Mini Blinking Barrels Keep Desktop Traffic In Check

Your desk or bench is a work area, so why not make it look the part? That’s the idea behind the miniature blinking traffic barrels that [Glen Akins] recently put together. Of course, just a single blinking light doesn’t really sell the idea of a busy construction zone, so he spent a somewhat surprising amount of time and effort optimizing the design for small-scale production.

The end result is a fascinating write-up that dives into the design decisions [Glen] made. Every aspect of this project, from the overhang of the “handle” on the 3D printed barrel to the number of passive components on the PCB was carefully considered. Critics may say [Glen] put too much thought into something that didn’t need to be so complex, but projects like these are an excellent way to keep your skills sharp — there’s no such thing as practicing too much.

Starting with the design of the barrel itself, we appreciate that [Glen] kept the capabilities of his desktop 3D printer in mind. By breaking the design up into multiple pieces and avoiding overly steep angles, he produced a design that prints cleanly without the need for support material. His step-by-step documentation and screenshots also serve as a great introduction to designing parts in Fusion if that’s something you’re interested in.

From there, things switch over to the electronics. Some in the audience will bemoan that he’s using a PIC12F1612 microcontroller to blink a single LED instead of a 555, but [Glen] brought the receipts on this one. Not only does the PIC offer more flexibility in terms of getting the blinking to look the way he wants, but it requires fewer passive components on the board and is considerably more energy efficient than the iconic timer IC. Even if you ignore all the other advantages, he calculates that going with a 555 would have cut the battery life of the finished product by approximately 15%.

This is one of those projects that’s difficult to summarize in such a terse format, as every time you think the write-up must be about over it takes a new turn on you. We were mildly bemused when the second iteration of the PCB popped up, but by the time he introduced the custom programming adapter board, we knew [Glen] wasn’t messing around.

Unsurprisingly, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen [Glen]’s handiwork. You may recall seeing his RP2040-powered sound board earlier this year, but his name has been popping up on these pages for more than a decade now.

Historical Hack: Henri Griffard’s Steam Injectors

Here’s a historical hack for you: you have a big, rolling pressurized kettle, also known as a steam locomotive. It needs water to make up for the steam constantly chuff-chuff-chuffing away, or bad things happen. How do you get water from an unpressurized tender into a high pressure boiler with no moving parts? What you need is a some way to inject steam with no moving parts — a steam injector, if you will. [Marc Flint] found that the steam injectors were the hardest part of a loco to understand, so he made a video for all of us once he’d figured it out.

The steam injector isn’t a new idea. [Henri Griffard] came up with it back in the 1850s to replace expensive and maintenance-hungry pumps. It’s rather ingenious and uses the fluid mechanics uncovered by another European bloke by the name of Bernoulli. First, the high-pressure steam from the boiler goes through a converging-diverging nozzle to drop its pressure and speed its flow up, just as you’d guess if you’ve seen Bernoulli’s laws. Even more vacuum-inducing is the presence of water: the steam, already cooled by its expansion, hits the water in the pipe open to the tender, and condenses into it, shrinking a couple of orders of magnitude, creating a vacuum that draws in no small quantity of feed water. That one we did not expect from Bernoulli, but it makes sense. So how to get from below atmospheric pressure to the 180-odd PSI or more in the boiler?

Well, the water is now moving at a good clip, between the Venturi effect and the momentum gained from absorbing that steam, so another converging nozzle is the trick. Bernoulli’s law, once more! A one-way valve lets the now-pressurized water into the boiler, with a gap in between to dump water while the pressure builds up. It’s a clever trick, and since the steam coming from the boiler makes it back inside along with at least some of its heat energy, it’s much more efficient in both coal and water than running a pump. It’s also a bit of a head scratcher how it works unless someone sits you down to explain it, so we’re glad [Marc] did.

Not many of us are likely to use this knowledge directly — unless we’re firing up a 90 year old boiler or building a new steam locomotive — but seeing how great engineers of years past made use of basic physical laws can serve both as education and inspiration.

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Smarting Up A Doorbell With Zigbee

Once upon a time a doorbell was little more than a button, a transformer, and a bell tucked somewhere around the house. These days, they get a little bit fancier. [Philipp Schweizer] has recently been exploring how to turn existing dumb doorbells into smarter ones.

The build is based around a wired doorbell setup, in particular, a Vistadoor ADV-100. [Philipp] was able to find a simple place to tap in to a signal that went to 5 V when the doorbell was rung. He wanted to hook this into his smart home system as easily as possible. Thus, he grabbed a rather unique part—the ESP32-H2. This is notable in the ESP32 family for having no WiFi connectivity. What it does have, however, is an 802.15.4 radio good for Thread and Zigbee communications.

[Phillip] explains that hooking the ESP32-H2 up to fire a notification to Home Assistant every time the doorbell goes off is easy—and it doesn’t mess with the standard doorbell’s chiming behavior one bit. He also explains how to set up neat automations, such as having a separate smart camera capture an image when the door bell is fired.

If you’re looking to integrate an existing doorbell into your Home Assistant setup, this project could be just what you need. We’ve featured some other neat doorbell builds too, like this touchless design from the dark days of the coronavirus pandemic.

Hackaday Europe 2026: The 1-Bit CPU That Ran Factories

Powered machinery started the industrial revolution, and it was automation that kicked it up another notch in the 20th century. The ability for machines to make things by themselves spurred increased output and in turn boosted economic growth. The concept became widely popular for manufacturers to implement, as any change with serious economic benefit tends to do. Fast forward to today, and advanced robots and fancy machine vision systems running on powerful computers are the norm in modern factories which create the many wonderful products that we all purchase, use, and enjoy.

Once upon a time, though, things weren’t so sophisticated. [Nicola Cimmino] came to Hackaday Europe 2026 to tell us all about a remarkably simple 1-bit CPU that used to run factories.

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Simple DIY STM32 Oscilloscope Project

In part one of what is intended to be a series on developing an STM32-based oscilloscope, [BTTLab] demonstrates a how to use the built-in ADC of an STM32F207 MCU to develop a straightforward single-channel oscilloscope. This can be followed along both via the YouTube video and the GitHub repository for this single-channel version.

Oscilloscope front-end protections. You want this. (Credit: BTTLab, YouTube)
Oscilloscope front-end protections. You want this.

Of course, an MCU’s ADC generally won’t hold a candle to a dedicated ADC for oscilloscope purposes – along with the typical beefy FPGA-based processing – with even a basic Rigol DS1054Z hitting a cool 1 GSPS, but the 2 MSPS at 12-bit resolution achieved by an STM32F207 isn’t shabby either. For more basic, low-frequency circuit and protocol debugging it would already be enough.

One thing briefly touched upon in the video is the front-end. The ADC’s inputs are rated for a specific voltage range, typically 0 to 3.3 V when running the MCU off 3.3 V, so you do not want to put higher or negative voltages into said ADC input. This is where measuring something like AC becomes rather tricky and you can get some exciting releases of magic smoke.

The demonstrated single-channel oscilloscope firmware uses the ST HAL, so it might be somewhat easy to target other STM32 MCUs as well, though naturally ADC performance will differ per MCU family and sometimes sub-family, so make sure to read the datasheet and programming manual before you dive in too deep.

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Building Custom Backyard Solar Lights

In this modern age, if you want a truly swish garden that makes your friends sad when they visit, you need good lighting. [technocraftStudio] has been working on just such a project, creating custom wedge lights to illuminate garden beds in style.

You might look at the plastic housings involved and assume that they’re 3D printed, like the vast majority of such projects we cover these days. Instead, the enclosures are crafted out of PVC plastic, harvested by flattening sections of pipe with a heat gun. It has the benefit of being highly weather resistant, and cheap to boot. The lights themselves are small LED panels mounted on aluminium plate as a heatsink, and fitted with an acrylic diffuser to spread the light out more evenly. Power for the lights comes from an 18650 lithium-ion cell, charged by a pair of solar panels hooked up to an MPPT charge controller. A TP223 capacitive touch module is also included in the design to allow the lights to be turned on with just the touch of a finger.

The result is a surprisingly stylish bit of garden furniture which provides warm, even light and, ideally, needs a minimum of maintenance and attention since the sun provides the power. We’ve featured some other great solar lamps before, too, like this lovely Pokemon-themed build. If you’re building your own solar projects at home, or doing weird things with PVC, we’d probably love to hear about it on the tipsline!

Joy-Cons Plus WiiMotes Make For Switch 2 Wii-Cons

As popular as the Nintendo Switch and its sequel are, it’s hard to argue that its click-on Joy-Con controllers are ergonomic, barring you having very uniquely shaped hands. This thought and a stack of Wii controllers led [KOUZEX] to the mad project of merging Joy-Cons and WiiMotes into what can affectionately be called Wii-Cons, or perhaps JoyMotes.

Suffice it to say that it’s not a very clean or easy mod, and you could definitely make the point that a custom PCB and 3D-printed shell would  have been a lot easier. Making space for the Joy-Con’s side rail, thumb stick and PCB without simply tossing the WiiMote’s PCB was a tough ask, and these are two WiiMotes that will never connect to a Wii again.

With the WiiMote-shaped Joy-Cons working pretty well after all that work, the issue of remapping Joy-Con buttons that have no match on WiiMotes was probably the biggest headache. Here having said custom version could be rather helpful to have more control over the button layout, also to not have to keep harvesting the dwindling supply of WiiMotes to make WiiCons. It might even be possible to keep all the WiiMote functionality that way, to really blow people’s minds when you use your fancy Joy-Cons to next play a game on an original Wii.

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