traces.

For those of you who were around when toner transfer was in vogue, this video might not have much value. But for anyone who can’t use a board manufacturer for whatever reason or is looking for alternatives, a modern video showing the method could be much more useful and have better context for beginners than videos made a decade or more ago now. Some of those older methods include similar processes using inkjet printers instead, but there are more modern DIY methods as well using lasers or CNC machines too.

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