A laptop is shown set up on a desk next to a spectrum analyser, an SDR, and two antennas. The antennas are aimed toward assorted electronics, including headphones and a phone handset.

Reviving TEMPEST Attacks With An Injected Signal

TEMPEST attacks are often the most effective way to break air-gapped security: rather than directly accessing a computer, the attacker records the system’s unintended radio emissions and uses them to reconstruct its internal operations. This kind of attack was much more effective in the days of noisy, high-voltage CRT displays, and has gradually become less effective as electronics migrate to quieter, less powerful components. A group of researchers, however, has found that even modern electronics can become effective TEMPEST transmitters when irradiated with an RF signal.

The RF a device emits depends on the unintentional antennas in its internal structure. These are difficult to eliminate, and it’s usually not worth the effort; they’re usually small enough that they only effectively radiate at much higher frequencies than the electronics carry. The researchers’ technique, called InjectEave, radiated these electronics with a radio frequency tuned to their internal antennas, injecting that frequency into the circuit. Nonlinear electronic components, such as amplifiers, then mix the injected frequency with the internal signal, creating RF sidebands. This mixed signal then radiates out of the device and can be picked up and demodulated to recover the device’s internal signal.

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Ski Lift Removes Mice From Chicken Coop

Getting rid of rodents like squirrels, mice, or groundhogs is a lot like digging a hole on the beach. No matter how much you remove, it’ll always fill back in. So, while [Super Valid Designs] could keep trapping and “removing” the mice in his chicken coop, more will always work their way back in. His theory is that removing them live from the chicken coop and placing them some distance away will be more effective, and with this semi-automated ski lift that traps them and carts them off, it might end up being less work too.

The build comes to us in roughly two parts. The first is the gondolas, which not only cart the mice down the hill to freedom but also double as the mousetrap themselves. They are placed in the chicken coop, and a trap door on the ceiling with bait causes the mice to fall inside. 3D printed with acrylic windows, they are a luxurious way for a mouse to travel. At the bottom, another trap door opens onto a pile of brush, releasing the mice. The second part is the lift, built hastily out of wood and other parts lying around. After much hiking up and down the hill, [Super Valid Designs] eventually got it working properly and reliably toting the mice and automatically releasing them at the bottom of the hill.

It’s a bit too early to tell if this method is more effective than more traditional methods of dealing with mice. But it was at least a fun way to deal with the problem while he also works on more effective methods of preventing the mice from getting into his buildings in the first place. There are some simpler catch-and-release mousetraps out there as well if a ski lift is out of the question for whatever reason.

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World War I Coded Message Appears Cracked, Finally

When you think of wartime cryptography, you probably think of World War II and Enigma, although there were other famous codes used during that war. But in fact, there have been codes used through wars and in peacetime for much longer. Even the Romans used codes. Of course, World War I, or The Great War, as it would have been known, had its share of codes and, as you might expect, most of these have been broken long ago. Most of them. But apparently an AI model, GPT-6 Astra, recently cracked one that was previously undeciphered.

If you aren’t up on century-old cryptography, the ADFGVX cipher appeared in 1918. It began as ADFGX, but after a few months grew an extra letter — and a larger grid. The letters were chosen because their Morse-code patterns were relatively easy to distinguish: A, D, F, G, V, and X.

The original ADFGX version used a 5×5 grid containing the alphabet, usually merging I and J. The later ADFGVX version expanded this to 6×6, making room for all the letters and the digits as well.

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Reverse Engineering A Sony Car Stereo LCD

For his own reasons, [Jose Luis Monteiro] (aka [emsyscode]) decided he needed to drive the LCD on a Sony CDX-A250 car stereo’s front panel using an Arduino. There’s probably a sweet project in the works, or perhaps he just wanted to see if it could be done. Either way, more power to [Jose], because he totally pulled it off and put the results up on GitHub for all to enjoy. There’s also a project video showing how he did the reverse-engineering, which you can see below.

The driver for this diminutive LCD is a chip obviously labeled LC75826W, and that’s what the Arduino ends up talking to. Thankfully, there was a datasheet available for that part, which gave [Jose] a great starting point for figuring out how to use it. While [Jose] is working with the LC75826W driver, he’s quite explicit in his GitHub repo that this repository is not a driver library for that chip. The code only targets the specific LCD on the CDX-A250 head unit. Still, if you’ve got a different oddball LCD that uses this driver, [Jose]’s code is a great place to start, and since it’s under an MIT license, you can fork to your heart’s content.

Kudos to Sony for not obfuscating the part or using a chip-on-board black blob — you can reverse-engineer an LCD driven by one of those, but it’s a lot more work. If you’re wondering how and why those black blobs come to be, we’ve got you covered.

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A Bandpass Filter Pulls In The Signals

It’s an unfortunate side effect of proximity to a large transmitter that the received signal can overload a receiver’s front end even when tuned to other frequencies. [Rfrht]’s had this problem with nearby FM broadcast transmissions overloading the 2 metre and 70 centimetre amateur bands. The solution?  Design and build a bandpass filter. This allows the signals you want to pass through while rejecting or attenuating out-of-band frequencies. The resulting PCB is very nice indeed.

On board, aside from the filters themselves, are a low-noise preamplifier and relays to switch between receive and transmit. Everything is controlled by logic-level signals. All components are surface-mount, and the PCB layout clearly takes special care with RF routing.

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The guts of the server, with lots of sticks of DDR3, and not a single GPU in sight.

No GPU, No Problem: Flagship LLMs On A GPU-less Teenaged Server

There are lots of reasons to run LLMs locally, from privacy concerns to just wanting to futz about with the technology, but if you want to run the big models, the standard logic is that you need big money for lots and lots of VRAM. [MattMo] is calling that into question with his recent video — embedded below, naturally — in which he gets GLM 5.3 Flash, Qwen 3.8 Flash and Qwen 3.8 27B all running on a 14-year-old server without a single GPU.

The secret, if you can call it that, is that they aren’t running very fast: four tokens per second was about the max. Those four tokens are excreted from the twin Xeon processors of the vintage Dell PowerEdge R720 server, with the models living in its 348 GB of DDR3 system memory. That’s enough even for the largest flagship models, but as you can see by the speed, things are a bit bottlenecked by having only 20 threads available between the two processors. Said processors are also old enough to lack certain instructions that might have helped speed things up. Still, [MattMo] argues in the video that this is more than just a dancing bear: there are workloads where batch-processing at 4tps might make sense, and there are people who already have servers of this class laying around in their homelabs. The intersection of that Venn diagram is probably pretty lonely, but if that’s you — hey! [MattMo] says it’ll work, so give it a shot.

If you had to buy the hardware, well, it’s also quite reasonable on the second-hand market, with [MattMo] estimating about $600 given prevailing prices. He also points out that the newer models may still get some optimization to improve speeds, but don’t expect real-time conversations with Hal 9000.  Still, in terms of local LLMs, it certainly beats the pants off toy models running via Llama on the PSP or the C64.

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Teardown And Repair Of An Insoma Water Timer

Water timers are nifty devices that can water the lawn at set times or keep that vegetable garden from turning into a dustbowl. When [electronupdate] timer refused to output water on any of its three outlets, he did the right thing. Instead of angrily checking the warranty on the sodding thing, he tore it apart to attempt a repair.

As expected, the design of these devices is quite straightforward. Three solenoids control whether an outlet is open or closed. A control board also handles the user controls and display.

There was no obvious sign of damage, and the PCB was potted in a white substance that should have kept out any moisture. A quick check with a battery revealed that the three solenoids also worked just fine, so the cause likely was somewhere on the — potted — PCB.

These solenoids are rated for 6VDC and take about 20 ms to act, but on an oscilloscope capture it was plain to see that the board was only putting out around 2V. This wasn’t enough to drive the solenoid, raising the question of what had gone wrong on the controller board and setting the stage for some fun epoxy potting compound scraping.

A good bit of elbow grease revealed the control ICs, the H-bridges that drive the solenoids, and the rest of the circuitry, including a power boost circuit with a big electrolytic capacitor. The latter had a bit of suspicious liquid near its base, which turned out to be the culprit. Perhaps the most annoying thing here is that this electrolytic capacitor had the temerity to fail after only four months of use, but at least it was an easy enough fix.

If we had been in there, we might have been tempted to avoid many future battery changes. Impractical, but we wonder if anyone ever built a water timer with a water clock?

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