How Industrial Robot Safety Was Written In Blood

It was January 25th of 1979, at an unassuming Michigan Ford Motor Company factory. Productivity over the past years had been skyrocketing due to increased automation, courtesy of Litton Industry’s industrial robots that among other things helped to pick parts from shelves. Unfortunately, on that day there was an issue with the automated inventory system, so Robert Williams was asked to retrieve parts manually.

As he climbed into the third level of the storage rack, he was crushed from behind by the arm of one of the still active one-ton transfer vehicles, killing him instantly. It would take half an hour before his body was discovered, and many years before the manufacturer would be forced to pay damages to his estate in a settlement. He only lived to be twenty-five years old.

Since Robert’s gruesome death, industrial robots have become much safer, with keep-out zones, sensors, and other safety measures. However this didn’t happen overnight; it’s worth going over some of the robot tragedies to see how we got here.

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Solar Supercapacitor Lamp Probably Won’t Get You Saved At Sea

Most solar lights are cheap garbage that exist just to put more microplastics into the environment as they degrade in short order. [Jeremy Cook] built his own solar light, however, and this one might just last a little longer.

Most solar lights rely on the cheapest nickel-cadmium or nickel-metal hydride cells that are available on the market. They don’t tend to have a lot of capacity and they wear out incredibly fast. [Jeremy] went a different route for his build, though, instead relying on a rather tasty supercapacitor to store energy. Unlike a rechargeable battery, that may only last a few thousand cycles, these supercaps are expected to perform over 500,000 charge/discharge cycles without failure. With such longevity, [Jeremy] suggests his build could last a full 1369.8 years, assuming it charged and discharged once a day. Whether the plastic transistor, LEDs, or diode could hold up over such a long period is another question entirely.

Electronically, the build is relatively simple. The solar panel collects light energy and turns it into electricity, charging the supercaps through a diode. The supercaps are only able to discharge through a transistor, which only turns on when the voltage output by the solar panel drops at night time, and the voltage on the base becomes lower than that on the emitter. When current flows through the transistor, it then lights the LED in turn and the device glows in the darkness. As a nice touch, the whole circuit is installed in a glass jug of syrup originally sourced from Costco. Files are on Github for those eager to explore further.

Given the light-in-a-bottle construction, [Jeremy] also playfully imagined that a lamp like this could theoretically be used as a safety device. If lost at sea, you could charge it using the sun and try and use it to signal for help. However, upon casually exploring the concept, he notes that a small solar-powered light will only raise the chance of a far-off ocean rescue from “extremely unlikely” to “still very unlikely.”

You can do all kinds of neat things with free energy from the sun, from mowing your lawn to processing waste products. Video after the break.

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Light Following Robot Does It The Analog Way

If you wanted to build a robot that chased light, you might start thinking about Raspberry Pis, cameras, and off-the-shelf computer vision systems. However, it needn’t be so complex. [Ed] of [Death and the Penguin] demonstrates this ably with a simple robot that finds the light the old-fashioned way.

The build is not dissimilar from many line-following and line chasing robots that graced the pages of electronics magazines 50 years ago or more. The basic circuit relies on a pair of light-dependent resistors (LDR), which are wrapped in cardboard tubes to effectively make their response highly directional. An op-amp is used to compare the resistance of each LDR. It then crudely steers the robot towards the brighter light between turning one motor  hard on or the other, operating in a skid-steer style arrangement.

[Ed] then proceeded to improve the design further with the addition of a 555 timer IC. It’s set up to enable PWM-like control, allowing one motor to run at a lower speed than the other depending on the ratio between the light sensors. This provides much smoother steering than the hard-on, hard-off control of the simpler circuit. [Ed] notes that this is about the point where he would typically reach for a microcontroller if he hoped to add any additional sophistication.

In an era where microcontrollers seem to be the solution to everything, it’s nice to remember that sometimes you can complete a project without using a processor or any code at all. Video after the break.

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Electric Lawnmower Gets RC Controls

Decades ago, shows like Star Trek, The Jetsons, and Lost in Space promised us a future full of helpful computers and robot assistants. Unfortunately, we haven’t quite gotten our general-purpose helper to do all of our tasks with a simple voice command yet. But if some sweat equity is applied, we can get machines to do specific tasks for us under some situations. [Max Maker] built this remote-controlled lawnmower which at least minimizes the physical labor he needs to do to cut his grass.

The first step in the project was to remove the human interface parts of the push mower and start working on a frame for the various control mechanisms. This includes adding an actuator to raise and lower the mower deck on the fly. Driving the new rear wheels are two wheelchair motors, which allow it to use differential steering, with a set of casters up front for maximum maneuverability. An Arduino Mega sits in a custom enclosure to control everything and receive the RC signals, alongside the mower’s batteries and the motor controllers for the drive wheels.

After some issues with programming, [Max] has an effective remote controlled mower that he can use to mulch leaves or cut grass without getting out of his chair. It would also make an excellent platform if he decides to fully automate it in the future, which is a project that has been done fairly effectively in the past even at much larger scales.

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A round, 3D-printed motor housing is shown, with one flattened side holding a fan mount. A circular plate is mounted above the face of the housing, and a cord runs around it and pulleys on the side of the housing.

Tying Up Loose Ends On A Rope-based Robot Actuator

One of the perennial challenges of building robots is minimizing the size and weight of drive systems while preserving power. One established way to do this, at least on robots with joints, is to fit each joint with a quasi-direct-drive motor integrating a brushless motor and gearbox in one device. [The 5439 Workshop] wanted to take this approach with his own robot project, but since commercial drives were beyond his budget, he designed his own powerful, printable actuator.

The motor reducing mechanism was the biggest challenge: most quasi-direct drives use a planetary gearbox, but this would have been difficult to 3D-print without either serious backlash or limited torque. A cycloidal drive was an option, but previous printable cycloidal drives seemed to have low efficiency, and they didn’t want to work with a strain-wave gearing. Instead, he decided to use a rope drive (this seems to be another name for a kind of Capstan drive), which doesn’t require particularly strong materials or high precision. These normally use a rope wound around two side-by-side drums, which are difficult to integrate into a compact actuator, but he solved the issue by putting the drums in-line with the motor, with two pairs of pulleys guiding the rope between them in a “C” shaped path.

The actual motor is a hand-wound stator inside a 3D-printed rotor with magnets epoxied into it. The printed rotor proved problematic when the attraction between the rotor and magnets caused it to flex and scrape against the housing, and it eventually had to be reinforced with some thin metal sheets. After fixing this, it reached five Newton-meters of torque at one amp and nine Newton-meters at five amps. The diminishing returns seem to be because the 3D-printed pulley wheels broke under higher torque, which should be easy to fix in the future.

This looks like a promising design, but if you don’t need the output shaft inline with the motors, it’s probably easier to build a simple Capstan drive, the mathematics of which we’ve covered before. Both makers we’ve previously seen build Capstan drives used them to make robot dogs, which says something for their speed and responsiveness.

Drunken EBay Purchase Becomes Motorized, Speaking Dalek

Not every impulsive purchase on eBay leads to possession of a wooden Dalek, but when a friend did exactly that, [Tony Goacher] did his part to turn ‘Dalek Bob’ into a motorized and remote-controlled unit of impressive stature.

Fitting wheels to shafts and motors to a frame can be a bit tricky when none were made with the other in mind.

The purchased Dalek is made of wood and, with the help of two bolts, is of sufficient size to trap a human inside. There’s a bench of sorts upon which the captive can sit, and with some effort, shuffle the surrounding frame awkwardly about. The scale of the Dalek is impressive, but it was clear the effect of human-powered locomotion was lacking. The solution was to install wheelchair motors, tires, and an ESP32-based remote control.

Quite a lot of work went into mounting the motors and wheels, and the challenges will be familiar to anyone who has done hobby robotics. One can choose ideal motors and wheels, but making them fit one another can be an entirely different story. Shafts and hubs are of different sizes, motor mounting doesn’t quite match the platform, and it’s all a bit like fitting a square peg into a round hole. But with access to the right tools, it’s nothing a little metalwork and welding can’t solve.

For the control system, the ESP32 (with a beautiful CNC-routed custom PCB) sets itself up as a wireless access point that serves a web-based control panel for piloting, and controls two H-bridges to drive the motors. What’s more, it also provides a sound board from which a second operator can trigger appropriate phrases and sounds from the Dalek.

Some folks prefer their remote-controlled Daleks plush and cute instead of large and looming, but we like the smooth movement and imposing stature of this one. Watch it all in action in the video, embedded below.

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2WD robot

Two-Wheeled Arduino Robot Project For Beginners

Here’s a fun build from [RootSaid] that is suitable for people just getting started with microcontrollers and robotics — an Arduino-controlled two-wheeled robot.

The video assumes you already have one of the common robotics kits that includes the chassis, wheels, and motors, something like this. You’ll also need a microcontroller (in this case, an Arduino Nano), a L293D motor driver IC, a 9 V battery, and some jumper wires.

The video goes into detail about how the two wheels connected to one motor each can move the robot in various directions: forward, backward, left, and right. The motors can be made to spin either forward or backward, depending on the polarity of the power supply, using an H-bridge circuit.

The L293D motor driver IC powers and controls the motors connected to the wheels. The L293D takes its commands from the Arduino. The rest of the video is spent going over the software for controlling the wheels.

When you’re ready to go to the next level, you might enjoy this robot dog.

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