Flopped Humane “AI Pin” Gets An Experimental SDK

The Humane AI Pin was ambitious, expensive, and failed to captivate people between its launch and shutdown shortly after. While the units do contain some interesting elements like the embedded projector, it’s all locked down tight, and the cloud services that tie it all together no longer exist. The devices technically still work, they just can’t do much of anything.

The Humane AI Pin had some bold ideas, like an embedded projector. (Image credit: Humane)

Since then, developers like [Adam Gastineau] have been hard at work turning the device into an experimental development platform: PenumbraOS, which provides a means to allow “untrusted” applications to perform privileged operations.

As announced earlier this month on social media, the experimental SDK lets developers treat the pin as a mostly normal Android device, with the addition of a modular, user-facing assistant app called MABL. [Adam] stresses that this is all highly experimental and has a way to go before it is useful in a user-facing sort of way, but there is absolutely a workable architecture.

When the Humane AI Pin launched, it aimed to compete with smartphones but failed to impress much of anyone. As a result, things folded in record time. Humane’s founders took jobs at HP and buyers were left with expensive paperweights due to the highly restrictive design.

Thankfully, a load of reverse engineering has laid the path to getting some new life out of these ambitious devices. The project could sure use help from anyone willing to pitch in, so if that’s up your alley be sure to join the project; you’ll be in good company.

Iron Nitride Permanent Magnets Made With DIY Ball Mill

Creating strong permanent magnets without using so-called rare earth elements is an ongoing topic of research. An interesting contestant here are iron nitride magnets (α”-Fe16N2), which have the potential to create permanents magnets on-par with with neodymium (Nd2Fe14B) magnets. The challenging aspect with Fe-N magnets is their manufacturing, with recently [Ben Krasnow] giving it a shot over at the [Applied Science] YouTube channel following the method in a 2016 scientific paper by [Yanfeng Jiang] et al. in Advanced Engineering Materials.

This approach uses a ball mill (like [Ben]’s planetary version) with ammonium nitrate (NH4NO3) as the nitrogen source along with iron. After many hours of milling a significant part of the material is expected to have taken on the α”-Fe16N2 phase, after which shock compaction is applied to create a bulk magnet. After the ball mill grinding, [Ben] used a kiln at 200°C for a day to fix the desired phase. Instead of shock compaction, casting in epoxy was used as alternative.

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Gas Burner Reuses Printer Nozzle For Metalwork

Even if you don’t cast or forge metal yourself, you’re probably aware that you need to get the material very, very hot to make that happen. While some smiths might still stoke coal fires, that’s a minority taste these days; most, like [mikeandmertle] use gas burners to generate the heat. Tired of expensive burners or finicky DIY options [mikeandmertle] built their own Better Burner out of easily-available parts. 

Everything you need to make this burner comes from the hardware store: threaded iron pipes of various sizes, hoses and adapters– except for one key piece: a 3D printer nozzle. The nozzle is used here as the all-important gas jet that introduces flammable gas into the burner’s mixing chamber. A demo video below shows it running with a 0.3mm nozzle, which looks like it is putting out some serious heat, but [mikeandmertle] found that could go out if the breather was opened too wide (allowing too much air in the mixture). Eventually he settled on a 0.4mm nozzle, at least for the LPG that is common down under. If one was to try this with propane, their mileage would differ.

That’s the great thing about using printer nozzles, though: with a tapped M6 hole on the cap of the gas pipe serving as intake, one can quickly and easily swap jets without worrying about re-boring. Printer nozzles are machined to reasonable accuracy and you can get a variety pack with all available sizes (including ones so small you’re probably better off using resin) very cheaply.

These sorts of use-what-you-have-on-hand hacks seem to be [mikeandmertle]’s specialty– we’ve seen their PVC thumb nut and their very simple mostly-wooden wood lathe here before. 

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A Number Of Microphones… Er, Inductors, Rather

There’s a famous old story about [Charles Steinmetz] fixing a generator for [Henry Ford]. He charged a lot of money for putting a chalk X in the spot that needed repair. When [Ford] asked for an itemization, the bill read $1 for the chalk, and the balance for knowing where to draw the X. With today’s PCB layout tools, it seems easy to put components down on a board. But, as [Kasyan TV] points out in the video below, you still have to know where to put them.

The subject components are inductors, which are particularly picky about placement, especially if you have multiple inductors. After all, inductors affect one another — that’s how transformers work. So there are definite rules about good and bad ways to put a few inductors on a board.

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BhangmeterV2 Answers The Question “Has A Nuke Gone Off?”

You might think that a nuclear explosion is not something you need a detector for, but clearly not everyone agrees. [Bigcrimping] has not only built one, the BhangmeterV2, but he has its output publicly posted at hasanukegoneoff.com, in case you can’t go through your day without checking if someone has nuked Wiltshire.

The Bhangmeter is based on an off-the-shelf “nuclear event detector”, the HSN-1000L by Power Device Corporation.

The HSN 1000 Nuclear Event Detector at the heart of the build. We didn’t know this thing existed, never mind that it was still available.

Interfacing to the HSN-1000L is very easy: you give it power, and it gives you a pin that stays HIGH unless it detects the characteristic gamma ray pulse of a nuclear event. The gamma ray pulse occurs at the beginning of a “nuclear event” precedes the EMP by some microseconds, and the blast wave by perhaps many seconds, so the HSN-1000 series seems be aimed at triggering an automatic shutdown that might help preserve electronics in the event of a nuclear exchange.

[Bigcrimping] has wired the HSN-1000L to a Raspberry Pi Pico 2 W to create the BhangmeterV2. In the event of a nuclear explosion, it will log the time the nuclear event detector’s pin goes low, and the JSON log is pushed to the cloud, hopefully to a remote server that won’t be vaporized or bricked-by-EMP along with the BhangmeterV2. Since it is only detecting the gamma ray pulse, the BhangmeterV2 is only sensitive to nuclear events within line-of-sight, which is really not where you want to be relative to a nuclear event. Perhaps V3 will include other detection methods– maybe even a 3D-printed neutrino detector?

If you survive the blast this project is designed to detect, you might need a radiation detector to deal with the fallout. For identifying exactly what radionuclide contamination is present, you might want a gamma-ray spectrometer.

It’s a sad comment on the modern world that this hack feels both cold-war vintage and relevant again today. Thanks to [Tom] for the tip; if you have any projects you want to share, we’d love to hear from you whether they’d help us survive nuclear war or not.

Split Keyboard Uses No PCB

When [daniely101] wanted a split keyboard, he decided to build his own. It wound up costing $25 to create a wireless board with no custom PCB required. Each half has its own microcontroller, and the whole thing connects via Bluetooth. While we don’t mind making a PCB, we can appreciate that you could change your mind easily with this wiring scheme.

The 3D printed case holds the keys, and then it is just a matter of carefully soldering the keys to the microcontrollers. Of course, each side also has to have its own battery. The ZMK firmware is split in half, one part for each side of the keyboard. The nRF52840 CPUs have plenty of wireless connectivity. The keys are set in rows and columns, so the amount of soldering back to the controller is manageable.

While we applaud the wireless design, it does seem odd that you have to charge both halves and turn them on and off separately. But that’s the nice thing about a design like this — you could modify the design to not have a split. Or, you could allow one flexible wire pair to run across for power. Of course, you could modify the layout, including adding or deleting keys.

You might consider adding a pointing device. At least you don’t have to pull out a saw.

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