A computer monitor which was formerly an iMac G4 with a hemispherical white base sits on a table. The table and wall are likely white, but pink light is washing the scene making them and the monitor base appear pink. An iPhone sits above a piece of rounded plastic jutting out from the monitor base.

G4 IMac Becomes A Monitor With A MagSafe Secret

The G4 iMac is one of the more popular computers in the restomodding scene given its charm and unparalleled ergonomics. Most modern machines that people squeeze in don’t have a disc drive anymore though, so [EasternBloc Engineering] has fitted a retractable MagSafe charger into the drive bay of the machine.

In this example, the iMac has become simply a monitor, instead of an entire all-in-one computer, and the original 15″ display has been replaced with a lightweight 22″ monitor on a 3D printed VESA mount. The narrow confines of the iMac neck meant [EasternBloc Engineering] had to sever the connectors from the HDMI and power cable before reconnecting them once they were fed through.

The really novel part of this restomod is the engineering of the retractable MagSafe charger mount that pops out of the drive bay. [EasternBloc Engineering] started by looking at repurposing an original disc drive, but quickly turned to a bespoke 3D printed solution. Using a LEGO motor and gears for the drive, the system can stick its tongue out at you in a more modern way. A straight in-and-out mechanism like on an original disc drive would’ve been easier to implement, but we appreciate the extra time for angling the phone that respects the ergonomics of the machine. We hope the files will become available soon for this part of the mod since electromechanical components are more interesting than the VESA mount.

We’ve taken a look at how to implement MagSafe (or Qi2) into your own projects and also a few different G4 iMac restomods whether you prefer Apple Silicon or a PC-based approach.

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A Deep Drive Deep Dive Into A Twin-Rotor Motor

Compromise is key to keeping a team humming along. Say one person wants an inrunner electric motor, and the other prefers outrunner. What to do? Well, if you work at [Deep Drive], the compromise position is a dual-rotor setup that they claim can be up to 20% more efficient than standard designs. In a recent video, [Ziroth] provides a deep dive into Deep Drive’s Twin-Rotor Motor. 

This is specifically a radial flux permanent magnet motor, like most used in electric vehicles today — and don’t let talk of inrunners and outrunners fool you, that’s the size of motor we’re talking about here. This has been done before with axial flux motors, but it’s a new concept for team radial. As the names imply, the difference is the direction the magnetic field is orientated: axial flux motors have all the magnetism oriented along the axis, which leads to the short wide profile that inspired the nickname “pancake motors”. For various reasons, you’re more likely to see those on a PCB than in an electric car.

In a radial flux motor, the flux goes out the radius, so the coils and magnets are aligned around the shaft of the motor.  Usually, the coils are held by an iron armature that directs their magnetic flux inwards (or outwards) at the permanent magnets in the rotor, but not here. By deleting the metal armature from their design and putting magnets on both sides of the stator coil, Deep Drive claims to have built a motor that is lighter and provides more torque, while also being more energy-efficient.

Of course you can’t use magnet wire if your coil is self-supporting, so instead they’re using hefty chunks of copper that could moonlight as busbars. In spite of needing magnets on both inner and outer rotors, the company says they require no more rare-earths than their competitors. We’re not sure if that is true for the copper content, though. To make the torque, those windings are beefy.

Still, its inspiring to see engineers continue to innovate in a space that many would have written off as fully-optimized. We look forward to seeing these motors in upcoming electric cars, but more than that, hope they sell a smaller unit for an air compressor so after going on a Deep Drive deep dive we can inflate our rubber raft with their twin rotor motor boater bloater. If it works as well as advertised, we might have to become twin-rotor motor boater bloater gloaters!

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Illustrated Kristina with an IBM Model M keyboard floating between her hands.

Keebin’ With Kristina: The One With The C64 Keyboard

[Jean] wrote into the tips line (the system works!) to let all of us know about his hacked and hand-wired C64 keyboard, a thing of beauty in its chocolate-brown and 9u space bar-havin’ glory.

A C64 keyboard without the surrounding C64.
Image by [Jean] via GitHub
This Arduino Pro Micro-based brain transplant began as a sketch, and [Jean] reports it now has proper code in QMK. But how is a person supposed to use it in 2025, almost 2026, especially as a programmer or just plain serious computer user?

The big news here is that [Jean] added support for missing characters using the left and right Shift keys, and even added mouse controls and Function keys that are accessed on a layer via the Shift Lock key. You can see the key maps over on GitHub.

I’ll admit, [Jean]’s project has got me eyeing that C64 I picked up for $12 at a thrift store which I doubt still works as intended. But don’t worry, I will test it first.

Fortunately, it looks like [Jean] has thought of everything when it comes to reproducing this hack, including the requisite C64-to-Arduino pinout. So, what are you waiting for?

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Super Simple Deadbuggable Bluetooth Chip

We’re all used to Bluetooth chips coming in QFN and BGA formats, at a minimum of 30-40 pins, sometimes even a hundred. What about ten pins, with 1.27 mm pitch? [deqing] from Hackaday.io shows us a chip from WCH, CH571K, in what’s essentially a SO-10 package (ESSOP10). This chip has a RISC-V core, requires only three components to run, and can work Bluetooth through a simple wire antenna.

This chip is a RISC-V MCU with a Bluetooth peripheral built in, and comes from the CH57x family of WCH chips that resemble the nRF series we’re all used to. You get a fair few peripherals: UART, SPI, and ADC, and of course, Bluetooth 4 with Low Energy support to communicate with a smart device of your choice. For extra hacker cred, [deqing] deadbugs it, gluing all components and a 2.54 mm header for FTDI comms onto the chip, and shows us a demo using webBluetooth to toggle an LED through a button in the browser.

You need not be afraid of SDKs with this one. There’s Arduino IDE support (currently done through a fork of arduino_core_ch32) and a fair few external tools, including at least two programming tools, one official and one third-party. The chip is under a dollar on LCSC, even less if you buy multiple, so it’s worth throwing a few into your shopping cart. What could you do with it once received? Well, you could retrofit your smoke alarms with Bluetooth, create your own tire pressure monitors, or just build a smartphone-connected business card!

PCB Design Review: TinySparrow, A Module For CAN Hacking, V2

A year ago, I’ve design reviewed an MCU module for CAN hacking, called TinySparrow. Modules are plenty cool, and even more so when they’re intended for remaking car ECUs. For a while now, every car has heavily depended on a computer to control the operation of everything inside it – the engine and its infrastructure, the lights, and  Sadly, ECUs are quite non-hackable, so building your own ECUs only makes sense – which is why it’s heartwarming to see modules intended to make this easier on the budding ECU designer!

Last time we saw this module, it was quite a bit simpler. We talked about fixing a number of things – the linear regulator, the unprotected CAN transceiver, and the pinout; we also made the board cheaper to produce by reducing the layer count and instead pushing the clearance/track width limits. This time, we’re seeing TinySparrow v2 , redesigned accounting for the feedback and upgraded with a new MCU – it’s quite a bit more powerful!

For a start, it’s got ESD diodes, a switching-linear regulator chain for clean but efficient power supply, and most importantly, an upgraded MCU, now with USB and one more CAN channel for a total of two! There’s a lot more GPIOs to go around, too, so the PCB now uses all four of its sides for breakout out power, programming, and GPIO pads. Only a tiny bit bigger than its v1, this module packs a fair bit of punch.

Let’s revisit the design, and try to find anything still left to improve – there’s a few noteworthy things I found.

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The EFF Nails It: What’s Wrong With UK Digital ID

It sometimes seems as though we are in a constant tussle over privacy between governments and the governed, with each year bringing fresh attempts to extend surveillance, and consequent battles. For Brits the big news at the moment comes in a new digital ID scheme, something that will be required for anyone wishing to work in the country, as well as for certain government services. It’s something that has attracted a lot of opposition, and now the EFF have produced an analysis  of why they think it won’t work.

From the perspective of a British writer it would be easy to write screeds about the flaws in the scheme, the way it over-reaches, and about the historical distrust of Brits for their government’s bureaucracy. With the parliamentary petition opposing it approaching three million signatures, there’s no shortage of people who don’t support it. Perhaps the most obvious thing for most of us is how unnecessary it is for its stated aim of preventing illegal immigrants from seeking employment, it neglects that we already have to show proof of right to work before being hired, and that if crooked employers ignore that they will surely also ignore the digital ID.

If you’re reading this elsewhere in the world from where this is being written then it’s still of relevance, because governments like to point to other countries to justify these measures. Follow the EFF on this matter, and take note.


Art: British Passport SVG by Swapnil1101, Public Domain

LED Hourglass Is A Great Learning Project

An hourglass tells you what it is in the name — a glass that you use to measure an hour of time passing by. [EDISON SCIENCE CORNER] has built a digital project that mimics such a thing, with little beads of light emulating falling sand in the timekeepers of old.

The build is designed around the Arduino platform, and can be constructed with an Arduino Uno, Nano, or Pro Mini if so desired. The microcontroller board is hooked up with an ADXL335 three-axis accelerometer, which is used for tracking the orientation and movement of the digital hourglass. These movements are used to influence the movement of emulated grains of sand, displayed on a pair of 8×8 LED matrixes driven by a MAX7219 driver IC. Power is courtesy of a 3.7 V lithium-ion cell, with a charge/boost module included for good measure. Everything is wrapped up in a vaguely hourglass-shaped 3D printed enclosure.

The operation is simple. When the hourglass is turned, the simulated grains of sand move as if responding to gravity. The movement is a little janky — no surprise given the limited resolution of the 8×8 displays. You also probably wouldn’t use such a device as a timer when more elegant solutions exist. However, that’s not to say builds like this don’t have a purpose. They’re actually a great way to get to grips with a microcontroller platform, as well as to learn about interfacing external hardware and working with LED matrixes. You can pick up a great deal of basic skills building something like this.

Would you believe this isn’t the first digital hourglass we’ve featured on the site?

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