Configurable Custom Logic (CCL) Block Diagram.

Getting Started With ATtiny Configurable Custom Logic (CCL)

In the Microchip tinyAVR {0,1,2}-series we see Configurable Custom Logic (CCL) among the Core Independent Peripherals (CIP) available on the chip. In this YouTube video [Grug Huhler] shows us how to make your own digital logic in hardware using the ATtiny CCL peripheral.

If you have spare pins on your tinyAVR micro you can use them with the CCL for “glue logic” and save on your bill of materials (BOM) cost. The CCL can do simple to moderately complex logic, and it does it without the need for support from the processor core, which is why it’s called a core independent peripheral. A good place to learn about the CCL capabilities in these tinyAVR series is Microchip Technical Brief TB3218: Getting Started with Configurable Custom Logic (CCL) or if you need more information see a datasheet, such as the ATtiny3226 datasheet mentioned in the video.

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Full picture of tendon pulling actuator with Arduino elements in the backdrop

Ratcheting Mechanism Gives Tendons A Tug

A common ratchet from your garage may work wonders for tightening hard to reach bolts on whatever everyday projects around the house. However, those over at [Chronova Engineering] had a particularly unusual project where a special ratchet mechanism needed to be developed. And developed it was, an absolutely beautiful machining job is done to create a ratcheting actuator for tendon pulling. Yes, this mechanical steampunk-esk ratchet is meant for yanking on the fleshy strings found in all of us.

The unique mechanism is necessary because of the requirement for bidirectional actuation for bio-mechanics research. Tendons are meant to be pulled and released to measure the movement of the fingers or toes. This is then compared with the distance pulled from the actuator. Hopefully, this method of actuation measurement may help doctors and surgeons treat people with impairments, though in this particular case the “patient” is a chicken’s foot.

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A Neat E-Paper Digit Clock (or Four)

[sprite_tm] had a problem. He needed a clock for the living room, but didn’t want to just buy something off the shelf. In his own words, “It’s an opportunity for a cool project that I’d rather not let go to waste.” Thus started a project to build a fun e-paper digit clock!

There were several goals for the build from the outset. It had to be battery driven, large enough to be easily readable, and readily visible both during the day and in low-light conditions. It also needed to be low maintenance, and “interesting,” as [sprite_tm] put it. This drove the design towards an e-paper solution. However, large e-paper displays can be a bit pricy. That spawned a creative idea—why not grab four smaller displays and make a clock with separate individual digits instead?

The build description covers the full design, from the ESP32 at the heart of things to odd brownout issues and the old-school Nokia batteries providing the juice. Indeed, [sprite_tm] even went the creative route, making each individual digit of the clock operate largely independently. Each has its own battery, microcontroller, and display. To save battery life, only the hours digit has to spend energy syncing with an NTP time server, and it uses the short-range ESPNow protocol to send time updates to the other digits.

It’s an unconventional clock, to be sure; you could even consider it four clocks in one. Ultimately, though, that’s what we like in a timepiece here at Hackaday. Meanwhile, if you’ve come up with a fun and innovative way to tell time, be sure to let us know on the tipsline!

[Thanks to Maarten Tromp for the tip!]

A man is shown on the left of the screen, speaking to the camera. On the right of the screen, a Smith chart is displayed. At the top of the screen, the words "TWO METHODS" are displayed.

A Gentle Introduction To Impedance Matching

Impedance matching is one of the perpetual confusions for new electronics students, and for good reason: the idea that increasing the impedance of a circuit can lead to more power transmission is frighteningly unintuitive at first glance. Even once you understand this, designing a circuit with impedance matching is a tricky task, and it’s here that [Ralph Gable]’s introduction to impedance matching is helpful.

The goal of impedance matching is to maximize the amount of power transmitted from a source to a load. In some simple situations, resistance is the only significant component in impedance, and it’s possible to match impedance just by matching resistance. In most situations, though, capacitance and inductance will add a reactive component to the impedance, in which case it becomes necessary to use the complex conjugate for impedance matching.

The video goes over this theory briefly, but it’s real focus is on explaining how to read a Smith chart, an intimidating-looking tool which can be used to calculate impedances. The video covers the basic impedance-only Smith chart, as well as a full-color Smith chart which indicates both impedance and admittance.

This video is the introduction to a planned series on impedance matching, and beyond reading Smith charts, it doesn’t really get into many specifics. However, based on the clear explanations so far, it could be worth waiting for the rest of the series.

If you’re interested in more practical details, we’ve also covered another example before. Continue reading “A Gentle Introduction To Impedance Matching”

Prusa Mini with endoscope nozzle cam and pip preview

Prusa Mini Nozzle Cam On The Cheap

Let me throw in a curveball—watching your 3D print fail in real-time is so much more satisfying when you have a crisp, up-close view of the nozzle drama. That’s exactly what [Mellow Labs] delivers in his latest DIY video: transforming a generic HD endoscope camera into a purpose-built nozzle cam for the Prusa Mini. The hack blends absurd simplicity with delightful nerdy precision, and comes with a full walkthrough, a printable mount, and just enough bad advice to make it interesting. It’s a must-see for any maker who enjoys solder fumes with their spaghetti monsters.

What makes this build uniquely brilliant is the repurposing of a common USB endoscope camera—a tool normally reserved for inspecting pipes or internal combustion engines. Instead, it’s now spying on molten plastic. The camera gets ripped from its aluminium tomb, upgraded with custom-salvaged LEDs (harvested straight from a dismembered bulb), then wrapped in makeshift heat-shrink and mounted on a custom PETG bracket. [Mellow Labs] even micro-solders in a custom connector just so the camera can be detached post-print. The mount is parametric, thanks to a community contribution.

This is exactly the sort of hacking to love—clever, scrappy, informative, and full of personality. For the tinkerers among us who like their camera mounts hot and their resistor math hotter, this build is a weekend well spent.

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A Yamaha smart speaker, now with external DAC.

Smart Speaker Gets Brain Surgery, Line-Out

Sometimes you find a commercial product that is almost, but not exactly perfect for your needs. Your choices become: hack together a DIY replacement, or hack the commercial product to do what you need. [Daniel] chose door number two when he realized his Yamaha MusicCast smart speaker was perfect for his particular use case, except for its tragic lack of line out. A little surgery and a Digital-to-Analog Converter (DAC) breakout board solved that problem.

You can’t hear it in this image, but the headphones work.

[Daniel] first went diving into the datasheet of the Yamaha amplifier chip inside of the speaker, before realizing it did too much DSP for his taste. He did learn that the chip was getting i2s signals from the speaker’s wifi module. That’s a lucky break, since i2s is an open, well-known protocol. [Daniel] had an Adafruit DAC; he only needed to get the i2s signals from the smart speaker’s board to his breakout. That proved to be an adventure, but we’ll let [Daniel] tell the tale on his blog.

After a quick bit of OpenSCAD and 3D printing, the DAC was firmly mounted in its new home. Now [Daniel] has the exact audio-streaming-solution he wanted: Yamaha’s MusicCast, with line out to his own hi-fi.

[Daniel] and hackaday go way back: we featured his robot lawnmower in 2013. It’s great to see he’s still hacking. If you’d rather see what’s behind door number one, this roll-your-own smart speaker may whet your appetite.

3D Printed Spirograph Makes Art Out Of Walnut

Who else remembers Spirograph? When making elaborate spiral doodles, did you ever wish for a much, much bigger version? [Fortress Fine Woodworks] had that thought, and “slapped a router onto it” to create a gorgeous walnut table.

Hands holding a 3d printed sanding block, shaped to fit the grooves routed in the table which is visible in the background.
This printed sanding block was a nice touch.

The video covers not only 3D printing the giant Spirograph, which is the part most of us can easily relate to, but all the woodworking magic that goes into creating a large hardwood table. Assembling the table out of choice lumber from the “rustic” pile is an obvious money-saving move, but there were a lot of other trips and tricks in this video that we were happy to learn from a pro. The 3D printed sanding block he designed was a particularly nice detail; it’s hard to imagine getting all those grooves smoothed out without it.

Certainly this pattern could have been carved with a CNC machine, but there is a certain old school charm in seeing it done (more or less) by hand with the Spirograph jig. [Fortress Fine Woodworks] would have missed out on quite the workout if he’d been using a CNC machine, too, which may or may not be a plus to this method depending on your perspective. Regardless, the finished product is a work of art and worth checking out in the video below.

Oddly enough, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen someone use a Spirograph to mill things. It’s not the first giant-scale Spirograph we’ve highlighted, either. To our knowledge, it’s the first time someone has combined them with an artful walnut table.

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