A man’s hands are shown holding a video game controller. A cable runs to a box with an orange front surface, which has a series of divots arranged in a points on a grid. These divots form a vertical line, with one other divot to the right of and below the line.

Playing Snake With A Pneumatic Display

[soiboi soft]’s vacuum-driven dot matrix display is part suction gripper, part touchscreen, and altogether impressive. Its display capabilities are entirely shadow-based, with each pixel being made of a cavity behind a flexible silicone sheet; when the display’s microfluidic logic circuitry activates a pixel, a vacuum pump pulls the sheet inwards, creating a visible hollow.

As in previous iterations, the display’s control circuitry is built around a pneumatic “transistor”, which allows an air channel to be opened or closed by applying vacuum to a control channel. As a first test, [soiboi soft] built a 16-pixel dot matrix display. Eight control channels – four row and four column channels – are multiplexed to individually control each pixel. The transistors act like one-way valves, so the pixels hold their state, even when pressed in by hand; simply add some circuitry to read a pixel’s state, and it would be a fully-functioning touchscreen. The supporting pneumatics also got an upgrade; the solenoid valves now cleanly mount to the back of the board, and the vacuum pump connects via a Luer lock adapter.

The 3D printing used to make certain parts and silicone molds caused issues when scaling up to a 64-pixel display, however. The parts were warping, destroying the seal necessary to keep pixels “on”. To straighten them out, [soiboi soft] pressed the printed part against a flat glass build plate in a vacuum bag and annealed it at 60 Celsius for several hours. This worked quite well, particularly when slightly raised rings were printed around the area to be sealed. Once all these bugs were worked out, the display was clear and decently responsive. [soiboi soft] was able to display letters, numerals, and animations, and even able to play Pong and Snake. It won’t be setting any refresh rate records, but it was nevertheless fully usable.

For another approach to playing Snake with microfluidics, check out this project. If printing molds and casting silicone seems too fiddly, there are always other ways to make microfluidic circuits.

This Library Needs To Be At Least… Three Times Bigger

Many of us have noted a tremendous price increase in many computer components for some mysterious reason. Whatever this cause is will be debated among the various modern philosophers and Diogeneses, but regardless of cause we all still have to live in this world and make do. That turns us towards getting maximum value from the things we already have rather than trying to go out and buy more computer components right now, like [svofski] using his vast swath of existing microSD cards to build an SD card library.

The library is based around a tiny robotic arm that can physically grip the cards and move them in and out of a reader. The first iteration of the arm involved rotating the two pincers, but this turned out to be overly complicated and [svofski] eventually settled on a design resembling a rack and pinion that slides the two pincers together instead. With the gripper sorted out, it’s placed in system called T-bot arrangement, similar to coreXY kinematics, that lets it pick and place among 12 microSD card slots.

Many of the parts in this build were directly from or inspired by 3D printers, making it relatively simple with so many parts available. [svofski] didn’t build it for a specific use case, though; mostly it was constructed out of fascination for robotic tape changers which perform a similar function. But for anyone who actually needs to duplicate a large number of SD cards, or other types of removable media, this could prove to be a fairly handy robot.

Reviving An SD Card With Shorted Capacitors

A nice thing about SD cards is that even in their non-micro format they are conveniently small. This is however a bit of a problem when an SD card stops working, as they are not exactly designed to be easy to service, or to recover data from. There is however a very good chance that the Flash memory and controller are still fine, and it’s actually one of the passives on the tiny PCB that failed, as with the 32 GB SD card that [Yevgeniy Kapishon] recently diagnosed and recovered data from for a customer.

Tiny capacitors in an SD card package. (Credit: Aeson Labs)
Tiny capacitors in an SD card package. (Credit: Aeson Labs)

A big hint during initial diagnostics was a clear short between the supply rail and ground, but as became clear when taking the SD card apart, this one was built as a monolithic package, without exposed components on a PCB as in older SD cards. Correspondingly an X-ray machine and thermal camera were used to figure out what was inside the package, and where the short was located.

By combining the hot spot image with the X-ray it was determined that the problem was with some passives near the edge of the package. Some careful material removal later two miniscule capacitors were found to be the culprit and gently removed. With this the short on the power rail vanished, and the SD card started working again.

Having a shorted MLCC or similar passive component is a very common failure mode in general which can cripple even the most expensive device. Even if SD cards still aren’t really repairable, it’s at least reassuring to know that in many cases the data is fairly easy to recover once you have identified and removed the offending part.

DOOM Played On Series Of 555 Timers

It’s technically true that any piece of software can be reproduced in hardware, although modern software’s size and complexity generally makes this a non-starter. But if we go far enough back in time, older software becomes easier and easier to implement in hardware. The original DOOM from 1993 might one day be recreated in full this way, but that day is not today. Instead, [Nick] has recreated the original music from that game, playing the opening track in nothing but 555 timers.

The circuit starts with a 555 timer that acts as a system clock with a rate of just over 7 Hz. These pulses feed a binary counter which in turn feeds a decoder, giving the circuit 15 positions. Each output of the decoder feeds to a diode matrix which stores information about what pitch the circuit should play. The circuit only needs to play six pitches so the diodes effectively connect each moment in time to one of these six notes. From there the circuit feeds into a set of switches which select different resistor networks of another 555 which is actually responsible for producing sound. The resistor networks have different values to adjust the timing of the 555 to produce different pitches.

Of course this entire exercise is largely academic as almost any microcontroller would be able to be programmed to play this chiptune quite easily, but it’s not a bad idea to get down into the weeds of digital logic from time to time in order to refine one’s skills and knowledge about what’s really going on in the inner workings of circuits. Or, go even deeper than that and build the logic gates themselves from first principles.

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Casting Engine Parts From 3D Prints

After building a couple of internal combustion engines by milling billet aluminium stock and cringing at the absolute waste of material this created, [Camden Bowen] figured he’d give casting metal parts a shot. Of course, the key here is to create the molds for said casting, which is where you got a few options available.

Since DIY is really his thing, he also made his own kiln using cement and perlite, plus a propane burner. For the aluminium material to melt, he bought a stack of aluminium alloy wheels, as these are made of an alloy that’s actually suitable for casting. These were turned into ingots as a first step towards casting the engine parts, which among other things helps to purify the metal.

For the actual casting method he picked lost PLA, meaning the intended shape is 3D printed in PLA, then put into plaster before it’s melted out of the newly minted mold in an oven and subsequently burned out in the kiln. For the plaster [Camden] used regular Plaster of Paris, mixed with sand to give it suitable heat-resistant properties.

After some trial and error, as well as a lot of trouble burning out all the PLA, he got a usable mold and managed to eventually cast an engine cylinder with only a few imperfections. Considering just how convoluted it would have been to mill that part out of billet aluminium, it’s easy to see why commercial manufacturers are casting such parts as well.

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Hackaday Podcast Episode 384: OCR MOD Records, Magical PCBs, And The Gravity Of Space Stations

What did Hackaday editors Elliot Williams and Al Williams read in Hackaday last week? Probably everything, but you can tune in and hear about their favorites on this week’s podcast. They heard from lots of listeners this week, and also saw DIY projects running from a 3D-printed Stirling engine, to clogs, to LEDs.

There are some over-the-top hacks like a refit for a decades-old watch to do tap-to-pay and a — for lack of a better word — a record player that optically reads MOD files. Want to emulate an iPod? Talk to Eliza? Print a hand-operated rail car? Hackaday is the place to read about it all.

The can’t miss articles included a talk from Hackaday Europe about making magical PCBs and a not-so-brief history of space stations starting in the 1800s.

Check out the links if you want to follow along, and as always, tell us what you think about this episode in the comments!

Direct download in MP3 suitable for hand-decoding.

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Building A Headless Game Boy Emulator

[Artificial-Age] has built a rather unique way to play old Game Boy games. It’s an emulator, but it doesn’t work in quite the way you might think!

Since the Game Boy is a relatively simple 8-bit machine that runs at a leisurely 4 MHz or so, it is well within the capabilities of an ESP32 microcontroller to emulate. [Artificial-Age] got an ESP32-S3 and programmed it to do just that. However, there’s a twist—there is no screen hooked up to the microcontroller, nor any buttons. Instead, the board is accessed over a WiFi access point that it hosts itself.

One then opens a web browser, which streams the emulated video and audio from the console, while accepting button inputs from your keyboard or touchscreen, depending on the platform you’re viewing the web interface on. ROMs are stored on the ESP32’s flash storage, and can be uploaded via the web interface.

It’s an interesting setup, and one that perhaps doesn’t make obvious sense at first. After all, any modern smartphone can easily emulate a Game Boy, too. However, this setup makes it easy to share the emulator with other people, who can simply check out the WiFi AP and web interface without having to download or or install anything on their own device. We’ve featured some other fun emulation projects lately, too.

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